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t. 




FIXING THE'CROW'5 KE5T ' 



VOYAGE 



OF THE 



PRINCE ALBERT 



IN SEARCH OF 



SIR JOHN FRANKLIN: 



OP 

EVERT-MT LIFE IN THE ARCTIC SEAS. 



BY W. PAEKER SNOW. 



LONDON: 
LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, AND LONGMANS. 

185L 







>*^^cq^.55^^,. 2*0.17 



•~j 



ITaiv-d (:.;":y- Lr^rciry, 

Riant C-ii- ■ li-n. 

(Viit of 

A. c. (:• JOi ii>c;e, 

Jan. iiV; l'-^-'-. 



And I have loved thee. Ocean I and my joy 
Of youthful sports was on thy breast to be 
Borne, like thy bubbles, onward : from a boy 
I wanton'd with thy breakers— they to me 
Were a delight ; and if the freshening sea 
Made them a terror— 'twas a pleasing fear, 
For I was as it were a child of thee. 
And trusted to thy billows far and near, 
And laid my hand upon thy mane— as I do here." 

CHaoB Harold, canto iv. ver. 184. 



London : 

Spottiswoodes and Shaw, 
New.street- Square. 



TO 



LADY FRANKLIN, 

AND THE 

SUBSCRIBERS TO THE PRINCE REGENT'S INLET 

BRANCH EXPEDITION 

IN SEABCH OF 

SIR JOHN FRANKLIN 

AKD THE CBEWS OF H.M. DISCOVERT SHIPS, 
ESEBUS AND TERROR; 

atljis Mum 

IS, 
MOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED 

BY THEIR HUMBLE SERVANT, 
W. P. SNOW. 



PREFACE. 



At the request of several kind friends, who were 
of opinion that my private Journal would not be 
wholly uninteresting, from its giving a detailed ac- 
count of the "Prince Albert's" remarkable cruise in 
the Arctic Seas, I have ventured, though with great 
timidity and hesitation, to send it forth upon the wide 
waters of public opinion. What to say about it I 
really know not. Rough and ready, there it is just 
as I wrote it, sometimes after a day's toil, and some- 
times after many days' cessation from it, when the 
mind, *vrearied and distressed about other things, re- 
sorted to the pen for relief. No elegance of language 
nor polished style must be expected. I have merely 
given expression to a series of facts and feelings, 
and perhaps have troubled the reader with too many 
of them. If so, T must plead in excuse that my 
heart was, is, and always will be most deeply 
interested in the cause which led to our voyage. 

A 3 



VI PREFACE. 

With reference to myself, I may be permitted to 
observe, that I came over from America (where I 
was residing) at three days' notice, especially to join 
in any expedition going out under Lady Franklin's 
auspices to the Arctic Seas, in search of her gallant 
husband, having volunteered my humble services for 
that purpose. Too late, by a few days only, for Cap- 
tain Penny's vessels, in which I had a hope held out 
to me of an appointment, I was attached by Lady 
Franklin to the " Prince Albert," which she had then 
recently bought. I joined that vessel more in a civil 
than in an executive capacity ; but with the express 
understanding that most of my active duties were to 
commence upon our arrival in Prince Regent's Inlet, 
where I was to take charge of one of the exploring 
parties to Boothia and elsewhere. To Boothia I had 
long turned my attention in connection with the miss- 
ing expedition, and had submitted to Lady Franklin 
a plan of search through North America which has 
since appeared in the Arctic Returns for 185CI 

In reading the foUowing pages, it must not be 
forgotten, that this is merely my own private Journal, 
— a record of my own doings : although it will be 
seen, that in my own labours may be also traced 
those of other individuals. I have deemed it a 
duty to mention faithfully facts as they occurred, 
to give praise wherever I conceived that it was due. 



PBEPACE. VU 

and to make known the names of any of the men 
who could be favourably spoken of. 

In a letter which I have received from Captain 
Forsyth in reply to an intimation that I was about tc 
publish my private Journal, he concludes as follows :— • 

" To your own personal exertions in assisting me 
in the arduous duties which devolved upon me, and 
the zeal and alacrity shown by you on all occasions, 
I shall be most happy to bear testimony. 

" I am, dear Sir, 

** Your most obedient, 
(Signed) " Charles C. Forsyth, 

Commander R. N." 

I have thought it just to myself to give this quota- 
tion, and at the same time to state that I am much 
indebted to Captain Forsyth for the friendliness and 
gentlemanly courtesy which he displayed towards me 
throughout the voyage. 

I have also to express my heartfelt thanks to 
that noble lady who, in sending out the vessel herself, 
allowed me to be a sharer in the Expedition by at- 
taching me as an oflScer to it, — an honour of 
which I shall, indeed, ever remain proud. To her- 
self, and to her niece. Miss Sophia Cracroft, who 
was devotedly attached to the cause, — ever aid- 
ing by her sound advice, — I am deeply indebted 

A 4 



VUl PBEFACE* 

for their constant and generous friendship to one 
so humble and unknown as myself; nor must I 
forget several of those whose names appear on the 
subscription list in aid of the Expedition* Not 
a few honoured me with their kind notice in an 
especial manner, and I never forgot it when striv- 
ing, in the regions whither we were bound, to make 
myself worthy of their favour. Others too from 
many quarters most generously came forward to 
render me every personal assistance for the voyage. 
To one gentleman especially, whose name, were I 
permitted to mention it, would give great 6clat to my 
humble labours, I am under more than ordinary 
obligations, and I shall never cease to bear his 
kindness in remembrance. 

My present excellent publishers, too, kindly added 
to my intellectual enjoyments during the voyage by 
a timely present of some useful books* ; and many 
more with heart and with hand gathered round to 
render whatever service was in their power. 

Since my return, too, several kind and noble 
friends, themselves remarkable for theh: gallant ser- 
vices, have given me countenance* Commendation 

* Amongst others, I ought not to omit to mention the last 
edition of " Reece's Medical Guide," a work which I found 
invaluable, not only to myself, but to all on board, especially 
where we had no regular surgeon. 



^ 



PBEFACE. IX 

is acceptable from all parties^ but it brings with it a 
double zest when it comes from the truly noble and 
good. 

There is one more name^ however, that I must 
be excused for mentioning, in consideration, not only 
of his own kindness to me personally, but of his 
untiring zeal and generous exertions in behalf of the 
missing Expedition. Following in the footsteps of 
his father. Sir John Barrow, — a name familiar as a 
household word in all that relates to Arctic explora- 
tion, — Mr. Barrow devotes a great deal of his own 
extensive knowledge to the subject, and, in our case, 
afforded much valuable assistance by his advice and 
instruction. To him I am much beholden for many 
important hints and useful papers, and especially so 
for the liberal supply of books which he sent on board 
the « Prince Albert." 

Without further preface, I now venture to submit 
to the public my humble outpourings during the 
short, but not, I trust, uninteresting voyage of the 
** Prince Albert" in the frozen regions of the north 
in search of our brave and long-absent countrymen ; 
and, in conclusion, I may express the hope that the 
illustrations, taken from some rough sketches made on 
the spot, will prove not unacceptable to my readers, 

W. P, S. 
London, Dec. 12. 1850. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. Page 

Introduction. — Public Sympathy for Sir John Franklin. 

— Measures adopted for his Relief. — Auxiliary Expe- 
dition to Regent's Inlet. — The " Prince Albert. — 
Nature and Object of her Voyage - - - 1 

CHAPTER n. 

Engaging the Crew. — Pay-day for Advance Wages. — > 
Doctor. — Description of the " Prince Albert." — Fit- 
ting-out - - - - - - 15 

CHAPTER in. 

Ready for Sea. — Lively Excitement. — An " Arctic Leap." 

— Farewell to Home. — Arrival at the Orkneys. — 
Departure for the open Sea - - - - 27 

CHAPTER IV. 

Fairly at Sea. — Good Qualities of the Vessel. — A nautical 
Post-office. — Shore Sickness. — Colder Weather. — 
Value of old Newspaper Scraps. — Routine of Daily 

Life 36 

CHAPTER V. 

Succession of foul Winds and heavy Gales. — Hove to. — 
The first Iceberg. — Rounding Cape Farewell. — Drift- 
wood. — Magnificent Mountain Scenery - - 49 

CHAPTER VI. 

Taking the first Ice. — Heavy Gales and Snowstorms. — 
Dangerous Position. — Disco. — Curious Appearance of 
the Land. — The solitary Grave. — Mosquitoes. — Nu- 
merous Icebergs. — An Arctic Midnight - - 62 

CHAPTER Vn. 

Thick Fog. — Gutta Percha Boat. — Wateringfrom an 
Iceberg. — The '^Truelove." — Midnight Visits. — 
State of the Ice. — Upemavick and the Woman Islands. 

— Solitude. — Turning of an Iceberg. — Esquimaux. 

— Despatches for England - - - - 76 



XU CONTENTS. 



Page 



CHAPTER Vm. 

The Crow's Nest. — Ice Gear. — Entrance to the great 
Body of Ice. — " Towing " and " Tracking." —boat 
Son^s. — Aspect of the Ice. — A Schooner seen. — 
Closing upon the Ice. — " Devil's Thumb." — Beset.— 
Efforts to get released. — Succeed in working through 
a Passage. — Close Shave with a Berg - - 96 

CHAPTER IX. 

Labyrinth of Icebergs. — Fall in with Sir John Ross. — 
Make fast to a " Floe."— The " Felix." —Movements 
of the Bergs. — Melville's Bay, or the " Devil's Nip." 

— Sharp Frost. — Fog. — Scoresby's Description of the 
Polar Ice - - - - - - 110 

CHAPTER X. 

Ice opens. — Swl made. — Seven Vessels in Sight. — 

— Whalers returning, unable to get through the Bay. 
— Information obtained. — Bad Season in Melville 
Bay. — Captain Austin's Ship £a&t in the Ice. — 
Whalers going South to the West Land for Fish. — 
Parting Cheers. — Heavy Work getting through narrow 
Passages. — Tracking Songs. — Glare of the Light at 
Midnight - - - - - - 122 

CHAPTER XL 

Slow Progress through the Ice. —A warm Day. — Cap- 
tain Austin's Vessels seen. — Number of Seals. — Few 
Birds. — Beset. — The Esquimaux " Adam." — Effects 
of Refraction. — Ominous Preparations. — ^The "Felix" 
dr<^ueezed between two Floes. — Lucky Escape. — In- 
dications of a Gale. — Ice closing in fast. — Unpleasant 
Position -----. 135 

CHAPTER Xn. 

Better Weather. — Still beset. — Attempt to reach Cap- 
tain Austin's Ships by a Walk across the Ice. — Thick 
Fog. — Ice opens, — Move Ship. — Large Bergs. — 
The American Discovery Ships seen. — Dangerous 
Position. — Close beset. — Heavjr Pressure. — Ice in 
fearful Motion around us. ^— Making ready for taking to 
the Ice. — Providential Escape. — Get released from 
our Position, and move through narrow and intricate 
Passages to clearer Water. — Weather very warm in 
the Sun. -^ Under Sail ag^n.-^Make fast at Mid- 
night ,.••.•-- 143 



• •• 



CONTENTS. Xin 

CHAPTER Xin. ^*** 

Superior sailing Qualities of the ** Prince Albert."— 
Stopped by an. enormous Berg. — Vast Number of 
Birds. — Seals. — Sailors skylarking on the Ice. — 
Force through a Crack in the Ice to open Water. •— 
Pass close to Captain Austin*s Fleet. — Heave to in a 
Fog. — Clearer Weather. — The Government Ships, in 
tow of the Steamers, pass us. — Communicate with 
them. — Gret fixed among large " Sconce " Pieces. — 
Under a press of Sail bear down upon and break a 
Neck of Ice ------ 159 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Laborious Efforts to work through some heavy Ice. — 
Succeed in getting clear. — Come up with Captain 
Austin*s Ships and get a Tow. — Numerous Bergs and 
Quantities of floating Pieces. — All the Vessels stopped 
by a Barrier of Ice, — Gallant Behaviour of the Steamers 
in attempting to break the Barrier. — Blasting the Ice. 

— Remove uie Barrier and proceed. — Clearer Water. 

— Beautiful Scene. — Midmght Sun, the Arctic Fleet, 

and Cape Melville - - - - - IT? 

CHAPTER XV. 

Cape Yoric — Visit the Shore. — Commumcatfon with 
the Natives. — Caloosk — An Esquimaux Postman. — 
AladoonglL — Desire to civilise one of the Native Boys. 

— Thoughts on the Subject. — Amusements on the 
Ice. — Sledffes. — Meeting between " Adam *' and the 
Cape Tork Natives. — Information obtained. — Return 
totheSlups - - - • - 189 

CHAPTER XVI. 

The Esquimaux " Adam.** — A strange Story. — Excite- 
ment occasioned by it. — Communicate with Captain 
Omnuumey. — Examine into the Tale told us. — JPro- 
ceed in the Steamer to Captain Austin. — Consultation 
concerning the Report. — Determination to inquire 
more into it. — Sir John Ross*s Opinion of its Truth. — 
Captain Ommanney proceeds in search of Mr. Penny - 204 



XIV CONTENTS, 



Page 



CHAPTER XVIL 

Return towards Cape York. — The " Pioneer." — Sir 
John Ross and his "Crimson Cliffs." — Beautiful Day. 
— Novel Appearance presented by the Steamers moving 
about in the Ice. — Uaptain Ommanney, having again 
communicated with the iN'atives, rejoins Captain Austin. 
— Information gleaned relating to the " North Star." — 
Captain Penny. — His Interpreter, Mr. Petersen. — 
" Adam^s " Statement disproved. — Caloosk again. — 
Return to the other Ships, and proceed, as before, to 
the Northward - - - - -217 

CHAPTER XVni. 

The " Assistance," " Intrepid," and " FelLx," proceed to 
Wolstenholme Sound. — The "Prince Albert" taken 
in tow by the " Resolute." — Clear Water. — Plans 
for future Exploration. — Part Company with the 
** Resolute." — Enter Lancaster Sound. — Make the 
Land about Cape Liverpool. — Fog. — Dangerous Sail- 
ing on account of numerous Bergs. — Byam Martin 
Mountains. — Strong Breeze. — Pass Cape Hay. — 
Navy Board Inlet« — Examine Wollaston Island. — 
No Information. — Blowing hard. — Ship hove to. — 
Darkness at Midnight ... - 231 

CHAPTER XIX. 

Lancaster Sound. — No Field Ice. — A rapid Run. — 
Looking out for the Land. — Leopold Island. — Haul 
in for Port Leopold. — The Harbour blocked by heavy 
** drift Ice." — A Landing effected with great Diffi- 
culty. — Whaler Point. — Burford's Panorama. — The 
" North Star." —No Traces of Sir John Franklin. — 
Sir James Ross's " House." — Steam Launch and Pro- 
visions for the missing Expedition. — Heavy Task in 
returning through the Ice. — H. M. S. " Assistance." — 
Proceed up Prince Regent's Inlet. — Ice blocking up 
the various Harbours. — Idea of proceeding by Boat to 
Lord Mayor's Bay - - - - - 245 

CHAPTER XX. 

Pass Batty Bay. — Off Fury Beach. — Stopped by heavy 
Ice. — Compelled to turn back. — Retrograde Move- 
ment. — Night Search in the Gutta Percha Boat along 
the Coast. — Port Leopold again. — Heavy Barrier of 
Ice. — Means employed to carry and drag the Boat 
across it . - - - - - - 257 



CONTENTS. XV 

CHAPTER XXL Page 

Again at Whaler Point. — Variety of Provisions left there. 

— Primitive Breakfast. — Honest Brigands. — "Refuge 
Camp." — Thick Fog. — Rough Sleeping Couches. — 
The " Prince Albert " not in sight. — Ice closing in 
upon the Harbour. — No Egress from it. — Possibility 
of wintering there. — Ideas suggested by it. — ** Punch. 

— Clearer Weather. — Mr. Matthias Grave. — The 
" Prince Albert " comes in sight. — The Ice slackens. — 
-Gret the Boat* through and arrive on Board - - 272 

CHAPTER XXn 

Plan of future Proceedings for the Vessel. — Observe a 
brigantine entering the Inlet. — The American discovery 
ship" Advance." — Pay her a Visit. — Noble Generosity 
of Henry Grinnell, Esq , of New York. — Lieut. De 
Haven, Commander of the Expedition. — Dr. Kane. — 
Brief Account of their Voyage. — Their bold and daring 
Character evinced, while passing through heavy Ice. — 
Size, Strength, and Equipment of the " Advance." — 
The " Prince Albert " fainy tested, and proved equal to 
the Trial - - - - - - 289 

CHAPTER XXIIL 

Appearance of the Ice. — Barrow's Straits. — Cape Hurd. . 

— Outsail the American. — Wellington Channel. — 
H. M. Ships " Assistance " and " Intrepid." — Penny's 
two Vessels. — The American Brig " Rescue." — Cape 
Spencer. — New Land observed. — Position of the 
Discovery Ships when last seen. — State of the Ice. — 
Stopped by heavy Floes. — Beechey Island. — The 
"Advance.' — Flag-stafiT on Cape Riley. — Examine 
the Point. — Important Notice left there by Captain 
Ommanney. — Search made. — Traces of an Encamp- 
ment found. — Return on Board. — Bear up for P. R. 
Inlet • - - - - - 305 

CHAPTER XXrV. 

Entrance of P. R. Inlet again. — Thick foggy Weather. — 
Heavy Fall of Snow. — Little Wind. — Land to ex- 
amine a Cairn on the Summit of a Hill. — Nothing 
found. — Return on Board. — Cape York. — Currents. 
— The " Prince Albert " drifting in-shore. — Dangerous 
Position. — A heavy Gale. — Dane Night. — Clearer Day. 

— Land seen on both Sides of Lancaster Sound. — 
Enter Admiralty Inlet — Cape Lady Jane. — Remark- 
ably Clear Season - - - - - 322 



XVI CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XXV. Page 

Pass Cape Liverpool. — Off Possession Bav. — Land there. 

— Cabn. — Fall in with the " North Star." — Getting 
Stores from the Hold. — Fresh Breeze and a Fog - 338 

CHAPTER XXVL 

Information from the "North Star." — Very thick 
Weather. — Close in with the Land. — Fertile Valley. 

— Esquimaux Huts. — Pond*s Bay. — Night- time. — 
Very dark and gloomy. — Proceed in the Boat to 
examine four prominent Points of Land. — Midnight 
again. — Rockets and Blue Lights. — Esquimaux En- 
campment. — No other Traces found. — Erect a Cairn 

and leave a Notice. — Return to the Ship - - 349 

CHAPTER XXVIL 

Homeward bound. — Extraordinary Clearance of Ice. — 
Steady fair Breezes. — Rapid and most remarkable 
Run from Wellington Channel. — Last of the Icebergs. 

— Send the Crow's Nest down, and put away the 
"Ice- Gear." — Cape Farewell once more. — Usual 
Greenland Gale. — Splendid Breezes again. — See a 
Smack and two other Vessels. — Near the Faroe Islands. 

— Another fiirioits Gale - - - - 3^0 

CHAPTER XXVm. 

Difficulty of taking a lunar Observation in a Gale. — 
Sight Rona and Barry Islands. — Blowing very hard. 
-—High Sea. ^- Make Cape Wrath Light. — Danger of 
the " Nun Rock" — Heave-to for the Night. — N ext 
Morning run through the Pentland Frith. — Lovely 
Day and refreshing Scenery. — Changeable Weather. 

— Moray Firth. — Another hard Blow. — A Lee Shore. 

— Admirable Qualities of the "Prince Albert." — • 
Arrival at Aberdeen - - - - 371 

Appendix - - - - - -387 



LIST OF PLATES. 

The " Prince Albert" surrounded by Icebergs - Frontispiece. 
Fixing the Crow's Nest - - - Title-page. 

Dangerous Position of the " Prince Albert" - To face p. 147. 
The Arctic Dbcovery Ships : Midnight - To face p. 186. 



VOYAGE 



OP 



THE PRINCE ALBERT. 



CHAPTEE I. 

INTRODUCTION. — PUBLIC SYMPATHY FOR SIR JOHN FRANK- 
LIN. MEASURES ADOPTED FOR HIS RELIEF. AUXILIARY 

EXPEDITION TO REGENT's INLET. THE " PRINCE 

ALBERT." — NATURE AND OBJECT OF HER VOYAGE. 

If Arctic affairs Intensely occupy the public mind 
at this moment, it is not so much in connection with 
scientific research and increase of knowledge, as with 
the feelings and dictates of humanity. Attention ta 
the former Is all but obliterated In the absorbing 
interest called forth by the latter ; and, to the honour 
of human nature. It must be said that this Intense in- 
terest and sympathy have been proved to exist among 
all classes, and all kinds of persons. During the past 
year especially, thousands have been heard, as with 

B 



2 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

one voice, urging for relief to be sent to some of 
their suffering brethren, supposed to be imprisoned 
in wild and unknown regions around the Northern 
Pole. "With a like generous and noble impulse, 
hundreds rushed forward, ready to forsake their own 
loved homes, their domestic comforts, and their 
usual safe pursuits, eager to join the gallant few 
chosen to search those desolate and ice-clad seas, in 
the noble expeditions fitted out by government for 
that purpose. 

But before I enter into any minor details of the 
voyage, it will be necessary to explain whence 
this more than usual expression of generous sympathy 
and noble disinterestedness has proceeded. 

In the beginning of the year 1845, it was deter- 
mined by the government of England, at the sug- 
gestion of Sir John Barrow, the great promoter of 
all arctic discovery, to make another attepupt at 
discovering " an entry from the eastern side of 
America into the Polar Sea," and thence to proceed, 
through the straits which divide Asia from the New 
World, into the Pacific Ocean. 

Captain Sir John Franklin, a naval officer pre- 
viously well known to the world for his adventurous 
and daring spirit, evinced in two land journeys to 
the Arctic Seas, was appointed to the command of 
another expedition, consisting of two ships, " The 



INTRODUCTION. 3 

Erebus" and ** Terror." Both of these ships had 
already been engaged on similar servicse in the 
Antarctic Ocean; and, one of them, the Terror, 
had also made a fearful voyage under the command 
of Captain Back to the northern parts of Hudson's 
Bay, with a view to further discoveries in that 
quarter in connection with a north-west passage. 
On the 19th of May, 1845, both ships sailed from 
England. 

The instructions which Sir John Franklin re- 
ceived were, *^ to proceed to Baffin Bay, and, as 
soon as the ice permitted, to enter Lancaster Sound, 
and proceed westward through Barrow Strait, in the 
latitude of about 74 i°, until they reached the longi- 
tude of Cape Walker, or about 98° west. They 
were then to use every effort to penetrate southward 
and westward towards Behring Strait ; and it was in 
this part that their greatest difficulties were appre- 
hended. If these were proved to be insurmountable, 
they were next directed to return to Barrow Strait, 
and proceed northwards by the broad channel be- 
tween North Devon and Cornwallis' Island, com- 
monly called Wellington Channel, provided it 
appeared open and clear of ice." In pursuance of 
these instructions it appears that both vessels made 
their way together as far as latitude 74° 48', longi- 
tude Q&^ 13^ W. (a position approaching the middle 

B 2 



4 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBEET. 

of Baffin Bay, and about 210 miles from the 
entrance of Lancaster Sound). It was here that 
they were seen, moored to an Iceberg, on the 26th of 
July, sixty-eight days after their departure from 
England. 

It was not until the beginning of 1848 that any- 
thing like anxiety for their fate began to be felt by 
those most interested in their welfare at home. It 
was well known that the gallant leader of the expedi- 
tion had himself intimated that possibly three years 
might elapse before they could return, and that they 
might be themselves the first bearers of intelligence 
concerning them. Nor were the fears of that 
estimable lady. Lady Franklin, aroused to any alarm- 
ing extent prior to that period. Then, however. It 
was deemed necessary that some steps should be at 
once taken towards ascertaining what had become 
of Sir John Franklin and his missing companions ; 
and, accordingly, " researches in three difierent 
quarters, and by three separate expeditions, were 
appointed to be undertaken by the government." 
Lady Franklin, also, with the true devotedness of a 
wife, offered in that year, from her private means, a 
reward of 2000/., afterwards increased to 3000Z., 
" or a proportion thereof, according to services 
rendered, to any ship or ships, which, departing from 
the usual fishing grounds, might discover, and, if 



INTRODUCTION. 5 

needed, afford effectual relief to the missing expe- 
dition, or any portion of It.'' 

In the spring of 1848, government despatched two 
vessels, the " Enterprize" and " Investigator," under 
the command of that Indefatigable arctic voyaget 
Sir James Clark Koss, to discover. If possible, some 
traces of the lost ones. The result, however, proved 
a failure as to anything but negative information 
being gained. 

It was, however, deemed possible, and indeed very 
probable, that, though the land of North Somerset 
had presented no traces of Sir John Franklin or any 
of his party, the land of Boothia^ to the southward 
of, and connected by a neck of land with it, 
might do so. The arguments brought forward in 
support of this view of the question were not only 
sound in themselves, but derived additional strength 
from the opinions given in its favour by eminent 
arctic voyagers, as well as from Sir John Franklin's 
own words, expressed* some years back, concerning 

* See Geographical Journal, vol. vi. p. 43. Sir John 
Kichardson, also, in giving a report in 1847 concerning the 
best mode of sending relief to the missing expedition, observes, 
that it was part of Sir John Franklin's plan, should he fail in 
being able to get on in other quarters, " to descend Regent's 
Inlet, and seek the passage along the coast discovered by Messrs. 
Dease and Simpson."— Vide Arctic Returns, 1848, p. 24. 

B 3 



6 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

the best and most likely mode of examining the 
northern coasts of America. 

As the following chapters treat especially of an 
expedition intended to make a search in that quarter 
onlyy it may not be amiss to give, at the outset, some 
account of the precise nature of the objects it had in 
view. 

The object of the expedition was the thorough 
search of the west coast of Regent Inlet to the bottom 
of the Gulf of Boothia, together with the western 
side of Boothia into James Ross Strait, and down 
to Simpson's Strait. The latter of these formed the 
passage into Regent's Inlet, which is laid down in 
the charts given to Sir John Franklin : the existence 
of interposing land being unknown until the return 
of Mr. Rae in 1847. Simpson's Strait would, there- 
fore, appear to Sir John Franklin to offer a passage 
for his boats into Regent's Inlet ; and it is believed 
by many that, if compelled to abandon his ships 
anywhere in the region S. W. of Cape Walker (to 
which he would proceed in the first instance), he 
might make for Regent's Inlet and the stores on 
Fury Beach. No one who carefully reads the argu- 
ments in favour of this expedition, when it was 
brought before the public eye with the view of ob- 
taining assistance for its funds, can doubt its ex- 
pediency or even its necessity. 



OBJECTS OF THE EXPEDITION. 7 

It was, therefore, determined by Lady Franklin 
to have a search of the land of Boothia simulta- 
neously made with the other explorations, and she 
accordingly purchased the ** Prince Albert " from 
Messrs. White and Co., of Cowes, and sent her to 
Aberdeen for the requisite fittings and strength- 
ening to be put upon her for the service she was to 
be employed in. Mr. Wm. Hogarth, of Aberdeen, 
kindly superintended, as he had done Captain 
Penny's vessels, this part of the business, and indeed 
all that related to preparing the vessel for sea. 
Placing her at once in the hands of Mr. Duthie, 
the shipwright, she was speedily doubled and for- 
tified for an arctic voyage, according to the same 
plan as Captain Penny's. Two splendid boats, the 
one a gutta percha, presented by the Messrs. Searle 
of Lambeth, and the other a noble mahogany, given 
by Messrs. White, were attached to her, besides a 
Halkett's Mackintosh Boat and a smaller kind of 
boat called a " dingey," sledges, and kites. The 
Board of Ordnance had the kindness to lend a 
howitzer and muskets, and to supply rockets, fire- 
balls, &c., and no expense was spared in furnishing 
her with everything else considered necessary for the 
particular service she was to be engaged upon. 
Provisions of excellent quality and full quantity 
were placed on board amply sufficient for two years. 

B 4 



8 VOYAGE OF THE PBINCE ALBERT. 

The especial service assigned to the "Prince 
Albert " was that of conveying a boat expedition to 
the best starting point for accomplishing the intended 
search of the land of Boothia and its vicinity ; but 
she was also supplied with the necessary housing, 
(the same as in all the other ships^) in order to make 
her a suitable and sufficient shelter during the depth 
of winter, when neither walking parties nor boats 
could be despatched.* 

She was, as I have said, fortified in the same 
manner, and to the same extent, as the vessels of 
Captain Penny, which were equipped under his own 
eye. But the fact of the ** Prince Albert" being 
intended, in the first place, simply as a means of 
transport to Prince Regent's Inlet; and, secondly, 
as a depot for the boat and travelling parties to 
fall back upon, must not be lost sight of by the 
reader. 

Captain Forsyth, who had volunteered to command 
the " Prince Albert," had also the advantage of pos- 
sessing the written suggestions of Sir E. Parry, Sir 
James Boss, Captain Beechey, Mr. Barrow, and 
Captain R. H. King. The wintering places suggested 
were various: Brentford Bay, Batty Bay, Port 
Bowen, and even Port Leopold, were severally pro- 

* Port Leopold, too, with its stores and steam launch, was 
deemed likely to be an excellent refuge in case of extremity. 



COST OP EQUIPMENT. 9 

posed as fit places for putting the shijJ into, and thus 
forming the starting point. It was decidedly recom- 
mended that she should not proceed farther south 
than Brentford Bay; below which, the ice in Re- 
gent's Inlet is usually heavily packed. 

And whilst some of the advisers thought a direct 
course to Simpson's Strait, along either the east or 
west coast of Boothia, the first and chief object ; 
others considered it preferable to search, in the 
first instance, the east as well as the west sides 
of Regent's Inlet, and the passages leading out of it 
into Hudson's Bay. 

Ample scope was thus afforded for the discretion- 
ary power necessarily placed in the hands of the 
commander, whilst it was very evident that instead 
of only oney half a dozen " Prince Alberts " might 
have been fully employed for the accomplishment of 
all these different objects. 

Here a few words as to the means by which 
the equipment of the " Prince Albert " was effected, 
will not be out of place. Many of my readers 
are aware that Lady Franklin was aided by the 
subscriptions of her friends, her own funds being in- 
sufficient ; and in the Appendix will be found a list 
of the contributors, the sums contributed amounting 
to about 1500Z. 

Not the least interesting of these names is that of 



^ 



10 VOYAGE OF THE PBINCE ALBEBT. 

the First Lord of the Admiralty, under whose aus- 
pices Sir John Franklin's expedition was sent forth 
— the good Lord Haddington. And I should also 
mention, that to the munificent donation of Benja- 
min Smith, Esq., must be added that of kites, con* 
structed upon scientific principles, by which, if pro- 
perly managed, very considerable propelling power 
would be applied to the vessels. This gentleman 
was at infinite pains in the manufacture of these 
enormous kites, of which he also presented a large 
number, with the necessary apparatus, to Captain 
Penny. 

It is understood that Lady Franklin sold out of 
the funds, for the purposes of this expedition, all the 
money which she could legally touch ; and that the 
remainder of the expenses of the expedition, which is 
said to have cost between 3000Z. and 4000/., have 
been made good by herself. 

To this particular vessel, then, did many kind friends 
and well-wishers of the arctic expedition turn their 
eyes. By some it was doubted that she would ever 
be able to perform the voyage she was to undertake. 
Others, however, with better judgment, avowed 
their conviction that she was precisely the sort of 
craft that would answer best in the icy region 
whither she was bound. 

It should have been mentioned that the Admiralty 



THE ship's company. 11 

kindly supplied her with half a ton of pemmican, and 
the Hydrographer with nautical and scientific instru- 
ments. The Christian Knowledge Society also, at 
the request of Lady Franklin, sent on board a col- 
lection of books: and one individual alone, John 
Barrow, Esq., of the Admiralty, the son of Sir John 
Barrow, furnished, besides a handsome subscription 
to the fund, a perfect little library of most useful and 
interesting works. To this gentleman especially was 
the ** Prince Albert " and her crew much indebted, 
and I cannot help taking this opportunity of publicly 
offering him my thanks. 

Thus furnished, and thus attended to, the little 
vessel had only to be oflScered and manned to be 
ready for sea. The proper selection of officers is a 
task that requires great judgment and discrimination. 
The gentleman who was appointed as her com- 
mander, was one who had for many years honourably, 
and with distinction, served Her Majesty in the 
navy of Great Britain. The name of Charles Cod-- 
rington Forsyth was a sufficient guarantee for the 
good conduct of the expedition. Prompted by a 
nobleness of spirit which reflected upon him the 
highest credit, he offered himself and his services free 
of any remuneration. Obtaining the necessary per- 
mission from the Lords Commissioners of the Ad- 
miralty,' he took the command of the little " Prince 



12 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

Albert," and joined her at Aberdeen on the Ist of 
June, a few days prior to her departure. 

The crew or foremast men were engaged at 
Aberdeen ; and I must even here bear testimony to 
their general good conduct, their daring, fearless cha- 
racter, and their constant desire to prove themselves 
meny under every circumstance of difficulty or danger. 
Strongly attached to the cause in which they had 
embarked : earnest, at all times, in every endeavour 
made to explore or search any place where traces 
might be found of those whom we sought : faithful 
and zealous in the discharge of their respective duties, 
alike in the boats, or on shore, as on board or at sea, 
they were all good seamen ; most of them intelligent 
men, and not one but what deserved and has rightly 
received the warmest praise and commendation. For 
myself, I shall ever think of them with the liveliest 
feelings of pleasure and satisfaction ; and sincerely 
hope that they all may obtain that future good 
employment to which their conduct so richly en- 
titles them. 

My especial duty on board the ** Prince Albert " 
was to take charge of all the civil department of the 
vessel ; the superintending and issuing of stores, &c., 
the care of all the scientific instruments and medi- 
cine chest, our doctor not having joined us in time ; 
and to lead one of the two great exploring parties 



SOMETHING ABOUT THE WBITEB. 13 

that the ship's company were to be divided into when 
the season arrived for travelling ; the captain head- 
ing the principal party. Long used to a rough and 
wandering life, and my heart sensitively alive to the 
fate of those whom we were going to seek, I was 
perhaps peculiarly adapted for the service; and I 
certainly felt proud of the honour conferred upon me 
in being permitted to engage in it. Though not 
professedly a nautical man, I was yet such in reality, 
having long been accustomed to the sea, having for 
many years served a hard apprenticeship upon its 
treacherous bosom. My education, too, had been 
wholly nautical, and the very marrow in my bones 
was derived from one * who had himself fought 
and sorely bled for his country under his country's 
flag in her gallant ships of war. My four years' 
schooling had given me a knowledge of navigation, 
mathematics, and astronomy ; and I rejoiced at hav- 
ing an opportunity to devote it all to the service in 
which I had embarked. The wild and eventful life I 
should lead, with its constant changes and chances 
for weal or for woe, was peculiarly suited to my 
temperament ; and I embarked on the voyage full 
of spirits and of gladness. Like the commander, 

* Lieutenant W. J. Snow, R. N., son of Captain W. Snow, 
R. N. See Appendix. 



14 YOTAGE OF THE PBINCE ALBERT. 

and^ indecd> nearly all our crew, a married man, I 
had domestic ties binding me strongly to home; 
but I trust it will be seen that, however strong 
those ties were, I never allowed them to interfere 
with my duty. On the contrary, if anything, they 
proved a greater spur to urge me on. 

So much with regard to your humble servant, 
gentle reader ; but if, as I hope, you feel an interest 
in the voyage I am about to narrate, I find that I 
ought to enter somewhat more minutely into the com* 
menccment of it. In accompanying me, as I wish 
you to do, through my rough notes, and on our rough 
cruise, without any of the peril or discomfort of it, 
I must try to familiarise you with those who bore 
the burden and heat of the day therein. 



15 



CHAP. 11. 

ENGAGING THE CREW. — PAY-DAY FOR ADVANCE WAGES. 
— DOCTOR.— DESCRIPTION OP THE *' PRINCE ALBERT.*'— 
FITTING-OUT. 

Let me place before you a picture with which, pro- 
bably, your experience has never yet made you ac- 
quainted. It is pay-day for advance wages to the 
ship's company of the " Prince Albert," and in the 
private office of Mr. Hogarth, of Aberdeen, himself 
a justice of the peace, are three persons busily en- 
gaged: while a chief clerk, from another room, 
occasionally enters with documents and papers. The 
three persons are Mr. Hogarth, Captain Forsyth, and 
myself; and the chief clerk is Mr. Tytler, the com- 
plaisant and ever attentive working manager. Pre- 
sently a muster-roll is called, and at the first 
name there enters our chief executive officer who 
received his twenty-six weeks advance of single 
pay, at a rate of 9/. per month double pay, which 
double pay was allowed to all who received wages 
for their services. 

Next to him came the second mate : his advance 
was handed to him; and he then signed the Articles 



16 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

wherein he agreed to serve for a double pay of 7Z. 
per month. He was worth his money, if we take 
the labour he performed and his zeal only into con- 
sideration. 

The next person was the boatswain, a man whose 
age was registered as, I believe, forty-five years ; of a 
slim form, but with a tanned and hardy-looking 
countenance, he proved himself a thorough man, — 
cautious, yet not timid ; experienced in the ice, yet not 
presuming upon his experience. A good seaman and 
steady character, he was also a daring, rough, and 
fearless whaler. His advance was handed to him: 
he signed his name to a pay of 4/. \0s. per months 
and made room for the carpenter. This latter was 
even more advanced in life than the other. He was 
a steady man, and, I have every reason to believe, a 
good shipwright, though not a joiner. His fault, 
if any, was too much hesitation and want of prompti- 
tude in his work ; but this must be excused on account 
of his age. Following him was one who had been 
sent on board by Lady Franklin. He was a Shetlan- 
dcr, a native of Lerwick, and joined us ostensibly as 
blacksmith. Our occasion for the services of any 
individual in that capacity was likely to be but 
trifling : accordingly, we placed him as cabin steward, 
an office which he had never filled before, but in 
which he proved himself faithful and trustworthy. 



PAT-DAT FOR ADVANCE WAGES. 17 

He also received his advance at 4Z. 10^. per months 
and signing his name, left the office. After the 
steward came the cook ; another man well advanced 
in life ; but, as we found, none the less serviceable. 
He had, singularly enough, been with Commander 
Forsyth years ago, when the latter was first entering 
upon his naval career; and they both remembered 
each other. Keep the bottle away from Glennie, 
and he was an excellent man, a very good ship's 
cook, as well as a seaman, and, what was not the 
least of his merits, particularly clean in his habits 
and person, a desideratum much wanted in many 
of his particular calling. His pay was 4Z. 10^. per 
month ; and, receiving his advance, he gave place to 
others. 

And now came in as fine a looking set of 
men, taking all in all, and judging of them as they 
should be judged, as could have been picked out 
anywhere. Ten swarthy, weatherbeaten countenances, 
with hardy features and manly look, followed close 
upon the heels of each other. I fear to weary the 
patience of the reader, or I would gladly give some- 
what of each man's description, for they all and 
severally proved themselves everything, and even 
more, than their aspect told us they would be, when 
receiving their pay. Suffice it, that out of the ten, 
five had been long accustomed to the ice and its 

c 



18 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBEBT. 

dangers ; and the other five were men long inured to 
a wild sea life, far and near. Some were of middle 
age, and others young and in the full spring of 
manhood: all could write their names, and three 
of them, especially, were above their mates in the 
knowledge they had of navigation. 

They produced the necessary certificates ; received 
their money ; signed articles, and a paper drawn up 
against all future ** growling," and then retired to 
prepare themselves and families — for nearly all were 
married — for the voyage. 

Our doctor, who was highly recommended by the 
most respectable medical authority in Glasgow, came 
to the vessel without knowing exactly what she was, 
or anything of her size. Upon his arrival, he did not 
like her being so small, and declined the honour 
of accompanying her, afterwards explaining that he 
thought he had been engaged for one of Captain 
Austin's vessels, which had in fact sailed some weeks 
before. This occurred on the day but one before 
we sailed ; and to get another in so short a time was 
no easy task. In this emergency I ventured to oflTer 
to perform the duties which such an oflicer would 
be called upon to discharge. Medicine had to 
me long been a pleasing study; and in several 
merchant vessels to which I formerly belonged, no 
doctor but the captain was ever thought of. A 



DOCTOR. 1 9 

good medicine chest and Medical Guide was all that 
the skipper of those ships deemed necessary. With 
M* Arthur's excellent little book of directions, Recce's 
invaluable Medical Guide, and the humble skill I 
myself possessed I thought all would be well. 

I must confess that afterwards, on cool reflection, 
I felt I had done wrong in taking upon me such a 
heavy responsibility, more especially when I found 
that so many other duties would unavoidably fall to 
my share; but I determined to devote more and 
more attention to the study of the subject, and be 
always prepared for any emergencies that might arise. 
The broad sheet published by Dr. Alfred Smee in 
cases of accidents, &c., was pasted up conspicuously in 
the surgery, and another of a similar kind sent by 
the Christian Knowledge Society was rarely out of 
my pocket ; while all my medical books were arranged 
at hand, and particular pages turned down where im- 
portant cases were treated of. Nothing has given 
me more pleasure than to find that in every case 
requiring my services medically, I was, owing to the 
gracious providence of God, successful; and I am 
delighted to say that the men were in the best 
health on their return. Often had I to turn out in 
a cold and tempestuous night, with the sea washing 
over us, to go and administer relief to some man 

who was seized with sudden, and generally but 

c 2 



20 VOYAGE OP THE PBINCE ALBEBT. 

temporary paln^ after I had been performing other 
duty, and, fatigued, retired to rest only at past 
midnight; and though I begrudged not my time 
taken from sleep, yet the evil was, that my thoughts 
and ideas had to condense themselves more rapidly 
and strongly to bring them thus on the sudden to 
bear upon the precise subject or matter before me. 
However, II Dottore, albeit not an M. D., was 
fortunate in all the remedies he prescribed ; and is 
thankful to the Divine assistance aflTorded him for it. 
But I really must cry you mercy I gentlemen of 
the medical profession. I assure you it was with no 
view to encroach upon, or thrust myself into, your 
particular duties that I took upon me a character to 
which I had never any claim. But see how the case 
actually stood I One of your number did not like 
to go with us, when, at the last moment, we had no 
other to replace him. Many merchant skippers are 
their own doctors, and the size of our craft was so 
small that we too, I thought, might, upon such an 
emergency, also do without one. But I must not 
withhold that there was at the bottom a small matter 
of selfishness in this view of the question which I 
took. A snug little cabin would have to be shared 
with our medical officer if he came; or else, a 
material and inconvenient encroachment made upon 
our general state room for him. As he did not 



DESCBIPTION OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 21 

come^ I had my cabin to myself, and the size of the 
state room was not at all diminished. So you see 
that that germ of all evil, selfishness, which rests in 
every human heart, to some degree, was in a measure 
prominent in mine as regards this affair, and I am 
bound to acknowledge it. So much about the 
Doctor : now then let us to the ship again. 

The "Prince Albert" was built at Cowes, and 
registered there in October, 1848 ; and since that 
period she has been on two or three voyages in the 
fruit trade to and from the Azores. She was 89f 
tons ; and her length, from the inner part of main 
stem to fore part of stem post aloft, is 72 ^jj ft.; her 
breadth amidships, 17y*^ ft.; and her depth in the 
hold amidships, 9y^^ ft. Her height between decks, 
in the cabin, was somewhere about 5 ft. 6 in. ; and 
the room in that cabin was necessarily scant. 

This, however, is not mentioned disparagingly. 
On the contrary, every one of us was perfectly well 
aware of what she was, what she was capable of 
doing for us, and what we might expect in her. 
None of us looked to find a floating palace, nor 
anything but the roughest and hardiest kind of life 
while belonging to her; especially as we were to 
expect that the principal part of our duty would have 
to be carried out in boat service. With this know- 
ledge, I believe, every man joined the little craft ; and 

c 3 



22 VOYAGE OF THE PBINCE ALBEBT. 

hence, in the description I am giving, it is only with 
a view of showing what she really was, in order the 
more strongly to contrast her with, and prove her 
excellent qualities alongside of, larger vessels. With 
rarely a dry deck above, and no little moisture 
below, it was not a gentle and easy life we were 
leading ; even when free from the vicinity of land 
or ice. Yet so dearly do I love the honnie wee 
pety and so highly do I think of her, that I would 
gladly voyage again and again in those rough seas, 
or any other seas, on board of her ; and I only wish 
that it were my fate to have the " Prince Albert " 
under my hands up there once more, following hard 
upon the trail of her noble and gallant pioneers. I 
warrant me she would prove herself, as she has 
already done, not to be despised. 

I have now nearly done with preliminary matters. 
The rigging of the vessel was ably superintended by 
Mr. Cook, the master of the " Sylph" yacht be- 
longing to W. Hogarth, Esq.; and the sending 
stores, &c., on board, was carefully attended to by 
Mr. Macdonald, of the same gentleman's office. 
But indeed every one at Aberdeen appeared to 
take the same interest in us, vying with each 
other in rendering any service in their power. To 
Mr. Hogarth, his brother Hugh, and all his family, 
we owe, and myself especially, for their kind and 



FITTING OUT. 23 

generous hospitality, unbounded thanks. Their 
eldest boy, AUck, a noble young fellow, possessed 
the true spuit of a sailor; and I should have 
been well pleased had he accompanied us. The 
ladies, too, did not forget us ; Mrs. Hogarth herself 
kindly presenting us with a fine-toned accordion, but 
which, unluckily, none of us could play. We were 
more fortunate however with the fiddle and bag- 
pipes, the steward playing the former, and one of the 
men the latter. 

I have since learned that, had we waited a few 
days later, our vessel would have been honoured by 
the gift of an organ from His Royal Highness the 
Prince Albert, of which the value, great even as it 
would have been to us, was enhanced by the gracious 
terms in which the favour was conveyed. What 
feelings of ardent loyalty would have been awakened 
by hearing it pour forth the strains of our magnifi- 
cent national anthem ! 

One great essential among the preliminaries must 
not be forgotten. No man, who is himself a sailor, 
but must feel convinced that there is nothing to 
equal true, earnest, unaffected, and heartfelt religion. 
Prayer — honest prayer — is beyond everything in- 
valuable to a seaman, especially to one engaged in 
the dangerous duties which he has to perform in the 

Arctic Seas. That we should go out with a due 

c 4 



24 VOYAGE OF THE PBINCE ALBEBT. 

regard to this important obligation to prayer and 
humble dependence upon God, was what every one 
might consider as a matter of course; but I am 
pleased to say that, in our case, the " of course " 
was never needed. Spontaneously our men called 
for prayer and a proper service. Educated in the 
Scotch Church, they were all, more or less, Presby- 
terians ; but their particular persuasion was no hin- 
drance to the feeling which prompted them always 
to unite in divine worship, according to whatever 
form the commander considered necessary to adopt. 
As a Church of England man myself, I ever loved 
our own beautiful church service, yet felt that, in 
cases like the present, it was not exactly suited for 
the purpose we required. A simple prayer, with 
Bible reading and exposition, was what struck me as 
better adapted; and as I was the only civil officer 
and scribe, I ventured to write one, not then knowing 
of any other having been composed. This prayer 
was once or twice used at service on board, and 
frequently in private, with all warmth and sincerity. 
Bibles and Prayer-books had been liberally fiir- 
nished by the Christian Knowledge Society, and 
were given to the men immediately upon our getting 
to sea. A printed prayer, written by a clergyman 
of the Church of England, was distributed by Lady 
Franklin, who had written upon it each man's name. 



PBEPAEATIONS FOB SAILING. 25 

This form was often read; but I believe the men 
valued it most for the handwriting upon it, and the 
source whence it came. 

She had called them, severally, into the cabin on 
the evening prior to our departure, and talked to 
them earnestly concerning the object of the voyage 
and their conduct; and this they never afterwards 
forgot, frequently saying to me, in the homely 
Scotch I cannot literally give, " Ah, bless her heart ! 
dear lady. I only hope we shall find Sir John for 
her sake. Til do my best towards it:" and, occa- 
sionally adding, " Well, I was completely taken 
a-back when her ladyship talked to me. I felt 
salt-water in my eyes before I had gone a dozen 
words with her, and wasn't a bit sorry when it was 
all over. I'd like to talk with her, but I couldn't 
stand it." 

The day at last drew nigh when we were to sail 
on our destination. Our provisions had been stowed 
in an incredibly short space of time, and the vessel 
was filled to the very top with food, fuel, and general 
stores. From the wharf where we had been lying, 
she then hauled alongside the quay opposite the 
Custom-House, where her bonded and excisable 
goods were given to her, with the powder and other 
inflammable commodities. Owing to these latter 
coming on board only at the last moment, the 



26 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBEBT. 

greatest difficulty was caused in getting anything like 
order established in their stowage. Indeed, I found 
it impossible to accomplish what I wished; and, 
therefore, merely had them properly secured for sea, 
with the intention, on the earliest opportunity, of 
re-arranging them. All this being done, and the 
vessel duly cleared at the Custom-House, she hauled 
off from the quay to a huoy^ and there awaited the 
tide, to proceed to sea. 



27 



CHAP. III. 

READY FOR SEA. — LIVELY EXCITEMENT. — AN *^ ARCTIC 

LEAP." FAREWELL TO HOME. ARRIVAL AT THE 

ORKNEYS. — DEPARTURE FOR THE OPEN SEA. 

On Wednesday, June 5th, the "Prince Albert" 
was declared ready for sea; and never shall I 
forget the day. From early morning, crowds of 
persons, either friends or relatives of the men on 
board of us, or of those on board of whalers or the 
other discovery ships; besides numbers interested 
merely in our vessel and the object of its voyage, 
congregated on the quay opposite to us. Towards 
the afternoon the crowds increased, and a more than 
usual excitement was evident everywhere. Curious 
gazers stood scrutimzing our boats, gear, rig, and 
size. Some expressed a belief we should never come 
back again ; others avowed their entire disinclination 
ever to participate in such a voyage. Not a few 
came on board, rather incommoding us, until we 
hauled away to the buoy. Lady Franklin was not 
present on this occasion, but others — the wives of 
those already in the Arctic Seas — came themselves, 



28 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

to deliver, with their own hands, those silent yet 
heart-speaking memorials, which, in the shape of 
letters, tell so truly the unceasing devotion of the 
loved one left at home. Oh, how I felt my own 
heart glow, as I took from their hands the packet 
to be conveyed, and listened to their words, as, 
forgetting all but womanly love, they desired me, 
should I meet with him or them^ to tell how well 
they were in health; and, too, how comfortable, 
as far as they could be comfortable alone. And 
happy was I, afterwards, when I had the oppor- 
tunity so to fiilfil their requests. 

Towards six o'clock. Commander Forsyth finally 
came on board, after parting from his wife and child, 
and from Lady Franklin, who were hospitably lodged 
in the house of Mr. Hogarth. My parting had been 
in London a fortnight before, and letters since had 
helped to moderate, in a measure, somewhat of my 
natural feeling about it ; but I had another parting 
to make in Aberdeen, which affected me not a 
little. It was when Lady Franklin bade me, in 
the few last words she had to say, *' Good bye." 
It seems but yesterday since she said it ; and how 
well do I remember her look of intense feeling, of 
agitated hope and anxiety. It was in the cabin of 
Mr. Hogarth's yacht, where the final adieu took 
place ; and never did I feel more determined to per- 



PABTING FROM LADY FRANKLIN. 29 

form, to the utmost, what I had always promised 
her, than at the moment when, with tears in her 
eyes, bringing mine also very near the brim, she 
long and earnestly shook my hand, and said " Fare- 
well." 

The excitement of the scene soon came upon usy 
as well as upon the lookers-on, and we gradually 
forgot everything but the great object in which we 
were now engaged. Perhaps! was the only one 
who felt positively alone at that animating moment, 
when voice after voice was hailing us, to say to some 
intimate friend or companion, the always sad word, 
"Farewell." There was not one among them all 
who knew me more than a casual acquaintance ; and 
yet there were many who, with friendly hearts, had 
made me feel that I was not completely a stranger 
among them ; and had bade me a kindly adieu just 
before the hurry and bustle came on. 

It was now necessary to get all our men on board 
and muster them. Several of them had been working 
hard through the day, and really proved of great 
assistance at a time when it is rare to find that 
any sailors will work at all. To our great satis- 
faction, all the ship's company soon appeared. Gra- 
dually our little vessel was filled with their wives 
and friends ; and when the tide began to make, and 
we moved from the buoy to the outer harbour, we 



30 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBEBT. 

were so crowded that a person could hardly move. 
The quays and bridges were by this time thronged 
with a vast multitude assembled to witness our de- 
parture. As we passed through the first bridge, 
" That is Lady Franklin's own vessel, which she is 
sending out to search for her husband," was heard 
from many. " Success to the * Prince Albert ! ' " 
was shouted aloud ; and " May you return safe and 
prosperous I " was added by others who wished us 
well. In the outer harbour we again made fast for 
a short time, until the steamer that was to tow us 
out came alongside. Here we found that two or 
three trifling things necessary for us were stiU 
wanted, and I jumped into a boat, and was soon 
ashore after them. On my return, when passing 
through the crowd, I had difficulty to move, so 
dense had it become. " That's one of them I that's 
one of them ! " was cried by some person who knew 
my features ; and instantly every eye was upon me, 
as though I were an inhabitant of that polar region 
whither we were bound. 

Upon getting aboard again, I found the pilot 
had come : our colours hoisted, and the long burgee 
flaunting from our mast-head in proud display. The 
whole ship's company was now mustered ; and well 
did every man answer to his call, as with firm step 
and steady air he walked up to his station and then 



LIVELY EXCITEMENT. 81 

turned forward. I have been in not a few ships 
during my lifetime, men-of-war and merchantmen, 
but never did I witness a finer display than that 
which was presented when the crew of the " Prince 
Albert " answered to their muster-roll. Not a single 
instance of drunkenness or insubordination: not 
one absent. 

And now began the full life and spirit of the scene. 
The word was given ; the hawsers passed, and the 
steam-tug " Victory " took us in tow. The moment 
we commenced moving, cheer upon cheer rang 
through the air; voices shouting out adieus innu- 
merable, sounded upon the ear like another Babel ; 
waving of handkerchiefs, hurrahs, hats and caps 
thrown on high, was the kindly farewell of the honest- 
hearted Aberdonians. As we slowly passed Mr. 
Duthie's yard, a salute was fired and colours hoisted ; 
while a lively band of music from some unknown 
place sounded joyously in our ears. At ten minutes 
past eight we passed through the " locks," where we 
had been detained for a moment or two, and where an 
incident occurred which was strongly characteristic 
of our voyage. One of our men, Glennie, had 
sprung ashore either to shake hands once more with 
some old friend; or, may be on the sly, to have another 
taste of his favourite whisky. As we moved onward 
through the ^^ locks " the crowd was so thick that he 



32 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBEBT. 

was prevented easily getting back again, and it was 
only at the last moment, by a sort of desperate spring, 
that he managed to jump from the quay on board of 
us at the stem. So wild and flying did he seem to 
spring, that a gentleman near him, who was calmly 
looking on, sung out, ** He is already practising the 
* Arctic leap, ' " which being received by a loud and 
prolonged shout, procured for Glennie for a long 
time afterwards the soubriquet of the ** Arctic 
Leaper." 

Mr. Hogarth, in his fine little yacht the ** Sylph," 
now passed ahead of us, very kindly intending to 
keep us company as far as the Orkneys. As we 
slowly moved on towards the bay, we could see the 
crowd extending itself in one long line to the very 
extreme point of the projecting pier that formed one 
side of the entrance to the harbour. Here, as we 
were towed past it, renewed cheers upon cheers were 
shouted far and near, and kept up until the " Prince 
Albert " had cast off from the steamer, passed Girdle- 
ness, and was fairly out at sea. A swell from 
the south-east gave us a little motion, and produced 
upon the many strangers we had on board the 
usual symptoms of sea-sickness. Several were dis- 
tressingly ill, and were, no doubt, exceedingly glad 
when, after some delay, a boat took them off to the 
rteamer and conveyed them back to the shore. The 



DEPABTURE FOR THE OPEN SEA. 33 

final adieu between them and their friends and 
relatives was said, and then with a light air we 
made all sail and stood away to the northward. 

Thursday y June 6th. — The following day, Thurs- 
day, with a light south-easterly breeze, we were 
going along the land at a gentle rate. Our men had 
slept off their shore carousals, and were busily en- 
gaged attending to the vessel and their own private 
comforts in the forecastle. At 12.30 we were off 
Peterhead, when, upon our colours being hoisted, an 
answer was given from the coast guard station, and 
a boat was sent off, which spoke the yacht in com- 
pany astern of us, and received from Commander For- 
syth, who was on board of her, some additional letters 
for London. Soon afterwards a salute was fired from 
the town. 

We now found that, despite her being so deep in 
the water, and her additional strengthening, the 
" Prince Albert " sailed very well ; at all events, with 
the wind as we now possessed it ; light, and fair on 
our starboard quarter. 

In the evening the respective watches were duly 
set, and the vessel got in good sailing order. During 
the morning of Friday the 7 th, we had light winds 
from S. by E. to N. E., with thick foggy weather. 
At noon, Duncanshy Head bore from us N. by W. four 
miles. In the afternoon the wind gradually veered 



34 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBEBT. 

round to the westward ; and from three o'clock until 
half-past four we had a hard job beating to windward 
for Long Hope, where we anchored during a fresh- 
ening breeze and threatening weather. The yacht 
" Sylph " piloted us in, and was, in more respects 
than one, a most agreeable consort. 

Towards midnight the gale increased, blowing very 
hard in squalls from the westward, and continuing the 
same throughout the following day (Saturday, June 
8th). As we could do no good by venturing to sea 
in it, we remained at anchor, and employed the men 
in re-stowing the hold, and making everything still 
more secure against rough weather. I took the op- 
portunity to fix up all the various nautical and scien- 
tific instruments, and to ascertain that everything in 
the cabin was properly fastened, so that the lively mo- 
tion we found the little vessel possessed, would not 
cause injury. The medicine chest was most effectu- 
ally secured: the chronometers again fixed so firmly 
in the box prepared for them, as to make it almost im- 
possible for any movement of the ship to hurt them. 
My own cabin, too, was attended to by myself: 
and shelves and fastenings put wherever requisite. 
All the doors and sashes had been previously doubled, 
so as to preclude any cold air from entering ; but I 
afterwards foimd that this caused as much injury, by 
stopping proper ventilation, as it afforded benefit in 
the way intended. 



• 



JDEPARTUEE FOB THE OPEN SEA. 35 

June. — Sunday the 9th commenced with light airs 
and showers. At 9.30 we weighed anchor, and 
made all sail out of Long Hope, , At ten we parted 
from our kind and hospitable friend Mr. Hogarth, 
who, in his yacht " Sylph," after giving us three hearty 
cheers, stood on his way towards the mainland, while 
we worked to windward, through the Pentland Frith. 
At noon, Dunnet Head bore from us, west, four or 
five miles. In the afternoon we had light breezes and 
very hazy weather, accompanied by a most unplea- 
sant chopping sea. 

At six P. M. we were off Hoy Heady which was 
bearing N. E. by E. about twenty miles. Mid- 
night we had strong breezes and rain, with a 
heavy head sea. Altogether, this was a most dis- 
agreeable day. The wind, the weather, and the sea 
were against us; and it being the first, too, of 
our being alone, rendered it more dispiriting and 
wretched. We might now be said to be fairly at 
sea, and henceforth the incidents of our voyage, for 
some time to come, are purely nautical. 



D 2 



36 VOYAGE OF THE PBINCE ALBEBT. 



CHAR IV. 

FAIRLY AT SEA. — GOOD QUALITIES OF THE VESSEL. 

A NAUTICAL POST-OFFICE. — SHORE SICKNESS. — COLDER 
WEATHER. — VALUE OP OLD NEWSPAPER SCRAPS. — 
ROUTINE OF DAILY LIFE. 

Monday \Oth. — On Monday the 10th, we had, in 
the morning, strong westerly breezes, rain, and thick 
weather. At noon, and the early part of the 
afternoon, the wind was light from the S.W., but 
towards midnight it again blew strong from that 
quarter, accompanied with heavy rain. We had but 
very little darkness now at night, and at ten p.m. we 
could clearly make out Rona Island bearing from us 
S. W. by S. about eight miles. 

Tuesday Wth. — At five o'clock on the following 
morning it was blowing hard from the westward 
with constant rain; but at noon it moderated and 
became very clear, gradually assuming a steady 
westerly breeze and fine weather, though with a 
heavy head sea. 

Wednesday \2th. — The following day we had, at 
first, light southerly and south-westerly winds, with 
rain, which suddenly changed, about six P. M., to a 



FAIELT AT SEA. 37 

Strong breeze from the north, soon freshening to a 
gale, with high sea and hazy weather. We now 
found the vessel to be an excellent sea-boat, hardly 
shipping any water in comparison to what is expected 
of small ships in general. She was also very tight, 
her pumps not having once been used from necessity. 

Thursday \^th. — The next morning the wind 
was fair, but blowing hard from N. N. E., with 
drizzling rain and a heavy sea. Sail had to be 
reduced to a double-reefed mainsail and storm jib. 
At noon, and during the subsequent part of the day, 
it was more moderate, and accordingly all sail was 
made upon the vesseL Our position at noon of this 
day was lat. 59° 19', long. 13° 42', and at the end of 
the twenty-four hours we found that we had enjoyed 
a good run of 140 miles, the best we had yet ex- 
perienced. The weather on this day, though com- 
fortable, was yet colder than usual; but I did not 
intend changing any of my light shore apparel until 
absolutely obliged; hoping thereby gradually to 
accustom myself to that state of temperature which 
I must eventually endure. 

Friday 14^A. — Throughout this day we had steady 
breezes and fair weather, until the evening, when 
the wind fell light and calm with a cloudy sky. 

Saturday \6th. — The next twenty-four hours 
gave us light airs from S.E. to N. E., with clear 

D 3 



38 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBEET. 

weather and a smooth sea. At 2.30 p.m. a cask 
containing letters, &c., addressed to the Secretary of 
the Admiralty, was thrown overboard for the purpose 
of ascertaining the direction of the current. 

The day being so calm and fair, it was determined 
to put the hold to rights, placing therein all the 
superfluous things we had in the store-room, and 
leaving out only such necessaries as we required for 
a certain length of time. A victualling scale was 
also drawn up and submitted to Commander Forsyth; 
upon his approval, it was appointed for regular 
weekly distribution. 

Sunday 16^A. — Until the evening of this day we 
had moderate easterly and south-easterly breezes. 
It was the first Sunday, properly speaking, we had 
had at sea^ and truly did we all enjoy it. It proved 
a day of perfect rest and loveliness. The weather 
was delightful ; a gentle wind, a clear sky, and 
calm sea, with a warm and genial air, prevailed 
throughout, and the vessel glided along noiselessly 
and almost imperceptibly. The arrangement for 
performing divine service had been fixed on the 
previous evening by Commander Forsyth, who this 
morning, at 10.30, read prayers and a sermon. All 
the men attended, and appeared to take a devout 
interest in their religious duties. 

About seven P. m. the wind freshened up from the 



SHOBE SICKNESS. 39 

southward, with dark cloudy weather, and during 

the ensuing night it continued increasing from the 

S. W, and westward. On the morning of the 17th 

it was blowing rather strong, and by the afternoon 

had reached to a hard gale with squalls, and rain, 

and a heavy head sea. If the preceding day had 

been remarkably fine and peaceable, this was as 

remarkably stormy and restless; for during the 

whole twenty-four hours there was nothing but 

shortening sail, and attending to the heavy seas 

which now and then broke their tops short off 

against us. Not one moment did our little craft 

give us any rest. To sit, or stand, or lie, was 

equally the same. Truly " tossed to and fro by the 

billows of the deep," she was like a mere bladder 

upon the water ; and at no time, before, had any of us 

experienced so disagreeably her lively and incessant 

motion. For myself, I was all but sea-sick, and it 

was only by taking a remedial dose that I was 

enabled to keep up. Several of the men were 

affected in like manner, and I believe there was not 

one of us that did not, in some measure or other, 

sensibly experience the singular disagreeableness of 

this day. 

It was at about three p.m. that I was desired to 

see one of the men, who complained of severe pains 

i>4 



40 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

across the bottom of his chest; and of general Illness. 
I had, before, been obliged to pay some attention to 
a few of the men, who had experienced sundry ail- 
ments, arising from change of life and diet ; but the 
present was of a more serious nature than any I had 
yet had to do with. I found that the man had been 
drinking to excess while on shore, and that his ill- 
ness now, indeed, arose from that one cause only. 
It will be sufficient to observe that I treated him 
accordingly ; and though I had at first some trouble 
and anxiety, yet in five days' time he was suffi- 
ciently recovered to be put again on duty ; though 
it was not for a long time afterwards that I allowed 
him to take any grog. 

Tuesday \%ih, — This day throughout was very 
rough, with a foul wind and high sea. In the 
evening the gale increased, with dark threatening 
weather, and showers of snow and sleet. Our vessel, 
however, proved herself an admirable sea-boat, 
shipping but little water, and riding very easily over 
the lofty waves that rushed incessantly and fiercely 
towards her. All night the wind continued to in- 
crease. Sail after sail was taken in, until, about four 
A.M. of the 19th, during a heavy gale from the west- 
ward and sharp snowstorms, we were obliged to 
heave to under a double-reefed mainsail ; for the first 
time since leaving home. At noon of this day, the 



COLDEE WEATHEB. 41 

southern point of Greenland (Cape Farewell) bore 
from US nearly W. ^N. about 375 miles. 

Towards midnight the gale abated, and light 
breezes, with showers, and a cross sea, followed. 
All sail was agdn made; but the wind being ad- 
verse, little was done in the way of progress. 

The weather during this day was much colder, 
and I was compelled to exchange the thin summer 
apparel, which I had worn on shore, for some of a 
heavier and warmer nature. For the first time, I 
found it necessary to put on my heaviest sea-boots, 
and hose belonging to them, on account of the sea 
washing on board so much. 

Thursday 20^A, Friday 2\st — The next day 
brought light easterly airs and pleasant weather ; and 
the following, moderate breezes, cahns, and, again, 
light winds, accompanied in the afternoon with dark 
cloudy weather. Towards midnight the breeze 
freshened up from the westward, attended with 
heavy rain. During the forenoon, I was enabled 
to examine a large case containing newspapers and 
printed scraps, that had hitherto been on deck, ex- 
posed to the seas, from having no room below to 
place it. Of course, nearly all the papers were 
wetted sorely, and it took me many days thoroughly 
to dry them. My object in bringing so large 
a supply of newspapers may be briefly stated. I 



42 VOYAGE OF THE PEINCE ALBEBT. 

have often, myself, when at sea, felt the greatest 
delight from perusing a journal, however old it might 
be ; and I was convinced that during the long winter 
sojourn that we anticipated, many, if not all of those 
I now brought with me, would prove most acceptable. 
I had, too, weekly papers for the past four or five 
years, and these, I thought, would be gladly perused 
by those who had been so long absent from their 
native land, should we be fortunate enough to fall in 
with them. Our worthy friend " Punch," and the 
"Illustrated London News," would come in most 
amusingly to us when we had nought else to do, 
during the long dark nights we should experience ; 
and of these I had two or three volumes. My 
budget of scraps was a complete omnium gatherum 
of literary and general information. I used to con 
them over after some extra fatigue for an hour or 
two of an evening; and when I felt myself unable to 
read a book of any kind, I could turn to these, and 
be well amused with them. They were not too long 
and prosy, nor too short and unmeaning ; but, as a 
whole, full of interest and edification. These scraps, 
then, with my newspapers, I took due care of, look- 
ing forward to the time when all hands would, as I 
felt assured, ftdly appreciate their value. 

Saturday 22nd. — On the 22nd we had the wind 
very variable, between fair and foul, and occasionally 



DELAYED BY HEAVY GALES. 43 

both ; principally from the N. W. to N. E. The 
weather, too, was alternately clear and cloudy, and 
the air much colder. This arose, probably, from the 
wind blowing off the icy coast of Greenland, to which 
we were then fast approaching; being, at noon, only 
220 miles from Cape Farewell. Icebergs, too, were 
hourly expected ; and the temperature of the water 
was frequently tried, though I only registered it once 
a day. There was a peculiarity in the colour of the 
water the whole way, which I had never observed so 
extensively on any other voyage. Instead of its 
being of the usual blue appearance, it had more the 
look that soundings would have caused it to present. 
It was always of a dirty-looking green, or muddy 
aspect ; excepting on this one day, when it assumed 
an ultramarine hue. 

Hitherto we had gone on as well as we perhaps 
could have expected ; but, now, began a series of 
baffling and vexatious trials, which, in the shape of 
foul winds and heavy gales, delayed us in nearly 
one position a whole week. What we gained one 
day we lost the next; and to look at our track 
chart, any stranger might think we had had nothing 
else to do but to trace and retrace our steps in any 
direction except that in which we were bound.* But 

* About this same place, too, Sir Edward Parry, in his cele- 
brated first voyage, was much delayed. 



44 VOYAGE OF THE PEINCE ALBEET. 

a ship is always at the sport of the winds and waves ; 
and what it does not please Him, who holds the winds 
and the waves in His keeping, to grant us, we must 
be contented to do without. The day ended, to- 
wards midnight, with squally and unsettled weather, 
and symptoms of a gale. 

Sunday 23rf. — This Sunday was a very different one 
from the last. It was a rough unpleasant day, with 
a heavy breeze from the westward and N. W. ; right 
against us; and producing a disagreeable high sea. 
The weather was cloudy and cold, and divine service 
had to be performed below, in the cabin. 

Monday 24th. — The next morning brought us no 
improvement. Throughout the whole day it was 
blowing a strong westerly gale, with a high sea and 
heavy showers of rain. Thick fogs occasionally en- 
veloped us in darkness, and rendered our position still 
more disagreeable. Indeed, the whole past week had 
been very dispiriting, no progress having been made> 
and yet every day fraught with anxiety and im- 
portance. Already, as we judged, late in the season, 
every twenty-four hours' delay, we suspected, would 
increase the difficulties in our way across the ice in 
Baffin's Bay. The last two days had added to our 
distance from Cape Farewell, instead of diminishing 
it ; and we were now 258 miles from that extreme point 
of Greenland : last Saturday we had been only 220. 



KOUTINE OF DAILY LIFE. 45 

Tuesday 25th, — At ten P. M., however, it mode- 
rated, and for the next twenty-four hours we had light 
winds and finer weather from the same quarter; 
but this was still against us, and we could do but 
little in the way of getting on. 

Our daily life was this : — 

At half-past six I used to turn out; and, warm 
or cold, wet or dry, take an immediate ablution in 
the pure and natural element. For half an hour I 
would then walk on deck, fair or foul ; and, a little 
before eight, examine the men's forecastle; see to 
their condition, and whether any of them were sick ; 
and if so, give them medicine. At eight bells, I 
would then take the chronometrical time for Captain 
Forsyth, while he observed the altitude of the sun, 
to get our longitude. Latterly I used, by his de- 
sire, to take a set of sights also myself, taking the 
time from a common watch, and comparing it after- 
wards with the chronometer. The chronometers 
were then wound up by me, and the thermometer, 
barometer, &c., registered. 

At eight o'clock the two mates went to breakfast ; 
the captain and I getting ours soon after them. 
During the forenoon I had to attend to the stores, 
provisions, &c. ; write my accounts, journals, and 
other papers; and at noon worked up the ship's reck- 
oning, the observations, and write the ship's log, ex- 



46 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBEBT. 

aminiDg our present position and future course. All 
this was done under Commander Forsyth's superin- 
tendence: and I am truly indebted to him for the 
opportunities he afforded me for brushing up the old 
knowledge I had on the subject. The mates had 
their dinner at noon: the captain and I at three 
p. M. ; after which, a stroll for an hour or so on deck 
was taken by both of us. Tea came round at six, 
and at eight p. m. I used to try the temperature of 
the air on deck, and of the sea. After that, we 
would read together in the stem cabin. At ten, we 
would take our hot grog; and, generally about eleven, 
when free from rough weather or the neighbourhood 
of ice, turn in for the night. Often, however, the 
captain and I have been on deck for hours ; care and 
anxiety upon his mind; and the same, very na- 
turally, though in a smaller degree, upon mine. 
Very little candle was required below at night, as 
there was seldom more than an hour or two's dark- 
ness during any part of our voyage, until we were 
returning. It was not long after this date, more- 
over, that we had continued daylight through the 
whole twenty-four hours. 

The men had their amusements and regular occu- 
pations. Divided into the usual watches, there was 
plenty of them at all times to handle the ship easily ; 
and it was very rare that all hands, unless when 



BOUTINE OP DAILY LIFE. 47 

among ice, and then not very often, were required 
on deck at the same time. Consequently, they had 
their entire portion of rest almost unbroken ; and the 
regular life they led, the good and liberal supply of 
food furnished them, and their own contented and 
cheerful minds, produced the natural and certain 
results to be looked for. They increased in health 
and appearance; and instead of dwindling away in 
the cold, became more robust and florid. Every 
Saturday evening (oftener when necessary, or when 
heavy labour was performed) a glass of grog was 
given them: the fiddle was brought on deck, if 
weather permitted, the merry dance and song went 
round, wives and sweethearts were drunk with honest 
warmth of feeling; and never was there a happier 
set of fellows than they seemed. Pleased with their 
vessel and those who commanded them, satisfied with 
what they received, ardent in the cause in which 
they had embarked, and all more or less humbly, and 
in a manly way, depending upon their God, they 
presented precisely the sort of crew that the most 
enthusiastic and daring man would wish to have with 
him on any sort of enterprize. 

My own feelings at this time were light and 
buoyant, though earnestly wishing we could get on 
somewhat faster. I could say in truth ; 



48 VOYAGE OF THE PEINCE ALBERT. 

'* My bark is on the waters, my home is on the sea ; 
For I love to ride 
On the wild blue tide, 
And merrily, merrily be." 

And often have I hummed this bit of doggrel 
rhyme, when the gale has been blowing highest. 
There was justice in the captain's remark, that I 
" was never so happy as in a gale of wind," to which 
I always added, "if it is fair. Sir, not without." I 
wanted to get to our destination, and to commence 
our actual labours; and anything and everything 
that would help us thither was good to me. 



49 



CHAR V. 

SUCCESSION OF FOUL WINDS AND HEAVY GALES. — HOVE 

TO. — THE FIRST ICEBERG. ROUNDING CAPE FAREWELL. 

— DRIFT-WOOD. MAGNIFICENT MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

Tuesday 25 th, — This day, as I have observed, 
brought us no improvement as regarded our pro- 
gress. The weather was finer, but the winds were 
light and against us. But, as it afterwards ap- 
peared, this was but a lull in the series of gales 
we had lately had and were still to have : for during 
the next night (Wednesday 26th) it began to blow 
again with great fury from the westward, ac- 
companied by a heavy sea, and greater cold than 
we had yet experienced. In vain the little Albert 
tried to stem it, plunging and driving and tossing 
the crest of each fierce wave over her bows as if in 
proud contempt : it would not do. Struggling and 
staggering under the tremendous seas that rolled 
towards her, she evidently needed relief; and ac- 
cordingly the small portion of canvass that remained 
upon her was still further lessened for the purpose, 
and she was then hove to. Lightly did she then 

E 



50 VOYAGE OP THE PBINCE ALBERT. 

ride upon the waters, grateful, poor thing, for the 
boon we had thus afforded her. 

Thursday 27th. — The following morning the gale 
abated, and all sail was made, to light breezes from 
the westward and north. A complete change in the 
weather took place, and the sun in all its beauty was 
shining in a cloudless sky, while the wind was like 
a gentle summer breeze. That wind, however, con- 
tinued foul ; and thus were we in the same position 
as about a week previous. A fog-bank occasionally 
would arise, and a heavy swell from one quarter^ 
with a counter swell in opposition, agitated the water 
rather unpleasantly. Several birds (mollemokes) 
were about us this day; and a whale or two was 
observed spouting at a distance; also a porpoise 
darting away to the south-west. 

Friday 2Sth, — For a wonder, we had a fair wind 
this morning; but it was too good to last long. 
A few hours, and it then turned foul agsdn, falling 
light at the same time, with thick foggy weather, and 
a cross sea. At noon there was a strong south-westerly 
breeze, with alternate rain and fog; and in the 
evening light westerly winds with the same thick 
heavy weather. 

Saturday 29th, — The wind was fair again on this 
morning, blowing gently from the southward and 
south-east, but accompanied by a dense fog, and occa- 



GR£EyLAND CAPE. 51 

sionally very heavy rain. A remarkable sea speedily 
arose ; and the barometer falling quickly during the 
morning, denoted the approach of another gale. But 
the afternoon passed away without any other symp- 
toms of it, except an increasing swell from the 
northward. Our dead reckoning at noon gave us 
about seventy-three miles from Cape Farewell, which 
bore about N.W. of us; so that it was not desirable 
for us to get nearer that little known and dangerous 
locality. The wind had gradually veered round 
towards the north ; and though keeping light. Cap- 
tain Forsyth, with great judgment and skill, began, 
as evening approached, to shorten sail ; and well was 
it that he did so: for at seven o'clock, with little 
notice, it was blowing very hard from N. by E., and 
a tremendously high sea tumbling in upon us. It 
was indeed the grim spirit of the Greenland Cape 
pouring forth his vial of wrath upon our tiny bark, 
for daring to venture near his dreaded haunts. But 
she stood the attack boldly. As if in contempt at 
the monster's eflTorts to destroy or injure her, she 
refused to ship even a drop of water, comparatively 
speaking, after we had hove her to again at nine 
P. M. Her rocking and pitching, however, was 
beyond all description; for higher and higher rose 
the seas, any one of them, if breaking on board, 

enough to instantly overwhelm her ; and fiercer and 

X 2 



52 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

fiercer blew the wind. Her lee bulwarks were fre- 
quently right under water ; and a cask that was lashed 
on that side of the deck was fairly lifted up and thrown 
into the sea, the lashing alone saving it from being 
entirely lost. It seemed as if all the preceding gales 
had united in this one. For the first time we had to 
close reef the mainsail, the only sail now standing ; 
and at ten o'clock it was almost a question whether 
even that morsel of canvass would not be blown out 
of the bolt ropes. During the whole night it con- 
tinued thus ; the sea being higher than many of the 
men had ever seen it here before for years, though 
their lives had been almost passed in annual voy- 
ages to this region. Those who had been to Cape 
Horn or the Cape of Good Hope, of course had 
seen heavier; although, in my opinion, it merely 
consisted in the length and not the height of the 
seas. 

The howling of the wind was so distinctly heard 
below in our cabins, the motion of the vessel was 
so great, and the plunging and lurching so heavy on 
my particular side (being to leeward that night), 
that I could get but little sleep, and it was late 
in the morning before I sank into oblivion. When I 
awoke again (Sunday 30th), the wind had greatly 
subsided, though still blowing a heavy gale with a 
dull cloudy sky. At noon it moderated sufficiently 



THE FIBST ICEBEBG. 53 

to permit our making a little sail ; but the weather 
was altogether so rough, that divine service could 
not be performed this day. At noon we made our- 
selves ninety-five miles from Cape Farewell, and I 
ascended to the mast-head to see if the land* could be 
made out, it being clearer; but I failed in doing so. 
In the afternoon it was more moderate and clear, with 
the wind at north-west. Increased sail was made, as 
we could set it : but at night, again, the gale fresh- 
ened up, and we had to make all snug and fast as 
before. The following morning (Monday, July 1st) 
the same foul wind and weather continued, though 
with far lighter breezes, ending in calms and rain 
through the night. 

Tuesday 2nd. — At two A. M. of the next day we 
passed the first iceberg about a mile off. A breeze 
soon afterwards came from the eastward, and actually 
continued ^zV for nine hours! when it again returned 

to its old foul-weather quarter in the west. 

At four A. M. two more icebergs were passed, and 
several pieces of drift-wood. With reference to the 
latter, which is so frequently found in the seas 
about the coast of Greenland, I may, in passmg, ob- 
serve, that that eminent scientific arctic voyager. 
Dr. Scoresby, states that the origin of it is traced to 

* Cape Farewell can be seen that distance : Parry having 
sighted it 100 miles off. 

E 3 



54 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

some country beyond the pole, and may be brought 
forward in aid of the opinion that there exists a sea 
communication between the Atlantic and the Pacific, 
— a notion that receives additional strength from 
the circumstance of some of the drift-wood being 
worm-eaten.* 

At ten A. M. of this day the land was said to have 
been seen bearing from N. to E. by N. sixty-five 
miles ; but I believe neither Captain Forsyth nor 
myself fairly made it out. However, our position 
was then such as to have brought it within our view, 
had the haze in that quarter been removed, and it is 
probable that some one really did see it. Kemainder 
of the day clear and cold. 

Wednesday 3d. — In the morning of this day we 
had a fair but Upht breeze and smooth water. At 
noon it was calm, or nearly so. Our smallest boat 
(the dingey) was hoisted out ; and, getting into her, 
I had a pull round the ship for a short distance. As 
we had fairly turned the extreme point of Southern 
Greenland, we might be said to have just entered 
Davis' Straits, and cleared the tempestuous Northern 
Ocean. This was hardly so, yet we were willing to 
admit of its being so ; and it was with some degree 

* Vide his work on the Arctic Regions, ch. i. p. 3., a most 
invaluable fund of information on all subjects connected with 
that almost unknown part of the world. 



STATE OF OUB VESSEL, 55 

of curiosity that I looked upon the " Prince Albert,'* 
as she now lazily lifted to the swell, to see how she 
had stood the rough handling she had hitherto ex- 
perienced. It was the first time, out of the ship, I 
had seen her when fairly at sea, and well pleased 
was I with the look she presented. First pulling 
right away on the starboard beam ; then ahead, and 
running athwart her bows, resting a moment in the 
line of her eye ; and, finally, dropping the boat and 
ranging up under her stem; I had a good exami- 
nation of her on all sides, and well did she bear the 
test. Not a single yam appeared to be displaced 
about her rigging, and the very paint upon her sides 
did not seem the least discoloured. But the point I 
most thought of was her qualifications for the service 
she would now very speedily be entering upon. In 
the boat with me were two old whalers, who, ob- 
serving me examining our mutual home, said, *' She's 
small. Sir, but a bonnie thing for a' that. We're 
not a&aid of her, but she'll do her duty well ; " and 
so I myself thought. Alone in that wide world of 
waters; with the heaving sea coming in from the 
south-west ; all her sails set to a faint breeze, and a 
fast-falling mist beginning to spread abroad; she 
looked at first sight incapable of doing anything that 
would be wanted of her ; yet, upon longer exami- 

B 4 



56 VOYAGE OP THE PBINCE ALBEBT. 

nation^ watching her steady and graceful movements, 
her quiet and almost imperceptible motion while 
shooting ahead without any apparent cause^ — there 
being so little wind, — and the sharp wedge-like 
formation of her bows; strengthened and fortified, 
not only there but throughout her whole hull; it 
was evident that she would answer; and that good 
work could be got out of her. I jumped on board, 
none the less proud of the little craft to which I 
belonged, from the examination I had thus externally 
made of her. The dingey was then hoisted up astern, 
to be ready, if necessary, for lowering on the instant 
if any emergency should require her services. 

In the latter part of the afternoon the weather 
became thick and foggy, with a foul wind from the 
northward ; our course now being in that direction, 
instead of any longer westward. 

Thursday 4th. — This day we had calms, and light 
airs from the southward and south-east, with thick 
cloudy weather and smooth sea. Very poor progress. 
At noon Cape Desolation, — which, as Captain Fitz- 
james observes, "sounds Polar enough," — was dis- 
tant about 101 miles. 

Friday 5th, — Light winds were now as prevalent 
as heavy gales had been before our rounding Cape 
FarewelL Smooth water, genial weather, and no ice 
in sight, made pleasant sailing of it to those who 



A CALM. 57 

might like such a listless life, but I believe there 
were very few of us who admired it. Some change, 
however, was made this day in our accustomed work, 
for the ice saws, crow's nest, &c., were got out to 
be duly prepared ; possibly, for speedy use. 

Saturday 6tk. — This morning I went on deck 
rather earlier than usual, and was quite enchanted 
with the loveliness of the scene that met my view. 
There was a fine gentle breeze from the eastward 
(fair), with a smooth sea, and not a cloud to be seen, 
except on the distant horizon ahead, where a fog- 
bank hung as if in doubt whether to expand itself or 
sink altogether away from sight. Abeam of us lay 
the land, near enough to be seen, yet so wrapped in 
haze as to be imperfectly distinguished. The weather 
was unusually mild, I might say warm ; and I felt 
the heavy clothing I had lately worn too oppressive 
for me now. After breakfast it fell calm, and all 
the bedding was had up on deck and aired, the 
berths well cleansed and sweetened, and an additional 
scrubbing given to the forecastle and cabin. A 
great number of aquatic birds could be seen around 
us, and Captain Forsyth, being a good sportsman, 
soon brought down a few, which, however, we did 
not pick up when they fell. 

In the afternoon a breeze from the westward 
sprung up ; and several bottle-noses, as the men called 



68 VOTAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. . 

them (a species of whale, I believe, not unlike a 
grampus)y were observed playing about us. 

At six P. M. an amplitude of the sun was taken, 
which gave the variation of the compass 56** 36' W. 
This was in about 62° lat., 52° 15' loDg. 

About half an hour afterwards we passed a 
moderate-sized iceberg to the eastward of us. This 
was the first I had seen during the present voyage, 
the others having been observed during the night; 
but I was no novice to them, having fallen in with 
several once before off Cape Horn. It was, however, 
somewhat singular that we should have met with an 
iceberg here, in this precise spot, where Sir John Boss, 
in 1829 and at the same period of the year, also 
encountered one; and that similar to one he had 
formerly seen in the Isabella ten years before.* Our 
position this day wa«, throughout, very much the 
same as his in that year ; and, bound for the same 
place, we could not but read his thrilling and power- 
fully written narrative with a great deal of interest. 

Towards evening the breeze freshened from the 
westward, which, with beautiful smooth water, sent 
us along at about seven knots an hour; the best 
sailiug, taking all in all, we had yet experienced. 

Sunday 7 th. — Throughout this day fine steady 

* Vide Ros8*8 Second Voyage. 



LICHTENFELS. 69 

breezes from the S. W., with cloudy weather. 
Making a fine run of it in the twenty-four hours, 
the wind continuing fair. Three icebergs, one of 
them rather large, were passed during the day. 
Divine service was performed as usuaL 

At noon we were off Lichtenfelsy which was 
probably some seventy miles from us. Sir John Boss, 
too, was here on a Sunday in July (the 13th); only 
six days later, in 1829. 

Monday Sth. — At two A. M. next day the land 
was clearly seen, bearing east about forty miles. At 
six it was a most beautiful morning, at first calm, 
and then a light breeze from the northward. The 
sun was very warm, though the air felt cold. From 
aloft the land presented a very pretty appearance, 
showing itself like clustered groups of islets covered 
with ice and snow. 

During the morning we stood in towards the land, 
which was in the neighbourhood of Nikasoh; and at 
noon Pitie's Mount bore S. E. about fifty miles. At 
eight P. M. variation by azimuth was ascertained to 
be 62° 15' W., and at nine we sounded in seventy- 
eight fathoms, having a bottom of speckled sand, 
stone, and rock. Lat. 64° 41', long. 53° 34'. Re- 
mainder of the evening fine, clear, and calm. 

Tuesday 9th. — The morning of this day brought 
a great change of both wind and weather. It began 



60 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBEBT. 

to blow hard from the northward, with a short 
jumping sea, a very keen cold wind, and gloomy- 
weather. At ten, we had to shorten sail to in- 
creasing breezes ; but the sky having become more 
clear, enabled us to get a fine view of the magnificent 
mountains about Coquin Sound, which lay right 
ahead of us, as we stood to the north-east, on the 
larboard tack. One of these mountains was the 
celebrated Sukkertop (Sugar-loaf), which occasionally 
peeped out firom the dense clouds, which surrounded 
it, in all its bold and lofty grandeur. 

In the morning we passed three icebergs, one of 
them very large ; and at six p. M. saw another one 
to leeward of us. As the wind increased and sea 
began to rise, the ship was tacked to the westward, 
and stood off the land. The evening closed in with 
cold and disagreeable weather, rendered still more 
so, in appearance, by the now almost constant day- 
light through the whole twenty-four hours. 

Hitherto we had met no ice, except the few bergs 
mentioned; but it was necessary now to keep a 
sharp look-out for it, and consequently all hands 
were on the alert. 

Wednesday \Oth — This day the wind was fair, 
and proved a fine steady breeze from the south-west, 
running us rapidly past the land at seven or eight 
miles per hour. In the morning some sleet and 



WHALE FISH ISLANDS. 61 

snow fell ; but after noon the weather became much 
warmer. We were now preparing for calling at 
WhaJe Fish Islands, at which place it was hoped we 
should arrive on the following day, if the wind con- 
tinued the same. 

Our dinner this day was greatly improved by 
some cod-fishy that had been caught early in the 
morning, before the wind sprang up. It was ex- 
cellent eating ; and I believe the fish is considered of 
sufficient worth and goodness to have a few vessels 
from Scotland employed in catching and importing 
them. There is one particular place on this coast 
where they are said to be very numerous, and some 
small ships have made an excellent trade of it. 



62 



CHAP. VL 

TAKING THE FIRST ICE HEAVY GALES AND SNOWSTORMS. 

— DANGEROUS POSITION. — DISCS. — CURIOUS APPEARANCE 
OF THE LAND. — THE SOLITARY GRAVE. — MOSQUITOES. 
— NUMEROUS ICEBERGS. — AN ARCTIC MIDNIGHT. 

Thursday Wih, — DURING the past night we had the 
same strong and favourable breeze from the south- 
west ; and on the next morning it continued steady 
in that quarter, accompanied with thick hazy weather 
and rain. Several large icebergs were passed, and at 
eight A.M. we suddenly came upon a " stream"* of 
ice, extending from S. E. to N. W. We had come so 
quickly and unexpectedly upon this ** stream" (not 
having seen it, owing to the thick weather, until 
close aboard of it), that promptitude of decision and 
movement was absolutely necessary. It was one of 
those moments when the seaman comes forward, and 
by boldly acting, either in the one way or the other, 
shows what he is made of. In the present case the 
question instantly arose as to whether the vessel 

* A *' stream " is an oblong collection of drifl ice, the pieces 
of which are continuous. 



DAKGEBOUS POSITION. 63 

eboiild at once run through the ice now before her, 
or wait until clearer and milder weather came. It 
will be unnecessary to explain at length how the 
former or the latter might have proved best or worst : 
but suffice it that with the wind blowing dead upon 
the " stream," and a sea rising, to keep it under our 
lee, that is with ourselves between the wind and it, it 
would have been highly imprudent when there was a 
fair possibility of getting through it safely. The mate, 
as ice-master, was asked by the captain which, in his 
opinion, was best. He advised heaving to, to wind-' 
toard of ity and waiting. The second mate was then 
asked ; and he, without knowing the other's opinion, 
strongly urged the necessity of running through 
at once. Now here were two opinions in direct 
opposition; which of these was the best to follow? 
Captain Forsyth, using his own judgment, very 
wisely decided upon the latter, and accordingly run 
the ship on. And a pretty sight, too, it was, as the 
" Prince Albert," under easy and working sail, in a 
moment or two more entered the intricate channels 
that were presented to her between numerous bergs 
and pieces of ice, rough and smooth, large and small, 
new and old, dark and white. As I have stated, it 
was hazy weather, snowing and raining at the time ; 
and all hands having been summoned on deck, were 
wrapped in their oil-skin dresses and waterproof 



64 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBEBT. 

overcoats. Standing on the topsail-yard was the 
second mate conning the ship; half-way up the 
weather rigging clung the captain, watching and 
directing as necessary; while aft, on the raised counter 
near the wheel, stood the chief mate telling the 
helmsman how to steer. 

This being the first ice in any large and con- 
tinuous quantity that we had met, I looked at it 
with some curiosity. The moment we had entered 
within the outer edge of the stream the water became 
as smooth as a common pond on shore ; and it was 
positively a pretty sight to see that little vessel 
dodging in and out and threading her way among 
the numerous pieces of ice that beset her proper and 
direct course. The ice itself presented a most 
beautiful appearance both in colour and form, being 
variegated in every direction. We were soon in the 
very thick of it ; and before five minutes had elapsed 
from our first taking it we could see no apparent 
means of either going on or retracing our steps. 
But it was well managed, and after about an hour's 
turning hither and thither, this way and that way, 
straight and crooked, we got fairly through, and 
found clear water beyond. 

We then hauled up for the land about Whale Fish 
Islands ; finding, by our dead reckoning at noon, that 
we had got too far to the westward. This brought 



HUBBICAKE AND SNOWSTORMS. 65 

US unfortunately on a wind ; and^ as it was blowing 
hard^ we had to shorten sail. 

In the afternoon the wind increased greatly ; and 
at last we were obliged again to heave to. Fortunate 
was it, however, that we were to leeward of the ice 
instead of being on the other side, else we might 
have drifted right down upon some of it, and have 
been much injured. 

Thursday Wth. — Throughout the night the wind 
blew a complete hurricane, and the short high sea 
was perfectly furious ; lashing about in all directions 
with the madness of a maelstrom, and with a 
violence that, apparently, nothing could resist. 
Heavy squalls, with sharp sleet and snowstorms 
from the southward, added to the fearful tempest 
that was raging. It was impossible to see three miles 
ahead, the weather being so thick. Occasionally 
an iceberg would dart out through the mist, heaving 
its huge body up and down in frightful motion, 
now advancing, next receding, and again approaching 
with anything but pleasant proximity. Our little 
vessel, however, as usual, stood it well. Could we 
have divested ourselves of the reality of the scene, 
it might have been likened to a fancy picture, in 
which some strange and curious dance was being 
represented between the sea, the ice, and the ship ; 
the latter, by the aid of the former, gallantly lifting 



66 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

herself to, and then declining from the other. But 
it was too real ; and the greater danger of the land 
being possibly near, was too strongly impressed upon 
our minds, to allow any visionary feeling to possess 
us at the time. It was the worst and most dan- 
gerous night we had yet had, and hardly a man on 
board rested quietly below until the height of it was 
past. No undue timidity, however, was evinced; 
but there Is a point beyond which boldness be- 
comes mere rash and absurd folly. That point was 
attained on this particular night ; and wisely, most 
wisely, making for the land, as we were, was the 
vessel made snug and hove to. I was on deck all 
the time, with the exception of about three hours ; 
and Captain Forsyth only lay down for an hour. 

At midnight it was rather more clear, with a lull 
in the wind. To determine our precise position, a 
little sail was made ; and we stood in for the land, 
passing a number of large icebergs. At two A. M. 
(Fridayl2th), however, the wind increased again, and 
the weather became more thick. At this moment 
land was seen on our lee-bow, though at suflScient 
distance to give us, if need be, room to wear. The 
land, now discovered, was very high, dark and bold ; 
and from its appearance we concluded it to be the 
Island of Disco. We continued on towards it, 
drifting more than sailing, as the vessel was kept 



HEAVY GALE. 67 

well jammed up in the wind ; but at five o'clock the 
gale was found to be yet increasing; and accord- 
ingly the ship was wore oft shore to the N, W. with 
sail again reduced ; and at eight A. M.^ for the 
second time during the past twenty-four hours, 
hove ta 

About ten, a tremendous sea came rolling on 
towards us. We had hoped to have seen it pass, as 
all the others did, quietly under our keel ; but it was 
not so. Owing to the furious lashing of the waters 
here, and, I imagine, the vast number of icebergs 
around, which caused a sort of eddy or counter swell, 
it broke short oft*, topping over our bows and de- 
luging the deck fore and aft as we had never expe- 
rienced before. Fortunately nothing was swept 
away ; and, beyond a more than usual tremulous 
motion that was imparted to the ship, no other notice 
of it was discernible. No vessel could behave better 
than the " Prince Albert " did. 

In the afternoon it snowed very hard ; the gale 

continuing ; while we, ourselves, were all busy in 

keeping the ship clear of the bergs, by making and 

shortening sail as required, being obliged to run either 

by, or away from them. At six p. m. it was somewhat 

moije moderate, and we again stood in for the land. 

At half-past eight, we sighted it through the thick 

r 2 



68 VOYAGE OF THE PEINCE ALBERT. 

haze and rain, which now began to descend. The 
wind was evidently falling, though still blowing hard ; 
but the weather was excessively cold, and at intervals, 
when the rain ceased, it snowed very fast. At ten p.m. 
we were sufficiently near the shore to examine it well, 
and see about our right position. That it was either 
the Island of Disco, or somewhere a little to the 
south of Cape Chidleigh, was quite evident ; and it 
became a matter of anxiety to ascertain which of the 
two it would prove. The latter, according to the 
description of the men, was a moderately high head- 
land with a low projecting point ; and, therefore, after 
passing it, a channel of water ought to have been 
seen ; on the other side of which was Whale Fish 
Island. But, here, we could perceive nothing like it ; 
although our dead reckoning, as carefully worked as 
could be, set us down exactly in its latitude. If then 
this was Disco, we must have been driven far to 
leeward ; and, consequently, with the wind in its 
present position, and blowing as it did, we should be 
quite unable to work in for the harbour. I was fre- 
quently aloft, prying earnestly into the dark fiord * 
that opened out ahead of us, and bitterly cold did I 

* I have since suspected it was Lively Bay we were off at 
this time, from the similarity of the opening before us to* that 
place, as described on the chart. 



PROGRESS NORTHWARDS. 69 

feel there ; but it was soon found, from a continuation 
of the land, that we must either make more northings 
or go back southward for Whale Fish Island. 

Having nothing else to depend upon but the dead 
reckoning. Captain Forsyth determined, at half-past 
ten, to bear up on his proper course to the north, 
under gentle sail. Accordingly, we were soon running 
along the land at a more rapid rate and with 
pleasanter motion, all the time anxiously looking 
out to see if Cape Chidleigh would present itself; but 
no Cape Chidleigh came before our earnest 'gaze. 
Several prominent points of land, as they severally 
shot out from the thick haze ahead, gave hopes that 
we had got to the desired spot at last ; but, upon 
Hearing sufficiently, we could perceive others running 
away beyond them ; and thus proving that neither 
could be the right one. Both Captain Forsyth and 
myself remained on deck, fortifying ourselves, as we 
best could, against the pitiless wind, snow, rain, and 
biting cold ; but though there was enough of dreari- 
ness in the noonday-midnight look, yet there was^ 
also, somewhat in the aspect of nature ashore to 
compensate for alL 

The mountains upon our right were covered 
with snow ; their lofty pinnacles, like needles, cut- 
ting through the dense clouds aroimd, and appear- 
ing like the tapering spires of so many cathedrals. 

7 3 



70 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

At times, these mountains were enveloped in a 
thick haze; then again looming through, and pre- 
senting the most curious and fantastic forms, pyra- 
mids upon pyramids displaying their sides to our 
view. The valleys, what little of them could be 
seen, appeared to be filled with snow; yet neither 
these, nor any portion of the land, seemed to convey 
the idea of our being in an icy and barren re^on. 
It was more like a misty picture produced upon the 
stage of a theatre than a semblance of reality. To 
the west, however, where the heaving sea dashed 
high and furiously upon the now restless bergs, 
one could well believe that he was in no other place 
but the threshold of the frozen zone. 

About three a. m., with considerably less wind, and 
clearer weather, the vessel was left in charge of the 
proper officer of the watch, with orders to keep 
a bright look out, and stand gently on; and we then 
went below to get some rest. 

Thenceforward the wind died away ; the gale was 
hushed, the storm gone ; and cold, and rain, and snow 
alike disappeared ; giving place to a change as sudden 
as it was, for present relief, truly delightful. At 
seven A. M. it was quite calm, with fine clear weather, 
and a brilliant sun shining in all its vigorous warmth 
upon us. The sea had gone down; and the little 
" Prince," with all her sail set, was drying her 



THE SOLITARY GRAVE. 71 

canvass, and lazily lifting her hull to a gentle swell, 
in an open bay on the western coast of Disco. 

When I went on deck at eight, it seemed like 
another transformation in a scenic representation at 
some large temple of the Drama. I could hardly 
believe myself awake, so great was the change from 
the time when, only five hours before, I had gone 
below. We were lying near an anchorage ; and our 
boat, I found, had gone ashore to get some water. I 
was vexed that I had not been called at the time by 
the officer on deck, so that I could have accompanied 
her ; but he, supposing I more needed rest than boat- 
work, allowed me to sleep on. 

The mountains, I now noticed, were much more 
free from snow than they appeared to be on the pre- 
vious night ; and from this, I augured, as I had read 
somewhere, an open season. When the boat returned, 
I was informed that they had discovered an Euro- 
pean's grave on shore, with an inscription on the 
rough wooden tablet at its head. This inscription 
stated that " John Hunter of Shetland, . late of the 
Joseph Greeny whaler, of Peterhead, was buried 
there in August 1847 ;" and, from what I afterwards 
learned, it appears that he had died of some sort of 
fever, while the vessel being unable to get through 
Melville Bay that year, was returning with the inten- 
tion of trying the southern passage. It was, indeed, 

r 4 



72 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

a lone and solitary spot, in some of the wildest and 
most majestic scenes of nature. Our men, with the 
true feeling of sailors, replaced the board with the 
inscription, which had been blown down; and, writing 
upon it that fact, and the name of our vessel, date, 
&c., with a species of red chalk that was picked up 
there, voluntarily paid the poor fellow the humble 
tribute of a wish for the repose of his soul, and then 
left him again to his solitude. Peace be with him ! 

A quantity of mosquitoes, I was told, was met 
with on shore ; thus proving, as Sir John Ross in 
his Second Voyage observes, that these mischievous 
and annoying insects are not indigenous to warm 
climates only. Several flowers, and some good moss 
and grass were also seen and gathered. I have, 
unfortunately, lost the few specimens brought on 
board for me ; and have nothing remaining of Disco, 
except some of the moss gathered from the head of 
the grave. 

At eight a breeze sprang up, fair for us ; and we 
were soon standing on, though very slowly, towards 
the northward. At noon it was again calm, with 
exceedingly clear, and beautiful warm weather. By 
observation of the sun we found our latitude to be 
70° 12'; which, with our positive position, determined 
from the bearings of the land now seen in minute 
distinctness, proved that we had been set, or drifted 



NUMEROUS ICEBERGS. IS 

to the northward, since our last observation, at the 
rate of one mile per houi^. 

In the afternoon I counted more than a hundred 
icebergs ; but no field or stream ice could be seen. 
In the western horizon, too, there was evidently, 
as the mate said, a water shy ; though it was im- 
possible to say how far we might actually find a 
clear sea in that direction if we went there. Cap- 
tain Forsyth, however, intended at that time, I 
believe, to have tried across from Upernavick, fol- 
lowing as near as possible in the track of Sir John 
Koss in 1829; and, if I might venture an opinion 
here, I think we should have been able to have 
effected it as soon or sooner than we did by going 
through that intolerable place Melville Bay. But 
some information that was imparted to us, as will be 
presently seen, altered any such determination, and 
we pursued our way direct to the northward. 

I may here observe, by way of explanation, that 
the main body of ice extends, in general, from 
the east coast at Melville Bay, south-west down 
Baffin's Bay and Davis's Straits to the west coast, 
where it joins the land ice there, and rarely leaves 
it until late in the season. Vessels, therefore, 
bound to the N. W. coast, or Lancaster Sound, 
must either penetrate through this " Middle Pack," 
as it is called, which is a very dangerous task, 



74 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

or else try to work through the passages which 
are, almost always, save in bad years, found in 
Melville Bay. A reference to the map will point 
out the difference of the two tracks as to length, 
&c.; but it frequently occurs that there are breaks 
in the middle ice of many miles in extent, and wheu 
such is the case a vessel can make a speedier and 
safer passage by taking that route. In 1829 
Sir John Ross found it so, and had a speedy run 
across from the east coast to Lancaster Sound in 
only four days. 

The evening of this day was so beautiful that I 
could not think of retiring below, even after the usual 
hour of so doing had long passed. At midnight the 
sky was without a cloud, and not a breath of wind 
dbturbed the glassy surface of the now peaceful sea ; 
and, for the first time in my life, I beheld the sun 
above the horizon clear and brilliant, and of a more 
beautiful lustre, to my fancy, than it presented at 
any other period. For the novelty of the thing, I 
took an altitude at the moment of his passing the 
meridian below the pole. The height was 3° 12' 
above the horizon, and from that I computed our 
latitude to be 70° 18'; which I judged to be very 
nearly if not quite correct. 

I remained on deck some time after this, watching 



AN ARCTIC MIDNIGHT. 75 

the sun in his course,] and enjoying the holy tran- 
quillity that reigned around. 

It was now the commencement of another Sabbath 
mom ; Sunday 14th. All nature appeared calmed, 
and buried in a gentle sleep ; nor man nor beast 
seemed to possess anything of life. Every one on 
board except myself, — for the helmsman listlessly re- 
clined at his post, and the officer of the watch was 
dozing over the ship's side, — had laid themselves 
down to rest below or to slumber on deck ready for a 
call if wanted ; and I, therefore, remained alone to 
enjoy that heavenly and most splendid scene; to 
commune with myself, and to thank Him who, but 
yesterday, was raging in the storm, and now ap- 
peared to smile softly in so sweet a midnight calm. 

To the S. E. of us rose the bold and lofty 
mountains of Disco, and the land about Merchant's 
Bay in the Waygat ; nearer, was Hare Island ; and 
further on, beyond it, could be faintly seen the dark 
coast in the neighbourhood of Cape Cranstown. 
Icebergs, innumerable, lay in a state of the greatest 
repose, and added by their singidar shapes and 
various sizes to the beauty of the entire picture. 

After I had gloated myself with the enjoyment of 
so exquisite a scene, I went below to my cabin, and 
entered the notes in my Diary which I am now tran- 
scribing. I then, at one A. M., also retired to rest. 



76 



CHAP. VIL 

THICK FOG. — GUTTA PERCHA BOAT. — WATERING FROM 

AN ICEBERG. — THE " TRUELOVE." MIDNIGHT VISITS. 

STATE OF THE ICE. UPERNAVICK AND THE WOMAN 

ISLANDS. SOLITUDE. TURNING OF AN ICEBERG. 

ESQUIMAUX. — DESPATCHES FOR ENGLAND. 

When I again went on deck, at seven, I found we 
had a very thick fog, and light airs from the east- 
ward. 

At half-past ten all hands were mustered, and 
divine service performed on deck, so mild was the 
weather, or, perhaps, so well had we now become 
accustomed to the temperature. Every man was in 
the enjoyment of excellent health and spirits ; and, 
hitherto, all things had gone on well. 

In the afternoon it was fine and calm. At four, I 
was sent in charge of the gutta percha boat to some 
icebergs, to get a fresh supply of water. It was the 
first time we had tried this boat ; and we found her 
to pull as light as we could wish, promising to 
answer admirably. The whole of us scrambled on to 
the top of the lowest and most level berg, but which, 
however, was rugged and irregular enough to cause 



WATERING FROM AN ICEBERG, 77 

US to take care that we did not get tripped, and come 
down by the run. 

After returning from one iceberg, we pulled away 
to a second at some further distance off. We found 
it to be in a state of decay ; and, even while in its 
vicinity, heard several reports, which warned us not 
to keep stationary too near it, as it was evidently 
not far from bursting. Several fragments had already 
broken away from it, and innumerable small pieces 
were scattered about in every direction around. As 
we found no very clear stream of running water on 
the berg, we took some of the best of these fragments 
(to be afterwards melted), into the boat, filling her 
pretty deep. 

At eight P. M., Four Island Point was to the S.E., 
and Black Hook to the N. To the eastward, a con- 
tinuity of land was also clearly seen. 

Monday I5th. — All this day we had light winds 
and calms, with fine weather, a warm air, and smooth 
water. Stores and provisions suflScient for ten weeks' 
consumption were got up from the main hold, and 
placed in the store-room abaft. As the superintend- 
ence of this and the distribution of them was one of 
my peculiar duties, it necessarily required much per- 
sonal labour on my part. There is an old saying, and 
I am sure a very just one, to the effect, that if you 
want a thing done welly you had better do it your- 



78 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

self; and I have, — especially on board the "Prince 
Albert/' and more particularly in my own cabin, in- 
variably carried out the maxim when I could. Thus 
my day's work on this date was by no means light, 
and by the evening I had had nearly enough. At six 
p. M. the winter clothing, of which a supply had been 
sent on board for the men, was served out to such of 
them as required any. Tobacco was, also, given 
them in like manner. 

At quarter-past ten we observed two vessels (a 
barque and ja, brig) in sight to the N.W., both of 
them apparently in company on a wind, and standing 
to the westward. As these were the first strangers 
we had seen since leaving home, they became of in- 
creased interest to us, and more especially now, when 
we felt anxious to ascertain about the ice. Hitherto 
we had known nothing but what we ourselves had 
found ; now, however, there was a probability of our 
gleaning some intelligence ; for the strangers were 
instantly set down by the men as whalers, returning 
to the southward ; which they actually proved to be. 
Captain Forsyth determined to communicate with 
them, and, ordering a stout crew into the boat, started 
away immediately, I accompanying him. We had a 
long pull of it, in consequence of the strangers not at 
first perceiving us, but we ultimately got alongside of 
the barque at half-past twelve. To our delight and 



THE ^^TRUELOVE." 79 

surprise^ we found her to be the " Truelove," Mr, 
Parker, of Hull ; and her consort was the " Anna," 
Mr. Wells, of Hull ; both bound to the south edge of 
the ice, to round it in search of whales on the west 
land. 

We were received in the most hearty and hos- 
pitable manner by Captain Parker, who presented 
the tout ensemble of a bluff and honest-hearted sailor. 
Frank and lively, he seemed not to know how to 
make enough of us, or to give us suflScient plea- 
sure, in otir visit to him. Though it was past mid- 
night, yet aU sorts of nautical refreshments were 
laid before us : bottled beer, sherry, ham, and some 
excellent cheese, &c. Hour after hour passed away 
in pleasing and animated conversation, while the 
vessels were edging away towards the "Prince 
Albert." Captain Wells had also joined us. Though 
Captain Parker was, personally, unknown to me 
before ; yet, both himself and ship were familiar ac- 
quaintances, owing to the frequent mention of them 
in the various parliamentary papers, &c., relating to 
the Arctic Seas. It was, therefore, with much satis- 
faction that I was enabled to shake hands with so 
daring a whaler, and that, too, on board his own 
vesseL But business was not forgotten, nor the 
object of our communicating with him. We gathered 
from him several particulars relating to the state of 



80 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

the ice, and position of the various ships employed in 
the search for Sir John Franklin. The appearance 
and position of Sanderson's Hope, Upernavick, &c., 
was given to us; but the substance of his entire 
information will be better stated as follows : — 

*^ He had been six weeks going from Dark Head 
(about our present position) to the Devil's Thumb, the 
ice being so very thick and difficult to get through. 
To the westward of us there was an impenetrable 
pack, extending far to the N. E and S.W. On 
Tuesday, the 9th, he had been in company with 
Captain Austin and his expedition, and Mr. Penny 
and his two vessels. Both parties all welL On 
Thursday, the 11th, while near the same spot 
(Devil's Thumb), he saw the two Americans in the 
pack to the N. N. W. On Sunday, the 14th, he had 
spoken Sir John Boss, off Upernavick : all well. The 
ice was unusually heavy in Melville Bay this year, 
but he had no doubt we should be able to get through, 
though it might be rather late ; and he expected all 
the other whalers would have to do as he and 
Captain Wells had done ; namely, bear up for the 
southward." 

Tuesday \%th. — At four A.M. the three vessels 
were close to each other, and accordingly we returned 
to our own ship, bringing with us the two whaling 
masters, who expressed surprise at our diminutive 



UPERNAVICK. 81 

fiize, yet felt great confidence in her being exactly 
suited for the purpose. Captain Parker would insist 
upon our having ^ovae fresh beef and a leg of mutton, 
preserved from last March, when he had left Hull 
(our own fresh beef having been long consumed, and 
some rendered unfit by the greater heat of the wea- 
ther on the passage across). This we relished as 
well as any meat kept in that way can be said to be 
relished. He also sent a fine ham on board. He 
told us about the provbions on Cape Hay, which 
he had left there in 1849, and described how we 
should find them; and then, at five o'clock, they 
both returned to their own ships, while I most gladly 
went below to my cabin. The news we had thus 
received imparted fresh life to us ; and the hope of 
soon getting up with the other discovery ships ani- 
mated every man greatly. 

The following eighteen hours we were beating up, 
with moderate winds and pleasant weather, towards 
Upemavick. 

The next day, Wednesday 17th, at five a.m. 
I was called by the mate, who stated we were 
off the Woman Islands, and, consequently, close 
upon the settlement of Upemavick. When I went 
on deck, however, I found that he was mistaken, as 
wafi evident by the same headland pointed out to us 
as Sanderson's Hope being still to windward ot us ; 

G 



82 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

and we were, consequently, only off Proven Island. 
The weather was beautiful and clear, with a moderate 
breeze; and we continued all day working up, in short 
tacks, towards Upemavick. Occasionally we neared 
the land so close as to discover its exceedingly barren 
and iron-looking appearance. I was told that a great 
quantity of ducks' eggs could be obtained on one of 
the small islands belonging to the group nearest us, 
but I should imagine they were not very pleasant 
eating. At about five p.m. we rounded Sanderson's 
Hope, and the weather becoming more thick and likely 
to change, as well as the wind dying away, it was 
thought advisable to send the boat off to the settle- 
ment with our despatches and letters for England, 
instead of risking the ship by placing her too near 
among the islands with the probability of a bad night 
approaching. Accordingly the gutta percha boat 
was lowered, and I was directed to proceed in her 
towards the settlement up the inlet in which our 
vessel had hove to. It was about six P. M. when 
I departed ; and soon afterwards the wind died away, 
and a thick mizzling rain came on, which speedily 
caused me to lose sight of the vessel. She had 
rounded the " Hope," close in, standing off and on 
about a remarkable "rookery" of rotzes that was 
seen on the cliffs under this high headland ; and it 
was a part of my instructions to return to the same 
place, where the vessel was to await me. 



ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 83 

The inlet up which I was proceeding seenied like 
an exceedingly deep and narrow fiord, bounded on 
the one side, to the south, by very lofty and almost 
perpendicular cliffs, more like large rocky mountains 
severed in twain, with the one half alone left remain- 
ing, than aught else ; and on the other, to the north, 
by a stony and barren island, rugged and uneven, 
but not very high. At the apparent termination of 
the inlet ahead of us, dark, frowning, mountainous 
rocks arose perpendicularly from the water. These 
rocky mountains were of an enormous size and height, 
and appeared very much as though formed of one 
solid mass of ironstone, with the surface looking as if 
planed smooth under the hands of a skilful craftsman. 
Numerous small inlets ran between similar lofty 
precipices ; and the narrow ravines which opened to 
view as we proceeded, seemed literally the entrance 
to Tartarus. Avalanches of snow occasionally fell 
with fearful force, and a noise that, in the otherwise 
solemn stillness, seemed terrific. These falls of 
snow speedily formed themselves into "bergs," as 
was witnessed both on our going and returning. 
Glaciers, also, descended to the water's edge from the 
highest summit; while along the various narrow 
valleys were immense bodies of snow heaped up in 
piles, or formed into extensive beds. 

Soon after we left the vessel a remarkable stone, or 

G 2 



84 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

heap of stones, very much like a man stooping, with a 
broad Scotch cap on his head, was observed upon the 
low island on our left. Thinking it might be some 
mark to denote the entrance, I landed to examine it, 
but found nothing more than that the stones had ap- 
parently formed themselves into that singular shape. 
As we proceeded up the dark and gloomy channel — 
to which our men gave the name of " Gutta Percha 
Inlet," from our boat being the first of the kind, pro- 
bably, that ever was on its waters — a name that will, 
likely enough, now be retained by whalers, — there 
seemed to be no end of the frowning precipices that 
rose to a great height on our right. 

After pulling for about five miles, and still per- 
ceiving nothing like a settlement, I was placed in 
much doubt which, of several passages now present- 
ing themselves, I ought to take. I strained my eyes 
through the glass in vain ; everywhere the same 
dark, solitary picture was presented to me ; nothing 
could be seen save the iron-bound rocks, black as the 
deepest night, and the flocks of rotges hovering about 
them. We had shut out the ship from view, and 
the rain was coming on in a thick mist. I did not 
wish to turn back without accomplishing my mission, 
and getting our letters in the hands of some one who 
would forward them to England ; and, after reflect- 
ing for a moment, I considered that by keeping the 



ESQUIMAUX HUT. 85 

channel nearest the sea we should certainly not 
run any risk of losing ourselves, as might very 
well have been the case otherwise, among the nu- 
merous gullies and inlets abounding throughout the 
whole of the Woman Islands. The settlement, 
too, I thought must be anywhere but far in among 
them. Accordingly, I took the most westerly pas- 
sage, and, after a pull of about three miles more, we 
came in sight of an Esquimaux hut, on a low, mossy 
point of land. As it was very likely some of the 
natives might be there, or not far off, we first gave 
the usual signal, by calling out " Chiamd,^^ and then, 
springing to land, hauled the boat ashore. No answer 
was returned, and we therefore entered the hut. It 
was quite deserted ; but several fragments of narwahl 
and bears' bones, &c., were lying about in the neigh- 
bourhood, proving, as the men said, on examining 
them, that some of the " Huskies " had been there 
not long before. *^ Chiamo " was again repeated with- 
out avail, and I then turned to an inspection of the 
but itself. As this was the first I had ever seen, it 
naturally excited my curiosity ; but I must confess 
that none but a person very curious on the subject 
need wish to enter such a one a second time. My 
olfactory nerves were most sensibly affected ; and I 
was glad to take a hasty look within, and then get out* 

side to the pure air again. The hut itself was, appa* 

o 3 



86 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

rently, of the rudest kind, though, as I was informed, 
much better than many that the men had often 
visited in other places. It was, in form, like a 
square mud kennel, or pigsty, to which it bore a 
very near approach in all its other features, the pig- 
sty being, in my opinion, in many respects superior. 
Inside of the hut a wooden mallet was found, upon 
which was branded *^ Alfred, No. 6.*' This had evi- 
dently belonged to some whaler ; and, upon inquiry, 
I found that a vessel of that name had been wrecked 
in these parts some two or three years before. 

There was some fine mould here, and a bucketful 
was put into the boat for the purpose of thereafter 
raising some mustard and cress. Plenty of moss 
and long grass were perceptible ; but I could spare 
no time for more than the cursory examination I had 
made, and, accordingly, the boat was again launched, 
and we proceeded as before. The sight of the hut 
led us to believe that the settlement was, perhaps, 
round a point that appeared ahead of us ; but, on 
arriving at it, nothing was to be seen. I should 
now have returned, but here the channel, which we 
had been following, was found to open into a broad 
expanse of water, bounded on all sides by numerous 
islands. Several icebergs, aground 'and afloat, were 
seen ; and, to the westward, I noticed a broad pas- 
sage, which, turning in an angular manner, gave a 



SOLITUDE. 87 

ready exit for a vessel of any size to the sea. Ahead 
of us^ to all appearance at no great distance, I ob- 
served an island, upon which, in the thick haze, we 
all thought rudely-built dwellings were visible. To 
it, therefore, we immediately pulled ; but found our- 
selves deceived, not only as to distance, but also as 
to the fancied settlement. After an hour's good 
pull, we had neared the rocky shore sufficiently to 
perceive nothing thereon except a few stunted twigs 
and some moss. Numbers of icebergs and detached 
pieces were around and about it; and the wild sea- 
bird appeared, besides ourselves, the only living 
thing to be met with there. As it was now half-past 
ten, and the men had had a long pull, I deemed it 
prudent to rest awhile, and let them have some re- 
freshment ; a supply of bread and meat, with spirits 
and water, having been brought with us for the pur- 
pose. The boat was accordingly steered into a small 
cove in the island, and secured there. Snatching a 
hasty mouthful myself, I jumped on shore for the 
purpose of ascending a hill which rose just before me, 
to get a look around. The ground, or rather rock, 
on which I trod was of a rugged, dark character. 
Here and there a few spots presenting more agreeable 
features were visible, and a hollow, containing a pool 
of water, was occasionally passed. Now and then 
some moss and soft mould would come to view, 

o 4 



88 VOYAGE OF THE PEINCE ALBERT. 

and, at times, some straggling plants. Exclasiye of 
this, aU was bleak and dreaiy; probably rendered 
still more so in appearance by the small snow- 
like rain, that came steadily down, and the unusual 
stillness that seemed to pervade all nature around. 
Arrived at the summit, I gazed in every direction^ 
with a hope of getting a sight of the settlement, or 
of some animate thing besides myself and my com- 
panions. Nothing was presented to my view but 
the same endless line of rugged mountain scenery, — 
now clothed in a dark mantle of grey, as the snow 
began to fall upon the brown surface of the rock, — 
and the valleys choked with the accumulation of 
preceding winters, and not yet cleared of their 
incumbrance. I seemed more alone there than 
I remember feeling at any other place since. It 
appeared the very extreme of solitude. Par away 
stretched the untrodden hills; their lofty peaks 
covered from the gaze of man by unmense bodies of 
snow. Deep and winding glided the now silent 
waters, darting into recesses, and laving the base of 
mountains whither none of human form had probably 
ventured. Enormous blocks of ice, — worn, them- 
selves, with age and the constant fretting of the sea, 
— reposed in striking quiet and isolation ; the mur- 
murs of the pent-up wind in their wondrous caverns, 
and the sullen wash of the tidal wave upon their base 



TURNING OF AN ICEBEBG. 89 

alone being faintly audible. Kot a sound of aught 
beside came upon my ear. And thus I stood^ and 
gazed ; alone upon that almost unknown spot ; thick 
mists> and threatening shadows of the nighty and 
tempest-boding weather falling fast around me ; and 
my mind involuntaiily wandering here, there, every- 
where ; but mostly, as if in contrast, to a spot where 
all that earth held dear to me existed. 

I was dreaming then; but I was speedily 
awakened to reality by a sudden noise like the crack- 
ing of some mighty edifice of stone, or the bursting 
of several pieces of ordnance. Ere the sound of 
that noise had vibrated on the air, a succession of 
reports like the continued discharge of a heavy 
fire of musketry, interspersed with the occasional 
roar of cannon, followed quickly upon one another, 
for the space of perhaps two minutes; when, sud- 
denly, my eye was arrested by the oscillation of a 
moderate-sized iceberg not far beneath my feet, in 
a line away from the hill I was upon ; and the next 
moment it tottered, and, with a sidelong inclination, 
cut its way into the bosom of the sea upon which it 
had before been reclining. Koar upon roar pealed 
in echoes from the mountain heights on every side : 
the wild sea-bird arose with fluttering wings and 
rapid flight as it proceeded to a quarter where its 
quiet would be less disturbed ; the heretofore peace- 



90 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

ful water presented the appearance of a troubled 
ocean after a fierce gale of wind ; and, amid the 
varied sounds now heard, human voices from the 
boat came rising up on high in honest English — 
strangely striking on the ear — hailing to know if I 
had seen the '^ turn," and also whether I wanted them 
to join me. But an instant had not passed before 
the mighty mass of snow and ice which had so sud- 
denly overturned, again presented itself above the 
water. This time, however, it bore a different shape. 
The conical and rotten surface that had been up- 
permost, when I had first noticed it, was gone, and 
a smooth table-like plane, from which streamed 
numerous cascades and jets d^eau^ was now visible. 
The former had sunk some hundred feet below, 
when the "berg," reversing itself, had been over- 
turned by its extreme upper weight, and thus 
brought the bottom of it high above the level of 
the sea. 

Looking at my watch, and perceiving that suf- 
ficient time had been given for the men recruiting 
themselves before a long pull back was begun, I 
was about descending to join them, when I heard 
another sound, giving to the air a sharp concussion, 
not unlike the first noise of an iceberg cracking. 
Any experienced person, however, was able to detect 
something between the two reports which told hina 



RETURN TO THE SHIP. 91 

they had different causes ; and I at once felt satisfied 
that it was a gun fired from our ship, as a recall, which 
I had heard. We must have been at least fifteen miles 
distant from the point whence we had started ; but 
whether the '* Prince Albert" was where we had left 
her or not, still the fact of her having fired a gun was 
evident, and I hurried down to the boat. The men 
had heard the same report; and I, therefore, gave 
orders to return immediately. We had hardly left 
the shore when we heard another signal-gun, and I 
concluded by this that Captain Forsyth was getting 
anxious about us ; especially as the weather was thick 
and rainy, with, occasionally, small snow. There was 
very little wind ; but the boat's sail was tried upon 
her, answering, however, to little purpose, as the faint 
airs that played upon the water were very variable. 
It was a pull, therefore, and a long pull, the whole 
way. I wished very much to have passed through the 
channel I have before alluded to as leading broadly 
out to sea, but my orders were to return by the way 
we had gone. And a most miserable, fatiguing, 
dreary long way it was. It seemed never to have 
an end. A tide, or something, must evidently have 
been against us — at least we all fancied so, — and 
once some fragments of ice had collected together 
off a point of land, and gave us a little extra labour 
to get through. It rained, or snowed like rain. 



92 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

the whole way ; and the night, though all daylight^ 
was yet of that kind of light which is neither 
the one thing nor the other. Fortunately, I had 
put on my waterproof over-coat and sou'wester 
when I left the vessel ; but the men soon got wet 
through, despite their thick pea-coats. At last, to 
our great joy, the rookery cliff and extreme point 
of Sanderson's Hope again came in sight as we 
pulled sharply back along the newly named Gutta 
Percha Inlet; but, the vessel was not seen. Con- 
ceiving that she might have edged off a little on 
account of the thickness of the weather, I, at first, 
thought nothing of it ; until, rounding the flat 
island which formed the north side of the inlet, we 
beheld her, to our extreme amazement and vexation, 
standing away under all sail on her proper course to 
the northward ! and some distance from us ! Taking 
advantage of a "flaw" from the land, I caused the 
sail to be hoisted again, as much for a signal as for the 
slight advantage it would be to us in propelling the 
boat. No notice, however, was taken ; and, I, there- 
fore, tried what effect the report of a musket would 
have, as we were to windward. I fired the one we 
had in the boat ; and, soon afterwards, on our getting 
nearer, heard a similar signal in return; but still 
they did not heave to for us. I could not understand 
it ; though I afterwards was informed my musket was 



ESQUIMAUX. 93 

not heard. However, we had nothing for it but to 
pull, and at it we went again. In another half-hour, 
it appears, we were seen, and the vessel rounding to, 
we soon afterwards got on board. As we neared the 
ship several native kayachs (canoes) were observed, 
and we concluded by this that some of the natives 
were on board. This we found to be the case ; and 
for the first time I saw a native Greenlander of the 
Esquimaux race. 

Before I gave in my report to Captain Forsyth, 
he informed me that, soon after my departure, a 
boat had come off from the shore, and Mr. Horlick, 
the Danish government inspector of the Greenland 
provinces, had come on board. From this gentleman 
it was ascertained that the settlement did not lie up 
the inlet at all, but on the S. W. point of the second 
island from Sanderson^s Hope, bearing from it about 
N.N.E. (true) some five or six miles » He also in- 
formed the commander that a Danish brig was lying 
in a cove behind the settlement, and was to sail for 
Copenhagen on the day following the next. He, 
himself, was proceeding to Denmark in her, and 
would take charge of our letters, if they were given 
to one of the natives whom he would leave behind to 
receive them upon my return. He then departed 
about midnight. 

I had not the pleasure of seeing Mr. Horlick, 



94 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

which I very much regretted, as I have since under- 
stood that h(B was, not only gentlemanly and most 
obliging in his manner to all strangers, but that he 
also possessed much information on all those sub- 
jects connected with this part of the world, with 
which I wished to become acquainted. 

I found that the native, left on board, was a sort 
of pilot for such vessels as might stand in need of 
one. He spoke a word or two of broken English, 
and seemed very anxious to have his services en- 
gaged. The manner in which these people have to 
get on board of a vessel is very singular. Fastened 
in their canoe, they cannot, or will not, leave it to 
mount the side of a ship alone; but both together 
are fairly hoisted on board, the man remaining in the 
same position until he is safely landed on deck. 
When about to depart, he enters the canoe directly it 
is slung; and is then, with it, lowered into the 
water. I shall speak of the character and appear- 
ance of these poor children of nature in another 
place ; and will, therefore, merely observe that here, 
and everywhere else, they seem to stand high in 
the estimation of Europeans for faithfulness and 
honesty. There seems to be never a doubt as to 
their punctually delivering any package or message 
that may be placed in their hands ; and, as in the 
present case, letters or communications may be safely 



DESPATCHES TOR ENGLAND. 95 

entrusted to them.* The man on board of us 
thankfully received, as his fee, some biscuit which 
the commander ordered him; and to this I added, 
out of my own private stores, a trifling present from 
myself, with which he seemed highly delighted. He 
took our mail bag, and joining two of his companions 
who were in canoes astern of us, they very soon 
paddled, with their accustomed swiftness, to the 
shore, while we stood on our course to the northward. 

* A proof of this may be given by stating that the packet of 
letters we here sent on shore for England, came to hand all 
safe. 



96 



CHAP. VIII. 

THE "crow's nest.** — ICE GEAB. — ENTRANCE TO THE 
GREAT BODY OP ICE. — " TOWING " AND " TRACKING." 

— BOAT SONGS. — AS?ECT OP THE ICE. — A SCHOONER 
SEEN. — CLOSING UPON THE ICE. — " DEVIL'S THUMB." 

— BESET. — EPPORTS TO GET RELEASED. — SUCCEED 
IN WORKING THROUGH A PASSAGE. — CLOSE SHAVE 
WITH A BERG. 

Thursday \Bth. — I DID not get to my berth till 
four in the morning, and was up again at eight to 
attend to the chronometers, &c. I found that, amidst 
heavy rain and thick weather, with a light southerly 
wind, we were passing numerous icebergs, many of 
them bursting with a report like the roar of heavy 
artillery. The water was getting quite smooth, and 
hardly any motion in the ship was perceptible. It 
was clear that we were now fast approaching the 
** Pack," and due preparations were accordingly made 
for it. The ^^crow^s nesf^ was duly installed at the 
mast-head, with all the customary honours ; and as it 
is an important and very necessary item in the equip- 
ment of every vessel voyaging in the Arctic Seas, 



THE crow's nest. 97 

the following description of it may not be unin- 
teresting. 

The " Crow's Nest" is a light cask, or any simi- 
lar object, appointed for the look-out man aloft to 
shelter himself in, and is, in large ships, generally at 
the topmast-head. In smaller vessels, however, it is 
necessary to have it as high up as possible, in order 
to give from it a greater scope of vision than could 
be attained lower down. Consequently, in the Prince 
Albert it was close to the " fore-truck," that is, com- 
pletely at the mast-head. In our case, it was a long, 
narrow, but light cask, having at the lower part of it 
a trap, acting like a valve, whereby any one could 
enter ; and was open at the upper part. In length it 
was about four feet, so that a person on the look-out 
had no part of himself exposed to the weather but 
his head and shoulders. In the interior of it was a 
small seat, slung to the hinder part of the cask, and 
a spy-glass, well secured. 

To reach the "crow's nest," a rope ladder was 
affixed to the bottom of it, as seen in the engraving. 
This is called the " Jacob's Ladder," and the boat- 
swain may be observed attaching the lower parts of 
it to the foremast-head. Upon the top-gallant yard 
are two men, busy in securing the cask to the mast, 
while the second mate is inside trying its strength, 
and giving directions concerning it, 

H 



98 VOYAGE OP THE PEINCE ALBERT. 

The ** crow's nest" is a favourite place with 
many whaling captains — Penny ^iox instance — who are 
rarely out of it for days when among the ice. I was 
very frequently in it myself, fair weather or foul — 
from six to a dozen times a day, — both for personal 
gratification, and for the purpose of looking out. It 
was a favourite spot with me at midnight, when the 
atmosphere was clear, and the whole beauty of arctic 
scenery was exposed to view. 

In addition to the " crowds nesty^ ice anchors, claws, 
axes, &C., were laid in order ; tow-ropes, warps, and 
,all the other gear, examined and coiled down for use ; 
the men, too, began to get their " tracking belts " pre- 
pared for service ; and, altogether, a new phase in our 
existence was evidently about to commence. It was 
all fresh to me : I enjoyed it ; and had enough to do, 
admiring the enormous masses of ice we were passing, 
the white-topped mountains in the distance, and the 
strange aspect of everything around me. It seemed, 
as we slowly threaded our way through the bergs, 
that we were about approaching some great battle- 
field, in which we were to be actively engaged ; and 
that we were now, cautiously, passing through the 
various outposts of the mighty encampment ; at other 
times I could almost fancy we were about to enter 
secretly, by the suburbs, some of those vast and won- 
derful cities whose magnificent ruins throw into utter 



ENTEfi THE GREAT BODY OF ICE. 99 

insignificance all the grandeur of succeeding ages. 
Silently, and apparently without motion, did we glide 
along, amidst dark hazy weather, rain, and enough 
wind to fill the sails and steady them, but no more. 
In the afternoon we passed Buchan's and Berry's 
Islands, the fog and thick weather still around us ; 
and at six p.m. we began to enter loose ice, which 
seemed to cover the sea in streams as far as the eye 
could see. Slowly and cautiously, we proceeded 
through it; hardly venturing, in this our first and 
timid experience, to let the smallest piece come 
against the ship's side ; so different was our feeling 
now, from what it became but a short time after- 
wards. This day we had a fire in the cabin stove for 
the first time, though it was more on account of 
the damp below than from any feeling of cold. 

Friday 19fA. — The past night was nearly calm, 
and the watch on deck had to be employed in 
towing the ship, so as to keep her clear from bergs 
and loose pieces, and also to help her on her 
way. This towing is most fatiguing work, and does 
not give two miles an hour to a vessel's reckoning; 
but it serves to give her steerage way, and keeps 
her in the coinrse required to be pursued. Our men 
were all accustomed to it from their previous life 
being passed in whalers, where there is necessarily 
a great deal of this sort of work; and they set to 

H 2 



100 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT, 

With good Will, giving to the night air the boat 
songs they had learned years before, and often sung, 
and which sounded, in the stillness of the early 
mom, strangely, but far from unpleasantly, to one 
not before accustomed to it. 

Friday \^th. — About nine in the morning, a light 
southerly breeze sprung up, with the same sort of 
thick weather. The boats were hoisted up, and all 
sail made to the northward, keeping as near as was 
consistent with safety, and as close as we could tell, 
through the heavy haze around, to the ** land-floe," 
or that part of the loose ice which we supposed to 
belong to the floe attached to the shore. The land 
was occasionally seen through the dense atmosphere, 
at no very great distance ; and at noon we were in 
lat. 73° 40^ and long. 57"^ 30'. We passed Baffin's 
Islands; ice in detached pieces, and an immense 
number of bergs, encircling us. Throughout the re- 
mainder of this day we had the same wind and 
weather, and were similarly engaged in threading our 
way, in nearly an even course, to the northward. For 
the first time I entered the ** crow's nest " to-day to 
look for the '* Devil's Thumb," a remarkable land- 
mark on the coast, but it was too hazy for me to see 
it. Everywhere, however, were signs of the ice 
coming fast around us; or rather of our entering 
into the body of it. The streams became thicker^ 



TOWING AND TRACKING, 101 

and occurred oftener ; until at evening we might be 
Bsid to have fairly run ourselves into a passage be- 
tween two broken-up fields. We still went on, how- 
ever, without impediment; and thus midnight, or 
rather 12 p.m., for it was all day now, came upon us, 
and I went below. 

Saturday 20tk, — Saturday the 20th brought us 
light airs and calms ; then moderate and light breezes 
alternately, during the morning. The boats were 
towing for a short time, but a fair breeze springing 
up, we ran along the ** land-floe " on our right, 
which presented very much the appearance of newly 
formed ice in the lakes at home. It was very thin 
in comparison to an older floe ; and, was almost per- 
fectly smooth, extending for miles to the northward, 
and stretching close in to the shore. 

On our left, and only leaving us a small channel to 
sail in, we gradually came upon a heavy, rugged 
'* pack," the blink of which had been some time before 
visible. In the centre and skirts of this " pack," 
large ** bergs " were located, and ** hummocky ^ pieces 
were thrown up in various directions ; denoting that 
a strong pressure had lately occurred there. I as- 
cended aloft to see from the " crow's nest " what was 
the aspect of things in the direction we wished to 
take. The mate was already fixed there, taking upon 
him now his duty as ice-master. Throwing myself 

H 3 



102 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBEBT. 

across the " to'-gaUant-yard," I held a brief con- 
versation with him touching that which was now pre- 
sented to my sight. Far and near^ east^ north, and 
west, the eye met nothing but one uniform glare of 
dazzling whiteness, proceeding from immense bodies 
of field ice, broken fioes, and berffs. Save in our 
wake, nought else was visible, except right ahead^ 
where a thin blue line denoted that we could still 
proceed for a short time further in the same direc- 
tion. But beyond the termination of that thin blue 
line, a cluster of large bergs seemed to rise, in alpine 
fashion, right in our contemplated path, and extend- 
ing themselves in the form of a crescent apparently 
close in land, which was observed to the eastward 
of us in dull brown patches, covered with snow. 

** We arc fairly among the ice now, sir," observed 
the old man to me ; '^ and I have my doubts about its 
being quite so clear a passage for us this year as we 
would wish for," he added. 

Why so ?" I asked, in reply. 
Why, because," said he, " there don't seem so 
much open water anext the * land-floe ' as is usual 
Avhen, at this time of the year, a good ' lead ' through 
the bay is met with." 

He further explained to me what his opinion about 
it was ; and in conclusion stated that the ice upon 
our right was most unusually thin, not above eighteen 



if 



ASPECT OF THE ICE. 103 

inches or two feet thick, while that to the westward 
of us was at least from six to eight feet thick. The 
latter was a portion of the old middle ice, always of 
great thickness ; the former, merely the growth of 
the past season. 

! I remained aloft for some time watching with cu- 
rious gaze the novelty of the scene around me. We 
were gradually shutting ourselves In as we advanced, 
and ice was fast closing upon us in every direction. 
We were, therefore, true enough, fairly *^In the 
ice : " but ice of which most readers have no idea. 
The water frozen In our ponds and lakes at home is 
but as a mere thin pane of glass In comparison to 
that which now came upon us. Fancy before you 
miles and miles of a tabular icy rock eight feet or 
more, solid, thick throughout, unbroken, or only by 
a single rent here and there, not sufficient to sepa- 
rate the piece Itself. Conceive this Icy rock to be 
in many parts of a perfectly even surface, but in 
others covered with what might well be conceived as 
the ruins of a mighty city suddenly destroyed by 
an earthquake, and the remains jumbled together 
in one confused mass. Let there be also huge 
blocks of most fantastic form scattered about upon 
this tabular surface, and In some places rising In 
towering height, and In one apparently connected 
ohain, far, far beyond the sight. Take these in your 

H 4 



104 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

view, and you will have some faint idea of what was 
the kind of ice presented to my eye as I gazed upon 
it from aloft. We had at last come to the part most 
dreaded by the daring and adventurous whalers. 
Melville Bay^ often called, from its fearful character, 
the '^Devil's Nip," was opening to my view, and 
stretching away far to the northward out of sight. 
But neither bay nor aught else, except by knowledge 
of its position, could I discover. Everywhere was ice ; 
and the wonder to me was, how we were to get on at 
all through such an apparently insurmountable barrier. 
I was told, however, that among the bergs some clear 
water would be found if we could once get there ; 
and with this, for the present, my curiosity had to be 
contented. I felt glad that we had, at last, got so 
far, and that another new scene in my chequered life 
was about opening to me. What might be the 
end of it I neither thought about nor cared for, 
feeling assured that He who ordereth all things well 
and wisely, would in this do as seemeth Him best. 
How often, then and since, did the words in the 
*^Song of the Three Children" present themselves 
to my mind : " O ye ice and snow, bless ye the 
Lord : praise Him and magnify Him for ever!" 

I descended below, and shortly afterwards it was 
reported from the mast-head that a schooner was in 
sight, beyond or among the line of "bergs" I had 



SAGACITY OF THE BEAB. 105 

noticed ahead. She appeared to be boxing about as 
if running in and out of the ice. We concluded 
that she was Sir John Ross's vessel, the Felix; which 
ultimately proved to be correct. 

We now observed, upon the ice on our right, a 
bear very composedly looking at us. He was near a 
seal hole, where he had evidently been watching. 
The sagacity of this animal is truly wonderful ; he 
has been known to ensconce himself behind a rough 
piece of ice, and there patiently await for a long time 
the appearance of his prey. The moment the seal 
arises at the hole, he darts forward and secures it in 
his mouth, running off directly afterwards to his 
retreat. 

The one we here observed was a true polar bear ; 
and we endeavoured, but in vain, to shoot him. 
Several attempts were made, but only one ball from 
Captain Forsyth's rifle took effect, though only 
sufficient to make Bruin scamper across the ice at a 
rapid rate. 

Later on the voyage one or two more bears were 
seen, and in one case chase given to them; but we 
were not fortunate enough to capture any. 

Our position now was becoming more and more 
confined as to sailing room. The channel in which 
we had hitherto been quietly gliding, narrowed to 
little better than the breadth of the ship. At 4** 30™ 



106 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

P. M. we could get no further, a barrier of " hum- 
mocky" ice intervening right across our passage 
between us and some open water, visible not above 
seventy yards from us. Speedily the channel through 
which we had come began to close, and after trying 
in vain to force our way through the obstruction, 
we found ourselves at six o'clock completely beset. 
The DeviVs Thumbs which was now plainly visible, 
at this time bore S. E. (compass) about thirty 
miles. Other land was also seen topping over 
enormous glaciers, which were most wonderful to 
look at, and used to entrance my gaze for hours. 
At six o'clock our actual labours in the' ice com- 
menced. It was beginning to press upon us rather 
hard ; and from the appearance of that which blocked 
our way, it was evident there had been a heavy 
squeeze here, and we were afraid of getting fixed in 
another. Accordingly every effort was made to 
remove the obstacle which impeded our passage. 
We first began to try and heave the ship through by 
attaching strong warps to ice anchors, which latter 
being fastened in the solid floe, enabled a heavy 
strain to be put in force. The windlass was then set 
to work, but to no purpose, as we hardly gained a 
fathom. We next tried what heaving out the pieces 
that were in our way would do, but this proved 
of no av{dl. The saws were then set to work to 



BESET, 107 

cut off some angular projections that inconveniently 
pressed against our side ; and while this was being 
done, I sprung on to the hummocky pieces and ex- 
amined the difficulty. It was soon very obvious to 
me that a little scientific manoeuvring would mate- 
rially aid in clearing us from our unpleasant position, 
by removing some of the chief obstacles in our path. 
At the far end of the " nip," that is, the place where 
two floes had met and crushed up parts of them- 
selves into heavy hummocks, it was more loose, 
and it seemed to me that by a little exertion they 
might be made still looser, if some pieces were 
pushed out into the open water there, instead of 
working close to the ship where no room was. Seeing 
the men all very busy sawing, I took a boat hook, 
and springing on to the pieces, succeeded, after great 
labour, in getting out first one piece and then 
another. My plan to move these pieces was simple. 
It merely consisted in loosening the supports 
which bound one to the other, and then, applying 
a sort of mechanical power in the shape of lever- 
age with my hook, canted them into the water, 
whence they were easily pushed away. In about an 
hour I had cleared off a large quantity ; and now, 
being assisted by some of the men, we had the place 
nearly all free by midnight. One piece only re- 
mained right in the centre of the passage, and this 



108 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

was larger than any of the others, and appeared to 
be confined and kept down by the " tongues " of the 
two floes on either side, and it was found very diffi- 
cult to clear. Force was put upon it, and, as I sus- 
pected, force would not answer. Having resigned my 
own labours to those more capable, and after about 
four hours previous good work on my part, during 
which I had several times, when springing from floe 
to floe or on to loose pieces, got well ducked by the 
ice sinking in the water under me, I went on board. 
The obstacle, however, was not removed ; and at two 
in the morning a crack in the large floe to the west- 
ward of us was observed to be gradually enlarging. 
In less than half an hour the water appeared in 
larger quantities astern, and a ** lane" was opened, 
by a circuitous route, into the clear space ahead of 
us, whither we wanted to go. All hands were called 
to the ship, and the vessel's head turned round to the 
southward, any further attempt to get through the 
channel we had been working at being given up. 
Sail was made to a light breeze, and some delicate 
manoeuvring had to be accomplished in getting the 
ship round and in among some heavy ice, towards 
the passage we wished to enter. It was admirably 
done, however, with only one very narrow escape : 
this was, just as we turned upon our heel in a space 
hardly large enough to work a boat in, the vessel. 



EFFORTS TO GET RELEASED, 109 

with the impetus she suddenly gathered, bagged, 
withal, too much to leeward, and drove close upon a 
large berg. Our mahogany boat was hanging to the 
side davits ; two or three of us saw the danger just 
as we were approaching it, and flew to the boat 
** falls." With lightning speed the turns belonging 
to the after tackle were thrown off*, as were those of 
the foremost one, and the boat was let go by the run 
into the water, as a couple of hands sprung into her 
and unhooked the falls, passing her astern. It wad 
the work of an instant ; but that instant saved our 
life-boat, as the next second the vessel brushed 
heavily against the berg without other damage than 
a good scraping, the huge block of ice being, fortu- 
nately, nearly perpendicular. Had the boat not been 
let go, however, she would have been most assuredly 
crushed to pieces. My hand was chafed a little by the 
swift running of the fall through it, and it was fortu- 
nate that no one met with any worse accident. The 
berg was at an extreme corner ; passing it, we steered 
off, and soon entered a narrow channel with hum- 
mocky ice on each side, which in a short time led us 
into the broad sheet of water we had been striving 
for. Here, it appeared, we had room to move in for 
three or four miles, and perhaps more, and accord- 
ingly the proper watch was set, and the commander 
and myself retired to rest about half-past three. 



110 



CHAR IX. 

LABYRINTH OP ICEBERGS. — FALL IN WITH SIR JOHN 
ROSS. — MAKE FAST TO A "FLOE." — THE "FELIX." 
— MOVEMENTS OF THE BERGS. — MELVILLe's BAY, OR 

THE " devil's nip.*' SHARP FROST. — FOG. — 

SCORESBy's DESCRIPTION OF THE POLAR ICE. 

Sunday 2\st — When I went on deck the next 
morning about eight, I found the weather very thick, 
with heavy rain. Our position seemed to me but 
little improved from that of the past night, for 
numerous " bergs " of every size and shape appeared 
to obstruct our path. A fresh breeze was blowing 
from the S.E., and our ship was bounding mmbly to 
it in water as smooth as a mill-pond. But no sooner 
did she get to the end of her course one way, than 
she had to retrace her steps and try it another. We 
seemed completely hemmed in on every side by 
heavy packed ice, rough uneven hummocks, or a 
complete fleet of enormous bergs. Like a frightened 
hare did the poor thing seem to fly, here, there, 
and everywhere, vainly striving to escape from the 
apparent trap she had got into. It was a strange and 



LABYRINTH OF ICEBERGS. Ill 

novel sight. I could hardly realise it. It seemed as 
though I were merely witnessing the representation 
of it, and was, myself, free from sharing in any of its 
undoubted danger. For three or four hours, — indeed 
ever since we had entered this basin of water, we had 
been vainly striving to find some passage out of it, 
in as near a direction as possible to our proper course ; 
but neither this way, nor any other way, nor even 
that in which we had entered (for the passage had 
again suddenly closed), could we find •one. At last, 
about ten a. m., an opening between two large bergs 
was discovered to the N.W. Without a moment's 
delay our gallant little bark was pushed into it, and 
soon we found ourselves threading .through a com- 
plete labyrinth of ice rocks, if they may be so called, 
where the very smallest of them, ay, or even a frag- 
ment from one of them, if falling on us, would 
have splintered into ten thousand pieces the gallant 
vessel that had thus thrust herself among them, and 
would have buried her crew irretrievably. Wonderful 
indeed was it all. In truth, I cannot well describe 
the picture as it came before me. It was a living 
reality at the time ; now it is but as a dream ! 

Numerous lanes and channels, not unlike the paths 
and streets of a mighty city, branched off in several 
directions ; but our course was in those that led us 
most to the northward. Onward we pursued our 



112 VOYAGE OF THE FBINCE ALBERT. 

way In this manner for about two hours, when, sud- 
denly, on turning out of a passage between some 
lofty bergs, we found the view opening to us, a field 
of ice appearing at the termination of the channel, 
and at the extreme end a schooner fast to a " floe,** 
that is, lying alongside the flat ice, as by a quay. 
The wind was fair for us, blowing a moderate breeze, 
so that we soon ran down to her in saucy style, 
rounding to just ahead of her position, and making 
fast in like ma«ner. To our great joy we found that, 
as we had suspected, and, indeed, knew, as soon as 
colours were hoisted, it was indeed Sir John Ross in 
the " Felix." Here, then, was cause of gratulation to 
us. We had now overtaken one of the vessels that 
had sailed before us ; and, what was more, should in 
all probability have her as a consort through the 
dangerous navigation of the ice we were still to 
encounter. Hardly were we fast, when Commander 
Phillips, who had accompanied Sir John in his little 
vessel, came running over the ice to us. In another 
moment he was on board, and I was soon presented 
to him by Captain Forsyth. Mutual congratulations 
and inquiries were speedily given and received, and 
a cordial invitation given to Captain Forsyth and 
myself, to dine on board the " Felix." Glad was I of 
an opportimity to see the gallant old veteran, whose 
name and writings had latterly been so frequently 



PALL IN WITH SIB JOHN ROSS. 113 

before me. All ceremony was dispensed with, and I 
was glad of it ; for, not being one of the navy, as the 
other three gentlemen were, I could not follow my 
commander's example in putting on an uniform cap 
and coat to meet Sir John. The " Felix" I found to 
be much about our own size, but differently equipped 
and rigged. She had far less ** heam^\ and was infe- 
rior, as regarded appearance^ in every respect. But 
she was well fortified, and possessed some advan- 
tages which we had not. Directly we got on board. 
Sir John Ross came to meet us- Respect, esteem, 
admiration, all were blended together in my mind, 
as, in returning the friendly shake of the hand he 
offered me, I involuntarily gave more heartiness to my 
manner than is usual with strangers- It is not for me, 
here, either to describe him, or to say one word more 
about him, than the course of my narrative compels 
me to do. I saw before me him who, for four long 
years and more, had been incarcerated, hopelessly, 
with his companions, in those icy regions to which 
we ourselves were bound. There he was, that brave 
and fearless old man ! he who had said, in all but 
tones of bitter anguish, as he beheld his men and 
oflScers around him, day after day in miserable 
bondage — 

" There was little change in the now unavoidable 
sameness of our occupations and amusements. On 

I 



114 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBEBT. 

this and many other days we tracked animals and did 
not see them ; carried guns and did not fire ; watched 
for the Invisible sun that we might at least know It 
was 8tm in existence; and were not sorry when (I 
cannot say the day was done, where all was night), 
but when we might at least end another of our own 
days by going to bed." 

I was struck with astonishment ! It was nothing, 
in comparison, for the young and robust to come on 
such a voyage ; but that he^ at his time of life, when 
men generaUy think it right— and right, perhaps, it 
is, too — to sit quietly down at home by their own 
firesides, should brave the hardship and danger once 
again, was indeed surprising. 

With Commander Phillips I was very much 
pleased. There was no formality about him. He 
is a hardy seaman when needed, and a gentlemanly 
oflScer as occasion required. I passed several agree- 
able hours in his company; and I cannot refrain 
from tendering him my thanks for his uniform cour- 
tesy to me, who was, nominally, but a civilian^ and 
at any time only a humble blue-jacket in the mer- 
cantile marine. 

In the evening both vessels had to move into 
another position, in consequence of the bergs ap- 
proaching too closely towards us. To watch these 
mountain, icy monsters in a calm, as they slowly and 



MOVING ICEBERGS. 115 

silentlj^ yet surely and determinedly, move about in 
the narrow sheet of water by which they chance to 
be encompassed, one could well imagine that it was 
some huge mysterious thing, possessed of life, and 
bent on the fell purpose of destruction. Onward 
it, almost imperceptibly, glides, until, reaching an 
opposing floe, it forces its way far through the solid 
ice, ploughing up the pieces and throwing them aside 
in hilly heaps with a force and power apparently 
incredible. Should it happen that an impetus is 
given to it by wind, or other causes besides those 
thus occasioned by the tide, or current, it is mighty 
in its strength, and terrific in the desolation it pro- 
duces. Nothing can save a ship if thus caught by one, 
as was the case in the memorable and fatal year of 
1830, in this very bay, when vessels were " squeezed 
flat," — *^ reared up by the ice, almost in the position 
of a rearing horse ! others thrown fairly over on their 
broadsides ; and some actually overrun by the ad- 
vancing floe and totally buried by it."* 

Monday. — The 22d commenced with a sharp 
frost and thick fog upon the ice, though clear 
overhead. The ropes, rigging, and spars were 
covered with icicles, hanging pendent in a thousand 
fantastic shapes and forms. The wind was north- 
easterly, and we hoped for a change from it, as that 

* Dr. Scoresby. 
I 2 



116 VOYAGE OP THE PBINCE ALBEET. 

blew directly out of the bay, and would probably 
open some of the floes, so as to give us a lead in 
the direction we wanted. Noon passed on, however, 
without the fog clearing away, and it was folly to 
think of moving from our present position until it 
cleared. Accordingly we remained in statu quo^ but 
gradually preparing for the encounter that sooner 
or later must take place between ourselves and the 
rugged and powerful barrier that obstructed our way. 
Long saws, poles, axes, chisels, anchors, claws, and a 
variety of other implements used in trying to force a 
passage through the ice, were laid ready at hand. All 
the sea-gear, not now required, was stowed below; 
the vessel herself was carefully examined to see that 
nothing was defective in her guards and strengthen- 
ings ; and the boats were put in order for heavy 
service where rough knocks might frequently be 
expected. It was the first day, indeed, that we had 
been regularly and immovably fast to the ice, an^ I 
had thus a fair opportunity of judging what it was. 
As I walked, in thick heavy boots, upon its surface, 
I found that in many parts it presented an appear* 
ance not unlike what ground covered with snow, 
and then frosted before it had melted, would give ; 
while in others it was more soft and yielding to the 
foot. Several places showed dark- blue patches, in 
some of which was water, and in others none. This 



AECTIC ICE. 117 

water was as pure and fresh as any one need wish to 
drink ; and it is the kind used by all vessels in these 
regions when they can come across it In other 
places^ however, were patches of a different colour, 
greeny and these denoted spots of danger. The ice 
there was either hollow, or broken, not so thick, or 
in some manner or other defective ; and to tread 
upon it would, almost certainly, ensure a good duck- 
ing, if nothing worse. But these latter places were 
very few, and mostly near the edge of the ice, or 
close to some crack plainly visible. 

As a general description of the ice may be accept- 
able to some of my readers, and will serve the better 
to explain much of what follows, I shall here take 
the liberty of quoting on the subject from Dr. 
Scoresby's excellent and invaluable work on " The 
Arctic Regions," a work, I believe, now out of 
print. He says, — " Ice-fields constitute one of the 
wonders of the deep. They are often met with of 
the diameter of twenty or thirty miles, and when in 
the state of such close combination that no interstice 
could be seen, they sometimes extend to a length of 
fifty or a hundred miles. The ice of which they are 
composed is generally pure and fresh, and in heavy 
fields it is probably of the average thickness of ten 
to fifteen feet, and then appears to be flat, low, thin 

ice ; but when high hummocks occur, the thickness 

J 3 



118 VOYAGE OF THE PEINCE ALBERT. 

is often forty feet and fifty feet. The surface before 
the month of July is always covered with a bed of 
snow, from perhaps a foot to a fathom in depth. This 
snow dissolves in the end of summer, and forms ex- 
tensive pools and lakes of fresh water. Some of the 
largest fields are very level and smooth, though gene- 
rally their surfaces are varied with hummocks. In 
some, these hummocks form ridges or chains, in 
others, they consist of insulated heaps. I once saw 
a field which was so free from either fissure or hum- 
mock, that I imagined, had it been free from snow, a 
coach might have been driven many leagues over it 
in a direct line, without obstruction or danger. Hum- 
mocks somewhat relieve the uniformity of intense 
light reflected from the surface of fields, by exhibit- 
ing shades of delicate blue in all the hollows, where 
the light is partly intercepted by passing through a 
portion of ice. 

" When the surface of snow on fields is frozen, or 
when the snow is generally dissolved, there is no dif- 
ficulty in travelling over them, even without snow- 
skates or sledges. But when the snow is soft and 
deep, travelling on foot to any distance is a work of 
labour. The tribe of Esquimaux, discovered by 
Captain Boss, made use of sledges, drawn by dogs, 
for conveying them across the rough land ice, lying 
between the ships and the shore. A journey they 



DESCRIPTION OP POLAE ICE. 119 

performed with such celerity, that Captain Ross con- 
jectured they could travel fifty or sixty miles a day. 
J£ such a distance were practicable on drift-ice, oc- 
curring near shore, it would be much more easy on 
the smoother ice of fields. 

** Fields commonly make their appearance in the 
months of May or June, though sometimes earlier; 
they are frequently the resort of young whales. 
Strong north and westerly winds expose them to the 
whalers by driving off the loose ice. The invariable 
tendency of fields is to drift to the south-westward, 
even in calms, which is the means of many being 
yearly destroyed. They have frequently been ob- 
served to advance a hundred miles in this direction 
within the space of one month, notwithstanding the 
occurrence of winds from every quarter. On emerg- 
ing from amidst the smaller ice, which before 
sheltered them, they are soon broken up by the 
swell, are partly dissolved, and partly converted into 
drift ice. The places of such are supplied by others 
from the north. The power of the swell in breaking 
the heaviest fields is not a little remarkable. A 
grown swell, that is so inconsiderable as not to be 
observed in open water, frequently breaks up the 
largest fields, and converts them wholly into floes 

and drift-ice in the space of a few hours ; while fields 

I 4 



120 VOYAGE OP THE PBINCE ALBEBT. 

composed of bay-ice, or light-ice, being more flexible, 
endure the same swell without any destructive 
effort. 

^^ The occasional rapid motion of fields, with the 
strange effects produced by such immense bodies on 
any opposing substance, is one of the most striking 
objects the Polar Seas present, and is certainly the 
most terrific. They not unfrequently acquire a 
rotatory movement, whereby their circumference at- 
tains a velocity of several miles per hour. A field 
thus in motion, coming in contact with another at 
rest, or more especially with another having a con- 
trary direction of movement, produces a dreadful 
shock. A body of more than ten thousand millions 
of tons in weight, meeting with resistance when in 
motion, produces consequences which it is scarcely 
possible to conceive. The weaker field is crushed 
with an awful noise; sometimes the destruction is 
mutual; pieces of huge dimensions and weight are 
not unfrequently piled upon the top, to the height of 
twenty or thirty feet, while a proportionate quantity 
is depressed beneath. The view of these stupendous 
effects in safety exhibits a picture sublimely grand, 
but where there is danger of being overwhelmed, 
terror and dismay must be the predominant feelings. 
The whale-fishers at all times require unremitting 
vigilance to secure their safety, but scarcely in any 



DESCRIPTION OF FOLAB ICE. 121 

situation so much as when navigating amidst these 
fields ; in foggy weather, they are particularly danger- 
ous, as their motions cannot then be distinctly ob- 
served. It may easily be imagined that the strongest 
ship is but an insignificant impediment between two 
fields in motion." 



122 



CHAP. X. 

ICE OPENS. — SAIL MADE. — SEVEN VESSELS IN SIGHT. 

WHALERS RETURNING, UNABLE TO GET THROUGH THE 
BAY. — INFORMATION OBTAINED. — BAD SEASON IN MEL- 
VILLE BAY. — CAPTAIN AUSTIN'S SHIPS FAST IN THE ICE. 

VTELALERS GOING SOUTH TO THE WEST LAND FOR 

FISH. — PARTING CHEERS. HEAVY WORK GETTING 

THROUGH NARROW PASSAGES. — TRACKING SONGS. — 
GLARE OP THE LIGHT AT MIDNIGHT. 

It was through such ice and in such a region as I 
have just described that we were now to make our 
way as best we could. Winds were not so much 
what we desired^ as clear water ; and the movements 
of the vast bodies that opened and shut, apparently 
at pleasure, and as if by some mighty agency, were 
to be watched by us before aught else. It was agreed 
what we should proceed in company with the "Felix :" 
we should help one another in case of need, and at 
least have the pleasure of one another's company. 

About six P. M., while Sir John Boss, Commander 
Phillips, and ourselves, were in the cabin of the 
" Prince Albert," enjoying an agreeable evening, it 



SAIL MADE. 123 

was reported that the "FeKx" was making a stir, 
and that the fog was clearing away. A clear lead 
had been seen to the north-west by the ice-masters ; 
and more water was visible beyond it. No time was, 
therefore, lost. Sail was made on each ship, and, 
leaving the friendly floe, to which we had been 
fast, we both stood away ; first to the south-east, to 
clear some small bergs, and then in the opposite 
direction. Sir John Koss, as senior in rank, age, and 
experience, took the lead, we keeping at some small 
distance behind ; but it was soon discovered that in 
sailing qualities we were infinitely superior. The 
weather brightened considerably, and it became a 
beautiful clear evening, with a moderate breeze from 
the north-east^ and north. The wind, consequently, 
was against us, and we had to beat up through the 
channel of open water that we had entered upon. It 
was here that we first became fully aware of the ex- 
cellent sailing qualities of our little vessel. She 
fairly doubled upon the "Felix" in two tacks ; and was 
soon far to windward. She flew round to her helm, 
when staying^ in an instant ; and forged ahead at the 
same time as prettily as any Queen's cutter could 
have done. Whether we had by this time got her 
in better trim, or whether it was because the water 
was so smooth, I cannot say ; but, no doubt, both 
combined in making her work so well. We could 



124 VOYAGE OP THE PEINCE ALBERT. 

turn and turn in short boards without the smallest 
hesitation ; nowy approaching so close to a grim berg 
that a biscuit might have been easily thrown upon 
it ; then, darting off from it on the instant, and 
running right to the very edge of the opposite 
floe; where, upon a turn of the helm, she would 
start ahead, alongside, under the impetus she bad 
received, until gracefully falling off on the other 
tack, she again stretched over well to windward of 
the neighbourhood whence she had come. Thus did 
we proceed during five or six hours, with a clear 
sky, a brilliant sun, comparatively mild weather, and 
a gentle breeze. It was some of the pleasantest sail- 
ing I had yet experienced on the voyage; and it 
was, certainly, a sight to make one pleased. Two 
vessels, far inferior in size to any that were in the 
habit of visiting those parts, working about in the 
ice with a feeling of perfect security, and an ap- 
parently total indifference to the dangers of it; and 
ours too the smaller of the two ! It was a pretty and 
a pleasing sight, and it was the more gratifying when, 
about eight p.m., news came from the " crow's nest" 
that seven large vessels, evidently whalers, were in 
sight over some bergs to the northward, apparently 
striving to get out of their position, and make to the 
southward. They were intending to go back and try 
the middle or lower passage, being unable to get 



WHALEBS EETURNING. 125 

through the bay ; as our most experienced hands in 
whaling immediately explained. What they could 
not do, we were trying to do ; but the question was, 
should we be enabled to accomplish it, now that 
they had failed? We would see; and as, in another 
hour or two, they became so visible as to clearly 
show their intention of coming into the same sheet 
of water as ourselves, it was almost certain we 
should soon speak them and hear what they had 
to say. A partial fog came on again about eleven, 
and, not wishing to lose the "Felix," or leave 
her behind, we hove to imtil she came up to us. 
Keeping together, then, we both proceeded under easy 
sail ; imtil it becoming once more quite clear, we 
crowded on towards the extremity of the bight of 
water we had now run into. This was evidently the 
end of our progress at present, and, as we neared it, 
we could perceive no opening whereby we could 
escape or hope to get further on ; nor could we find 
out how the strange-vessels, now not very far from 
us, were to come within even signal distance* It 
was clear that they, too, were also stopped; and 
we had nothing for it, therefore, but patience, and 
to await some new movement of the ice. Ac- 
cordingly we made fast to a floe, about one in the 
morning, with the same fine clear sky and brilliant 
sun as we had had in the early part of the evening. 



126 VOYAGE or THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

The ^^ Felix" soon afterwards came up to us, and like- 
wise made fast just astern. I then went below ; but 
sleep I could not. It was the same as perfect noon- 
day, and the light came into my cabin so strongly, 
as to prevent anything like the enjoyment of a quiet 
slumber. I was, at last, obliged to darken my place^ 
and thus ultimately got the rest I so much required.^ 
I was awake the next morning about five, and 
found the seven whalers were coming through the 
ice ahead of us in a most majestic manner, under a 
press of sail, and with all their boats towing, and 
colours hoisted. It appeared that the two heaviest 
fioes had slightly parted ; and several loose pieces got 
between them. Through these loose pieces, with the 
characteristic and dauntless fearlessness of whalers, 
did the vessels now approaching us wend their way. 
The sky was cloudless, and there was hardly a breath 
of wind, so that each ship had to be towed through 
by her boats ; and right well and proudly did they 
separately emerge, in line-of-battle order, from within 
their icy boundaries, to the clearer water adjoining^ 
and astern of us. As we lay still, fast to the floe> 
with our flags hoisted, each vessel came by us sweep- 
ing along in its lordly bearing and huge form. Prior 
to their coming abeam, a boat from each ship shot 
off towards us ; and soon we had around, and on board 
of us more new faces than we had seen for a long 



COMPLIMENT TO SIR J. ROSS. 127 

whae. Honest-hearted and manly wishes for our 
success were expressed by all ; and though time was 
too great an object with these daring fellows at the 
present hour to lose unnecessarily a moment of it^ 
they yet gave us all the information they could, as to 
the state of the ice, how we were to act, &c, &c., 
and then departed. But here I noticed a trait of 
character which pleased me not a little. Our vessel 
was ihQ first one in their way, and to us they would 
naturally ^r5^ come in ordinary circumstances ; but 
no sooner was it well ascertained* that Sir John 
Ross was in his vessel, the " Felix," astern of us, 
than we were hastily forsaken or passed by. He was 
one of themselves in country, daring, and, partly, 
experience ; he was a brave old man, a "canny" boy, 
and they must pay him their respects, and do him 
honour. Accordingly we soon had none alongside 
of us, but an American, the only whaler of the 
United States in those seas ; and with the captain I 
held some conversation ; giving him a few late New 
York papers that I chanced to have by me. This 
ship was called the McClelland, and, singularly 
enough, belonged to a firm, one of whose members, 
Henry Grinnell, Esq., had ennobled himself in send- 
ing out the two vessels sailing under the American 
colours, for the search of Sir John Franklin. The 
'*' They had, at first, supposed us to be the two Americans. 



128 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

other whalers were named the Regalia^ Pacific^ Horn, 
Joseph Green, Lord Gambler, and the Chieftain; 
that Chieftain which brought home the Esquimaux 
Report of last year. The information we received 
from these vessels was to the following effect : — 

They had left Captain Austin's and Captain 
Penny's ships about thirty miles away from us to the 
northward; and they were, themselves, for eleven 
days, in a dock only ten miles fiirther on. They had 
found it impossible to get through the Bay in time 
for the usual whaling, on account of the imusual 
heavy ice, &c., and were therefore bound to the 
southward to try the lower passage, as the " True- 
love" had gone to do. 

Such letters as we had on board for them were 
given, along with a private one of my own for 
England, deeming of course, at that time, that they 
would be home a full year before we should. A 
parcel that I had for Captain Stewart was gladly re- 
ceived by him ; but they were aU in very great haste 
to be off, in consequence of wishing to get their ships 
through the remaining ice as speedily as possible. As 
the vessel which led the van passed us with her boats 
towing, the rigging was suddenly manned; the 
rowers ceased pulling, and stood upon their feet; 
while such a cheer was given, and given three timesj 
by the whole crew of sizty men, as was, I am 



PABTING OHEEBS. 129 

sure, never exceeded anywhere. With one voice, as 
though all had been of one mind at the moment, and 
acting upon uupulse, a glorious sailor-like Hurrah ! 
was shouted from their stentorian lungs, while their 
hats and hands waved again and again in friendly sa* 
lutation to us. The sound was sent far and near, and 
its echoes resounded in a thousand other voices from 
the few bergs and blocks of ice that still surrounded 
ns. Taken by surprise, we were not, however, at a 
loss. Our rigging was manned on the instant, as was 
also the Felix's, and the hearty cheers returned as 
heartily. One more cheer from the receding ship in 
reply, and the next moment she was gone. But ere 
the sound of her voices had died upon the ear, another 
vessel had supplied her place in the slowly passing 
but beautiful panoramic display, and, in like manner, 
from this one, also, arose the deafening shout of 
friendly wish and gratulation. So with all suc- 
cessively. As each passed by, her long line of boats 
ahead impelling her forward, the same vociferous 
and hearty cheer was given, and by us as heartily 
returned. 

Tuesday 23d. — At noon it was calm and clear. The 
opening through which the whalers had come was suf- 
ficiently large to have admitted us immediately after 
they had passed ; but beyond it, no great extent of 
clear water was visible until now. Several " lanes " 

K 



130 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

were beginning to show themselves, and we, there- 
fore, cast off, and got the boats ahead to tow us on. 
At first we had some little difficulty in moving for- 
ward ; but, after a short time, several " necks " had to 
be broken to admit of our passing. The " Felix " 
had, as before, taken the lead ; but we found that, 
in towing as well as sailing^ we had the advan- 
tage of her. Her large boat, the " Mary," towing 
astern was no doubt a great drawback. In a nar- 
row channel, we shot ahead of her unavoidably; 
and, indeed, so close were we in passing, that we 
shaved each other almost too sharply to be pleasant. 
Thus getting in advance of her, we had to clear the 
way for both. Several large pieces and rough hum- 
mocks intercepted the line of our course, and, being 
jammed between two large floes, often proved a work 
of no little difficulty to get cleared. Here, with boat- 
hook and ice-poles, axes and chisels, I headed two or 
three men, and was upon every piece, as much in the 
water as out, working hard to get them loosened and 
moved away. The task was pleasing and exciting, 
demolishing or upsetting huge blocks that were piled 
up before us. This clearing away a passage was 
sport to all who worked at it. One man got over head 
and ears in the water, from a part of the floe giving 
way ; and I also fell upon an under piece, owing to a 
large block of , ice suddenly canting round. These 



*' TRACKING." 131 

little mishaps^ however, only created an additional 
laugh at those who suffered, the sufferers themselves 
joining in it. 

After getting clear of the impediment that had 
stopped our way, there was a large sheet of water 
before us, bordered on the one side by a floe, some- 
what level, yet hummocky in one or two places. 
Here we began "tracking," and all hands were or- 
dered on the ice for that purpose. 

Those who have seen a canal-boat, or any common 
boat, dragged along by hand, may have some idea of 
this. A track-rope from the foremast is carried on 
to the ice, where a dozen lusty hands seize it, and 
drag the ship onward at a rate of about two to three 
miles an hour. At this duty, men previously accus- 
tomed to whaling are exceedingly apt ; and it is to 
them, in general, one of the most pleasing features 
of the voyage. Our ship's company were all ca- 
pable of performing this work most admirably, and 
when the " Felix " came near us again, they gave a 
rally, and walked the " Prince Albert " off at a fine 
rate. Twice had we to stop for our consort, much 
to the dislike of our ardent crew; and each time 
when we started afresh did we get as rapidly ahead 
of her as before. Once we found that she was most 
unpleasantly fixed some distance astern of us, several 
pieces of rough ice having suddenly met, and ren- 

K 2 



132 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

dered a narrow passage very difficult to get through ; 
though when we had cleared it by forcing ourselves on, 
it was then comparatively quite open. The delay of 
a few moments, however, is often of very fatal conse- 
quence *, and almost always, where a fair opportunity 
is presented and not taken advantage of, proves a 
cause of additional trouble. This was the case with the 
*^ Felix." Her distance behind us had prevented the 
passage being taken the moment after we had opened 
it, and consequently she was almost in a jam. Cap- 
tain Forsyth sent two of our boats to assist her ; and 
our gallant fellows dashed off to her with the utmost 
alacrity, performing the service they went upon much 
to the satisfaction of the assisted party. 

In tracking there is something particularly animat- 
ing. All the working hands, when necessary, are 
actively employed on the ice in pulling the ship on- 
ward. The song is kept up to a fanciful and far 
from unmelodious though rough chorus ; and in the 
present case thirteen manly voices shouted this 
chorus far and near with all the strength their lungs 
would give them. Now and then a lively ballad or a 
half-sentimental ditty would be sung by some one ; 
but I soon found that one or two old chants were 

♦ A remarkable case in point occurred a few years ago ; 
when, out of five vessels, one only got through a nip at the 
moment, and ultimately arrived at the whaling ground, malting 
a good season ; while the other four had to return. 



TRACKING SONGS. 133 

the favourites. Somewhat later during the passage 

through the bay, I ran up a sti-ing of verses, with a 

bold and lively chorus, for the men to use, in which 

our own ship of course was the predominant feature. 

As I stood at the helm*, steering the ship through and 

along the ice (for I took this post as well as many 

others, glad to do anything that might help to get the 

ship on), I watched the men frequently with much 

pleasure. One of them who played on the bagpipes, 

had his instrument with him ; and between the songs 

he gave some lively Scotch airs, as in steady pace the 

whole crew followed him, — now on even ice, now 

over rough and hummocky pieces, and at other times 

taking a sweep to avoid some dangerous crack or 

broken spot. Little was there to dread, however ; 

for, independent of the thickness of the ice, each 

man had for safety his tracking belt, called by them 

^^ rouoraddy^'' so fastened to the track-rope that he 

could not well fall through any hole without first 

letting himself loose. It was only when they were 

returning on board or preparing to start that some 

might, and did, fall in. But there were always others 

at hand to help them out again. 

In the evening we got into more clear water than 

we had seen since entering the ice, and we passed 

'*' By my taking the helm, the proper hehnsman could go 
and work at the track-rope. 

K 3 



134 VOTAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

the whole night under sail, beating to windward, a 
gentle northerly breeze having sprung up. The watch 
was set at eight p.m., an extra glass of grog given, 
and not one of us but was glad to take his rest when 
the hour for turning in came. Mine, however, was 
rarely before midnight, and even then, as I said be- 
fore, it was with difficulty that the brilliant light, 
shining around like noonday, would let me sleep. 



136 



CHAR XI. 

SLOW PROGRESS THROUGH THE ICE. — A WARM DAY. — 

CAPTAIN Austin's vessels seen. — number of seals. 

FEW BIRDS. — beset. — THE ESQUIMAUX *^ADAM." — 

effects of refraction. — OMINOUS PREPARATIONS. — 
THE "FELIX "squeezed BETWEEN TWO FLOES. — LUCKY 
ESCAPE. — INDICATIONS OF A GALE. — ICE CLOSING IN 
FAST. — UNPLEASANT POSITION. 

Wednesday 24fA. — At six A. M. of this day, after 
aU night working to windward, we had to make fast 
to the floe, there being no more open water for us 
ahead* At noon, however, the ice broke away again, 
and we began our usual tracking and heaving the ship 
through into clear water. The weather was beautiful, 
a light breeze and cloudless sky, until one p.m. ; when 
symptoms of a fog presented themselves, and we hove 
to, for the ^^ Felix" to come up to us. It cleared again, 
and away we went through the remainder of the day, 
tracking, towing, and beating to windward, gaining, 
perhaps, in a direct course some five or six miles out 
of the twenty or thirty we run over ; so many turn- 
ings and twistings had we to take to get along at 
all. We forced through some narrow passages, and 
/ K 4 



136 VOYAGE OP THK PEINCE ALBERT. 

then came into a " hole" of water of some extent, but 
from the reappearance of fog to windward we thought 
it unadvisable to keep too far ahead of our consort, 
and accordingly up helm and run back to her. After- 
wards we kept close together until midnight, when, 
the ice being unbroken any further, we made fast 
again. 

Thursday 25th. — This was a perfectly warm 
day, indeed too warm. The thermometer in the 
sun at three P. M. was 72% and the glare and "heat 
together made it anything but pleasant on the ice. 
It affected my eyes so much that I began to think 
of my snow spectacles. Indeed, I found that so much 
looking out from both below and aloft was weakening 
my sight ; for I was up in the crow's nest as often 
during each day, and night too, as I possibly could. 
The day, as I before observed, was very warm : it 
was also clear and calm. Very little was done 
throughout it. Some small channels of water were 
observed on our starboard hand, and it having been 
reported from the mast-head that more vessels (pre- 
sumed to be Captain Austin's) were in sight to 
the northward, the ^^ Felix" began to warp away and 
make sail, the Prince Albert, shortly afterwards, 
doing the same. But at half-past two P. M. we had 
to make fast again, having gone not above three or 
four miles. The <^ Felix," being allowed to keep 



THE ESQUIMAUX "ADAM.'* 137 

ahead of us this time, got into a different " lane" of 
water from ours, and we were therefore separated to 
some distance from each other when we made fast. 

A great number of seals were observed to-day 
playing about ; but birds of any kind were scarce. 
A *^ snow-bunting " was, however, shot and brought 
on board to be stuffed for the Commander. 

Friday 25th. — This day was fine and clear, but 
not so warm as the preceding. The ice continued 
firmly set, and no moTement could be possibly ef- 
fected. Communication between the two vessels 
was kept up by a walk across the large floe that 
separated us ; and, the men being allowed to amuse 
themselves as best they could, many were constantly 
going to and fro between ourselves and the " Felix.'* 
We had a great deal of the company of Sir John 
Koss's Esquimaux Adam on board of us, where he 
was a general favourite among the men, for his really 
very good performance on the violin, and his amiable 
disposition. He had a great habit of going aloft and 
sitting on the fareyard, where he would play several 
tunes for, perhaps, nearly an hour. Occasionally, he 
would paddle about in his kayacky and several times 
evinced his skill in throwing the spear for practice, 
or in explaining how it was done. I became partial 
to him ; and, I believe, he was also so to me. 

Saturday 27 tk. — This was a similar day to the last. 



138 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

as regards wind and weather, and, I might say, pro- 
gress too. Indeed, there seemed, at that time, very- 
little hope of getting on; for every one who had 
been there before, stated, that the ice waa more than 
usually bound in the bay this season, and the chances 
of getting through in anything like a reasonable 
time more than ever doubtfuL The weather was, 
certainly, most beautiful ; air cold, but sun occasion- 
ally very hot. The refraction so much spoken of 
I noticed then, and for some days previous, in a 
most extraordinary degree. The ice, and distant 
objects, presented, at times, singular and fantastic 
forms : churches, steeples, castles, houses, towns, &.c., 
&c. The wide expanse of ice — almost unbroken, 
and uniformly flat except in a few places where a 
berg appeared — presented a most dazzling aspect. I 
had been advised to get ready a bag of clothes, &c. 
(an ominous preparation), and to keep it at hand in 
the event of having, suddenly, to jump clear of the 
ship on to the ice. I had not yet done so, though 
some of the men had; and provisions for a similar 
purpose had been placed on deck. But the ensuing 
night it might be needed. When I retired at eleven 
we were fast to the ice, waiting for an opening. One 
presented itself at twelve, and, it appears, the " Felix" 
took the lead, I was suddenly aroused at a quarter to 
one, and told that our consort had got squeezed^ owing 



LUCKT ESCAPE. 139 

to the ice suddenly closing upon her, and that we had 
only saved ourselves by instantly letting go the track- 
rope and hauling astern. I ran on deck, where 
Captain Forsyth was already busy securing the 
vessel in safety. The ^* Felix," we found, was unhurt ; 
but her large boat, the " Mary," had been, lifted up 
and thrown on the ice under the ship's counter, 
causing some damage to her bulwarks* I soon went 
below, but before going to sleep again bundled some 
clothes into a bag, which I, afterwards, repacked, 
and always kept close to my bedside, with a long 
lanyard to lay hold of and pull up with me, in case I 
needed to take refuge, not on shore, but on, what 
is always a sure refuge in such cases, the ice itself. 
As Dr. Scoresby, in his late work on the subject of 
relief to Sir John Franklin, most truly observes, " the 
ice which works the mischief offers the means of 
escape from the present danger." 

Sunday 2%t1i. — All this day we were fast to the 
ice, unable to move. A smart breeze from the east- 
ward was blowing, with fine weather. Divme service 
performed as usuaL 

Towards evening, however, the barometer, which 
had been falling fast all day, indicated a gale ; and, 
about eleven p.m., every symptom of it was dis- 
cernible. The wind was freshening up from the 
dreaded quarter (S. W.), and the narrow space of 



140 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

clear water around us was evidently becoming nar- 
rower. We had to shift our position before midnight, 
in consequence of the ice closing in upon us ; and at 
a quarter to one in the morning we were obhged to 
unship our rudder to keep it in safety. 

Monday 29th, — When I got on deck the fol- 
lowing morning it was blowing a strong breeze, 
with hazy weather; and, altogether, our position 
was most unpleasant. There was no mistake 
as to its danger; for the whole space of clear 
water, now, was barely more than enough to 
float our two little vessels in and keep clear of 
each other. Indeed, in shifting our berths, it was 
diflScult to avoid fouling; as was proved when, 
at ten a. m., the anchors having come home — that is, 
let go their hold of the ice — we suddenly came 
right upon the " Felix," though without any injury to 
either of us. We laid the anchors out afresh, in 
another place, and secured ship; also struck our 
mizen-top-mast, got all the boats upon the ice in 
readiness, hoisted sundry provisions on deck in addi- 
tion to what were already there, and, in fact, made 
every preparation in case we should receive a ** nip.^ 
Sir John Boss, we ascertained, was doing the same ; 
and this we thought rendered it still more necessary 
for us. At noon, our latitude, by a chance observa- 
tion of the sun, was 75° 16', and our longitude by 



UNPLEASANT POSITION. 141 

chronometer 60° 30^ ; Sabine Islands bearing N.E. 
(true) about ten miles. 

At half-past three P. M. the space of water was still 
narrowing, though, fortunately for us, it preserved its 
appearance as a natural dock — the best of docks in 
the ice — the whole time. The wind and weather 
were very threatening, and again we had to move 
our berth to avoid a squeeze. 

After I had seen every thing in my own depart- 
ment attended to respecting stores, a selection of 
medicines, ship's papers, &c., I filled my portmanteau, 
besides the bag, with such articles belonging to my- 
self as I deemed most requisite for the novel journey 
we should have to perform, if our little vessel, and 
the " Felix," too, were crushed here and destroyed, a 
thing at that time not at all unlikely. Had such 
been the case, we must have travelled across the ice, 
as others had done, in boats or on foot, back the way 
we came; and this would have proved a long, fa- 
tiguing, and perhaps uncertain journey. It was not, 
however, to be performed ; but I got all ready for it, 
after the example of others. I next went aloft, and, 
from the " crow's nest,*' took a good look around. It 
was a most miserable and gloomy prospect. Where 
the haze and thick weather permitted, nothing could 
be seen but a vast monotonous waste of ice and 
snow, with here and there a few rugged tops of land 



142 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

on the Greenland coast. It was dreary in the ex- 
treme ; and not a particle of water, except that in 
which our two ships floated, was in view when,' 
later, I again looked upon the scene. Fortunately, 
and against our expectations, towards evening the 
wind went down, and no further encroachment was 
made upon us by the ice. 

Tuesday SOth. — The following day brought us 
no change for good or bad. We remained precisely 
in the same position, with the wind moderate from 
the south-west, and thick, foggy weather. We 
shipped our rudder, and made all snug again, as be- 
fore. In the evening we tried for soundings, but 
could find no bottom at 220 fathoms; the tem- 
perature of the sea at that depth was 31° Fahr. 



143 



CHAP. XIL 



BETTER WEATHER. — STILL BESET. — ATTEMPT TO REACH 

CAPTAIN Austin's ships by a walk across the ice. 

thick fog. — ice opens. — MOVE SHIP. — LARGE 

bergs. — THE AMERICAN DISCOVERY SHIPS SEEN. 

DANGEROUS POSITION. CLOSE BESET. HEAVY PRES- 
SURE. — ICE IN FEARFUL MOTION AROUND US. MAKING 

READY FOR TAKING TO THE ICE. — PROVIDENTIAL ES- 
CAPE. — GET RELEASED FROM OUR POSITION, AND MOVE 
THROUGH NARROW AND INTRICATE PASSAGES TO CLEARER 

WATER. — WEATHER VERY WARM IN THE SUN. UNDER 

SAIL AGAIN. MAKE FAST AT MIDNIGHT. 



Wednesday ^\st — The early part of this day was 
very clear and fine, with a gentle wind from the 
S. S. E. Captain Austin's fleet was observed to the 
N.N.E. distant about eight miles. As we had nothing 
particular to do, and the ice still remained closed, 
not the smallest opening to admit of our getting out 
being visible, I accompanied a party, that was sent 
from each vessel, to try and communicate with Cap- 
tain Austin, and to ascertain what prospect there 
was in that direction. Commander Philips headed 
those who went from the " Felix," and I thus had the 
great advantage of his better judgment, as to our pro- 



144 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

gress or return, if necessary. Equipping myself in 
a suitable garb, rough as rough could be, and taking 
with me the letters, newspapers, &c., as, also, my 
faithful walking-stick, I was soon en route across the 
ice for the government ships. We could not, how- 
ever, proceed very far, on account of the large broken 
patches and hummocks in our way ; and, a fog coming 
on, it was deemed advisable to return; which we 
did after a journey of a mile or a mile and a half each 
way. This day I used my snow spectacles, though I 
did not retain them long, owing to the inconvenience 
of such articles. In the afternoon we had the pleasure 
of Sir John Ross and Commander Philips's company 
to dinner, and a most agreeable evening was thus 
spent. 

Thursday y Aug. \st — The ensuing day commenced 
with light airs and thick foggy weather, the ico 
breaking a little. We managed to move the ship a 
short distance by heaving, warping, and tracking 
through some small lanes of water. In the middle 
of the day both vessels made fast again to a floe^ 
to await another opening ; which, at six P. M., pre- 
sented itself. Captain Forsyth and myself had been 
dining on board the " Felix," and were, consequently, 
there at this time. Speedily, however, we were all 
at work, driving and forcing our respective ships 
through every crack in the ice that presented itself 



YOUNG ICE. 145 

and that promised a lead in the right direction. It 
was work hard, and with a will, in board, and on 
the ice, until half-past ten; when we had again to 
make fast ; though, this time, with something like 
clear water around us. We had come through an 
enormous rent in the solid floe, which on either side 
of us presented the exact appearance of a cut canal. 
The men got on to it and tracked us along, singing, 
as usual, their wild songs as they tramped, tramped 
to the tune. Both ships' companies joined to one 
rope, we making a line fast to the stem of the "Felix" 
for a tow. The united voices of the two crews, as 
they shouted aloud the chorus of each song, made the 
« welkin ring again." 

This evening we began to find that the young ice, 
which now formed fast at night, was something of 
an impediment to us, both in towing and in boat 
service. It was about three quarters of an inch or 
an inch thick ; and this, of course, presented enough 
resistance to lessen the ship's way when towed, and 
to give a boat some trouble when pulling. The cold, 
in the fogs, too, was very raw and severe ; icicles 
hanging in large masses on the rigging. 

At midnight I went into the " crow's nest" to en- 
joy another lovely and sunlit night. It was beautiful 
beyond all description. 

I observed Captain Austin's vessels, and Mr. 

L 



146 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

Penny's two ships, all much nearer to us, though 
apparently fast in the ice. To our surprise, also, we 
made out two brigantines to the southward, and 
boldly pushing their way towards us. These, of 
course, could be no other than the Americans, the 
" Advance " and " Eescue ; " and such we afterwards 
found them to be. 

Friday 2d. — This morning we moved a short 
distance; tracking to the eastward ; and at noon made 
fast near some very large bergs. At eight p. m. we 
again moved, and, by dint of heavy labour in warping, 
heaving, &c., got away from the bergs, and hove 
through some loose ice into a hole of water. At 
midnight we made fast to a floe among heavy pieces, 
and evidently older, because much thicker, ice than 
any we had yet seen. 

As night advanced, our position became exceedingly 
dangerous, in consequence of the movements of the 
large pieces and floes around us. 

Saturday Sd. — If there was danger on the past 
Sunday there was still more now, on account of the 
heavier and worse kind of ice about us. Several 
bergs and rugged hummocks were in very close quar- 
ters to us. At four A. M. we had again to unship the 
rudder ; and this we could hardly do, in consequence 
of being completely beset. The " Felix " was just 
ahead ; but not a particle of water anywhere near 



DANGEROUS POSITION. 147 

or around us could be seen. Several times both ves- 
sels were in extreme danger ; and once we sustained 
a rather heavy pressure, being canted over on the 
starboard side most unpleasantly. But the " Prince 
Albert" stood it w6ll; although it was painfully 
evident that should the heavy outer floes still keep 
setting in upon those which enclosed us, nothing could 
save her. To describe our position at this moment it 
will be only necessary to observe that both vessels 
were as completely in the ice as if they had been 
dropped into it from on high and frozen there. It 
had been impossible for me to sleep during the night 
in consequence of the constant harsh grating sound that 
the floes caused as they slowly and heavily moved along 
or upon the ship's side, crushing their outer edges with 
a most unpleasant noise close to my ear. My sleeping 
berth was half under and half above the level of the 
water, when the ship was on an even keeL In the morn- 
ing I heard the grating sound still stronger and close 
to me : I threw myself off* the bed and went on deck. 
From the deck, I jumped on to the ice, and had a 
look how it was serving the poor little vessel Under 
her stem I perceived large masses crushed up in a 
frightful manner, and with terrific force, suflScient, I 
thought, to have knocked her whole counter in. My 
only wonder was how she stood it ; but an explana- 
tion, independent of her own good strength, was 

L 2 



148 VOYAGE or THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

soon presented to me In the fact that the floe I was 
standing upon was moving right round, and grinding 
in its progress all lesser pieces in its way. This was 
the cause of safety to ourselves and the " Felix." 
Had the heavy bodies of ice Been impelled directly 
towards us, as we at first feared they would be, in- 
stead of passing us in an angular direction, we should 
both, most assuredly, have been crushed like an egg- 
shell The very bergs^ or the floating ones, near 
which we had been fast on the previous day, were 
aiding in the impetus given by the tide or current to 
the masses now in motion ; and most providential was 
it that no wind was blowing from the adverse quarter 
at the time. 

Upon each side of the ship the floes were solid 
and of great thickness, and pressing closely npon her 
timbers. Under the bow, several rough pieces had 
been thrown up nearly as high as the level of the 
bowsprit, and these were in constant change, as the 
larger masses drove by them. 

I ascended on deck, and found all the preparations 
for taking to the Ice, if necessary, renewed. Spirits 
of wine, for portable fuel, had been drawn o£^ and 
placed handy ; bags of bread, pemmican, &c., were 
all in readiness; and nothing was wanting in the 
event of a too heavy squeeze coming. We could 
perceive that, sooner or later, a collision between the 



ICE IN FBABPUL MOTION. 149 

two floes^ the one on our larboard and the other 
on oiir starboard side^ must take place, as the former 
had not nearly so much motion as the latter; 
but where this collision would occur was impossible 
to say. Between the "Felix" and us, the passage 
was blocked principally by the same sort of pieces 
that I have mentioned as lying under our bow ; 
and astern of us were several small bergs that 
might or might not be of service in breaking the 
collision. Very fortunately they proved the former ; 
for, presently, I could perceive the floe on our star- 
board hand, as it came crushing and grinding all 
near it, in its circular movement, catch one of its 
extreme corners on a large block of ice a short dis- 
tance astern, and by the force of the pressure drive it 
into the opposite floe, rending and tearing all before 
it ; while at the same time itself rebounded, as it 
were, or swerved on one side, and glided more softly 
and with a relaxed pressure past us. This was the 
last trial of the kind our little " Prince" had to en- 
dure; .for afterwards a gradual slackening of the 
whole body of ice took place, and at ten it opened to 
the southward. We immediately shipped the rudder, 
and began heaving, warping, and tracking the ship 
through the loose masses that lay in that, the only 
direction for us now to pursue, if we wished to get 
clear at all. The " Felix" took the lead, and we fol- 

L 3 



150 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

lowed close in her wake ; so close, indeed, were we 
obliged to keep, that our bowsprit was frequently 
over her taffrail, and her yacht, the ** Mary," under 
our bows. As before, a tow-rope for us was made 
fast, and all our hands were sent on board to render 
mutual assistance in getting both vessels through the 
passage we were trying for. But our hopes were 
soon cut short by the ice again rapidly closing at 
noon. Once more we had to unship the rudder, get 
boats on the adjoining floe, and bear some heavy 
pressure occasionally during the hour it continued. 
Most singularly, and in curious forms, did masses of 
ice rise up, apparently from the sea, as the various 
pieces were forced against each other. I stood wit- 
nessing them with great interest for a long time; 
but at one p.m. we were again able to move a few 
yards by warping. This, however, was all we could 
effect; and we, finally, made fast to a large floe 
among heavy cross ice, with all the various pieces of 
it in motion around us. The " Felix," now, with the 
assistance of all hands from each ship, hauled her 
yacht upon the ice, where she would be in greater 
safety. At nine the fog cleared away, but no water 
was visible in any direction. Captain Austin's and 
Penny's ships, as also the American's, Lieutenant 
De Haven, were in much about the same position; 
and all, apparently, like ourselves, close beset. 



ALL THE SHIPS BESET. 151 

Sunday 4th. — The next day was calm and clear ; 
but not the slightest prospect of any opening in the 
ice. Both of our vessels were close beset; and 
though the weather was warm in the sun, it was yet 
unpleasantly cold in a fog which we had during the 
latter portion of the past night. Any clothes that 
were hung up to dry, out of the sun, would freeze ; 
and it was useless to think of doing aught with them, 
but to let them take their chance until a fine warm 
day came again. This was the case after nine A.M. 
to-day ; and, consequently, bedding was aired, and 
every species of garment that had got wet, placed in 
the rigging to dry. At ten p.m. I accompanied Mr. 
Abernethy, Sir John Ross's ice-master, and old fol- 
lower in his former voyage, and Mr. Severight, the 
mate of the " Felix," across the ice to the N. E., in 
search of a lead which appeared to exist in that di- 
rection. After a walk of three or four miles we 
came upon a sheet of water of no great breadth, but 
apparently trending away in both directions as we 

wanted it. We traced it back, on our return, to its 
apparent termination near a large iceberg ; and then 

got on board our respective ships about midnight. 
During the walk, I had the pleasure of an interesting 
chat with Abernethy, wherein I heard a great deal 
concerning the life they led, their feelings, &c., during 
the time they were shut up in the ice at Boothia. I 

L 4 



152 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

also gained some valuable information from him re- 
specting the mode of wintering, and all the other little 
things necessary to be understood and be acquainted 
with, preparatory to its taking place; and I have 
no doubt that I should, personally, have found the 
benefit of the advice he kindly gave me, had we win- 
tered there. 

As after this we made considerably more pro- 
gress, I may as well here observe, that during the 
past fortnight, with all the incessant toil we had gone 
through, we had made only twelve miles on our direct 
course to the northward ! But we afterwards found 
that the government ships, and Penny's, had not 
done even so well ; having only made thirty miles 
in five weeks ! From this; the reader may have 
some idea of the vexatious delays and harassing work 
that exist in getting through the ice. 

Our position this day at noon was in lat. IST 18' 
18'' N., and long. 60** 21' W., with Brown's Ishinds 
bearing S. E. by E. half E. The land was every- 
where nearly buried under enormous glaciers. 

Monday 5th. — The morning of this day was calm 
and bright, and Captain Forsyth determined to make 
an effort to get away from our present dangerous 
position. To the eastward the ice appeared slacken- 
ing ; and accordingly, at nine A. M., we cast off from 
the floe, and began the labour of the day. This 



WARM WEATHEE. 153 

consisted In moving immense pieces of ice that were 
impeding oiir way, in heaving the ship through 
narrow necks, in warping and tracking, making and 
taking in sail, and, in short, continuing incessantly 
at work as hard as we coald. The morning was 
passed in fairly dragging and forcing the vessel 
through heavy masses of loose ice. The gutta- 
percha boat and the dingey were both out, in the 
small channels of water that were presented to our 
view, to carry warps along, and to assist in removing 
impediments. The day was excessively warm; and 
as I was not only superintending the duty on the 
ice, but personally aiding in the bodily labour at- 
tending it, I soon found my heavy clothing too much 
for me. I had, fortunately, brought with me a straw 
haty though many laughed at my so doing; and I 
now found the benefit of it, and also of a light old 
Taglioniy which I donned instead of a coat. Soon 
the perspiration streamed from me, and from every 
man around me. As the Prince Albert advanced — 
and we all determined, if possible, to make her ad- 
vance, since we had moved, apparently, against the 
judgment of the "Felix," which vessel remained 
behind, still fast in her position of the day before, — - 
she pushed before her much of the loose ice which, by 
her own impetus, she had broken or removed, or which 
had been cut away or severed from the main body by 



154 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

the parties of men employed on that duty. This accu- 
mulated so much as to hinder her progress, until it 
was cleared away by some of us in the boats, which 
we lost no time in doing. Occasionally, several 
obstinate pieces, [small floes, and fragments of bergs, 
would present themselves, and stop all passage, even 
for the boats. With the latter there was no diffi- 
culty, because they could be, and were, easily hauled 
on to and over the ice wherever a flat surface was 
presented. To remove the impediment, however, 
for the ship was a task of greater labour. The 
slackest and thinnest part of the floe, or fragment, 
was cut into with the axes and chisels until some 
fortunate blow or prise of the ice-pole rent and 
loosened it : a cheering rally would then be given by 
the men who had the track-rope in their hands ; and 
responding to the commander's brisk cry, as, standing 
in the bows, he sang out, " Now then, lads ! Hurrah, 
my boys ! send her down upon it ! " she would come 
with a powerful impetus full upon the part thus 
broken, and rarely fail to send it flying in all di- 
rections. The shock, in striking such large masses 
of ice so determinedly and with such force, never 
once hurt her, so well was she fortified in her 
bows. 

During the whole morning we were thus engaged ; 
and at last, with a rally, hove through some heavy 



UNDER SAIL AGAIN. 155 

pieces, and got Into clearer water, near the berg which 
Abernethy and myself had noticed as the apparent 
termination of a lead. There was no passage by this 
enormous block of ice without keeping very close, 
almost too close, to it ; but this it was necessary to 
do if we desired to get on; and accordingly, with 
due care and attention, the vessel was towed gently 
past it, the huge monster towering above us to a 
height almost inconceivable for such a solid mass. 
A warp was made fast to one of its low points, and 
by the aid of it we assisted the boats in getting the 
more speedily clear of its neighbourhood. This done, 
we next came into a larger space of water, trending 
towards the north; and though it was calm below, 
yet, as a faint air might be playing aloft, it was 
determined to make all sail ; which was immediately 
done, and we again had the satisfaction of seeing the 
Prince Albert under her canvass. This, however, did 
not last long, for at two p. m. we were once more 
among loose ice, with our sail taken in, and all hands 
engaged tracking and warping. It was now seen that 
the lead we had perceived last night was in a great 
measure filled with sconce pieces, and through and 
around them we must make our way. This we en- 
deavoured to do much in a similar manner to our 
labours of the forenoon. Once we got completely 
jammed between two of these pieces, and for a long 



156 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

time did we vainly try to extricate ourselves : it was 
at least an hour and a half that we were employed in 
cutting away the edges of the ice on either side of 
this vexatious nip to permit us to pass. A rugged 
tongue on the one side and a rough point on the other 
completely fixed us. AxeSy chisels^ polesy and claws 
were all brought into play to operate upon the 
stubborn difficulty. An inch or two would, perhaps^ 
be gained, as the strain upon our warps was con- 
stantly maintained; but when most expectant and 
hopeful, something would drive us back again. 

It was here that I received a slight accident, which, 
however, might have been attended with worse con- 
sequences, not only to myself but to others, than it 
really was. In trying to force our way through the 
nip, it had been necessary to hook the iron claws on 
to the outer edges of the ice ahead on both sides, 
and by means of stout warps attached to them, and 
brought on board amidships, to heave at the windlass, 
and keep, as I have already said, a steady strain up. 
Two or three of the men, with myself, were standing 
on one of these warps, and by our united weight 
trying to spring the vessel ahead, when the claw 
gave way, and, flying backward, first broke its full 
force against the ship's side, and then struck me 
heavily on my knee. For an instant I could hardly 
stand the blow, and life seemed to have been taken 



OPEN WATER DISCERNED. 157 

from me ; but the painful sensation soon passed away^ 
nor did I experience any trouble from it until an 
hour afterwards^ when the vessel had got clear, and 
the excitement was over. I doctored myself, — 
thankful it was not one of the men who had received 
it instead of me ; and after two or three days' un- 
pleasantness with it, I had no further trouble. 

At five P.M. we were obliged to make fast to a floe, 
unable to get any further, having already accom- 
plished the best day's work we had had for some time 
past. About seven the " Felix " came up with us, 
making fast a short distance astern. Captain Forsyth 
went on boards of her; and, after tea, I took the 
dingey f and for curiosity, as well as for our advantage, 
I pulled and sculled myself some short distance 
ahead, to observe what chances there were in our 
favour. I found that, after passing one little difficulty, 
we should be able to go on for probably several hours ; 
and, upon returning, I immediately ascended to the 
"crow's nest," to see how the leads extended. To my 
delight, I could perceive open water for several miles 
beyond the lead I had noticed in the boat. Captain 
Forsyth came on board and gave immediate orders 
for moving the ship, as the same favourable circum- 
stances had been seen by the " Felix," and she was 
about getting under weigh. We were soon on the 
start again, all hands at first tracking on the ice, and 



158 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

then warping through large sconce pieces until past 
midnight. A light northerly breeze, and the young 
ice forming, somewhat impeded us in this effort ; but 
we managed to gain the position we desired, and 
found, when we made fast, that we had again dis- 
tanced the " Felix," which vessel, at midnight, was far 
astern among several loose pieces. There was not 
one of us but was glad of our bed that night. 



159 



CHAP. XIII. 

SUPERIOR SAILING QUALITIES OF THE *< PRINCE ALBERT." 

STOPPED BY AN ENORMOUS BERG. VAST NUMBER OF 

BIRDS. — SEALS. — SAILORS SKYLARKING ON THE ICE 

FORCE THROUGH A CRACK IN THE ICE TO OPEN WATER. 
— PASS CLOSE TO CAPTAIN AUSTIN'S FLEET. — HEAVE TO 

IN A FOG. CLEARER WEATHER. THE GOVERNMENT 

SHIPS, IN TOW OF THE STEAMERS, PASS US. — COM- 
MUNICATE WITH THEM. — GET FIXED AMONG LARGE 
"sconce" pieces. — UNDER A PRESS OF SAIL BEAR 
DOWN UPON AND BREAK A NECK OF ICE. 

Tuesday ^th. — The morning presented a light north- 
erly breeze, and clear weather. At half-past three we 
found the ice closing in upon us astern, and, ac- 
cordingly, shifted our berth, having plenty of [room 
to do so. At five a. m. we perceived it still closing, 
and, as the " Felix " by this time had worked up near 
us, Captain Forsyth made sail into the large hole of 
water we had seen to the north-east. It was quite a 
treat to feel the little craft in motion under us again, 
as she heeled over to the breeze in beating to wind- 
ward, and flew round on the other tack when going 
about. At eight we weathered a sconce piece in our 



160 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

way, and then stood on to the northward, with the 
wind somewhat favouring us. The superior sailing 
qualities of the Prince Albert were again evinced 
this morning, for she very speedily left the " Felix " 
far astern ; and at noon, she was lost to sight, bearing 
south, and near some bergs that we had cleared. We 
now stood right on in plenty of water for the land- 
Jloe observed right ahead. The wind was fair, the 
day beautiful and clear, and with a flowing sheet we 
flew across the smooth waters at a splendid rate- 
Several berffs were passed, one of which was most re- 
markable, having a dark cavern in its side. The 
breeze, however, died away about noon; and the 
boats were again put into use, towing. There was a 
fine lead observed in the proper direction, and all the 
other vessels were seen, apparently striving to reach 
it, like ourselves. In such case we thought it highly 
injudicious to wait for the " Felix'' this time, as we 
had so often done before, and therefore determined to 
press on while the chance was open before us. A 
delay of an hour or so might close that chance against 
us; and therefore away went the little "Prince" 
again, full of life and spirits, with every stitch of sail 
set alow and aloft, and boats out to pull her on. At 
three p. m. some sconce pieces were in our way, and I 
was sent with four men to open a passage between 
them. The glorious run of so many miles^ that we 



STOPPED BY A LARGE BEHG. 161 

had already made this day, gave to every one of ub 
new strength and powers, and an opening was soon 
made, through which our vessel speedily was towed. 
Some large bergs were now observed before us, but 
there was sufficient water to get round them. By track- 
ing, towing, and sailing, we accomplished this, though 
with difficulty, in consequence of the strong tide or 
currents that swept around each comer. At seven p. M. 
we found our passage stopped by another large berg, 
which joined itself to the land-floe on the one side, 
and to a sconce piece on the other. We were, there- 
fore, obliged to make fast to the ice, and await an 
opening. Immediately we had made fast I was 
directed to take the boat away and examine the neck 
of ice that adjoined the berg and barred our progress, 
and see what water was beyond. The second mate 
accompanied me. After pulling for about two-thirds 
of a mile we came up to the berg, and found that the 
flat ice which joined it, was closely cemented to its 
side, and would in all probability only be removed by 
some great change in the whole state of the ice 
around. As it was the dingey we had, I directed it to 
be dragged over the neck, to the other side, where 
I again entered it, and after a short pull found a 
splendid sheet of open water, expanding far away in 
the direction we wished to take. Captain Austin's 
vessels were very close to us, being not above three or 



162 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

four miles off; but Penny's I could not, then^ make 
out ; though I afterwards did so from the " crow's 
nest " in another direction, he having, apparently, got 

away to the northward. I returned to the ship at 

• 

ten o'clock, unable to give any hope of a passage 
for us through the neck, at present. Innumerable 
quantities of birds, especially the little auk {Alca 
alle\ and the doveca (^Colymhus gryUe) were now 
seen in every direction. They were to be observed, 
in thousands, on the wing, and in the water, and 
often on pieces of ice, where they were clustered 
together so thick that scores might have been shot at 
a time by two or three fowling-pieces. They are 
great divers, and it is very difficult to get them, if 
they retain any life after being shot. 

Wednesday 1th. — The follo\ving morning we ob- 
served Sir John Ross coming up in our track of 
yesterday, the wind blowing light, with alternate 
calms, and clear and hazy weather. At eight A. m. 
we sent the boat again to examine the passage ; but 
found it still unopen. At noon the " Felix" was not 
far off on the other side of one of the bergs that we 
had passed ; and at eight P. H. she made fast to the 
floe close to us. 

During the day the boat had been sent several 
times to examine the passage, but found it just the 
same. A crack in the sconce piece appeared to me to 



SKYLARKING ON THE ICE, 163 

be enlarging ; but It was not yet sufficiently open to 
admit of our passing through it. 

Thursday Sth. — The ensuing day brought no 
change in the state of the ice, and, consequently, we 
could make no progress. At six p. m. we moved 
nearer to the neck to await its opening ; for, the pieces 
in our immediate neighbourhood were being stirred 
about in a restless manner by the action of the tide, 
which set them, bergs and all, backwards and for- 
wards, as if under some mechanical agency. 

A shooting party from both ships crossed the ice, 
and in the course of a short time killed 150 birds; 
many of which, upon being afterwards cooked, 
proved most excellent eating. 

During the evening the men had a run on the 
ice close to the ship, and all sorts of frolic and active 
amusements were in request among them. The 
Esquimaux, Adam, joined in the fun, and with great 
good-humour bore all the hard knocks he chanced to 
receive in the rough games they were playing. I, 
also, amused myself by taking a triangular measure- 
ment of the enormous berg which thus so tantalizingly 
stopped our way ; and which I call the Barrier 
berg. This immense block of solid ice I found to be 
1108 feet long, 83 feet high, and about 300 broad. 
It was evidently aground, though I could not tell at 
what depth. Sir John Boss sounded with the deep 

M 2 



164 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

sea clam on the previous evening, and found bottom 
at — if I remember rightly — 300 fathoms. This was 
not far from the position of the berg ; and, if only 
half that depth be given, that would make the total 
thickness of it to be 983 feet ! This, however, is all 
mere conjecture ; although there can be no doubt that 
it was aground, and at a great depth, for it moved not 
as the others did, and had moreover a tidal mark. 
That there are bergs, even larger than this in Davis's 
Straits and Baffin's Bay may be ascertained from the 
mention made of them in all previous voyages, and in 
works on the Arctic Regions. Dr. Scoresby, speak- 
ing of them, says, " Icebergs occur in many places in 
the arctic and antarctic regions ; some of them of as- 
tonishing magnitude. In the Spitzbergen Sea, in- 
deed, they are neither numerous nor bulky, compared 
with those of other regions ; the largest I ever met 
with in this quarter not exceeding 1000 yards in 
circumference, and 200 feet in thickness. But in 
Hudson's Strait, Davis's Strait, and Baffin's Bay, 
they occur of a prodigious size. Ellis describes them 
as sometimes occurring of the thickness of 500 or 
600 yards, Frobisher saw one iceberg which was 
judged to be " near fourscore fathoms above water." 
One berg is described by Captain Ross (the dimen- 
sions of which were given by Lieutenant Parry) 
as having nine unequal sides, as being aground in 



ICEBERGS IN BAFFIN'S BAY. 165 

sixty-one fathoms, and as measuring 4,169 yards 
(paces) long, 3,689 yards broad, and 51 feet high. 
The weight of this iceberg, taken at somewhat 
smaller dimensions, was estimated, by an officer 
of the Alexander, at 1,292,397,673 tons. This 
amount, however, appears greater than the truth, 
the cubical inch of ice being taken at 240 grains, 
whereas it does not exceed 231*5 grains. The most 
abundant source of icebergs known in the arctic 
regions is Baffin's Bay. From this remarkable sea 
they constantly make their way towards the south, 
down Davis's Strait, and are scattered abroad in 
the Atlantic to an amazing extent." 

I took a rough sketch of this iceberg ; and then, 
after one more look at the crack I had observed In 
the ice, and which appeared still enlarging, I retired 
for the night. 

Friday^ ^th. — On the following morning an open- 
ing was presented exactly where on Wednesday I 
thought and mentioned it would take place. At 
six A. M. with light airs and a fine clear day, the 
ship was tracked through, into the large sheet of 
water I have already spoken of, and which still 
abounded with innumerable rotgls and seals. All 
sail was now made upon both vessels, the " PrincQ 
Albert," as usual, very speedily taking the lead: 

M 3 



166 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBEBT« 

and right gallantly did the splendid little craft dash 
along, as with gentle breeze, and colours flying, at 
ten A. M. we passed Captain Austin's fleet, still beset 
at a short distance to the westward. It was our small 
size and fine sailing power which alone had enabled 
us to get up with them. We* could plainly perceive 
the blue ensign of the government ships ; and, from 
the "crow's nest" I clearly made out numbers of 
men employed very diligently on the ice, in the 
endeavour to extricate themselves. I afterwards 
learned that they were engaged in blowing up by 
means of blasting cylinders the enormous masses 
in their way ; and at this service the two steamers 
were of great assistance. Indeed, the unanimous 
opinion concerning them is that they are superior 
to anything ever yet sent into that region. From 
what I myself saw, I have not the slightest doubt 
that it will be owing mainly to their instrumentality 
that the grand objects of the expedition are car- 
ried out. I was told 6y their two gallant com- 
manders, Lieutenant Sherard Osbom and Lieutenant 
Bertie Cator, that they proved excellent vessels; 
able to resist, in an astonishing manner, the extreme 
pressure of the ice ; and capable of boldly dashing 
into the very thickest of it, when necessary. 

We found the water, that was observed yesterday 
north of us, then open, now blocked midpassage by 



HEAVE TO IN A FOG. 167 

a large sconce piece which had joined the land floe 
during the night. We were, therefore, obliged to 
work round it; which we accomplished at noon, and 
got into a fine clear water, extending for a long 
distance ahead. We first ran to the S. E. to round 
another floe ; and then, the wind dying away, were 
obliged to track ship to the northward; at which 
work, and towing, we were busily engaged until 
evening. 

A thick fog then came on, and we had to heave 
to, and await its clearance. The ** Felix " at this time 
was far astern and to leeward of us, striking for 
another lead. Penny's ships we could not see, but 
supposed them to be ahead of us behind a fleet of 
bergs that were in sight, apparently arrayed in battle 
form to meet us. 

Saturday y lOth. — The next day was one I shall 
never forget, on account of the interesting circum- 
stances attending it. Throughout the whole of it, 
light airs, calms ; and, after seven, A.M., clear weather, 
prevailed. Directly the fog sank, as the sun* rose 
most brilliantly above it, we proceeded with tracking^ 
towing^ and sailing the ship as occasion required. 
The ** Felix" we observed to leeward in a different 
lead, and working on to the north, like ourselves. 

* The readec must not forget that it never set below the 
horizon at this time. 

m4 



168 VOYAGE OP THE PEINCE ALBERT. 

At nine A. m. Captain Austin's ships were observed 
coming out from the fog, which still hung on the 
water astern of us ; the two sailing vessels in tow of 
the two steamers. They had got dear, and were in 
the same lead as ourselves. My heart bounded with 
delight. Now, thought I, every vessel is free, and 
boldly pushing onward. Heaven grant that tidings 
may shortly be heard, or traces found, of the lost 
ones, by some of us. At noon we hoisted our colours 
in deference to her Majesty's ships ; than which no 
vessels in the world ever looked more noble and more 
worthy of belonging to the service of our gracious 
Queen and our native country. Proudly they came 
on toward us, with colours flying, yards square, and 
every thing about them in that orderly, trim, and 
neat fashion so peculiar and so much to be admired 
in men of war. It was a novelty to us, in this region 
of snow, to see the black smoke issuing from the 
funnels of the two " screws," and the steam escaping 
at intervals from the valve. It was pleasing, too, to 
witness the long pendant hanging from the mast-head 
of each ship, as they neared us ; and I was very much 
gratified when at two p.m. Captain Forsyth directed 
me to proceed in the dingey to two of the vessels with 
the letters ; while he, himself, in another boat, went on 
board of the Commodore's ship the " Resolute." I was 
speedily prepared, having little to do but throw off sea 



VISIT THE GOVERNMENT SHIPS. 169 

boots and heavy apparel ; and then^ with letters all 
sorted^ and a couple of men m the boat, pushed off 
from the ship, in the wake of the captain. The two 
foremost vessels we soon found were the ** Resolute," 
Captain Horatio Austin, C.B., towed by the "In- 
trepid," Lieutenant-Commander Bertie Cator. As I 
passed the latter on my way to the " Assistance," a 
friendly salutation was exchanged, and information 
imparted to them that their letters would be imme- 
diately sent on board from the " Resolute." 

I was soon alongside of the " Pioneer," Lieutenant- 
Commander Sherard Osbom, which vessel was tow- 
ing the "Assistance," Captain Erasmus Ommanney. 
I merely exchanged a word with Lieutenant Osbom, 
and handed him the letters, without getting from the 
boat, and then dropped down to the " Assistance." 
The size and strength of this vessel positively asto- 
nished me as I brushed against her side ; and, when I 
ascended to her deck, I was even more surprised. 
But I had no time for aught but attention to what 
brought me there. I was most cordially received by 
the whole corps of oflScers, and by Captain Ommanney 
himself, whose gentlemanly kindness I shall always 
remember. I descended with him into his (compared 
with otirs) magnificent cabin, and gave him all the 
letters I had for himself, with a nautical newspaper I 
had selected from some I had brought with me. 



170 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBEBT. 

After a few moments' conversation, I was introduced 
to Lieutenant M*Clintock, — a name already well 
known, — and Dr. Donnet, the surgeon ; and by them 
speedily taken into the gun-room, where a whole 
posse of officers greeted me with the warmest cor- 
diality. Brave hearts they are, — noble-minded, 
generous, dauntless spirits,— true naval officers every 
one. May your labours meet with success, and 
may you all return in health and happiness to your 
native homes 1 How I envy you 1 even now, when 
you are, beyond all doubt, frozen in and housed for 
the winter, amidst the darkness of a night that is 
lengthened to nearly the whole twenty-four hours I 
But you have resources in your ships and in your- 
selves ; your own warm hearts and cultivated minds 
will ever keep the current of life briskly flowing. 

After partaking of the hospitality of the gun-room, 
as I had already done in the cabin, I was taken 
round the ship by Lieutenant M^Clintock, who 
pointed out to me every thing pertaining to her. 
These noble vessels have been so well described, and 
are, no doubt, so familiar to the reader, that I will say 
nothing more about them here, than that I was per- 
fectly astonished at their internal as well as external 
strength, and the comforts and conveniences attached 
to them. A heating apparatus and ventilating deck- 
lights, — so essential in all vessels proceeding to those 



THE ** ASSISTANCE." 171 

seas, — were conspicuous; a fine dining-table, and 
plenty of accommodation in the general cabin for the 
officers, while their private cabins embraced every 
convenience conducive to comfort ; the men having, 
in like manner, whatsoever was necessary for them. 
The size of the ship enabled all this to be done, 
which could never have been accomplished in a small 
vessel like the " Prince Albert ; " but, on questioning 
some of our men after they had seen and been on board 
the *^ Resolute" and ** Assistance," I found they 
preferred our own little ketch to the large three- 
masters. And singular, yet characteristic of them, 
as whalers and men of their rough stamp, was the 
reason they gave me for it : " for," said they, " we 
shouldn't like to be aboard of any ship where there's 
always a man with a stick in his hand * walking by 
the side of you, or not far off, and where there's so 
many officers." They did not understand the advan- 
tages and the excellencies of such a beautiful and 
well-organised system as is practised in the British 
Navy ; and having been used to a sort of wild, irre- 
gular life, they liked not the idea of being held in 
check by more than the number of officers they had 
been accustomed to. 

After a pleasant hour spent on board the " Assist- 

* The master at arms or ship^s corporal. 



172 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

ance," I went to the " Pioneer," where Lieutenant 
Osborn received me with all the warmth so natural 
to him. It was pleasant that we should thus meet, 
since a very short time previously he had shaken me 
by the hand in London, and, with a friendly ** good- 
bye," said, **he hoped when we should next meet 
each other, it would be among ice, and in a far colder 
region." Our idea then was that such meeting would 
only, possibly, occur somewhere in Barrow's Straits, 
or at Port Leopold ; certainly not in Melville Bay, as 
there was no anticipation of the " Prince Albert " 
overtaking the other vessels in that part of the voyage. 
But so it was ; and a good hour was passed most 
pleasantly in his company, and in that of his sur- 
geon, Dr. Pickthorn, who joined us in the cabin. 

At five P. M. I left the ** Pioneer," and proceeded 
to the "Resolute," to receive orders from Captain 
ForsytL I did not go on board, as I found him at 
the gangway preparing to leave, and in a short time 
I was despatched on my return to our own vessel. 
As the government ships had continued steaming on, 
the " Prince Albert " was nearly hull-down astern of 
them, proper advantage not having been taken of the 
winds and passages in the ice to get her on in our 
absence. We had a long puU back to her, and it was 
past seven when we got on board. The remainder of 
the evening we were tracking and towing ; there being 



GET FIXED AMONG SCONCE PIECES. 173 

now little wind. The ** Felix " was observed in a 
lead further to the westward, and endeavouring to 
get to the northward. 

Sunday, Wth. — At two A.M. we were obliged to 
make fast to a sconce piece, in consequence of the 
clear passage of yesterday being suddenly closed 
by two floes joining; thus cutting us off from 
Captain Austin's ships, which were about three miles 
ahead of us, also stopped by some heavy ice, in the 
neighbourhood of large bergs. The '* Felix " was also 
seen in advance of the other vessels ; she having, 
apparently, found open water through the whole lead 
she had taken. She was, however, fast to the floe, 
unable to get further. 

Our position was excessively annoying. It was 
possible that we might be enclosed here some 
time ; for a fresh breeze was springing up from the 
worst quarter (S. W.), and the weather was thick, 
cloudy, and cold. But we could not now help 
ourselves. 

At eleven A. m. we were obliged to move ship, and 
beat her to windward, back the way we came, in 
order to get a safer position. At three p.m. there 
was every appearance of a safe lead some distance to 
leeward of us, with only two narrow necks of ice 
intervening between it and ourselves. As the wind 
(now S.S,E.) was blowing right down upon it, and 



174 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

pretty fresh, it was determined by Captain Forsyth 
boldly to try and break through the impediment, by 
forcing the ship on it under a press of canvass. Ac- 
cordingly, all sail was set, and the ship was steered 
direct for the narrowest and most broken part of the 
neck. As this was the first and only time the 
" Prince Albert " was made to come direct upon 
the ice to break it with the force she would derive 
from a press of sail, we were all anxious to see how 
she would stand it; and right well did she bear 
the test. The two mates were aloft in the ^* crow's 
nest " to con the vessel : I was standing on the ex- 
treme point of her bow and holding on by the fore- 
stay to direct her movement when immediately upon 
the ice ; and Captain Forsyth was by the side of the 
helmsman. Every man was at some particular sta- 
tion, and ready to perform anything that was in- 
stantly required of him. Cook and steward were 
also on deck; and throughout the ship an almost 
breathless anxiety prevailed ; for, it must be remem- 
bered, it was not a large and powerful ship, but a 
small, and comparatively fragile one, that was now 
about to try of her own accord, and with her own 
strength, to break a piece of ice some feet thick 
though not very broad. On either side of her were 
heavy floes and sconce pieces ; and it required the 
greatest nicety in guiding her, that she might, in her 



BREAK A NECK OP ICE. 175 

strongest part, the bow, hit the precise spot where the 
neck was weakest, and not come upon any other part 
where she could do nothing but severely injure herself. 

On she came, at the rate of full five miles per 
hour ; gaining, as she proceeded, increased impetus, 
until she rushed towards it with a speed of at least 
eight miles in the hour. The distance from the neck 
was about a mile ; and the breeze blew steadily upon 
it. The weakest and narrowest part was that close 
to the starboaad floe, and to that our eyes were all 
directed. 

"Port! starboard! So — o — steady!" was every 
now and then bawled out with stentorian lungs from 
aloft, and as energetically and promptly repeated, by 
the captain below, to the man at the wheeL 

Presently she came close to — she was almost upon 
it — a mistaken hail from aloft would have put her 
helm a-porty and sent her crushing upon the heavy 
floe. I heard the order " a-port ;" and, before it had 
been repeated, shouted loudly, with the men around 
me, who also saw the mistake, ^^ starboard! star- 
board! hard a-starboard !^^ and the next instant, with 
a tremendous blow, that for the moment made her 
rebound and tremble, she struck the ice in the exact 
point, and caused it to rend apart in several frag- 
ments. Ice poles and boat hooks were immediately 
in request ; and myself and half a dozen men sprang 



176 VOYAGE OP THE PBIKCE ALBERT. 

Instantly over the bows, working with hands and feet 
and with aU our might in removing the broken pieces 
by pushing them ahead of the vessel ; in which labour 
she, herself, materially aided us by her own power 
pressing upon them. In a moment or two it was 
effected ; and throwing ourselves aboard again like so 
many wild cats, we prepared for the next encounter. 
This, however, proved nothing like the other. The 
first blow sent the whole of it flying in all directions ; 
and the little "Prince," as If in haughty disdain, passed 
through without once stopping, pushing aside the 
pieces as they came against her. In another moment 
or two we were In a larger sheet of water, though 
to our disappointment blocked up at the extreme end 
by small bergs and huge hummocks, which latter 
had, apparently, been thus thrown up in consequence 
of some late severe squeeze there. We were, there- 
fore, again obliged to make fast. 

I have mentioned this incident in our voyage, be- 
cause I think it Is due to every one, especially those 
who had anything to do with the building and forti- 
fying the vessel, to state how well and stoutly she bore 
it. Any ordinary vessel, or any vessel not well 
strengthened, would have had her bows crushed in 
by such a powerful shock as she received ; and there 
was not one of us who did not feel proud of her that 
day, ay, and I may say, every day, so well and 
bravely did she behave. 



177 



CHAP. XIV. 

LABORIOUS EFFORTS TO WORK THROUGH SOME HEAVY 
ICE. — SUCCEED IN GETTING CLEAR. — COME UP WITH 
CAPTAIN AUSTIN'S SHIPS AND GET A TOW. NUME- 
ROUS BERGS AND QUANTITIES OP FLOATING PIECES. — 

ALL THE VESSELS STOPPED BY A BARRIER OP ICE. 

GALLANT BEHAVIOUR OF THE STEAMERS IN ATTEMPT- 
ING TO BREAK THE BARRIER. — BLASTING THE ICE. 

REMOVE THE BARRIER AND PROCEED. — CLEARER 

WATER. — BEAUTIFUL SCENE. MIDNIGHT SUN, THE 

ARCTIC FLEET, AND CAPE MELVILLE. 

The weather for the remainder of the day was very 
thick and foggy, insomuch that we could hardly see 
two ships' length ahead. In the afternoon I walked 
around and over the nip in our way north of us ; 
and, to my vexation, found it would not be likely to 
open soon; or, if it did, it was rather too dangerous 
a passage to attempt forcing the vessel through. 
Accordingly, in a clearer interval, when the fog 
lifted for a few moments, I went aloft to the ** nest," 
and with the second mate carefully examined the 
neighbourhood around. To the westward of us we 
fancied we could perceive a lead, which would take 
us by a circuitous route towards Captain Austin's 

N 



178 VOYAGE or THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

ships ; but the fog ngain settled down, and we could 
not positively determine. I descended to the deck, 
and felt nervously anxious. If we could not ex- 
tricate ourselves this day in time -to reach the other 
vessels, we should undoubtedly lose the probability 
of their giving us a tow. Knowing the men were 
fatigued, I asked Captain Forsyth to let me 
have the dingey, and take it away to examine the 
ice. lie at once consented, though, as he said, with 
some doubt concerning the heavy fog, which might 
cause us to miss our way back. However, off I 
went, accompanied only by John Smith, the steward, 
who was an excellent boatman. We both pulled 
hard towards the direction in which I thought a 
lead would be found. The first impediment we met 
with, was where two heavy sconce pieces joined and 
formed a nip. This I saw could, with a little 
trouble, be removed ; so hauling our boat upon the 
ice, and dragging it across to more water, we again 
launched it and proceeded. For about half an hour 
we pulled on without interruption, and by the circular 
course we took I felt assured, though the fog pre- 
vented my seeing any great distance, that this was. 
the lead we wanted, and was what the second. 
mate and I had observed. Accordingly, we re- 
turned to the ship, and I at once reported to the 
captain what I had found, and what I thought. 



EFFOETS TO WORK THROUGH THE ICE. 179 

we could do if done at once. He immediately 
despatched the mate, who, as ice-master, could best 
judge, to see what he thought of it. Taking two 
men with him he started; and returned in less 
than an hour, stating that we could no doubt get 
through, but it would be better to wait awhile. 
Wait awhile, indeed ! when every moment was pre- 
cious to us, if we wished to get a tow, and so make 
way on our voyage to that part whither we were 
bound. Captain Forsyth, however, very judiciously 
saw through this waiting system, even as I had long 
before seen through it ; and accordingly turned the 
hands up to get the ship on again. This was about 
ten p. M., and as it was owing to my suggestion that 
the attempt was to be made, I felt it incumbent on 
me to make the passage as clear as possible. Ac- 
cordingly, I obtained permission to take a few men 
with me on to the ice where the nip was, and to 
remove the pieces that were there in the way. 
Axes, chisels, poles, &c. were again freely used; 
and, in a short time, the labours of the men, who 
worked with the most determined will, were suc- 
cessful, and we had the place clear, with the ex- 
ception of one piece, which was ready to push out 
the moment the vessel's bow entered. But by some 
mismovement she sided up to the nip, instead of 

coming down upon it from to windward bows on ; and, 

n 2 



180 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

the consequence was, that she gathered before her 
all the loose pieces, jamming them right in where 
we had been removing others. The principal diffi- 
culty was under her bows, where existed a great 
number of obstacles in the shape of huge lumps of 
ice that prevented her moving. I had previously 
thrown off my jacket to work more freely in my 
shirt sleeves ; and, now, with perspiration streaming 
down me I jumped, with a couple of men, on to the 
pieces, half under water, that were crushing against 
the vesseFs stem. Clinging to the bobstay or any 
standing rope that was about the bowsprit *, we all 
three with all the force we could apply, and up to our 
knees in water, began pushing aside these obstacles. 
We were enabled to clear some ; but others required 
longer time, and Captain Forsyth deemed it best that 
the effort should be renewed at a later period. Ac- 
cordingly, all hands were called on board ; and, with 
much vexation, I walked to the vessel's side, after 
again looking at the nip. While springing into the 
forechains from the edge of the floe, the ice gave 
way under me, and I was instantly up to my neck 
in water, and should have been completely imder, 
but for a rope that fortunately hung over the ship's 

* It must be remembered that our bowsprit was a " running** 
one, and did not, owing to the vessel's size, stand above five or 
six feet above the level of the water. 



COME UP WITH CAPT, AUSTIN*S SHIPS. 181 

Side. This I laid hold of; and, with the aid of two 
or three hands, who instantly rushed to my assist- 
ance, I was fairly pulled on board, with no harm 
done save having to change my dress from top to 
toe. I was very much annoyed to think we had not 
got through, and so was Captain Forsyth; and, I 
must confess, I forgot myself so far as to speak very 
reproachfully about it to the mate, to whom we 
attributed our failure. 

Monday \2th. — It was past midnight when I 
retired to rest ; and on awaking at six A. M. I found 
the vessel had been taken through the very passage 
we had laboured at, and in precisely the way she 
should have been. It was at two o'clock when this 
was done, the fog having lifted, and made it per- 
fectly clear that there was a lead as I had stated. 
When I went on deck I found the vessel working to 
windward in a moderate breeze ; and at eight A. M. we 
closed upon Captain Austin's ships, which had got 
through a passage, and were then fast to the floe, 
preparing to start again. The screws had got their 
steam up, and as we neared the '^Assistance'' we 
were hailed ; and, as I had expected, offered a tow, 
the same being given to the "Felix." We were 
just in time ; fcnr had we not been seen coming on 
towards them they must have started without us. 

An hour later would have lost us the three hundred 

V 3 



182 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

miles' tow so generously given to us. We were 
speedily in our right position, having made fast a 
tow rope the " Assistance " gave us ; and then away 
we went, forming part of as novel a picture as any 
yet seen in the Arctic Seas. 

The "Felix" was taken in tow by the "Resolute," 
and together, the whole fleet passed through heavy 
masses of loose ice and bergs to the north and north- 
west, at the rate of about four miles an hour. At 
eleven A. M. we came to a heavy nip^ and all the vessels 
had to be made fast to a floe until a passage could be 
cleared. To effect this, the screws were brought into 
play in the manner I have previously alluded to. The 
" Pioneer," Lieut.-Commander Osborn, immediately 
on casting off* the " Resolute's" tow rope, was directed 
to dash at the impediment under full power. This she 
did boldly and fearlessly ; rushing stem on, and fairly 
digging her bows into it in a most remarkable manner. 
Backing instantly astern, and then again going ahead, 
she performed the same manoeuvre, fairly lifting her- 
self up on end, like a prancing war-horse. But this 
time the nip was too heavy to be so broken ; though 
both the steamers had previously cleared many 
similar impediments in that manner. It was now, 
however, necessary to resort to other means; and, 
accordingly, parties from every ship were sent on the 
ice to assist in blowing it up, and removing the frag- 



VESSELS STOPPED BY BAEEIER OP ICE. 183 

merits as they got loosened. The same plan as that, 
I believe, adopted in blasting rocks, was here pursued. 
Powder was sunk to a certain depth, a slow match 
applied, and at a given signal ignited. Due time 
was allowed ; and then the enormous masses would 
be seen in convulsive movement, as though shaken 
by a volcanic eruption, until piece upon piece was 
sent in the air, and the larger bodies were completely 
rent into innumerable fragments. The steamers then 
darted forward, and with warps dragged out the 
immense blocks that had been thus dissevered. One 
of these blocks (more like a small berg than aught 
else) was brought alongside of the "Assistance" while 
I was on board of her, in the gun-room. It was hollow 
at the top, and contained some excellent water, which 
was conveyed on board to replenish the stock. 

Several efforts had to be made by blasting and 
forcing the ice, before a passage could be cleared; 
and during the whole time it was quite a pleasure 
to see how both officers and men worked at it. 
Captain Austin himself was as busy as any one ; 
directing, and handling, and unceasingly working. 
Neither falls, nor a rough knock now and then, did 
he care for; but maintained his post on the floes 
and pieces of ice until he had made a passage for his 
own ships, and the two little ones he had so kindly 
taken in charge. 

II 4 



184 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBEBT. 

It was about six P.M. before the passage, with all 
the labour that was bestowed upon it, was cleared ; 
and then every vessel, again taking her station, once 
more pursued a course along the land to the north- 
north-west, or wherever leads in that direction pre- 
sented themselves. 

But we were not yet clear of all stoppages from 
the ice, although the water had, in many places, 
become more open. Several times it was necessary 
for the leading ships to cast off tow-ropes ; and, in 
one case especially, allow the "Pioneer" to shoot ahead 
and break a neck that seemed likely to be incon- 
venient ; and a fine sight it was to see her doing it. 

In the evening, with a moderate breeze from the 
north, we were advancing onward, every one on 
the alert. Often did I notice Captain Ommanney 
running up aloft, and out upon the topsail-yard- 
arm, glass in hand, like a young reefer, intent upon 
personally examining the way before him ; and ably, 
did he appear to be seconded in this, and similar 
duties, by those whom he commanded. Constantly 
pacing the bridge that runs across the quarter-deck, 
I could see the officer of the watch, attired in the 
naval undress uniform, and heavy sea-boots, peer- 
ing aloft, a-low, and around him ; and it was mid- 
night ere I thought of leaving the deck to go below 
myself, so wrapt had I become in meditation. 



BEAUTIFUL SCENE. 185 

I have before made mention of the remarkable 
stillness which may be observed at midnight in these 
regions ; but not until now did it come upon me 
with such force^ and in such a singular manner. 
I cannot attempt to describe the mingled sensa- 
tions I experienced, of constant surprise and amaze- 
ment at the extraordinary occurrence then taking 
place in the waters I was gazing upon, and of re- 
newed hope, mellowed into a quiet, holy, and re- 
verential feeling of gratitude towards that mighty 
Being who, in this solemn silence, reigned alike 
supreme, as in the busy hour of noon when man is 
eager at his toil, or the custom of the civilised world 
gives to business active life and vigour. Save the 
distant humming noise of the engine working on 
board of the steamer towing us, there was no sound 
to be heard denoting the existence of any living 
thing, or of any animate matter. Yet there we were, 
perceptibly, nay, rapidly, gliding past the land and 
floes of ice, as though some secret and mysterious 
power had been set to work to carry us swiftly away 
from those vexatious, harassing, and delaying portions 
of our voyage, in which we had already experienced 
so much trouble and perplexity. The leading vessels 
bad passed all the parts where any further difficulty 
might have been apprehended, and this of course 



186 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBEBT. 

gave to us in the rear a sense of perfect security for 
the present. All hands^ therefore, except the middle 
watch on deck, were below in our respective vessels ; 
and, as I looked forward ahead of us, and beheld the 
long line of masts and rigging that rose up from each 
ship before me, without any sail set, or any appsr- 
rent motion to propel such masses onward, and with- 
out a single human voice to be heard around, it did 
seem something wonderful and amazing I And yet, 
it was a noble sight : six vessels, — varyuig in size, 
strength, and equipment, from the huge hull of the 
powerful man-of-war, to the humble and lowly private 
ketch ; alike varying in their build and sailing quali- 
ties, from the lofty three-master to the single-sparred 
cutter*, acting as a tender to a schooner, but a size 
or two larger, — square sails and fore and aft sails, — 
pinnaces and barges, whale-boats and light>boatd; 
with every new invention in the art of steaming to 
aid the one class, while late discoveries and useful 
plans were brought into use in gutta percha and 
inflated skins to aid the latter class, — were casting 
their long shadows across the smooth surface of the 
passing floes of ice, as the sun, with mellowed light. 



* The " Mary," of twelve tons, which had been towed by Sir 
John Ross across the Atlantic astern of the " Felix." 



MIDNIGHT SUN — CAPE MELVILLE. 187 

and gentler, but still beautiful, lustre, was soaring 
through the polar sky, at the back of Melville's Cape, 
already on his way to begin the journey of another 
day. Yes, it was a noble sight : it was a sight that 
gendered in the heart the loftiest feelings ; it made 
one proud of one's self, and of every other man 
that was connected with the vision then in view. 
Ay, in truth it was a noble sight ; and well could 
I look upward to the streaming pendant of my own 
dear country that hung listlessly from the mast- 
head of the " Assistance," and feel the highest satis- 
faction in my breast that I, too, was one of her 
children, and could boast myself of being born in 
her own free soil, under her own revered and idolised 
flag. But even as I beheld that listless symbol 
of my country's name, pendant from the lofty truck, 
my glance was directed higher ; and as it caught the 
pale blue firmament of heaven, still in this midnight 
hour divested of star or moon that shine by night, 
and brightened by the sun; my heart breathed a 
prayer that He, who dwells far beyond the ken of 
mortal eye, would deign to grant that the attempt 
ow making should not be made in vain, but tha 
those whom we were now on our way to seek might 
be found and restored to their home and sorrowing 
friends ; and that, until then, full support and strength 



188 VOYAGE OP THE PBINCE ALBERT. 

might be afforded them. Other thoughts then rapidly 
filled my mind^ — of my own domestic ties and home ; 
but the moment was too happy and full of joyous 
hope to do aught than think cheerfully and brightly 
of all things ; so, with one more glance around, I too 
went below, and in a short time more also sank 
into rest. 



189 



CHAP. XV. 

CAPE YORK. — VISIT THE SHORE. — COMMUNICATION WITH 
THE NATIVES. — CALOOSl. — AN ESQUIMAUX POSTMAN. 
— ALADOONgX. — DESIRE TO CIVILISE ONE OP THE 

NATIVE BOYS. — THOUGHTS ON THE SUBJECT. 

AMUSEMENTS ON THE ICE. SLEDGES. — MEETING BE- 
TWEEN '*ADAM*' AND THE CAPE YORK NATIVES. — 
INFORMATION OBTAINED. — RETURN TO THE SHIPS. 

The following day, Tuesday 13th, was beautiful 
in the extreme. A light air from the northward, 
in the early part, proved no hindrance to our 
direct progress along the land ; for the order of 
sailing, or rather steaming, was still the same as 
yesterday. After breakfast, I went on board the 
" Assistance," to give Captain Ommanney and the 
oflBcers a parcel of newspapers from those which the 
Proprietors of the " Morning Herald" had, with their 
usual kindness, sent us, and which we purposely got 
up yesterday from the lower hold, where they had 
been stowed. While waiting there a few moments, 
it was reported that some natives could be seen 
upon the snow, under the cliffs of Cape York, 
abreast of which we now were. I returned to the 
" Albert," and Captain Forsyth at once determined 



190 TOYAGE OF THE FBINCE ALBEBT. 

to open a communication with these people^ ehould 
the Government ships heave to for a similar purpose. 
A signal was hoisted from the " Assistances^ which^ 
in a short time, was responded to by the " Resolute;** 
and our boat, containing the captain and myself, with 
a good crew, started for the shore the moment we 
observed that the order to communicate had been 
given, and that the " Assistance," with the " Intre- 
pid," Lieut. Bertie Cator, were rounding to. We 
waited a little astern of the former vessel until Cap- 
tain Ommanney's boat should precede us; but it was. 
decided that the steamer should run close in, while 
the other two vessels stood on their course. Ac- 
cordingly, in company with Captain Ommanney and 
some of his oflScers, we proceeded on board the ** In- 
trepid," and, in a quarter of an hour, were alongside 
the ice, which lined the coast, and formed the only 
sort of beach to be found there. The great object 
we had in trying to communicate with these people 
on shore was to see if any tidings could possibly be 
gleaned from them respecting the missing ships or 
crews under Sir John Franklin's orders ; or of the 
" North Star." It has been thought by many ac- 
customed to the dangers of Melville Bay that, after 
all, the "Erebus" and " Terror" never got through 
it, and were stopped on their voyage in this place. 
But I merely give this as a remark frequently made 



VISIT THE SHOEE. 191 

by those who talked of the subject on board of 
those vessels we fell in with during our voyage, 
and not as any opinion of my own. With regard to 
the " North Star," it was more probable that some- 
thing might be known ; and, indeed, it was always 
my practice, whenever up aloft in the "nest," to 
examine well and carefully the whole coast as we 
passed it, so that nothing should escape our notice 
that could be seen. In the present instance I was 
not only desirous to have communication with some 
human being inhabiting this dreary land, for the 
purpose mentioned ; but I was also glad of the oppor- 
tunity thus afforded of seeing and talking to some of 
the race called by Sir John Koss, in his first voyage, 
" Arctic Highlanders ;" this being the place for them. 
And such a place for Highlanders, or Lowlanders, or 
any other human beings to exist in, can never be 
rightly imagined by those who have not been here. 
I have already stated that the aspect of this country 
is sterile in the extreme. Indeed, bare rock alone, 
— in numerous cases covered with mountains of 
snow, — is the only land, along the entire coast, that 
IS visible. In the background are seen tremendous 
glaciers, extending for miles and miles in length, 
and rising to a height far above anything in the 
front of the picture ; while, down the valleys, run 
solid streams of frozen snow, rushing occasionally 



192 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

' with the. force of an avalanche into the open water, 
or breaking through the " floes" attached to the land, 
and forming those enormous bergs which are met 
with, throughout Melville Bay, in numbers. Not a 
speck of anything like vegetation is visible; not the 
smallest signs of aught that could support animal 
life. And yet here, in this the almost furthest ex- 
treme of northern land yet touched by civilised man, 
are to be found some of those strange beings belong- 
ing to the Esquimaux tribe. 

The moment we had landed on the ice, two of the 
natives came running towards us. It was the first 
view I had had of these singular creatures on their 
own native shore. While some of the officers were 
engaged trying to get information out of them, I ob- 
served that one seemed of a more inquisitive nature 
than the other, and that he was withal more pliable, 
and capable of yielding to impressions. This man's 
name was afterwards ascertained to be " CalooscL^^ 
as well as it can be written down from the guttural 
way of pronouncing their words which this people 
have. He was, comparatively speaking, a fine-looking 
young man, and indeed, like all his fellows, always 
upon the grin ; I therefore more particularly attached 
myself to him : but all that any of us could glean 
from him or his companion, was very trifling. I tried 
him, myself, by signs and dumb representations ; and 



COMMUNICATION WITH THE NATIVES. 193 

it certaiDly appeared that both of them bore strongly 
upon that part of my inquiry which by illustration 
and pointing to the officers' uniforms, related to any 
vessels or strangers having been seen by them. 
While we were all thus engaged, another man was 
observed coming rapidly and eagerly over the ice to- 
wards us. He was dragging a sledge with him, but 
without any dogs. Upon his arrival, he immediately 
handed a document, well taken care of, and wrapped 
in a fold of sealskin. This paper was at once passed 
to Captain Ommanney, and ascertained to be merely 
a notice from Captain Penny ; who, it appeared, had 
called at this place the day before, but had gleaned 
no intelligence respecting either the " North Star " 
or Sir John Franklin. We concluded, therefore, 
that there was nothing to be gained here, and that 
the faint idea we had already imbibed from the 
natives apparently understanding the uniform, bore 
no reference to anything but what was now ex- 
plained concerning Captain Penny. It will be 
seen, however, that there was something more in 
the matter than we at that time thought of. The 
bearer of the despatches was a much older and taller 
man than the other two, and he was, moreover, far 
from being so good-looking. His hair was more 
ragged, and his features furrowed ; though the same 
solidity of flesh upon his face and person was appa- 



194 VOYAGE OF THE PBINCE ALBEBT. 

rent. He evidently seemed conscious of the im- 
portant position he there held, as her Majesty's 
Arctic postman; though, poor fellow, neither her 
Majesty, nor the various officers around him were, 
to his view, anything more than common persons ; 
but, as usual with them all, he showed not the 
slightest signs of emotion, either of pleasure, or 
pride, or satisfaction. His name, we elicited, was 
" Chcepchow," as near as I could get at its true pro- 
nunciation, and he might have been somewhere about 
from thirty-six to forty years old. The other two I 
should have put down for young men from eighteen 
to twenty years of age. 

Captain Ommanney at once retired to the cabin 
of the steamer, to write a despatch and attach it 
to the other. Meanwhile, several, to me new and 
interesting, matters were occurring at the same mo- 
ment. First, there had been another native arrival 
on the scene in the shape of a little chubby- 
faced, goodlooking boy of about ten years old. Of 
him I shall speak presently. Then there landed, in 
the midst of all our consultations and examinations. 
Commander Phillips and four men from the " Felix,** 
in her boat, bringing with him " Adam," Sir John 
Ross's interpreter. Next, and it was as much as I 
could do to satisfy my curiosity by attending to all, 
there was a great deal going on aboard of the 
steamer, as well as upon the ice ; and, lastly, somQ 



AN ESQUIMAUX POSTMAN. 195 

sleighing with the Esquimaux's sledge had com- 
menced. As I was occasionally here, there, and 
everywhere, anxious to observe all, and glean all that 
I could, it was only piecemeal, as it were, that any- 
thing came to my hand. I will, however, mention a 
few of the incidents connected with our stay there. 

In the first place, my attention was greatly taken 
by the little fellow who had last arrived. He was as 
fine a chubby-faced boy as I would wish to see ; with 
features well and evenly formed, a fine set of teeth, 
brilliant eyes, and hair not yet grown into that long 
lank form which seemed to be the prevalent fashion 
among his people. Like his elders, he was dressed 
in the usual slender seal- skin garb, and from what 
I could understand, he seemed to claim for his 
father our friend the postman. Attracted towards 
him by an impidse which had all along led me 
to try to get into the good graces of any of these 
strange people, especially the youthful ones, I 
soon was engaged in various manoeuvres to make 
him comprehend me. I tried his weight, and 
found him to be about twice as heavy as an or- 
dinary boy of the same height and apparent age 
would weigh in England. Caloosd I tried in like 
manner, but found it very difficult to lift him at alL 
I soon contrived to get from my young prot^g^ his 

name, which, after his several times repeating, and 

o 2 



196 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

my calling him by it, to make sure, I found to be 
Aladoonga, This done, I next tried to get a few 
words from him, that I might remember and under- 
stand, and which would serve to open a commu- 
nication between us ; but he seemed more shy than 
the others, and though very friendly with me, yet was 
not so full of that mirth and pleasure which seemed 
to animate Caloosa, I felt very desirous to make 
this boy in some measure attached to me, and accord- 
ingly pulled out my pocket-handkerchief, which was 
a blue cotton one, spotted white, and placed it round 
his neck as a gift. Not the least signs of pleasurable 
emotion, however, were observable in him beyond an 
apparent desire he had at once to go to his presumed 
father, and then to march away to his unseen, and, no 
doubt, miserable home. Though I knew it was im- 
possible for me, on the service in which I was 
engaged, and in the capacity only of a junior officer 
on board my ship, to take him away if he would have 
come, yet I must confess I should have been delighted 
if I could have done so. He was just of that age, 
I thought, when new and better impressions than 
any he had yet received might be stamped upon 
him ; and he was also a fine specimen of the Esqui- 
maux race — one, too, that would, no doubt, greatly 
improve, and with due teaching might become, if not 
a useful member among civilised society, at least 



aladoongI. 197 

serviceable to his own people; and be the means 
of doing much good. I was very desirous to get 
an Esquimaux to take home with me when I 
returned to England; and here certainly was one 
who it struck me, if I could get him, would just 
suit, not only the views I had for his own and his 
people's welfare, but also the purpose of an inter- 
preter the following summer at Boothia. Could I but 
bring this poor creature within the goody and with- 
hold from him the bady results of civilisation — give 
to that animate piece of clay intelligence, know- 
ledge, and a right understanding, — teach him the 
knowledge of his Maker, his God, and Saviour I — I 
felt that it would afford me intense delight. I would 
keep him as my own; and, while I could work, 
neither his proper education nor his improvement 
in all things, spiritual as well as temporal, should 
be neglected. But, poor little fellow I it was not 
so ordained. Away he went from me with his hand- 
kerchief round his neck, as I vainly tried to call him 
back ; and the rude hut, and the state of life, half 
human, half beast, was to remain his lot. I looked 
long and anxiously after him, and began to reflect. 
But, after all, said I mentally, perhaps he is really 
happier where he is. Increased knowledge but in- 
creases sorrow. A sense of the power of good and evil 

gives us often a gloomy prescience of the evil, without 

o 3 



198 VOYAGE OP THE PEINCE ALBEBT. 

power to avert It, and only presents the good in a 
more striking contrast. Unless the mind should be 
suflSclently ductile to receive those heavenly impres- 
sions which faith indelibly affixes, it would but be a 
question whether increased misery had not resulted 
to him from the change to a civilised state of exist- 
ence. Here, in his own native home, among his own 
native tribe, he performs the part which Providence, 
in His unsearchable wisdom, has allotted him in the 
wondrous economy of the world; and here he, at 
least, feels not, nor experiences any of those perplex- 
ing cares of life which harass and distress the more 
sensitive and polished European. True it is that 
time, as we know time, by days and hours^ and months 
and years^ is, in a measure, unknown to him. The 
moon's changes, alone, tell' him he h&s advanced so 
much onward to the vale of death ; but his appe- 
tites, only, signify to him it is morn, or noon, or 
evening. When he hungers, then he eats, if there 
be anything to eat; when he thirsts, the running 
stream in summer, and the ice melted with difficulty 
in winter, quenches his desire; he tires, and lays 
him down to sleep; he is refreshed, and begins what- 
ever work his hand may be set to, either in provision- 
ing his family, or laying by a store for the coming 
winter. In his dress, no fastidious display is neces- 
sary ; and the skin of the animal he eats, gives to him 



AMUSEMENTS ON THE ICE. 199 

the few garments he may require. So he passes on : 
80 this young lad will live among his kind, with no 
other thought or desire than that which Nature her- 
self implants — 

" Man wants but little here below, 
Nor wants that little long." 

Envy, hatred, malice, and all uncharitableness — 
does he know them? The pomps and dignities of 
the world — what effect have they upon his breast? 
To him the human form is still the same ; nor can the 
most specious drapery that covers it, alter his sense 
thereof, or make him happier or unhappier. 

While musing thus, my eye was caught by the 
field of ice before me, being turned into something 
like a scene of frolic and amusement. The " post- 
man's " rough sleigh was in high request ; and while 
Dr. Donnet harnessed himself thereto, Lieut. M'Clin- 
tock threw himself across in equestrian fashion, and 
away they both went, rapidly, in a straight line, to 
try what rate of speed they could accomplish. In 
a short time they returned, and the lieutenant and 
myself mutually performed similar oflSces for each 
other ; and thus, for the first time in my life, I had 
the opportunity of trying a native sledge in its rudest 
and most primitive fashion. 

While several of the oflScers and myself were thus 
amusing ourselves, the men were likewise engaged 

o 4 



200 VOYAGE OP THE PBINCE ALBEBT. 

in frolicking, during the time the despatches were 
being got ready. Leap-frog, sliding, racing, and all 
sorts of antics were rife among them for the few mo- 
ments they were thus idle, and away from their 
usual occupations. The natives came in for their 
share ; and, I must do them the justice to say, that 
they contributed by their incessant risibility to keep 
up our mirth. I tried very much to purchase a spear 
or some other trifling thing ; but the only owner of 
these materials, the "postman," had already, on 
board, received for his services a good steel file and a 
knife, &c., which, unfortunately for me, rendered my 
two small files and needles of less value to him, in 
comparison ; and, during the time I was bartering, 
the steamer was again about to start, so that I had no 
further opportunity to try and persuade him. 

When Commander Phillips and the boat of the 
" Felix " arrived with " Adam," the other natives 
instantly recognised the latter as one of their own 
people. They expressed their pleasure by voci- 
ferous exclamations, and immediately got into the 
boat before he landed. But " Adam," probably 
— as was very natural — impressed with a sense 
of his own superiority, showed the most stoical 
indifference. He soon entered into conversation 
with them, it is true, but evinced no pleasure at the 
meeting. Adam, " Cheepchow," and " Caloosa," had 



ADAM AND THE NATIVES. 201 

apparently a long talk together ; but we got, at that 
time, no further information than we had already 
gleaned ; though both Adam and the others were 
again severally interrogated by Captain Ommanney, 
our own commander, and Commander Phillips. It 
was concluded, therefore, that no information beyond 
the fact of Captain Penny having called there, was 
to be obtained. 

Among the various articles that were here given 
the' natives were some dolls. One in particular, a 
showily dressed imitation of a girl, afforded the poor 
Esquimaux infinite amusement, and, apparently, as- 
tonishment. They could not tell what to make of it ; 
and the possessor, " Cheepchow," guarded it very 
carefully as he wrapped it in a piece of paper given 
him, and put it in his sealskin dress. " CaloosS. " 
who was the life of the party, was over the ship 
everywhere, in a restless state of locomotion : at 
one time descending unbidden into the cabin, though 
hesitating for a moment at the ladder with a half 
serious countenance, as I stood by him, and then 
relaxing his broad features into their incessant grin ; 
and, next, diving into the very bowels of the 
steamer among the machinery. In this latter place 
he was carefully attended by the engineer to see 
that he did himself no harm ; but the poor fellow 
had, I believe, as near an approach to a fright and a 



202 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

cessation from his constant laughter, as he had yet 
experienced, or perhaps wished to experience. The 
huge and ponderous machinery did not appear to 
attract his wonder so much as the fires, at which he 
seemed utterly lost in amazement. He certainly did 
not like being too near them. The heat was too 
much for him; and when, to give him an idea, if 
possible, of the power which could be instantly set 
at work, the lever was placed in his hand, by which 
he was made to put the whole engine in sudden 
motion, he let the handle go, and hastily remounted 
on deck, with that sort of half comic look which 
represents both fear and laughter. 

From the few facts we were enabled to gather 
through Adam concerning themselves, we learned 
that sickness and disease had been playing sad havoc 
amongst them; and that these poor fellows were 
going south to a less dreary region, or where they 
might hope to get more sustenance. There were 
only three or four men, and three women of the party 
at Cape York. The women we had no opportunity 
of seeing ; which I very much regretted. 

Having got all the information we could obtain, 
our dingy-coloured friends were sent ashore, and the 
"Intrepid" in a few moments more was steaming 
with all power towards the " Assistance," which vessel 
had with a light wind and beautiful weather got 



RETURN TO THE SHIPS. 203 

some little distance ahead. The ice was gradually 
receding from us, and leaving more open water than 
we had yet seen ; and there was every prospect of our 
soon getting clear of it altogether. 

After rounding Cape York, we came upon the 
celebrated " crimson cliffs " of Sir John Boss, and I 
must do him the justice to say that, though his 
colouring of them is rather too high for their 
present appearance, yet there is much to warrant 
the denomination given to them. Meanwhile we 
gradually, neared the " Assistance " and *^ Prince 
Albert ;** and about two o'clock the commander and 
myself got on board our own vessel. The tow ropes 
were all attached, and we once more proceeded 
steadily and quietly on our proper course, with the 
" Resolute," " Pioneer," and *^ Felix," a long way 
ahead of us ; they having kept on, under steam, the 
whole time we were engaged examining Cape York, 



204 



CHAP. XVI. 

THE ESQUIMAUX "ADAM." — A STRANGE STORY, — EX- 
CITEMENT OCCASIONED BY IT. — COMMUNICATE WITH 
CAPTAIN OMMANNEY. — EXAMINE INTO THE TALE TOLD 
US. — PROCEED IN THE STEAMER TO CAPTAIN AUSTIN. 
— CONSULTATION CONCERNING THE REPORT. — DETER- 
MINATION TO INQUIRE MORE INTO IT. — SIR JOHN 
ROSS's OPINION OF ITS TRUTH. — CAPTAIN OMMANNEY 
PROCEEDS IN SEARCH OF MR. PENNY. 

I NOW come to a part of my narrative which I 
am extremely doubtful whether I ought to put 
down or not. At first I was inclined to think that 
I should do wrong in giving to the public so singular 
and strange a tale as that which now, properly, ought 
to be entered here : but, as this portion of my journal 
was written soon after the occurrence here alluded to 
had taken place, and when all the particulars were 
fresh in my memory, and as the tale has got abroad 
with many variations, I think it my duty to nar- 
rate it strictly as it came to hand. Leaving any 
comments I may think fit to make until after- 
wards, I will merely premise, that the principal per- 
sonage who figured in this strange affair, Adam, 
was a man in whom Sir John Ross placed the 



A STRANGE STORY. 205 

strictest confidence for honesty and truth ; that he was 
a man intelligent far above his fellows ; and, as I had 
reason afterwards to think, too intelligent; that he 
was a converted man, and considered a good Chris- 
tian ; and that he had had a very long talk with the 
natives, even after we had questioned him and them 
together. What my own impression was will be 
seen as I go on. 

It was somewhere about eight o'clock in the even- 
ing when Commander Phillips — who had been stay- 
ing on board of the ^^ Intrepid," being unable to 
get to his own vessel — came to us for a short 
time, bringing with him the Esquimaux Adam. 
The latter, with the boat's crew, went forward among 
the men; and, it was observed that he appeared more 
restless, and less inclined to talk with strangers than 
usual. Our steward, John Smith, went to him, 
and I noticed them apparently in earnest conversa- 
tion, the steward being able, from his long stay in the 
Hudson Bay Company's service, to converse with, 
and understand him better than any one else. I was 
engaged talking to the two commanders when, after 
a short time, the steward came up to us and said 
that the Esquimaux had been telling him a dreadful 
tale about some ships that were lost. I immediately 
went forward to Adam — who was always inclined 
to be friendly with me, in consequence of two or 



206 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBEBT. 

three trifling things I had given him, — and having 
an Esquimaux vocabulary in my pocket, began ques- 
tioning him from the book, and through the steward. 
The poor fellow was evidently pleased that I had 
come to him, for, as it afterwards appeared, I was 
the first officer who had chanced to talk with 
him since our leaving the natives ; and, it was clear 
that his mind laboured under some weighty sub- 
ject, of which he seemed anxious to unburden him- 
self. Directly I began to speak to him, he at once 
took a piece of chalk, which he had previously 
asked for, and wrote upon the gunwale of the ship, 
in a clear and good scholar-like hand, the figures 
" 1846," and particularly pointed my attention to it. 
In order the still more effectually to impress this par- 
ticular number upon my memory, he next wrote down 
^* 1850," and, in the few half words which he could 
utter in English, gave me to understand that 
1850 was this year, and 1846 the year to which 
his story referred. So far, that was intelligible 
enough, and it at once attracted my most minute 
attention to his further proceedings. He then by 
signs, and by questions, not put exactly as questions^ 
so that they should not in any manner lead him to 
certain answers, but as queries for him the better 
to explain his tale, gave me the following inform- 
ation, which I will condense and simplify for the 



A STRANGE STORY. 207 

reader. By his account, he had been told by the 
natives, when on shore conversing with them in the 
morning, that in 1846 (I could not make out whether 
the early or the latter part of the year) two vessels 
with officers having gold bands on their caps and 
other insignia of the naval uniform, had been in 
some way or other destroyed at some place to the 
northward of us; that the crews were ultimately 
much enfeebled ; and after great hardship and suffer- 
ing, encamping by themselves in tents, and not com- 
municating much with the natives, who were not 
friendly to them, were all brutally massacred. This 
was the substance and the pith of the long and 
tedious statement that was elicited from him, and 
confirmed, in appearance, by many corroborating cir- 
cumstances that he mentioned. 

I have not given one half that he told me, as it 
would but be an unnecessary and painful recapitula- 
tion, especially when the whole may be set down as 
doubtful. But I was then perfectly horror-struck, 
and hardly capable of communicating the details I 
had heard, to my commander. Both himself and 
Commander Phillips would scarcely believe that I had 
heard aright, and it was determined that an examina- 
tion concerning it should at once take place in the 
cabin. Accordingly, Adam was sent for ; and with 
the steward as interpreter, the same story with 



208 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

even minuter details was given, as had been related 
to me. So wonderful and extraordinary did it ap- 
pear, and yet withal so important, that it was deemed 
necessary at once to communicate with her Majesty's 
commanding officer on the subject. That the tale 
had reference to something more than we ourselves 
had heard in the morning was perfectly evident, 
even if the main features of it were not true, or 
over-stated. The " Assistance " was, therefore, 
hailed, and Captain Ommanney requested to come on 
board. He did so ; and the information we had re- 
ceived, was imparted to him without delay. A fresh 
examination then took place, notes * of the proceedings 
being taken down, and no deviation from the same 
tale having been found, after a short consultation, it 
was determined by Captain Ommanney immediately 
to try and communicate with the *' Resolute," and 
state the whole affiiir to Captain Austin. Our how- 
itzer was fired as a signal, and the colours hoisted, 
but without effect, as the leading ship was too 
far off to hear the one, or see the other. Captain 
Ommanney then decided at once to proceed in the 
" Intrepid," and confer with his superior officer. Ac- 

* These notes were taken in the " Prince Albert's " cabin by 
me, in presence of the three captains. They were afterwards 
handed to Captain Ommanney. I find an exact copy of them 
in Commander Phillips' Report. 



ADAM'S STORY EXAMINED. 209 

cordingly, not wishing to make any disorder in the 
various ships by a too premature promulgation of the 
news, our own boat proceeded to the steamer with 
Captain Ommanney, Commander Phillips, Captain 
Forsyth, and myself, accompanied by the steward 
and Adam. The " Intrepid " was cast off, and 
orders given to the " Assistance " and " Prince 
Albert " to keep under all sail in proper course to- 
wards the " Resolute." As soon as we had got on 
board the " Intrepid," and made a few inquiries, it 
appeared that Adam had, all the afternoon, been 
writing down the figures 1846, and drawing the 
attention of the men to them, while he kept talk- 
ing something which they did not understand. He 
had been much pained by their laughing and jeer- 
ing him about his miserable looks, and when he 
sufficiently explained himself to let them under- 
stand *^ ships lost," and ^* all men speared," they 
told him that he lied, and this made him cry, saying 
naa mee, nad mee (not me, not me). It may be 
remembered that the Esquimaux and Commander 
Phillips had been on board of the " Intrepid" all the 
afternoon ; and it was more particularly in conversa- 
tion with the boat's crew of his own ship that this 
attempt at a communication was made, though he 
frequently, as if in much distress of mind, kept say- 
ing, in reply to questions of no great import to the 

p 



210 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

subject, ** meey Sir John, Sir John^ meaning, as we 
afterwards found, that he \YOuld tell all to Sir John 
Boss, who was his master. 

It must not be supposed that among so many 
of us who heard this strange tale, made more 
horrible by the singular and terrible facts connected 
with it, there were none who immediately doubted 
it ; some wholly, and others in part. Men of any- 
thing like cultivated minds, engaged upon such a 
service as we were bound upon, are not easily caught 
with the first wild or wonderful story that might be 
narrated. There was, therefore, probably not one of 
the whole five of us, including now Lieutenant 
Commander Cator, who had heard Adam's story, 
but what doubted the truth of it, though, even 
while they doubted, hesitating how they could re- 
concile the doubt with the consistency of facts as at 
present laid before us. But whatever doubt any one 
might have had as to the whole, still there was more 
than enough to remove all doubt as to something in 
the way of information having yet to be gleaned, be- 
yond what we had obtained in the morning. We 
asked ourselves repeatedly. Could it be whale ships, 
or the " North Star?" But then, no whale ships 
had been missing that we knew of, and officers^ in^ 
signia were expressly mentioned ; and, for the "North 
Star," " two ships," and " 1846," were against it. 



PROCEED TO CAPTAIN AUSTIN. 211 

We could only remain patient awhile ; until, at last, 
about one a.m. we neared the " Resolute" suf- 
ficiently for her to make out that something was the 
matter, and to stay her progress. In a short time 
afterwards we were on board, and soon were ushered 
below into Captain Austin's cabin. Commander 
Phillips had previously dropped his boat and gone on 
board the Felix with the Esquimaux, in order to 
communicate first with Sir John Boss, it being but 
etiquette to do so. They both, however, along with 
Sir John, soon returned ; and our whole party were 
speedily assembled round Captain Austin's table 
in a very close and serious inquiry into this extra- 
ordinary affair. That gallant ofiicer was put in 
possession of all that had occurred, and I recapitulated 
everything from first to last that had taken place in 
relation to it on board the " Prince Albert." It may 
be imagined that Captain Austin was as much per- 
plexed for the moment as any one. He was also, like 
the whole of us, stunned with such a direful story. 
" It cannot be," said he ; " no, no, it cannot be. It is 
too horrible to be true ; and, besides, how is it that 
Penny, with his interpreter — a man well versed in 
the Esquimaux language — heard nothing of this ? * 
Here, it was true, one great objection to the credit of 
the whole or any part of the story, strongly lay. It 
was surprising, if any news of this kind had been in 

p 2 



212 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

possession of the natives, that Penny, — himself one of 
the shrewdest, most active, and persevering men, and 
long used to the natives, — had not got hold of it. 
This one fact alone seemed to negative the whole 
affair ; but as some sort of explanation of it, we were 
informed by the steward that it is very rare for the 
natives to give any information they may possess to 
any man speaking their own language, unless he be 
one of their own kind ; and that they would most as- 
suredly have sooner imparted to Adam such news 
than to Captain Penny, or his interpreter. 

I will not enter into all the arguments pro and con 
that were brought forward during the time it was 
discussed. Sir John Koss, speaking the Danish 
language a little, could hold converse with Adam, 
who also spoke it pretty tolerably ; and thus a new 
interpretation or examination could be arrived at.* 
The result ended in Sir John saying that the Esqui- 
maux had told him precisely the same as he had told 
the steward, "and," added the gallant officer, *'I 
firmly believe every word he has stated. I have the 
most entire faith and confidence in him, and I am 
certain he would not tell me a falsehood." Adam also 

* At this examination, the chief's name who had headed the 
natives in the alleged massacre, was given by Adam. I still 
possess the original notes made at the time in Captain Austin's 
cabin, and I find that name to be Mashvoek, 



FURTHER INQUIRY RESOLVED ON. 213 

wrote a statement in the Esquimaux language, aflSx- 
ing his signature to it in confirmation of his state- 
ment.* After this, there remained but one thing for 
any one to hang a hopeful doubt upon, and that was, 
that possibly Adam himself might not have rightly 
understood the natives, who were of a different tribe 
and race to himself. This question was put to him 
both by Sir John, first, and by our steward, and eli- 
cited the answer, that "he perfectly well understood 
them, and they had told him what he now stated." 

This was, indeed, a climax to our fears and gloomy 
thoughts, which could not now, very well, be turned 
aside by argument or further doubt. Capt. Austin 
had called in two of his senior oflicers, and all were 
severally asked what was their opinion concerning 
it. To delay the expedition even for a day was of 
great risk where the season was already so far 
advanced, time so precious, much to be done, and 
the state of the ice both here and in Lancaster Sound 
still an uncertainty ; and yet to let this strange tale 
pass without further inquiry, and without due 
examination of the coast to which it referred, would 
never do. What was the individual opinion of each 

* This statement has appeared in the public papers ; but, I 
am informed, cannot be made at all intelligible to the gentleman 
— a Moravian missionary, well conversant with the language — 
who tried to interpret it. 

p 3 



214 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBEHT. 

one present concerning the statement we had all 
heard ? Sir John Ross, in reply, gave it as his firm 
belief that the whole affair was, alas ! too true, for 
he could not but place credence in the tale Adam 
had told us ; Captain Ommanney thought some im- 
portance ought to be attached to it as evidently 
referring to something of which we were not wholly 
cognizant; the two officers called in, thought the 
same ; Commander Phillips, however, could not help 
having great doubt about it ; Capt. Forsyth was out 
of the cabin at the time when opinions were re- 
quested ; and myself, upon being asked, both now, 
and afterwards when alone with Capt. Austin, ven- 
tured very briefly to separate what I considered the 
clear parts of the story from those most confused and 
least credible, and to state, in conclusion, that I 
certainly thought there was so much truth in it 
as regarded some vessel or other, that the story 
could not entirely be set aside. Captain Austin, 
himself, was very much of this opinion, reason- 
ing upon all the points of the question in that 
plain, clear, and common-sense manner which none 
can fail to understand. He could not believe that two 
ships like the " Erebus " and " Terror " and their fine 
crews, every way well equipped, could have been so 
destroyed ; and though the ice might have done the 
chief work before the natives, yet it was stiU hardly 



CAPT. OMMANNEY SENT FOB MB. PENNY, 215 

credible. Then, too, how easily the natives themselves 
might have fabricated such a tale. There could not 
be a doubt that whalers had long before spread the 
report of two ships being missing, and that a reward 
was offered for any tidings of them; and this might, 
with such leading questions as Adam probably put to 
them, have led them to narrate so monstrous a tale. 
It was probable however, he added, that something 
might have occurred to some ship, perhaps to the 
" North Star," or tidings could be gained of her ; and, 
consequently, he thought the readiest way would be 
to try and effect an immediate communication with 
Penny, whose vessels were still in sight at some little 
distance to the westward, apparently stopped by ice* 
Captain Penny and his interpreter might then pro- 
ceed to Cape York and try once more to see the 
natives and get the truth from them. Accordingly, 
Capt. Ommanney was desired to proceed without de- 
lay in the " Intrepid ; " and after receiving on board 
Capt. Penny and his interpreter, who were to be 
requested to proceed on this affair, all speed was to 
be made to return to Cape York and get fresh in- 
formation from the natives. The " Resolute" would 
meanwhile edge down gently to the southward till 
Capt. Ommanney returned. 

The latter officer immediately took his depar- 
ture ; and when all was settled, our thoughts were 

p 4 



216 VOYAGE OP THE PEINCE ALBEBT. 

then turned as to what the commander and myself 
were to do. Sir John Ross and Commander Phillips, 
with the Esquimaux, had gone on board the " Felix," 
which was close by ; but the " Prince Albert" and 
the "Assistance" were a long way astern, and our 
boat, moreover, had been sent back upon our reach- 
ing the " Intrepid." We had nothing, therefore, to 
do for it but remain on board. Capt. Forsyth was 
accommodated in the gun-room, and Capt. Austin, 
with the courtesy which distinguishes that noble- 
hearted sailor, invited me to occupy an arm-chair 
in his own cabin. It appeared almost like a palace 
to me, but it had some things in common with our 
own humble quarters, and amongst these were the 
portraits of Sir John Franklin and Sir John Barrow, 
presented to the ships by Lady Franklin and by 
Mr, Barrow. 



217 



CHAP. XVII. 

RETURN TOWARDS CAPE YORK. — THE ** PIONEER." — SIB 
JOHN ROSS AND HIS »* CRIMSON CLIFFS.'* — BEAUTIFUL 

DAT. NOVEL APPEARANCE PRESENTED BY THE 

STEAMERS MOVING ABOUT IN THE ICE. — CAPTAIN 
OMMANNEY HAVING AGAIN COMMUNICATED WITH THE 
NATIVES, REJOINS CAPTAIN AUSTIN. — INFORMATION 
GLEANED RELATING TO THE ** NORTH STAR." CAP- 
TAIN PENNY — HIS INTERPRETER, MR. PETERSEN. — 

" ADAM*S " STATEMENT DISPROVED. CALOOSl AGAIN. 

RETURN TO THE OTHER SHIPS AND PROCEED, AS 

BEFORE, TO THE NORTHWARD. 

I SLEPT but little during the night, or, rather, 
morning. It was not that I could not have slept in 
that manner ; but the thoughts of what I had heard, 
aroused me after a few moments' slumber. It was 
too horrible to rest quietly upon, until the whole 
affair had been thoroughly examined and settled. 
Early in the morning I was again in motion, and, 
after paying my respects to Captain Austin, who was 
preparing for deck, I was soon in company with 
Commander Forsyth, a boat from the ** Resolute" 
taking us on board our own vessel, which had, with 
the " Assistance," come up to us during the night 



218 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBEBT. 

Of the ** Intrepid" we could see nothings nor of 
Penny's two vessels. A thick ice-fog hung over the 
sea -horizon, and obscured the sight in that direction. 
Overhead, however, it Was very clear and fine, and 
showed symptoms of a warm day. 

Directly I had got to my own cabin, and attended 
to the chronometers and other instruments, I made 
some additional preparations in the event of being 
again called for. This was the case after breakfast. 
Our commander had been invited to partake of that 
meal in the gun-room of the ** Resolute," and had re- 
turned there. About nine o'clock I observed the 
" Pioneer " steam up, and soon a boat from the 
commodore, with several oflScers, went on board of 
her. In a short time the steamer came down towards 
us, and, upon a hail being given, myself, accompanied 
by the steward, was pulled to her. Here an accident 
happened to Smith as he was getting on the deck 
of the steamer. His foot slipped, and he fell over- 
board ; but, fortunately, was speedily recovered, with 
no more harm than a fright and a good ducking. 
He had to return to the "Prince Albert" for a 
change of apparel, and then ultimately got on board 
the " Pioneer" in safety. 

I found, on the quarter-deck of the *^ Pioneer," Cap- 
tain Austin, Sir John Koss, Capt. Forsyth, Dr. Brad- 
ford, surgeon of the "Ilesolute,"besides a few junior 



SIB JOHN boss's "crimson CLIFFS." 219 

officers, whose names I did not learn. Lieut.-Com- 
mander Osbom was busily engaged on the bridge 
attending to his vessel, it being now the intention of 
Captain Austin to go down and meet the " Intrepid," 
near Cape York. The sailing vessels were ordered 
to keep under easy sail about their present position, 
which, as there was hardly a breath of wind, there 
would be no trouble in doing. 

During our trip back to Cape York, which re- 
markably reminded me of some pleasant summer ex- 
cursion with a few friends in a steamer at home, I 
had frequent conversations with all parties on the 
subject which so much engrossed our minds. Indeed, 
it was the all-absorbing topic, and was not set at 
rest, no, not even after we had got our doubts solved 
concerning it. But there were other subjects occa- 
sionally introduced, and not the least interesting to 
me was that wherein Sir John Ross joined, with re- 
ference to his " crimson cliffij." To-day, as the sun's 
glare was bright upon them, they shone out in several 
places with extraordinary similitude to the description 
he has given of them, a description which, however 
much I was inclined before to doubt as to its perfect 
verisimilitude, I could not help acknowledging now 
was not much, and, perhaps, at his time of visiting 
them, not at all exaggerated. And this he himself 
told me. With his "first voyage" in his hand, he 



220 VOYAGE OF THE PBINOE ALBEET. 

conned over the passages relating to this very place, 
and explained to me that the redness of the snow 
and the redness of the cliffs was much stronger then 
than now, and there was considerably more of it. 
Even,, however, as it was, there appeared quite suflS- 
cient to bear him out in all that he had formerly 
stated. Various causes have been assigned for this 
remarkable appearance; but I will only allude to 
two, as those which struck me as most probable. 
In the mention I have made of the little bird, the 
auky it will be seen that I noticed the snow stained 
all over with a strong red colour by their ordure ; 
indeed, it was so perceptible that every one's atten- 
tion was directed to it. This, then, is said to be 
one of the causes which produce the crimson look of 
the snow and cliffs in the neighbourhood I am speak- 
ing of. The other is supposed to arise from " an 
earthy substance brought from the mountains by the 
streams of water when a thaw occurs." In both of 
these opinions I found Mr. Petersen, the Danish 
interpreter, agree, when I asked him concerning it 
The reader will find, however, as he proceeds, that 
I noticed a similar crimson appearance on the bluff 
cliffs at Beechey Island, Barrow's Straits. 

August y Wednesday YAth, — About one P.M. we 
again arrived off Cape York, and very soon saw the 
** Intrepid " steaming out towards us. I cannot even 



NOVEL APPEARANCE OF THE STEAMERS. 221 

now, as I think upon these things, divest my- 
self of the strange feelings I hadj throughout the 
whole of this period, and especially when witnessing 
the movements of the steamers. It was so novel; 
so extraordinary I Here, in a part of the world 
dreaded by even the most hardy and experienced 
whale-fishers, among solid rocks of ice and snow, 
enormous glaciers, wild and sterile scenery, — here, 
were vessels, by the aid of steam, moving to and 
fro on various errands, and meeting one another as 
if they were in the quiet waters of any less dan- 
gerous part of the world, or even in the river 
Thames. One could hardly comprehend, as he 
looked upon the black smoke issuing from each 
funnel, and saw the speed with which the one ship 
approached the other without sail, that he was in 
the well-known and dreaded Melville Bay, among 
the icy regions of the North. I really could not 
bring myself to believe that it was anything but a 
pleasant pastime; although my senses, and the in- 
formation I received, concerning that very steamer, 
of the danger she had been in from the ice, when her 
decks were raised by the pressure, told me it was any- 
thing but pastime. But so it was; and the '^ In- 
trepid^' came so near as to make us all, I believe, 
fancy for the moment that we were anywhere but in 
our present position. The gi*aceful folds of the blue 



222 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

ensign, the national colours of Great Britain under 
the flag of an Admiral of the Blue, drooped from the 
peak of each vessel as the boat containing Captain 
Ommanney and Mr. Penny, with his interpreter, put 
off towards us. In another moment she dashed along- 
side, and the two captains were speedily in con- 
versation together. " Good news, good news I ^ had 
been cried out before the boat approached, and 
though this eased our minds from the oppressive 
feeling of the worst, it was the cause, among some of 
us, of raising them too speedily the contrary way, 
imagining that some great tidings had been heard. 
However, we soon learned all; and in a few mo- 
ments our minds were sobered down to something 
like rest on the subject. It appeared that, as soon 
as Captain Ommanney left in the "Intrepid," he 
made all despatch towards Penny's vessels, and suc- 
ceeded in overtaking them in the early morning. 
Capt. Penny, upon hearing the news, with great 
alacrity consented, himself and interpreter, to go 
back to Cape York in the "Intrepid," and try to 
open a fresh communication with the natives. This 
was immediately done ; his two vessels being ordered 
to stand in shore again towards the rest of the 
Discovery Fleet. During the forenoon the "In- 
trepid" reached her old quarters of the preceding 
day, and, fortunately, the natives had not yet de- 



Adam's story disproved. 223 

parted. An examination was then made by the in- 
terpreter respecting the statement which "Adam" 
had furnished; and, from what was thus elicited, 
it appeared that Sir John Ross's Esquimaux must 
have been very much mistaken in his story. That 
there was something like a foundation in it, beyond 
anything we had known before, was proved, by its 
being ascertained that the *' North Star" had wintered 
at Wolstenholme Sound the past winter, and that, as 
was understood, one man had been killed by a fall 
from the cliffs. Here was the whole of the mar- 
vellous story, which Adam had told us, at once dis- 
solved into thin air, with only a small portion of it 
remaining. Glad enough were we to find it so, for 
hope again was permitted to live within us. As for 
poor Adam, who was on board, he remained just 
as firm as ever, and stoutly maintained his fiction. 
Between him and Petersen (the Danish interpreter) 
there was a sort of bandying of words in explana- 
tion; but, it seemed, the latter was decidedly the 
better of the two, as indeed his superior position and 
acquirements enabled him to be. I shall, however, 
speak of him presently. Meanwhile, I turned to 
view our new comers; and the one in particular 
whom I was so anxious and, at the same time, 
pleased now to see. Captain Penny. He was 
standing, talking to Capt. Forsyth, who (to his 



224 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBEBT. 

credit be it spoken, foregoing his ralak) had formerly- 
volunteered to sail under him as second in com- 
mand, and who was, consequently, slightly ac- 
quainted with him. I stood for a moment gazing 
at this daring whaler, scanning him from top to toe, 
to see what sort of man he was that I had originally 
come from America purposely to join, and whose 
energetic spirit I had heard so much talk of, not 
only on shore, but since I had been among the naval 
ships that were for a long time in his company. I 
need not describe him : he is too well known ; 
but suflSce it to say that I saw before me, while 
thus quietly scrutinising him, the very man after 
my own heart; the one that would have exactly 
suited me. I have in my mind's eye now, full be- 
fore me, his whole picture, — daring, pushing, ardent, 
enthusiastic — a thorough, frank, hearty seaman — 
ready and rough, and rough and ready when need 
be — himself a working hand as well as a directing 
hand ; — there he stood, bronze-faced, fur-capped, 
jacketted, and with spy-glass slung around him, 
ready for any emergency that might suddenly meet 
him. Quick and prompt in his action, he de- 
noted the man of firm nerve and inexhaustible re- 
sources. Turning, suddenly, as I stood close by 
gazing, he seemed by some sort of intuition to 
know me. ** Mr. Snow 1 " he exclaimed, while he 



CALOOSA AGAIN. 225 

sprung towards me^ holding out his hand, as the 
commander was about to introduce me. Our hands 
were grasped, and my eyes glistened with the un- 
expected pleasure ; as he, in like manner, seemed to 
evince the satisfaction he felt at seeing me. We 
were soon in a hurried conversation ; but I must not 
delay longer on this part of my narrative. I will 
merely observe that I was as much pleased with 
Captain Penny as I had hoped for, not only as 
regarded my personal likings, but on account of the 
service he was engaged upon, and we ultimately 
parted on board the " Prince Albert" with the most 
friendly wishes on both sides. 

I must now mention that, on Captain Ommanney's 
coming nearer us, we found him accompanied by my 
lively friend of the day before, the Esquimaux native, 
Caloos^. It was soon ascertained that, not only had 
he come on board to act as a sort of pilot in pointing 
out the spot where the vessel had wintered last year, 
but that he was actually going to remain under the 
captain's own personal care, and be with him always, 
an arrangement to that effect having been entered 
into on shore. The poor fellow was made to clearly 
comprehend what he was about to do ; and the Danish 
interpreter had distinctly put the question to him 
and his few companions, as to whether be would like 
to forsake his natural home and be henceforth among 

Q 



226 VOYAGE OP THE FBINCE ALBEBT. 

Strangers; and both himself and his friends not only 
agreed to it^ but seemed to be much pleased thereat, 
stating that he was a young man without father or 
mother, and having no wife. He was, therefore, 
at once shipped for the cruise, and he parted from 
his friends with the most stoical indifference. As 
soon as he saw me on board the ** Pioneer " he at 
once remembered me, and upon my giving him a 
smile of recognition, his broad features relaxed into 
their usual grin, and we were as great friends as 
ever. " How d'ye do ? " said I, in English, to 
him, while he was surrounded by his new master, 
— probably the first he ever had, — and several 
other persons; and, to our great astonishment, he 
answered in precisely the same words, and with aa 
clear an articulation. To try him agun, I said, 
" Very well, thank you ; " but though he endeavoured 
to effect this, he was unable to get beyond ** Wer- 
well-you," or something like it ; and then, perceiving 
he did not speak it aright, he laughed aloud, and ran 
forward. Presently I saw him again running about 
the deck, looking into holes and comers, and examin-^ 
ing everything. Once, as the vessel left the locality 
whence we had taken him, he seemed to cast a sort 
of wistful eye there; but it was only momentary; 
the next second it was gone, and he was the same 
wild, laughing fellow as before. Upon approaching 



CALOOSA. 227 

me the second time, I happened to take off my cap 
and remove some of the loose hair from my forehead ; 
he instantly did the same ; and as I purposely con- 
tinued the movement, so I found he did, parting his 
shaggy locks, if so they could be called, exactly as 
my hair was parted. I perceived that whatever 
was done before him, as related to the person, he 
attempted in the same manner; and this proved 
to me, that what has before been said of their 
excellent powers of mimicry is not in the least exag- 
gerated. I soon ascertained that CaloosS was already 
named anew. As he came from Cape York, his new 
patron. Captain Ommanney, called him " York^^ to 
which another Christian title was added by some of 
the oflScers. I shall still, however, call my friend by 
his native name, ** Caloos^," for the short time I have 
yet more to speak of him. He maintained the same 
restless and wandering movements, though appa- 
rently in the highest delight. Upon descending to 
the cabin, he there performed certain antics which 
raised a smile in all of us. As we seated our- 
selves, so did he ; his greasy, and all but uncovered 
skin, squatted, in perfect disregard to the value of 
the furniture, upon whatever seemed to him to be 
a seat. A looking-glass was presented to him ; when, 
upon seeing his own features therein, his laugh sud- 

Q 2 



228 VOYAGE OP THE PEINCE ALBEET. 

denly vanished^ but as instantly came again as his 
eye caught mine. 

Some of us arranged our hair before the glass, and 
he immediately, with exquisite mimicry, and with all 
the attention and little arts of a lady at her toilet^ 
attempted the same with his own, all the time laugh- 
ing at himself for his awkwardness. From the glass 
he went to the stove, the bells, stools, pictures^ 
and everything with restless curiosity ; and, finally^ 
after our dinner, when he was motioned to sit 
down and partake of some food that was put before 
him, he began to eat most voraciously. Some of 
the things he appeared to like very well, but others 
he discarded, after tasting, in a very unceremonious 
and nauseous manner. His fingers, of course, were 
used by him in preference to the fork, but upon the 
latter being shown to him and explained how he had 
to use it, he made efforts to do so in a creditable 
manner. A jack-knife had been given to him prior 
to his coming on board, and he made great show of 
it, as if proud thereof. At dinner he used it once or 
twice in the manner we pointed out. In the midst 
of rapidly eating, however, he suddenly left off; I 
presume he had had enough ; and, rising from his 
seat, made one or two of the officers shrink away, as 
he came rather too close to them with his greasy skin 
dress and wild appearance. A small drop of whiskey 



CALOOsA. 229 

was banded to him by an officer, but be bad no sooner 
tasted it tban he spat it out with the utmost dislike, 
as though he bad been poisoned. His half-comic, 
serious countenance was again put on, but relaxed in 
a moment to the usual grin. Another novelty for 
him, was now brought forward. Suddenly, as he was 
rambling about the cabin, a low, sweet strain of music 
was heard close behind him. He started round, in 
evident astonishment, and seemed to look about for 
the spot whence it came. A fine musical-box had 
been placed on the table, and it was playing a soft 
opera air. He was, apparently, as much delighted 
as entranced; especially when, without any apparent 
cause, the air changed to a brisk and lively tune. 
He could see and hear that the sound was from the 
box ; and great was his examination of it when the 
lid was opened for his inspection. 

I have now mentioned all I know or saw of CaloosS. 
Poor fellow ! I hesitate not to admit that I felt an in- 
terest and a liking for him. He was so good-humoured, 
and (but perhaps it was my fancy only) had for 
a time attached himself a little more to me than to 
any one else. When the vessels all met again in the 
evening, he went on board of the " Assistance," and 
I had no opportunity of seeing him again. That he 
will be well taken care of I am certain, for Captain 

Ommanney evinced that sort of interest in him which 

Q 3 



230 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

I felt myself^ and expressed his intention of making 
him a man. 

While I am upon the subject of the natives^ I 
may as well relate the brief information which I re- 
ceived from the Danish interpreter. Mr. Petersen, it 
appeared, had been deputy-governor of the settlement 
of Upernavick when Captain Penny called there in 
the present year, and managed to engage his services. 
He had been some years there, was well skilled in 
the Esquimaux and English languages, and was an 
intelligent scholar in his own. He was married and 
had two children. His wife, a half-breed Dane- 
Esquimaux, was staying at Upernavick until his 
return from this expedition, when Captain Penny 
would either land him at the settlement, or take him 
to England and send him on to Copenhagen ; whither 
she would, in the latter case, precede him by the 
Danish vessel from Greenland. He was very anxious 
about letters from her, and had expected there would 
have been some for him when he heard we had called 
there. This led to a conversation between us, when 
I found that the settlement of Upernavick wa» on a 
much more respectable footing than I had previously 
been informed. Sealing and collecting the skins of the 
various animals to be found there, was the principal 
occupation of both the European and native settlers. 



231 



CHAP. XVIII. 

THE "ASSISTANCE," " INTREPID," AND " FELIX " PROCEED 
TO WOLSTENHOLME SOUND. — THE " PRINCE ALBERT ** 
TAKEN IN TOW BY THE "RESOLUTE." — CLEAI( 
WATER. — PLANS FOR FUTURE EXPLORATION. — PART 
COMPANY WITH THE " RESOLUTE." ENTER LAN- 
CASTER SOUND. MAKE THE LAND ABOUT CAPE LIVER- 
POOL. — FOG. — DANGEROUS SAILING ON ACCOUNT OF 

NUMEROUS BERGS. — BYAM MARTIN MOUNTAINS. 

STRONG BREEZE. — PASS CAPE HAY. — NAVY BOARD 
INLET. — EXAMINE WOLLASTON ISLAND. — NO INFORMA- 
TION. — BLOWING HARD. — SHIP HOVE TO. — DARKNESS 
AT MIDNIGHT. 

After a pleasant day thus spent on board the 
"Pioneer," where I met with every kindness and 
hospitality from Lieut. -Commander Osbom, his 
officers, and all assembled there, we got up to the 
other ships about six p. M. There had been but very 
little wind all day, and the weather was warm. 
Penny's two ships were now in company ; and he 
himself having come on board of us, received all the 
letters in our charge for him and his crews, and then 
bade us farewell. Each vessel now prepared, once 
more, to take her proper station ; and I could again 
dilate upon the goodly sight that was here presented 
to the eye, as all the eight vessels and their several 

Q 4 



232 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

boats, like a little fleet preparing for line of battle, 
gradually assumed their respective positions. At 
seven p.m. the tow-ropes were fast as before. Penny's 
ships ready to start off to the westward under all 
sail, and the ** Felix" and ourselves attached to the 
Resolute " and " Assistance." The word was given ; 
and as the "Lady Franklin" and "Sophia" stood away, 
while we gradually moved onward, deafening cheers 
rose upon the air, amid that strange and wonderful 
scenery, until their echoes rang again upon the rugged 
rocks, and were carried back to those that sent them. 
It was indeed an animating sight, and one not easily 
forgotten. 

It had been determined by Captain Austin that 
the " Assistance" and "Intrepid" should search the 
locality referred to in the intelligence we had received 
concerning the " North Star," and, as that was not 
materially out of the way, in our present position, 
this determination was carried into effect at midnight, 
when off Cape Dudley Digges, the sun, though now 
very low, still shining upon us. Accordingly, those 
two vessels and the " Felix" (Sir John Koss wishing 
to examine the place, being still doubtful about the 
story he had heard *) parted company from us here, 

* It is right I should here state, that in all the private letters 
irom Sir John Koss, of which I have heard, he expresses his 
final disbelief in the whole story. 



THE "NORTH WATEB." 233 

and we were attached to the " Resolute," who took 
us in tow. Three cheers were again given, and then 
each division stood on its proper course, ours, now, to 
the westward, as the ice was gradually clearing ; and 
the "Assistance" along the east land to Wolsten- 
holme Sound. 

Thus ended this day, — a day full of eventful 
change to us. The weather continued mild and calm^ 
and we all began to think we were now nearly clear 
of the ice. Tired and sleepy, I then, at one A.M., 
retired to rest. 

Thursday^ August 15th, — The following day we 
had very similar weather, with now and then some 
straggling ice in sight. The commander and myself 
were invited to dine in the gun-room of the ** Keso- 
lute," with Captain Austin and the oflScers, and we, 
consequently, enjoyed a most agreeable and pleasant 
afternoon. We were, now, fairly in what is called 
by Arctic seamen the " North Water ; " and all 
seemed clear before us. 

Friday y August \^th. — There was no change this 
day, except that we had light airs, calms, and occa- 
sionally straggling ice. The weather continued fine 
and clear, and all steam was kept up. My afternoon 
was again most agreeably spent, from being invited 
to accompany Captain Forsyth to dine with Captain 
Austin on board the " Resolute ; " and we there found 



234 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

two of the oflScers of the " Pioneer." It was an ex- 
ceedingly pleasant party; and, with the few other 
similar changes I had lately experienced, seemed 
like an oasis in the desert. It was now decided 
that a plan of future proceedings should be marked 
out for our guidance. Captain Austin announced his 
intention of going first to Possession Bay and Pond's 
Bay, and thence up Lancaster Sound, if we would 
search the coast beginning at Cape Hay to Leopold 
Harbour. This our commander promised, and it was 
then furthermore stated that the " Resolute" would 
meet the ** Assistance" (which latter vessel was to 
take the north shore of the Sound), at an appointed 
rendezvoas between Capes Bennell, Riley, and Ho- 
tham. Failing in meeting with each other there, one 
vessel was at once to go on to examine Cape Walker, 
and thence to Melville Island, if possible. This being 
arranged, we returned on board at about nine p.m. 

Augusty Saturday 17 th. — The next morning was 
foggy, with a light breeze, clear sea, and a slight 
swell from the N. W. ; the latter denoting that the 
ice had at last left us. 

During the forenoon I went on board of the 
" Resolute " in my medical capacity, to consult the 
surgeon about one of our men who had been ailing 
since our leaving England. Several previous con- 
versations had taken place about him between the 



PAET COMPANY WITH THE "RESOLUTE." 235 

doctor and myself, and he had been seen by the 
medical gentlemen of the whole of the ships. Com- 
mander Forsyth consulted with Captain Austin, and 
at the man's own written request he was discharged 
from the ** Prince Albert" into the "Resolute," for 
transhipment back to England, if the " North Star," 
or any whaler was fallen in with ; the ** Kesolute," 
as was thought, being more likely to meet them at 
Pond's Bay than we should further up the coast. 
This being done ; and Fox with all his things clear 
from us ; at two P. m. we cast off the " Resolute's " 
tow-rope, and, with another three hearty cheers, each 
vessel stood on her respective course, we for Cape 
Hay, from which we were about, as we suppose, fifty- 
two miles, and the " Resolute " for Pond's Bay. As 
the final cheer died away. Captain Austin, who with 
his officers was standing on the taffrail, waved his hat, 
and in his strong, clear, manly voice sung out with all 
a seaman's honest good-will, "Success to you, my 
fine fellows 1" and the next instant we sheered off, and 
she was soon lost in the fog. And truly, by the side 
of the large ships we looked but a small thing to come 
up here on such a voyage. We were somewhat, as 
they all said, like Baffin of old. Often have I since 
thought of that, " Success to you, my fine fellows !" 
and remember, with great bitterness of spirit, the 
feeling which seemed to animate me anew when I 



236 VOYAGE OP THE PEINOE ALBERT. 

heard it. " Success," Indeed ! I find in my private 
note-book, written immediately after we parted &om 
the " Kesolute," these words, and I will give them 
to show exactly not only what I myself, but most of 
us then felt. * * ♦ « To look at our little bark in 
comparison to these large ships ! Yet here we are, 
and, by the blessing of God, all safe so far ; and at this 
moment the^r*^, and most ahead of all the discovery 
ships, though we left last : and we hope yet to he 
ahead. We are now entering the ground where all 
our hopes and expectations are centered; where we 
must be constantly alert, night and day, on the look 
out ; and where, I earnestly pray, we may find some 
tidings. We have now a nice little breeze in our 
favour, and a clear sea ; and as our vessel lifts and 
moves to the gentle swell we seem to be again upon 
the ocean, looking brightly forward." 

Two weeks to a day, only, after this, we were 
again very near the same place, myself crest-fallen, 
miserable, hardly able to contain myself, and the 
poor ship (no emblem of Baffin now) sneaking as 
it were reluctantly (for it was calm and light air) 
homeward 1 

Sunday y August \Sth. — Throughout the latter 
part of yesterday it was very foggy, with a light 
breeze in our favour. During the night it continued 
the same ; but, as up to midnight we had not run 



MAKE LAND ABOUT CAPE LIVERPOOL. 237 

the distance we had calculated ourselves to be from 
Cape Hay, we did not heave to. A careful look-out 
was kept by all of us; and neither Capt. Forsyth 
nor myself lay doWn until the morning. At half- 
past one a.m. I threw myself down in my clothes, 
for a little rest ; and at half-past three was aroused 
by the cry of " land." I ran on deck, and found it 
to be an, apparently, low, sandy beach, close to us. 
The weather was still very foggy, and, consequently, 
we could only see a small portion of the land right 
before us ; but in what part or what was next to it 
was impossible to telL Upon sounding, plenty of 
water was found, and the ship was therefore " hove 
to," until later in the morning. At eight I was 
again on deck, and found the ship under sail, and 
running gently along the land, which could faintly 
be seen through the thick fog that still environed us. 
The lead was kept going to try the water, and the 
gong was constantly sounded to give notice to any 
other vessels or persons that might chance to be in 
our way. Every few moments an iceberg would 
dart out from the dense vapour that surrounded us ; 
and not a few '^ wash pieces " gave us some trouble. 
The wind now came foul, though still keeping a 
moderate working breeze ; but, it appeared, we made 
very little progress. In a short time we came upon 
some remarkable coloured water, assuming the ap- 



238 VOTAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

pearance of a chalky, clay shoal ; but no soundings 
were found upon it at twenty fathoms. The fog lifting 
a little, showed us a bluff headland, which looked, 

* 

however, anything at that moment but low land, 
though I afterwards found it to be so, at least in 
comparison to the land around it. This headland I 
immediately thought to be Cape Liverpool, from the 
colour of the water near it being such as described 
by Parry in his first voyage ; and I at once attributed 
our being so far down, to the existence of that strong 
southerly current so much spoken of by preceding 
voyagers. As the fog partially cleared away I felt 
particularly anxious to get a sight of the land, and 
also of the water ahead of us, to see if the latter was 
free from ice, and to examine the former. I was 
incessantly up and down at the " crow's nest," and 
the spy-glass was almost constantly in my hand. 

As we proceeded very slowly along the land, tack- 
ing off and on, we observed several shoals of eider 
ducks, and large quantities of other birds. The 
shore appeared bluff and rugged, but it was only 
when we run in close that we could see it at alL 
The day thus passed away without any improvement, 
and it was ten p.m. before I left the deck to get 
a few hours' sleep prior to an early rise in the 
morning. 

Monday y August 1 9/A. — I was called at four A. M. 



STRONG BREEZE. 239 

to relieve Capt. Forsyth on deck^ he having been 
on the look-out from ten the preceding evening. The 
weather was still foggy, and there was but little 
wind, and that against us. At seven, the dense va- 
pour around was suddenly lifted up, as if by magic ; 
and, as the curtain rose, with the sun shining in the 
east, the whole range of the lofty and magnificent 
Byam Martin mountains, with their snowy peaks, 
burst upon my delighted view. It was a beautiful 
sight; and with such a quick transformation too, 
from the heavy fog to a pure air and clear sky. 
My glass was now unceasingly at my eye, both on 
deck and aloft. A jutting point of land to the 
westward I thought might be Cape Hay, but as yet 
we had no wind to get us there. The " Sound," 
however, I perceived with great pleasure was free 
from ice, save a few bergs close in shore; and I 
augured from this that we might stand a chance of 
getting into Prince Regent's Inlet without interrup- 
tion. While eagerly wishing for some wind, it came 
upon us almost as suddenly as the fog had been 
driven away; and, at eight o'clock we had all sail set, 
running close along the land, with a splendid breeze 
in our favour. Now was the time to keep a bright 
look-out upon the shore. Mr. Parker, of the " True- 
love," had given us directions by which we could 
distinguish the point where he had landed the pro- 



240 VOYAGE OP THE PEINOE ALBEBT. 

visions and coals sent out by Lady Franklin In the 
year 1849, and for these marks I was eagerly look- 
ing. When It cleared away in the morning we had 
found ourselves close down to the place where 
we had been on the previous evening; conse- 
quently I had, myself, lost none of the coast while I 
was In bed. I was on the fore-yard glass in hand 
looking out about noon or a little after, the ship 
going very fast and a sea rising, when Capt. Forsyth 
hailed me and stated that he saw the coals and cask 
upon a low point of the shore under some high 
table-land that we were passing. The second mate 
said the same ; but perhaps from my long watching 
my eyes were dim and I could not see them so dis- 
tinctly as to be certain about it. If that was the 
place it certainly was not In Catherine's Bay, as Mr. 
Parker had told us, for the point jutted right out 
into the sea. However, It was blowing too strong 
to stop and examine, and accordingly we proceeded 
on. 

Navy Board Inlet now soon opened out to us, and 
Wollaston Islands were close upon our bow at 
two P. M. We observed two cairns erected upon one 
of the islands, and presuming that this was the spot 
where Mr. Goodsir had landed last year, we rounded 
under the lee of the island and hove to, for the pur- 
pose of making an examination. As I was to under- 



EXAMINE WOLLASTON ISLAND, 241 

take this, I joyfully prepared to do so, and having 
put on my rough overall sea-boots and coarsest appa- 
rel, for a few moments carefully read that part of 
Goodsir's narrative relating to it. The boat mean- 
while had been lowered ; four hands to pull, and the 
second mate, as coxswain, got into her ; and taking 
with me a written notice of our visit in a cylinder, I 
departed. It was some little time before we got to 
the shore, or could find any landing-place. The 
island was barren in the extreme; and apparently 
formed of loose rugged masses of limestone and 
craggy rocks. 

We found a small place on the S. W. (true) comer 
of the island, where we had just room to haul the 
boat up, clear of the lee wash, on to a narrow bit of 
shingly beach close under the loose stones and rocks 
of the cliff itself. It was apparently the only safe 
spot : though, even there, little safety could be said 
to exist. Our next job was, after leaving one hand 
in charge of the boat, to try and climb up the almost 
perpendicular surface to the summit of the island, 
where the cairns had been erected. It was evident 
that when Mr. Goodsir landed, it must have been 
on the other side, if, as I still doubt, we were in- 
deed upon the right island. Our task now was 
neither easy nor free from danger, and this was 
evinced almost directly after we began to ascend 

B 



242 YOYAGE or THE PEINCE ALBEBT. 

We had to climb from place to place on a most in- 
secure footing, where one false move or treacherous 
halting-place would have sent any of us to the 
bottom, and have killed us outright. One of the 
men, evidently a good cragsman, had ascended higher 
than any of us, when he accidentally dislodged a stone^ 
which came rumbling down with great force, and 
struck another man full upon the head. With great 
presence of mind the latter retained his footing, 
though for a moment stunned by the blow, which 
we at first, feared would prove very dangerous ; 
as, however, he soon appeared to recover, and 
would not return, I concluded that his head was 
harder than I had taken it to be, and we pro- 
ceeded on our way. By the help of a faithful 
walking-staff that had proved serviceable to me 
in many parts of the globe, I got up the ascent 
with tolerable ease ; and, in about half an hour 
more, reached the cairn. Here, however, after due 
examination, we found nothing, and I therefore 
concluded that we had got on the wrong island ; 
and that the cairns had been erected, for no 
particular purpose, by some of the whalers. We 
then prepared to return, as time was precious to 
us; and having collected a few geological specie 
mens from the summit, we began our descent. It 
was as diffi(?ult descending as it had been in the 



DISCOVER A GRAVE. 243 

ascent. Our clothes were torn in one or two places 
by the sharp craggy rocks, and our boots were cut 
in an equally sorry way. About half-way down or 
more on the top of the S. W. point, we observed what 
must evidently have been a grave. It was in a most 
singular spot ; a ledge of high rock here formed it- 
self into a small oblong peninsula, in size, at the top, 
a little larger than the grave, and almost overhanging 
the sea, the waves of which could be faintly heard 
at a great depth below. This peninsula was con- 
nected with the main island by an extremely narrow 
isthmus of rock, which we found it required great 
steadiness and care to traverse. We then had to 
ascend, or rather climb, from stone to stone to the 
grave, and there we found the only approach to 
verdure we had yet seen. Some moss and mould 
was laid in the usual form, and a few small bones 
were observed around. Whether or not there was 
really any one buried there it was impossible to say, 
as I could discover no signs of any name, or any 
token whereby to ascertain the truth. We got 
down to the boat without any mishap, and soon 
afterwards were on board. I reported the result of 
my examination, and then descended to the cabin to 
change my torn apparel, and, afterwards, get my 
dinner, which I ate with a keen relish. 

Captain Forsyth at first hesitated about making 

B 2 



244 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

sail from under the lee of the island on account of 
the wind increasing and the sea getting up; but, 
ultimately^ hoisting in the boats^ he stood out gal- 
lantly from the land^ upon our proper course. I 
was glad to see him do so> as ours was no common 
voyage where every threatening storm makes people 
cautious. But I was equally disappointed when 
I foimd that, he deemed it right to heave to, 
with a fair wind and clear water, at ten P.M., 
in consequence of the gale increasing, and a high 
sea running. Some bergs occasionally appeared, 
and we knew not what might be ahead of us in the 
shape of ice, as the weather was not quite so clear 
as it had^ been ; but it was daylight now nearly, 
though not quite, all the twenty-four hours, and all 
danger as I thought, but perhaps wrongly, could 
be avoided. However, there we were, hove to; 
and, for the first time these last eight weeks, we lit 
a candle, for an hour only, in the cabin. 



245 



CHAP. XIX. 

LANCASTER SOUND. — NO FIELD ICE. — A RAPID RUN.— 
LOOKING OUT FOR THE LAND. — LEOPOLD ISLAND. — 
HAUL IN FOR PORT LEOPOLD. — THE HARBOUR BLOCKED 
BY HEAVY " DRIFT ICE." — A LANDING EFFECTED WITH 
GREAT DIFFICULTY. — WHALER POINT. — BURFORd's 
PANORAMA. — THE ^* NORTH STAR." — NO TRACES OP 
SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. — SIR JAMES ROSS'S "HOUSE." — 
STEAM LAUNCH AND PROVISIONS FOR THE MISSING 
EXPEDITION. — HEAVY TASK IN RETURNING THROUGH 
THE ICE. — H. M. S. " ASSISTANCE.*' — ^PROCEED UP PRINCE 
regent's inlet. — ICE BLOCKING UP THE VARIOUS 

harbours. — idea op proceeding by boat to lord 
mayor's bay. 

Tuesday^ August 20^A. — At seven A. M. the fol- 
lowing day, I was on deck again, and found the 
ship still hove to, the wind blowing hard and a high 
sea running. No land could be seen anywhere, on 
account of the thickness of the weather. Thus we 
continued until noon, when it being more moderate, 
sail was again made, and we stood away for Port 
Leopold, from which we considered ourselves to be 
distant about 100 miles. 

In the afternoon we ran through some loose ice, 
apparently the break up of a berg, demolished by 

B 3 



246 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBEBT. 

the gale ; but, except occasionally one or two small 
pieces, we saw nothing to interrupt us. The wind 
increased a little more towards evening, but it was a 
splendid breeze, and we were running about nine 
knots an hour. Not wishing to lose the advantage 
of so fine an opportunity of getting on, and per- 
ceiving Captain Forsyth was again, as he told 
me, intending to heave to, I volunteered to him to 
remain up on deck all night, looking out myself (as 
he said he had no confidence in his mate), if he 
would run on. This he immediately agreed to, and 
though I was positively wearied out by the exertions 
of the past day or two, and want of natural rest, I 
cheerfully prepared myself for the night duty. At 
ten p. M. Captain Forsyth retired to his cabin, and I 
was then left to myself on the look-out ; the second 
mate attending to his duties as regarded the sails, &c. 
The weather was thick and hazy, and no very great 
distance could be seen ; but we were going along at 
a rapid rate, sometimes ten knots an hour. I took 
my station alternately on the foreyard, in the '^ crow's 
nest," forward in the bow, or wherever I could 
best see. At times I reclined at my whole length 
upon the foreyard, steadying myself with my feet 
twisted in between the two parts of the jib hal- 
yards, and my arm round the fall of the topgallant 
yard rope. As my heart leaped with joy at the 



RAPID RUN. 247 

breeze, and my thoughts revelled in the prospect 
that fancy put before me, I felt myself, up aloft 
there, like some spirit flying upon the wings of the 
wind. I was alone; trying to pierce the darkness 
ahead. Though I had not actually charge of the 
deck, yet, for a time, the deck might be said to 
be my own. I could feel the bonnie little craft 
bounding under me. See how she skims across the 
surface of the deep, as though she were alive ; the 
wild waves leaping over her bulwarks in vain at- 
tempt to stay her progress, or deluge her decks 
with heavy seas. " Give it to her ! Let her fly I " 
I mentally ejaculated ; for I could see, in fancy, 
some hundred or more human beings — fellow crea- 
tures — brethren of our own calling — noble, brave, 
and daring fellows, stretching out their arms to us 
that we might snatch them from their misery. With 
these thoughts, I sprang to my feet; one glance 
below ; seven bells (half-past eleven) was striking ; 
the curling waves dashed along each side of the 
ship, and the seas rolled fast and furious after her. 
It was good ! her speed had in no wise lessened. I 
turned my glance ahead. A moment more, and I 
fancied that a huge black mass was rising out of 
the clouds before me. And yet it could not be. 
Hardly had we run ninety miles since last noon, 
and now we have entered the straits which bear the 

B 4 



248 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

name of Sir John Barrow, the great promoter of 
all Arctic discovery 1 I looked again. Yes it was. 
Hurrah I Leopold Island was in sight. 

I was now quite certain of our position: 
Cape Clarence I could also see, and the high^ 
bold, bluff, north-headland of Leopold Island. Tha,t 
would do: so I hailed the deck, and desired 
the second mate to inform the commander. In 
a short time Captain Forsyth was on deck; and 
in a few moments the ship's course was altered, and 
she was brought nearer the wind, which was now 
somewhat lighter. I remained aloft keeping the 
look-out, and in a short time observed the land more 
up the inlet, inside of Cape Clarence, and concluded 
it was Leopold Harbour. The faint darkness of the 
short night had now passed away, and the morning 
light displayed objects very distinctly; but thick 
clouds still hung over the top of the land, from which 
we were yet some distance. The wind, too, was 
dying away fast, and it was half-past two in the 
morning before we got abreast of the harbour. I 
then descended from my post aloft. 

Apparently, a belt of ice encircled the mouth of 
the harbour, so as to prevent the vessel going in, 
as was our original intention had it been open, 
and the gtitta percha boat was therefore ordered 
away to examine, and accordingly we were soon 



LEOPOLD ISLAND. 249 

pulling away for the mouth of the harbour. A long 
swell was coming in from the sea, the effects of the 
gale now completely died away, and wherever we 
passed any ice it was heaving about in a convulsive 
manner. As we neared the shore, the whole features 
of the place came fresh upon me, so truthful is the 
representation given of them by Lieut. Browne in 
Burford's panorama. I could not mistake ; and, I, 
almost, fancied that I was again in London, viewing 
the artistic sketch, but for certain imdeniable facts in 
the temperature and aspect of the ice which banished 
such an idea. 

I tried the barrier of loose pieces and heavy 
" brash " ice which encircled the mouth of the har- 
bour, in several places, but did not find a single spot 
through which the ship could enter with anything 
like safety, even if she could have forced her way 
through. I hesitated a moment what to do, but 
seeing a strange sail suddenly appear in the offing, 
I determined upon making a bold push, and attempt 
a landing in the boat. I was feverishly anxious con- 
cerning tidings that I hoped might be found at this 
grand depot ; and as it appeared that we were the^r^^ 
vessel there this season of all the discovery ships, I 
was desirous of making her the^r^^ that should have 
any communication with the shore. Accordingly, we 
gave the gutta percha a fair trial, perhaps a better 



250 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

trial than it had ever experienced before, and forcing 
her through the outer edge of the ice, soon got her 
well into it. She behaved admirably; every voice 
was in praise of her : the gutta percha resisted the 
ice in a manner truly surprising, and glided past it 
unhurt; whereas, if we had had our mahogany, or 
any other kind of boat, it would have been in great 
danger, and, in all probability, on our returning 
through the ice afterwards, would have been crushed 
like an egg-shell. In a short time, with some degree 
of difficulty, we got through, and effected a landing 
on the extreme end of Whaler Point. The boat was 
hauled up high and dry, and I rushed eagerly to the 
house that we had observed near at hand as we 
came in. My first work was to examine the cylin- 
ders, one of which was found fast to the flag-staff 
erected close to the beach, and the other inside the 
house. Eagerly did I open them, and take out 
their contents. Three papers were in one, and two 
in the other. My agitation was so great, that I 
could hardly see to read, and my hands fairly 
trembled; for it must be remembered that I was 
somewhat fatigued and worn out after twenty-eight 
hours' unceasing watching, and the excitement was 
great upon me. To my heavy disappointment, 
however, there was not a line of intelligence con- 
cerning those whom I most wished to hear about. 



WHALER POINT. 251 

No, they had not been there. "Well, we must 
hurry further on," thought I ; " perhaps at Brentford 
Bay, or lower down, we shall get tidings ; " and, thus 
reasoning, I hastily perused, again, the documents 
before me. Three of these were the papers left here 
last year by Sir James Ross, and signed by him and 
Captain Bird, one of the three being a list of stores, 
provisions, &c. left behind, the other two duplicate 
memorials of their visit. The fourth document was, 
to my surprise, a paper from the " North Star^^ 
which vessel, it appeared, had been there only a few 
days before us. I copied the contents of this paper, 
which were in substance as follows : — 

" The North Star had been beset in Melville Bay 
on 29th July, — gradually drifted until 26th Septem- 
ber, when they found themselves abreast of Wolsten- 
holme Sound. Ice being a little more loose, and the 
sound appearing clear, made all sail, and pressed her 
through it, anchoring in the lower part of the Sound 
that evening, and arrived in North Star Bay, Wol- 
stenholme Sound on 1st of October. They wintered 
there till 1st of August this year, when they got 
liberated, and passed through the pack in centre of 
Ross's Bay. Reached Possession Bay on 8th of 
August, in evening. Left despatches, and arrived at 
Port Leopold 13th August. The North Star called 
to see if instructions were left for her guidance. — 



252 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

14th. Season far advanced and the harbour full of 
ice ; and not being able to land provisions, the North 
Star proceeds to Port Bowen or Port Nelll, and then 
returns to England. 

(Signed) J. Saunders." 

Having done this, I hastily tore a leaf out of my 
metallic pocket-book, and wrote thereon a brief notice 
of our visit, depositing it with the others. Not being 
aware that we should do more than examine the 
Ice outside, no .usual written notice had been brought, 
and pens, ink, and paper were not among the many 
excellent accommodations the house on Whaler Point 
otherwise afforded. 

As time was very unportant, not knowing how the 
wind and ice might set In upon us, I could only, then^ 
take a cursory survey of things around me. The 
covering of the house was very much rent at top and 
at the sides In several places ; and we had no occa- 
sion to use the door, In consequence of a large gap 
In the canvass giving us a free and easy entrance. 
In every other respect the house was In excellent 
order ; and I could not help wishing that no worse 
a habitation might at the present moment belong. In 
some other place, to those for whom this was especially 
erected; and also that many of our poor at home 
had as good. All sorts of things and utensils — 



SIR JAMES boss's HOUSE. 253 

ropes, iron-gear, blankets, stoves, &c., &c. were 
scattered about, inside, in singular proximity. Out- 
side, and nearer the beach, piles of soup and 
bouilli canisters, and other preserved meats were 
heaped up alongside of a great number of casks, con- 
taining all sorts of articles for a lengthy scale of 
victualling on shore. Further on, were bags of coke 
and coals, and then the steam launch, a fine noble- 
looking boat, in which one would hardly be afraid to 
venture anywhere. She was so placed as to be ready, 
without very much difficulty, for launching, and the 
materials belonging to her were lying alongside, 
some of them half-covered with pieces of ice driven 
up from the sea. I directed one or two to be moved 
higher up ; but it was soon seen that we ourselves 
could lose no longer time, as the ice was evidently 
closing fast in upon the harbour in a more compact 
form than. when we entered. Accordingly, I gave 
orders at once to be off, and in a few more seconds 
bade, as we then thought, adieu to Whaler Point. 

The passage by which we had entered was closed, 
and we had to pull along the great body of ice 
stretching across in a semicircular form, to find an 
opening whereby we might get out. Inside the har- 
bour, numerous detached pieces were moving about 
in a rather too lively manner to be agreeable in close 
quarters. The belt, which was to seaward of us, pre- 



254 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

sented very much the form of a bank of large rugged 
ice and dirty snow, newly thrown up as a dam to 
prevent egress. As this bank heaved and fell to the 
rise of the swell, it was anything but pleasing to 
contemplate, knowing that we must try to find a 
passage through it. Twice did we pull its entire 
length without finding the least appearance of an 
opening. As it was growing later than I had ex- 
pected, it being now past six o'clock, and fearing that 
the commander would be anxious about us, I con- 
sulted a moment with Wilson, and then gave orders 
to try and force through it in the slackest part. 
There was, however, hardly any slack part, and we 
had therefore to take it where it appeared the nar- 
rowest across. Accordingly, in we went, the boat 
being pushed through the "brash and drift ice," 
much in the same way as a fly may be seen occa- 
sionally trying to wade across a saucer of refined 
sugar, suflBciently wetted with water to make it a 
substance thick enough for a piece of crust to stand 
upright in. This is about the nearest kind of simili- 
tude I can give to the nature of the stuff we had to 
go through ; with, however, the addition of numerous 
large blocks of ice within the rest, thrown into 
frightful motion by the heavy swell. For an hour 
did we labour — every one of us hard — at this tedious 
work. Several times did it seem that we must give 



HEAVY LABOUE THROUGH THE ICE. 255 

up ; the men and myself were exhausted ; each^ also, 
was wet through, over his knees and to his waist, by 
frequently having to jump upon a passing floe, and 
pull the boat by hand clear of another. At last we got 
into a part where it was more slack, and, finally, 
cleared the whole mass, and were alongside the vessel 
at about eight a.m. I reported what I had done, 
and was then informed that the strange sail we had 
seen was the ^^ Assistance,'* who had merely run up 
to the " Prince Albert" within hail, and having as- 
certained that we were examining the place, stood 
away again to the north shore of Barrow's Straits. 
At ten o'clock, after I had partaken of breakfast, and 
attended to the chronometers, &c., I lay down and 
was soon asleep, having been up since seven the pre- 
ceding morning. 

At two P.M. I was on deck again, and found the 
vessel had made but little progress, it being calm 
nearly the whole time. A breeze soon afterwards 
sprung up in our favour, and we passed along the 
coast to the southward, in Prince Regent's Inlet. 
We were, at last, fairly on a portion of the ground 
which had been allotted to us, in particular, as the 
scene of our labours and researches ; and it was with 
no little anxiety that I kept a good look-out to see 
the state of the ice ahead, and also to examine the 
coast as we went along. I was delighted beyond 
measure to find, this day, that no barrier as yet ap- 



256 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBEBT. 

peared to block our way or to stay our progress. 
The weather, however, was too thick to see far 
ahead ; and some ice along the coast seemed to bode 
not so favourable a result as was wished for. Elwin 
Bay, as we passed it, was blocked at its mouth, and 
the ice seemed to trend more off the land, and get 
broader as we neared Batty Bay. Still there was 
great hope that we should now, very soon, get to our 
winter-quarters, in either Brentford or Cresswell 
Bays. Success hitherto in coming thus far had made 
us sanguine, and the breeze helping us — should the 
sea remain clear — we might be at anchor, pro- 
bably, on the following afternoon. It was yet early 
in the season, and I reflected within myself that, 
perhaps, something in the way of search might yet 
be done, according to the scheme originally intended 
for us, and the instructions we received, ere winter 
set in upon us ; and I was mucli gratified to see the 
willingness, nay, eagerness with which the men, one 
and all, looked forward to the service which was to 
follow our taking up a winter position in Brentford 
Bay, or some other harbour. 

But I need not enter into any detail about our plans, 
as these, unfortunately, were not carried out, in con- 
sequence of the vessel not getting to Brentford Bay ; 
though I began to prepare myself for the servioe 
by putting up such things as I should want, and 
making the necessary arrangements. 



257 



CHAP. XX. 

PASS BATTY BAT. — OFF FURY BEACH. — STOPPED BY 
HEAVY ICE. — COMPELLED TO TURN BACK. — RETRO- 
GRADE MOVEMENT. — NIGHT SEARCH IN THE GUTTA 
PERCHA BOAT ALONG THE COAST. — PORT LEOPOLD 
AGAIN. — HEAVY BARRIER OF ICE. — MEANS EMPLOYED 
TO CARRY AND DRAG THE BOAT ACROSS IT. 

Towards evening, with a very light wind, we were 
passing along at some distance from the edge of 
the ice of Batty Bay, which was, just as in the 
other two places, closed against us. I was sitting in 
the after-cabin, talking to the commander, and read- 
ing, when, suddenly, I heard a cry on deck, from 
some of the men, that a gun had been fired on shore 
close to the bay. • Capt. Forsyth, on coming up, gave 
orders to run closer in, and to clear away the howitzer, 
and fire it. I immediately took the best glass in my 
hand, and went aloft, most anxiously and narrowly 
examining the land, without perceiving the slightest 
signs of anything to denote either life, or even vege- 
tation. Directly the report of our own gun had died 
away, I strained my ear to try and catch any answer- 
ing signal ; but not the faintest sound of anything 

S 



258 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

could I, or any one else, now hear ; and, accordingly 
we presumed that what had been heard was, either 
the fall of a piece of rock, or the collision of some 
heavy ice. We, therefore, once more stood on our 
course, and at ten o'clock, with foggy weather, ice 
stretching more out from the land, and myself 
dispirited, as well as still fatigued and needing sleep, 
I retired for the night. 

Upon going on deck the following morning, at 
seven, I found we were running along the edge of the 
ice nearest the land, and in a thick fog The wind 
was light, and had carried us down as far as off 
" Fury Beach." I was very anxious for the fog to 
clear, to see what was before us ; when, about nine 
o'clock, it lifted, and we saw, not only the land 
abeam, and trending round to the west, but, what 
was a bitter disappointment, ice everywhere ahead, 
and on each side of us. We had evidently run into 
a "bight," and, a few yards further, should have 
been brought up all standing. Long and eagerly 
did I strain my eyes through the glass in every di- 
rection, from the '^crow's nest;" but nothing save 
one dreary expanse of heavy hummocky stuff pre- 
sented itself. Not a sign of any opening any- 
where. This was indeed wretched beyond descrip- 
tion ; so nicely, too, as we were going on, and fancied 
wc could yet go on. What was to be done ? The 



STOPPED BY HEAVY ICE. 259 

mate was called from his bed, — It being his watch 
below, — to come and report upon the state of the 
ice ; and the second mate, as second ice-master, was 
sent away in the boat to try the pack, and see what 
it was like. I was aloft with the mate consulting, 
and asking what he thought of it. He examined it 
well ; and finally expressed it to be impossible, in his 
opinion, for us to get through this season^ *^ if," added 
he, " that sort of ice breaks up in any season ; " and 
I was reluctantly compelled, with a gloomy heart, to 
come to the same conclusion, and that it was now 
hopeless for us to think of getting further that way.* 
He descended below, and gave the commander, as 
requested, his written opinion on the subject. Soon 
afterwards the second mate came on board, and re- 
ported to a similar effect ; he, too, was desired to give 
in a written opinion to the commander. The next step 
was, to get the ship clear from her present unsafe 
position, as, in the event of a gale or breezy weather 
springing up while she was there, the ice might 
close in upon her. Orders were then given to turn 
the ship's head round, and retrace our way ; and the 

* I could only, of course, judge from what I saw, coupled 
with what the mate told me. Inexperienced in the ice, I could 
not tell whether waiting about there would be proper or 
not. The opinion I had afterwards to give referred to another 
examination. 

8 2 



260 VOTAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

commander having also received from me at his re- 
quest a written opinion concerning what I, In my 
inexperience, considered the state of the Ice, began 
to lay before me his intentions. I entreated permis- 
sion to make an attempt to land at Fury Beach, 
and would dare all to do so If he would lend me 
the boat only for one day ; but he considered it too 
hazardous an attempt. He, however, told me that 
he purposed to return to England, having failed in 
being able to get to Brentford Bay or into Batty 
Bay; and — from several circumstances which It 
would only be irrelevant here to speak of — I, 
with a bitter heart, coincided with him in his 
opinion to that effect, deeming that it would indeed 
be better to return to England. It was, however, 
agreed, that Capes Riley, Hotham, and Walker 
should be looked at and examined first, by us, before 
returning, although the peculiar ground of other 
ships. I again volunteered this time to search those 
places in an open boat. 

At four P.M. all hands were summoned, and told by 
Captain Forsyth what his intention was, and that 
the vessel was now returning to England. What the 
men thought I know not; but they said nothing, 
though I purposely asked them to tell the commander 
if anything suggested itself to them. They were 
then dismissed, and the mantle of gloom spread itself 



VOLUNTEER TO SEARCH THE COAST. 261 

abroad, in fog and despondency of spirits, over our 
little vessel, so joyous but a short time back. Uhomme 
propose et Dieu dispose : and so it is in all things in 
this chequered life ; I had little more to care for now, 
or to do, save my regular duties; and I felt that void 
w hich I knew not how to fill, except where the source 
of true comfort and consolation is always found. Hope, 
however, again came into my breast : I asked if a fresh 
notice would not be needed at Port Leopold, and was 
answered in the affirmative ; and, at nine P. M., the 
land thereabout being in sight, the boat was, at my 
request, ordered away, and I determined to take the 
opportunity, through the night, to examine all along 
the coast to that place. 

We left the ship about half-past nine in the evening, 
taking care that a few sundries, in the way of eating 
and drinking, were placed in the boat, in case we 
needed them. The night was not particularly cold, 
at least to us who had now become accustomed to a 
low degree of temperature ; and away we went, stand- 
ing in direct for the land, as near as we possibly could 
towards Batty Bay. 

I could now hastily run over what passed during 
the next twenty-four hours; but I feel somewhat 
inclined to take the reader along with me in this 
night search. 

To beguile time in the boat, I took out a book 

8 3 



262 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBEBT* 

from my pocket, ^' Anecdotes of Napoleon,'' and 
hegun reading. But ad we came upon the land ice^ 
which still hung very thickly to the shore, my at^ 
tcntion l)ocame too much absorbed by other things 
to read. ^ly book was exchanged for the spy- 
glass, and with this I was constantly trying to 
pierce through the dark twilight, which now existed, 
to make out objects on the land. Skirting along the 
ice as close as we possibly could, we were yet some 
miles distant from Batty Bay, and one or two direct 
from the land. To reach the former we found was 
impossible at that time for either boat or ship, and 
accordingly we stood in for the nearest part of the 
shore. By this time our little bark was out of sight ; 
and when, in another hour, midnight came upon ns, 
we found ourselves alone upon this frozen sea, with 
nothing to keep us company except a few solitary 
water-fowl, and the ever wondrous iceberg * lifting 
its ponderous bulk slowly upward at each motion of 
the sea. 

Midnight upon the waters in a solitary boat is, I 
have no doubt, a very pretty thing in some parts of 
the world : Venice for instance ; the silvery Bay of 
Naples, too, that " dolce far niente^^ of the Neapo- 

* One of these masses, weighing several tons, had been 
thrown entirely upon another by some heavy pressure of the 
ice. 



KIGHT SEARCH ALONG THE COAST. 263 

litan; but, midnight, upon the waters of an Arctic 
sea, without the excitement of a whale chase, or 
the company of another party, or even of your 
own ship, is anything but pretty. A few nights 
back I was on the opposite coast of Melville Bay, 
watching, with intense feelings of delight and pride, 
the sun shining upon the whole " Searching Fleet,'* 
as the hour of twelve was sounded through each ship. 
Nowy I was alone, on a service which, though re* 
quiring care, attention, and energy, wae yet a retro- 
grade movement. A check had been given to my 
sanguine expectations ; instead of searching the coast 
onwardy I was examining it backwards. Then, I 
looked forward expectantly ; trusting, nay, half-be- 
lieving, good news would await us somewhere at the 
entrance of this part of our labours. Now, alas • . • * 
A tinge of melancholy saddened my thoughts ; the 
song, and the lively talk of my men had ceased : and 
nought was to be heard but the even-timed splash 
of the oars as they dipped in the water ; the cold^ 
too, seemed to have increased ; and the wind rush-* 
ing down the steep declivities and ravines, appeared 
to have a greater and a sharper force: I wrapped 
my great coat closer round me; and as my feet 
were getting numbed, tried to keep motion with 
the oars by stamping to their time. A cigar ceased 

• 

to afford any luxury; daylight, however, was gra- 

84 



264 VOTAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

dually brightening, and I could see more clearly on 
the shore. The land-ice had trended so far in as to 
permit us rowing close along the craggy cliffs. I 
looked, and looked again ; but still no signs, no mark 
or token which gave me even a hope of its being of 
use to land and examine it. Thus, then, I was left 
to my own sad thoughts. Gloomy enough for the 
time they were. Of self I had not one idea : but 
those brave hearts for whose existence, safety, and 
return to their home I would gladly, ay most gladly 
have perilled life and all — where were they? 

Gloomy thoughts had now for the time mastered 
me. Midnight here was not as the midnight off 
Cape Melville, and though midnight had passed away 
an hour or more, my saddened feelings had still some 
strength, when suddenly a brightness in the east 
denoted that the sun was once more coming up above 
the sea. A cheering voice, as I gave a word to the 
men, brought forth a cheering sally ; and an instant 
more I was once again with hope and life before me. 
My morning orisons were lifted with the morning 
sun, and mixed with them was a prayer for those 
I sought. I sprang to my feet with renewed vigour ; 
and, giving the men a cordial draught, we soon went 
forward at increased speed. By three o'clock we were 
off a deep valley or ravine close to Cape Seppings, and 
the ice began to appear in greater masses. Nume- 



HEAVY BARRIEB OF ICE, 265 

rous small bergs were aground here, and detached 
floes were floating about in the vicinity. Creeping, 
as we had done, close in shore, we had, lately, thrown 
the larger portion of the ice, as it were, to seaward ; 
but by the time we had rounded the Cape, and 
opened out the harbour, it was seen that some dif- 
ficulty yet would be found in getting to Whaler 
Point. I have before described the form and ap- 
pearance of Port Leopold, and I need, therefore, 
only here observe, that, from the southern point of 
the entrance, an almost dense pack of heavy drift 
ice was stretched across in a north-easterly direction, 
intercepting our passage. Upon examination, I 
found that we were in a bight ; and that the ice at 
its eastern extremity was connected with that, inside 
of which we had been coming. We pulled rapidly 
round the curvature presented to us, but could find 
not a single opening large enough to admit our boat. 
For the moment I thought of retracing our steps for 
some short distance, and getting outside of this im- 
pediment, hoping that, from the sea, an entrance 
might be found on the other side of the harbour ; 
but reflection told me, that upon the mere chance of 
our succeeding that way it was hardly worth while 
to give the men such additional labour, they already 
having had a long and heavy task. Accordingly, I 
consulted for a moment with Wilson, and he sug- 



266 VOTAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

gested that the boat should be launched, or carried 
across the intervening floes of ice, as might be found 
most necessary. For a few seconds I hesitated. The 
recollection of the difficulty we had experienced on 
the previous morning in coming out, almost deterred 
me from risking, not only the boat, but perchance 
some of our lives also. We were not bound on such 
a vital errand as to cause any hazardous step to be 
taken. We had accomplished, though in vain, the 
search of the coast from the southward of Elwin 
Bay to this point, and this was all that was most 
important for us to do. But then, again, our ship 
could no where be seen. A dense fog was rising 
from the sea, and already covering the rocky hills : 
the ice we could perceive was in rapid motion, and 
carried to seaward by a strong tide or current ; and 
we could also notice that in the circular movement it 
was making it would soon enclose us altogether* 
Moreover, fatigued as the men already were, they 
could never reach the ship — had we even known 
exactly her position — without some previous rest 
and refreshment. The last bearing I had taken of 
her by the compass was prior to midnight, just 
before she ceased to be visible. By this time she 
might have materially altered that bearing, but 
whether towards or from us it was impossible to say, 
in a place where ice and current might send her in 



MEANS EMPLOYED TO CROSS IT. 267 

any direction but that she wished to take. Added 
to these reflections came the fact, that by making the 
attempt to get ashore at the tent we should assuredly 
be sought for there, even though the state of the 
ice might cause a delay in any communication with 
us. All these thoughts ran rapidly through my 
mind while the boat was being pulled again towards 
the narrowest portion of the ice between us and the 
water we could perceive, on the other side of it near 
Whaler Point. I soon made my determination : and 
directly we touched the ice all hands sprang upon 
the floe, and commenced hauling the boat up. To at- 
tempt any minute description of the difficulty we here 
encountered is beyond my power. The interruption 
to our free passage on the water consisted — not of a 
solid pack of smooth connected ice, over which we 
could have dragged the boat with comparative ease, 
but — of numerous heavy floes, not entirely joined to 
each other by themselves, nor yet separated so as to 
leave any small channel of water, but so closely 
cemented, as it were, by very thick " brash ice," as 
to render the passage of boat or canoe impossible. 
Here and there one large piece was thrown upoa 
another ; and, occasionally, their partial separation left 
wide gaps of such a breadth that neither by jump- 
ing nor by taking a circuitous walk could we 
reach them otherwise than by the boat. And yet. 



268 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

the boat was all but incapable to effect this: for 
wherever such a gap was presented the brash ice inter- 
vened. The explanation I have already given of 
this sort of ice will enable the reader to understand 
in some measure our position. Added to this, more- 
over, was the fact that the rapidity of the current 
setting fast out of the harbour upon the inland swell 
of the sea, was causing some of the heavy floes to 
have a far from ])leasant motion: now lifting them- 
selves upwards for several feet, and retiring from 
their respective neighbours; and then suddenly 
springing forward as they descended close to their 
fellows. To be on them at such a moment was not 
what we cared for ; but should the boat be between 
two of them at such a time, and we in the boat, 
there would be enough to look out for. However, 
the thought of these matters — explained here for 
the reader unaccustomed to the ice — gave none 
of us then much trouble. For myself I had de- 
cided (confirmed in my decision by the opinion of 
the men, and their readiness to attempt it); and 
therefore heedless of danger or regard for self we 
all " with a will" began our task. The boat was the 
only thing that we thought for ; and never was child 
more tenderly handled than was the "gutta percha" 
by all of us that morning. Occasionally we lifted 
her when any hummocky piece of ice or other in- 



MEANS EMPLOYED TO CROSS IT. 269 

cumbrance presented an obstruction to her being 
dragged along upon her keel ; then we wonld slide 
her carefully down into the "brash" when too large 
a gap intervened : and the moment any of the floes 
appeared to rise or come too near, boat-hooks, ice- 
poles, and our own hands were thrust out on both sides 
to guard her. 

At first we had, comparatively, but little diflSculty. 
Two or three pieces were got over, almost easily; 
but when we got into the thick of it, we thought 
several times we should not be able to get through 
at all. In the ** brash" we could not make her 
stir, until some motion of the nearest floe caused 
a disturbance around and eased the density of the 
stuff that stopped us. When we were among the 
smaller pieces of ice, we could get no proper prize 
for our hooks and staffs to push her on ; and at such 
times we had to spring out upon the pieces them- 
selves, while they sunk below the water occasionally 
to our waist with us, and thus bodily pull the boat 
onward. At this work Wilson, with his accustomed 
daring, rendered himself conspicuous; and, indeed, 
there was not one of the crew who did not make self 
the last in his thoughts at such moments, and who was 
not in and out the boat with the lightness of a fawn 
each second it was required. When the pieces became 
too far apart, and the "brash" slackened a little, a 



270 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

vigorous " 5ewcf " was given the boat, and then, each 
man, watching the opportunity, gave the last impulse 
with his foot and threw himself on to the boat as the 
ice receded from him. Sitting on the gunwales and 
the bow, with feet over the side ready to jump on 
the instant, we next would come to heavier pieces, 
where again the process of hauling and carrying was 
resorted to ; and in this manner for nearly an hour we 
worked, until at length we got over the worst por- 
tion, and came across to the other side, where some 
clearer water was ready to receive us» 

In the accustomed life of an arctic voyager such 
occurrences as I have now mentioned are considered 
nothing. They are habitual to him, and he heeds 
them no more than one of the commonest things In 
the world. Anything like danger about them he 
never thinks of. It never enters his mind that 
there is a possibility of his being launched into eter- 
nity in one moment by the boat and crew being 
suddenly crushed between two of the floes, or him- 
self canted from a piece of ice and thrown under- 
neath, to be taken away, for ever, by the current, 
before his shipmates can save him. This, or any- 
thing akin to it, never comes across his mind ; and 
yet, to the inexperienced, or the quiet dweller at 
home, these dangers will appear in all their force. I 
had seen too much of rough and adventurous life to 



MEANS EMPLOYED TO CROSS IT 271 

hesitate, or wish to shrink back, however great the 
danger. Of course I was anxious for the men, and 
was frequently calling upon them to be cautious. I 
was responsible for their safety, even more than for 
the safety of the boat ; and I felt then more ready 
to do anything myself than that they should do it. 
And yet I could not help forgetting care, respon- 
sibility, and all, as with a merry laugh and witty 
observation they performed this rather heavy portion 
of their labour. The morning was cold; yet we 
were warm with the exercise, and our countenances 
glowed again with health and vigour. I could not 
help looking at the men in such a moment with 
positive pleasure. And then, at last, what a wild 
hurrah and joyous shout was given as we launched 
the boat once more into her proper element I And 
this, too, at an hour of the morning when all good 
folks are supposed to be asleep ! 



272 



CHAP. XXL 

AGAIN AT WHALER POINT. — VARIETY OP PROVISIONS LEFT 

THERE. — PRIMITIVE BREAKFAST. HONEST BRIGANDS. 

— "REFUGE CAMP." — THICK FOG. — ROUGH SLEEPINQ 

COUCHES. THE " PRINCE ALBERT " NOT IN SIGHT. ICE 

CLOSIN^G IN UPON THE HARBOUR. — NO EGRESS FROM IT. 
POSSIBILITY OF WINTERING THERE. IDEAS SUG- 
GESTED BY IT. — "punch." — CLEARER WEATHER.-— 
MR. MATTHIAS' GRAVE. — THE "PRINCE ALBERT" COMES IN 
SIGHT. — THE ICE SLACKENS. — GET THE BOAT THROUGH 
AND ARRIVE ON BOARD. 

We found no further difBculty in landing. The tide 
was evidently ebbing fast, and it appeared to be near 
low water. Accordingly, giving directions to haul the 
boat up high and dry above the change of tide, I 
hurried away to the tent. 

A hasty glance around convinced me that no one 
had visited the spot since I had last left it ; but to 
make sure, if I had any doubt (for hope, however fgiiut, 
yet lingered in me), I had the two cylinders brought, 
and examined once more. No one had added a line 
since that which I myself had placed there. I there- 
fore put in the extra document I had brought with 



VARIETY OF PROVISIONS. 273 

me from the ship, and then, having fastened them se- 
curely in their places, turned to see what could be 
done for breakfast. But in this I was forestalled. 
With the true characteristic of sailors, the men were 
already rummaging about to find material for a fire 
and utensils for cooking. These were all we wanted, 
for tea, sugar, &c., with biscuit and some meat we 
had brought with us. Like so many honest brigands 
intent on some rich booty, did the men pry into 
every nook and corner with a curiosity like that of 
children. None of them, except Wilson, had been 
on shore here before ; and now they were busy to 
their heart's content in examining and remarking upon 
the supplies of provisions presented to their view. 

" I say, Alick," said one, " why, here's enough stores 
to keep us all for years. Hang me if I care whether 
the * Albert' comes for us or no while there's all 
this stock at hand for us." * 

" Ay, Charley, my boy," was the response, 
" plenty of stuff there to last us awhile ; but then 
you see 'tis for them that wants it better than us." 

" And so it is, Alick, and bother me if I'd be the 
one to deprive poor Sir John of any of it. Much good 
may it do him, and them's is along with him. I only 
wish he were here now. We'd get him such a break- 
fast as he hasn't had perhaps for a long time." And 
with many more such observations did they continue 

T 



274 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

their examination. One was overhauling the labels 
on the tins of preserved meat. — " Boast Mutton I" 
"Ox — Ox-cheek Soup 1 ^ " Con-cen-trated gravy 1 " 
" Green Peas ! ! " " Roast Beef I " " Mixed Vege- 
tables!" "Carrots!" "Soup and Bouillil" and the 
names of several other compounds were uttered aloud 
by him in tones of astonishment. Another was look- 
ing at the casks of beef^ pork^ chocolate^ flour^ navy- 
bread^ sugar^ pickles^ lime-juice^ &c., &c^ which were 
proclaimed as soon as their titles were made out. A 
third had gone to examine the launch and its engine* 
Oars and all entire^ it certainly was a splendid boat, 
and worthy of the purpose for which it was intended. 
The machinery belonging to the engine was, however, 
rusted, and had been exposed to the ravages of the sea 
and ice. Some of the scattered materials I again col- 
lected together. While breakfast was being prepared 
(water was obtained from a little pool of melted snow 
near the beach), I sauntered up towards the hill for the 
purpose of examining the ice both outside and in the 
harbour. The fog, however, which had now come on 
more densely, prevented my doing much, and I was 
about returning when I was hastened to the tent by 
a hail for the morning meal. This I found had been 
prepared with as much regard to comfort as could be 
obtained; but, after all, what is the enjoyment of 
real comfort but one's own adaptation to whatever 



BBEAKFAST ON WHALER POINT. 275 

circumstances one may be placed in. As Cowper 
beautifully expresses it^ 

^^ Happiness depends, as Nature shows, 
Less on exterior things than most suppose." 

Table TaUt^ stanza 250. 

A plank had been cleared of some ropes at one end^ 
and two or three large stones, with a small keg, had 
been brought in for seats. On the plank was spread 
whatever we had to eat and drink. There being 
only two drinking-mugs, one was reserved for me, 
and had been already placed where I should sit ; and 
never did I feel greater satisfaction in a meal or plea- 
sure in the manner I was thought of than now. Sooth 
to say, however, rough or not it was all the same to 
me. Nought came amiss. The salt pork and biscuit 
had that morning, if never before, as fine a flavour as 
need be. The tea, although not brewed by our stew- 
ard's hands, was peculiarly acceptable. Some one 
else then took my mug, and while the rest were 
thus busily engaged, I could not but look at our 
strange group with a smile. Well might I assimilate 
us all to brigands ; for a more uncouth and wild-look- 
ing set of men perhaps are rarely met with among 
civilised people. Yet what hearty, laughing, fear- 
less faces I Seated, myself, upon a stone ; near me 
was the boatswain, kneeling upon one knee for con- 
venience, as he cut at the meat with his huge clasp 

T 2 



276 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

knife; next him, half-reclining, was Mathieson, in- 
tently busy at his food ; behind him sat Grate, oc- 
cupied in like manner; before me, on a keg, was 
Wilson, the second mate, talking and laughing and 
eating all together; next him was Anderson, the 
noisiest, the quickest, and the heartiest eater of us 
aU. 

^* Truly," said I, half aloud, " this is a capital re- 
fuge for us after our night's labour ; may it prove 
equally so to those for whom it was more especially 
intended." "Amen to that," was the almost spon- 
taneous reply of all ; and then catching the idea as if 
by impulse, we gave to the place the name I had 
incidentally mentioned. " Refuge Camp^ will no 
doubt long be remembered by us. It certainly will 
by me ; for, independent of the hope that it may yet 
prove a real refuge to some one, I must confess I 
spent a pleasant hour or two there. 

Kising from my rough seat I walked round the 
interior of the tent — of that tent which until the 
arrival of the ^^ North Star," a few days back, had 
been unvisited by any man for a twelvemontL In 
one place, a cask of " blanket bags" attracted my 
eye ; in another, useful articles for the carpenter and 
boatswain ; culinary utensils, rigging, housing, &c. ; 
but the bag of letters which I had before noticed 
was what I, for the moment, chiefly regarded. I 



^^RErUGE CAMP." 277 

examined It, and among several parcels found two, 
addressed to the *^ Erebus and Terror." I dared not 
do more than hastily glance at the address, and put 
them out of sight. I know not why it is, but the 
same feeling has always arisen whenever I came 
across a packet of letters in our own ship addressed 
to the same vessels. Many sad ideas would instantly 
cross my mind; and I never could do more than 
take them up and put them in their place again 
directly. 

By this time I found, upon looking around, that 
my men, fatigued and weary, had, all but one, thrown 
themselves upon the bare ground, or upon their coats, 
and gone to sleep. Strange to say, though I had 
been awake and actively employed since seven the 
previous morning, I felt no great want of sleep now. 
It had been arranged, and we fancied it could be 
easily accomplished, for our ship to be down off 
Whaler Point early in the morning, and perhaps as 
soon as we could get there in the boat. It was now 
past eight, and I was desirous of seeing whether or 
no she was in sight. Accordingly, I walked outside 
the tent, passing between the sleeping forms of An- 
derson and Grate, whose hard breathing denoted 
their total sense of oblivion to every thing external ; 
and, merely exchanging a word with Rae, who was 
reading, I walked to the beach, seaward. But I 

T 3 



278 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBEBT. 

could see nothing in that direction. A heavy fog 
hung over the horizon and spread itself close in land. 
The only glimpse I obtained of aught beyond me 
was the ice extending in a more compact form right 
across the mouth of the harbour, and preventing the 
possibility of either boat or ship entering or passing 
out at that time. It also appeared that the ice ran 
out more to seaward^ and, if so, thought I, and this 
continues, it is certain we cannot get off to-day, even 
if the ship, which is not very likely in so dense a 
fog, could at all make out the land, and especially 
this particular point. Sober thoughts for the mo- 
ment came upon me. I remembered how Sir James 
Boss in 1848 got in here one day and could not get 
out the next if he had wanted ; and the reflection came 
that it might be so even now with us. To be under- 
stood, I must explain. If the ice should block up 
the entrance to the harbour to some distance, and a 
fog continued for any length of time, no chance of 
our ship or the other boat reaching us could be ex- 
pected. The weather might suddenly change, hard 
frosts set in, bay ice form rapidly, and soon cement 
together all the loose stuff at present floating about 
outside ; and in one day the harbour might become 
so blockaded as to prevent either ingress or egress. 
For miles it might occur that not a lane of water, 
and nothing but uneven hummocky ice would be pre- 



POSSIBILITY OF WINTERING THEBE. 279 

sented to our view. In such case it would be sheer 
madness for us in the boat attempting to leave our only 
sure and safe position on Whaler Point. Whether our 
vessel, herself, might be able to keep clear in seeking 
for us here would be a matter of doubt. She might 
be caught in a pack, become beset in the open sea, 
and drifted about powerless. That she would forsake 
us, of course never once entered my mind; but it 
might not be in her power to reach us in any manner, 
by boat or otherwise, if we ourselves could not get 
out. That we could not get out at present was per- 
fectly clear to me; and I involuntarily turned my 
eye back to the house to see what sort of habitation 
it would be likely to prove for the winter if needed. 
As I have previously mentioned, it was in many 
places rent and much torn ; the wind had forced a 
passage through the roofing, and the canvass, here 
and there, was in need of repair; but in other re- 
spects it was as good as I should imagine it was 
when first erected. A little management and at- 
tention would soon make it a very habitable abode. 
There was some housing and canvass, besides sails, 
inside, that would be more than enough to repair the 
damage it had undergone ; and, as I thought of this, 
my mind suddenly took a new turn. " What, after 
all," I said half aloud — " what, after all, is the evil, 
supposing any unavoidable accident should prevent 

T 4 



280 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBEBT. 

US again joining the ship? Here we are, a good 
house before us, plenty of fuel and provisions, all of 
us pretty well inured to hardship and exposure to the 
weather, and not a man of the party but what is 
ardent in the cause in which he embarked. We shall 
be at hand to render assistance shoidd any drooping 
stragglers arrive ; and we shall be prepared, perhaps, 
to do something ourselves next spring and summer ; 
by which latter time some means of escape, to the 
other ships or to some vessel, would be presented to 
us. The launch was there and might be usefuUy 
employed whenever open water came in sight, should 
we remain so long ; and we might really become of 
essential service should we have to winter there by 
ourselves. Far better off should we be than many 
poor fellows who had suddenly been cast ashore 
in the colder northern regions: and, certainly, we 
should be no worse, if so bad, as Sir John Ross and 
his party were at Somerset House, Fury Beach, in 
1832-3." I kept asking myself over and over, *^ What 
if this really should be so ? and your few men have 
to winter here ? " and I declare that I had a sort 
of half wish that it might be so. And as the idea 
grew on me I felt my wish increase that we might 
indeed be left there for the winter. We might do 
good, and at all events it would prove that, whatever 
might be my opinion as regarded the ship and her re- 



IDEAS SUGGESTED BY IT. 281 

turning to England this winter, It was from no per- 
sonal inclination to that effect; it would evince to 
those whose respect and esteem I valued, and whose 
friendship and support had been so kind, that I had 
no desire but to further to the utmost of my power 
the cause in which I had embarked. 

I rushed from the beach back to the tent, where I 
found the men still asleep ; even Rae had cast aside 
his book, and allowed nature's claims to overpower his 
passion for reading. I would not disturb them ; and 
accordingly walked out (no gentle tread being needed 
where men slept upon the stones so soimd), and, 
taking the direction of the hill, turned to my reflec- 
tions again. I bethought me of many things in con- 
nection with the subject. The control over men in 
such a position was principally in my mind. How was 
it to be maintained? The strait-laced formality or 
minute discipline that is used and necessarily employed 
in other voyages, would be absolutely worse than use- 
less here, and on a voyage and vessel like ours. It is 
a hindrance to the success of the attempt. The whole 
affair is out of the common order of things. A 
different kind of danger has to be met and man- 
fully withstood : a more than ordinary amount of 
physical and moral courage has to be brought into 
play to combat the terrible effects of the rigorous 
climate and the desolate region around us ; and it 



282 VOYAGE OP THE FBINGE ALBERT. 

• 

requires a shrewd and most skilful physician to 
deal with the mental maladies^ even more than the 
bodily ones^ which are likely to prevaiL When 
men find that upon extraordinary service they are 
tied down to the ordinary rules of common un- 
dertakings^ they cannot bring it within their scope 
of understanding : in plain terms they do not like it, 
and I do not see how they can like it ; they get die- 
spirited ; they have not that life and vigour which is 
required of them when most necessary^ and instead 
of proving the staunch and able men they ought 
to be, they become listless, indifierent, doing their 
duty simply because it is a duty, and, eventually, 
in all probability frustrating the real object of the 
voyage. 

But let an officer gain the affections of his men 
(which can be easily done, neither by too much 
familiarity nor by too much reserve), and he may 
lead them anywhere. I make bold to say to him, 
" Whatever be your wish, whatever be your danger- 
ous mission, it matters not : they care not for it : 
you, you lead them on : they know you : you have 
shared their labours hand to hand ; you were pleased 
when they were pleased ; looked to their wants when 
ailing : encouraged them by manly voice and cheerful 
word when fatigued yourself, as well as they ; and 
they ask not now, what you may do, but what you 



ID£AS SUGGESTED BY IT. 283 

want done ; and one and all will follow you." Such 
are the kind of officers who should lead expeditions 
employed on such services as the present. Sir Ed- 
ward Parry was one of these ; and I have no doubt 
I might name the whole of the Arctic officers ; but 
his voyage in particular I recal to mind as illustrating 
this truth. 

In the present instance I found a proof of my 
views being sound in practice as well as theory. I 
had walked again to the beach, the glass still in my 
hand ; but, though the fog was beginning to lift a 
little, I could see nothing of the ship. It was nine 
o'clock, and I proceeded on to our boat to examine 
if she was hauled up high enough, as the tide was 
evidently on the turn, and soon afterwards came in 
with great force, bringing large masses of ice into 
the harbour at a rapid rate. The boat was safe ; and 
I then turned to view the upper part of the basin. 
It was filled with ice closely packed, and apparently 
of last year's growtL I now returned to the house, 
and found some of the men stirring. Their first in- 
quiry of one another was about the ship ; and, upon 
being told that she could not be seen, with the 
careless indifference of sailors, they replied, "she 
might keep away entirely if she liked." Hearing the 
remark, I asked them what they would do, supposing 
by any accident she could not get near us, or we to 



284 VOYAGE OP THE PBINCE ALBEBT. 

her agaln^ and all of us have to be detained on shore 
to winter as we were. 

*^ We've got a good house here. Sir," said Ander- 
son, ^^ and we shan't starve for two years, any how, 
while there's all those hullee tins and meat casks 
there," pointing to the pile of provisions. In this 
remark all in more or less words coincided, and 
indeed seemed, if anything, anxious that the vessel 
should not come to take us off; expressing them- 
selves willing to remain there for a twelvemonth 
with pleasure. 

Now all these men were not mere youths, but 
grown-up persons near the middle age of life, and 
long accustomed to the whale fishery and its ad- 
venturous scenes, as well as acquainted with the 
severity of the climate. They spoke therefore with 
a perfect knowledge of what would have to be en- 
dured ; and when, afterwards, at noon, upon my still 
not seeing the vessel, and observing the harbour 
blocked with ice, I put the affair before them all in 
sober and impressive language, they kept to the same 
mind, and began to look about for what would have 
to be done towards their mutual comfort. If I had 
to winter, they would willingly do so too, and " go 
to work next spring to try and find Sir John." 

That we should have to sleep there that night I 
had made up my mind to, under any circumstances. 



PUNCH. 285 

for I saw no chance of our being able to get outside 
in the boat, even if the ship had been in sight, and 
therefore looked about to prepare accordingly. At 
one P. M., the fog had cleared from the land, and I 
could see our little vessel far off on the horizon, 
apparently near her position of the night before. I 
proclaimed the news ; and it was received by the men 
with anything but satisfaction. They wished she had 
left them altogether : they were quite happy, &c. &c, 
and though I was not blind to the fact that all this 
was probably the mere effervescence of the moment, 
yet I saw and felt enough to be convinced that, 
could I have obtained my desire to remain behind, 
and procured what I wanted, they would, one and aU, 
have readily remained with me. 

Before this, however, I had been employing myself 
in rambling about. In one place I found, singularly 
enough, a bit of " Punch," showing that even to this, 
the very farthest and most lonely spot of the earth, 
has our facetious and ever witty friend foimd his 
way. 

I then anxiously sought for the place where poor 
Mr. Matthias had been buried ; but I found nothing, 
except a heap of stones of an oblong form, which 
we at first took for a cairn. Whether this was 
the spot or not I have no idea ; but, at all events, 
I there paid that devotional tribute to his remains 



286 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

and memory which I meant to have offered at his 
grave. Had I been certain of the place I would have 
seen that it was still in order^ and replaced any 
damage that it might have sustained. 

I ascended towards the flag-staff^ which was on the 
hill about Cape Clarence ; but it was then too foggy 
on the summit for me to see £u:; and I therefore 
gave it up when halfway. Towards noon it became 
a most lovely day, and even quite warm. I had to 
throw off both my over-coats, and could well have 
dispensed with my heavy boots and hose, had I had 
any others to replace them. 

I )I had kept myself on the alert since we landed ; 
and I now began to feel heavy and tired. But 
the moment I saw the ship at one p.m. I had no 
longer an excuse for not making some very strenuous 
efforts to get out of the harbour. As she was 
coming down towards us, as near as the ice would 
permit, I determined to wait until she had got 
within a short distance, taking care, however, to 
watch the state of our icy barrier, to take advantage 
of the slightest opening that might be presented. 
About two o'clock I thought the ice slackened a 
little, and soon I perceived it take a turn, and leave a 
slight opening through which we could pass. All 
hands of us were, in a short time, at the boat, having 



GET THE BOAT THROUGH. 287 

carefully put away all the cooking utensils, &c., that 
we had been using. In a few moments the Gutta 
Percha was once more launched, and we were gliding 
rapidly out of the harbour, as we bade adieu to 
" Refuge Camp." I took a long look at Whaler 
Point, and the various things deposited there ; and 
most earnestly hoped that, should it yet be necessary, 
the place might be found as comfortable to those who 
needed it as we had found it. 

I now turned my attention to the barrier that was 
across the mouth of the harbour, but found that very 
little trouble was required to get through it, the whole 
having slackened so much as to have, at that momenty 
admitted our vessel with ease. As soon as we got 
clear and into comparatively open water, I felt myself 
giving way to sleep. I was literally overpowered, 
and dropping with fatigue. Since seven of the pre- 
vious morning I had been busily engaged, and, of 
course, had not for an instant closed my eyes. I 
now dropped my head upon the gunwale of the boat, 
and should, perhaps, have slept, but the sun was 
shining fiercely upon me. I therefore roused myself 
up, and as we neared our little craft, called upon the 
men to give their boat song, to show that we were all 
awake. They responded to it with good will ; and 
*^ over the wide waters away and away " did the 



288 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

sound fly to the now distant shore, returning Its 
echoes faintly as each cadence died away. The song 
effectually roused me ; it was a cheerful strain, albeit 
not very refined; and the bold chorus might have 
been heard afar off for miles. Lustily was it vocife- 
rated by each man, until the boat rounding to, ended 
the strain as we came alongside our ship. 



289 



CHAP. XXII. 

PLAN OP FUTURE PROCEEDINGS FOR THE VESSEL. 

OBSERVE A BRIGANTINE ENTERING THE INLET. — THE 
AMERICAN DISCOVERY SHIP "ADVANCE." — PAY HER 
A VISIT. — NOBLE GENEROSITY OP HENRY GRINNELL, 
ESQ., OF NEW YORK. — LIEUT. DE HAVEN, COMMANDER 

OF THE EXPEDITION. DR. KANE. BRIEF ACCOUNT OP 

THEIR VOYAGE. — THEIR BOLD AND DARING CHARACTER 
EVINCED, WHILE PASSING THROUGH HEAVY ICE. — SIZE, 
STRENGTH, AND EQUIPMENT OP THE ** ADVANCE." — 
THE "prince albert" FAIRLY TESTED, AND PROVED 
EQUAL TO THE TRIAL. 

I GAVE in my report to the captain^ and then gladly 
went to my cabin for the purposes of ablution and a 
change of dress. I might have been tempted to lie 
down^ and should have done so^ but there was work 
yet to do. The men who had been with me in the 
boat, were sent below to rest^ but matters of more 
consequence than sleep had to be discussed abaft. 

I was informed by Captain Forsyth, that, after 
we had left him on the previous evening, the cur- 
rent had set him in a calm so far down towards 
his morning's position, that it prevented his foUow- 

u 



290 VOYAGE OF THE PBINCE ALBERT. 

ing me close up : he had, however, burnt blue-lights, 
sent up sky-rockets, and fired several signal-guns, 
as well for the shore as for us, none of which we 
had heard or seen. The whole of the present morn- 
ing he had been becalmed in a fog, and only got a 
light breeze to help him about noon. I mentioned 
to him the state of the harbour exactly as I had left 
it on coming out ; but he told me he had fully made 
up his mind what to do, and requested me to give 
him a written opinion upon the subject. I again 
suggested the advisability of our examining Capes 
Walker, Hotham, and Riley, as there we might get 
some information to take home when we returned; but 
the first diflBculty that presented itself was, our going 
upon ground occupied by Her Majesty's ships. In 
considering this question, and urging it, I had no 
wish to trench upon their province, nor to take 
away from them any merit they might be entitled to 
by searching particular places according to their in- 
structions. On the contrary, had I any one feeling 
more than another, in reference to the national ships 
of my own beloved country, it was, that they might 
be successful, — that they might win the glory and 
the honour, so that some good return might thus be 
made to the nation for its noble generosity in sending 
forth these expeditions. I would rather that the 
government ships found those whom we were all so 



PLAN OF FUTUBE PROCEEDINGS. 291 

anxious to have found, providing they could do it 
before others. I wished all and every vessel, American 
or English, success ; for I had no other desire nor 
rivalry than that some of us might very speedily ob- 
tain good tidings. And, as for encroaching upon 
the peculiar ground of other ships, it was not, I 
thought, worth a moment's consideration. I then asked 
permission to have the gutta-percha boat, — whose 
admirable qualities in the ice, and on such dangerous 
services, I had so fully and so satisfactorily proved, — 
and to take her, equipped, manned, and provisioned 
as I might wish, for a week or fortnight, away to 
search in those quarters, or to try and fall in with 
those ships that had searched. Captain Forsyth, how- 
ever, deeming it too great a hazard for any boat to en- 
counter, decided upon visiting Cape Riley in the ship. 
At Captain Forsyth's request, I promised to write 
him a letter which should embrace my view of the 
question ; but as I felt myself unequal to the task at 
that moment, from excessive fatigue, I stated what 
would be the substance of it, and retired to my 
own cabin.* But sleep, as yet, I soon found was out 
of the question. On passing Leopold Harbour, the 

* The opinion given in to Captain Forsyth I still maintain, 
being convinced we could never have done any good or real ser- 
vice by remaining there during the winter. My reasons for such 
a conviction — erroneous, perhaps — are private, and need not 
be mentioned. 

u 2 



292 VOYAGE OF THE PEINCE ALBEBT. 

entrance was sufficiently clear for the hour, but a 
heavy stream of ice, reaching, in a half circle, from 
Cape Clarence and the island to nearly midway 
across Prince Regent's Inlet, proved that it would 
not long be as we now saw it. Large pieces of ice 
were floating about, and setting rapidly up the inlet. 
We had to stand away for some distance, to round 
the edge of this stream ; and as we approached the far 
end, we perceived that a vessel, which we had some 
time before seen, was apparently standing right in 
towards us. At first, we took her to be Sir John 
Ross's schooner, the "Felix," but a few momenta 
more settled the point, by her size and rig being dif- 
ferent, and her colours being displayed, which proved 
her to be one of the " Americans I " All idea of 
sleep was now instantly banished from me. The 
American vessels already up here, when we had fan- 
cied them still in Melville Bay, not far from where 
we bad left them on the 6th instant I Much as I 
knew of the enterprising and daring spirit of our 
transatlantic brethren, I could not help being asto- 
nished. They must have had either some extraordi- 
nary luck, or else the ice had suddenly and moBt 
effectually broken up to admit of their exit, unaided 
by steam or other help, in so short a time. I felt, 
however, a pleasure in thus finding my repeated ob- 
servations concerning them so thoroughly verified ; 



AMERICAN SHIP "ADVANCE." 293 

and I was not sorry for themselves that they were 
here. All exclusive nationality was done away with. 
We were all engaged in the same noble cause; we 
were all striving forward in the same animating and 
exciting race, and none should envy the other his 
advance therein. We showed our colours to him; 
and Captain Forsyth immediately determined to go 
on board of him, and see whether the same plan 
of search for him was laid out as for us. The boat 
was lowered, and in a short time we were standing on 
the deck of the " Advance," Lieutenant De Haven, 
of the American Navy, and most cordially received, 
with their accustomed hospitality, by our transat- 
lantic friends. 

The " Advance " was one of two vessels (the other 
being the " Kescue " — a smaller craft) that had been 
bought and fitted out in the most noble and gene- 
rous manner, solely by one individual, — Henry 
Grinnell, Esq., a merchant of New York. This 
truly great and good man had long felt his heart 
yearn towards the lost ones, whom we were now 
seeking, and their friends; and desiring to redeem 
the partial pledge given by the government of the 
United States to Lady Franklin, he yielded to the 
strong impulses awakened by some of her private 
letters, which he had had the opportunity of reading, 
and being blest with an ample fortune, he determined 

u 3 



294 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT/ 

to employ no small portion of it in sending out at his 
own expense an expedition to this quarter of the 
worlds to aid in the search that England was making 
this year after her gallant children. It required, 
however, not a trifliDg sum to accomplish this, and I 
well know with what distrust and doubt of its fulfil- 
ment the first notice of his intentions was received 
in New York and elsewhere, when publicly made 
known. But he was not a man, it has appeared, to 
promise what he means not, or cannot perform. At 
a very heavy outlay he purchased two vessels, one of, 
I believe, 125 tons, and the other of 95 tons, and had 
them strengthened and prepared in a most efficient 
manner for the service they were to enter upon. Ap- 
plying to the Congress of his nation, then assembled, 
he got these ships received into the naval force, and 
brought under naval authority. Officers and crews 
were appointed by the Board of Administration for 
Maritime Affairs, and the government, moreover, 
agreed to pay them as if in regular service ; making 
an additional allowance on each pay, of a grade in 
rank above. This having been accomplished, and all 
things in readiness, on the 24th of May, 1850, this 
excellent man had the satisfaction of seeing his two 
ships and their brave crews depart from New York on 
their generous mission. He accompanied them him- 
self for some distance, and finally bid them farewell 



LIEUT. DE HAVEN. 295 

on the 26ihy returning in his yacht to the city, where, 
as he has often declared, he can sit down now in 
peace, and be ready to lay his head at rest for ever ; 
knowing that he has done his duty, and striven to 
perform the part of a faithfiil steward with the 
wealth which he enjoys. 

The *^ Advance" was manned by sixteen persons, 
officers included. Her commander. Lieutenant De 
Haven, a young man of about twenty- six years 
of age, had served in the United States exploring 
expedition, under Commodore Wilkes, in the Ant- 
arctic Seas. He seemed as fine a specimen of a 
seaman, and a rough and ready officer as I had ever 
seen. Nor was he at all deficient in the characteristics 
of a true gentleman, although the cognomen is so 
often misapplied and ill-understood. With a sharp, 
quick eye, a countenance bronzed and apparently 
inured to all weathers, his voice gave unmistakeable 
signs of energy, promptitude, and decision. There 
was no mistaking the man. He was undoubtedly 
well-fitted to lead such an expedition, and I felt 
charmed to see it. 

His second in command (for they were very diffe- 
rently organized from us) was still younger and more 
slim, but withal of equally determined and sailorlike 
appearance. Next to him was a junior officer, of 

whom I saw but little ; but that little was enough 

u 4 



296 VOYAGE OP THE PBINCE ALBERT. 

to tell me that the Executives under Captain De 
Haven would be efficient auxiliaries to him. Last of 
all; though not least among them, was one of whom I 
must be excused for saying more than a casual word 
or two. It was Dr. Kane> the surgeon^ nataralist, 
journalist, &c. of the expedition. Of an exceedingly 
slim and apparently fragile form and make, and 
with features to all appearance far more suited to 
a genial clime, and to the comforts of a pleasant 
home, than to the roughness and hardships of an arctic 
voyage, he was yet a very old traveller both by sea 
and land. His rank as a surgeon in the American 
navy, and his appointment, at three days' notice, to 
this service, were sufficient proof of his abilities, and 
of his being considered capable of enduring all that 
would have to be gone through. While our captain 
was talking to the American commander. Dr. Kane 
turned his attention to me, and a congeniality of 
sentiment and feeling soon brought us deep into 
pleasant conversation. I found he had been in many 
parts of the world, by sea and land, that I myself 
had visited, and in many other parts that I could 
only long to visit. Old scenes and delightful recol- 
lections were speedily revived. Our talk ran wild ; 
and there^ in that cold, inhospitable, dreary region of 
everlasting ice and snow, did we again, in fancy, 
gallop over miles and miles of lands far distant, and 



DR. KANE. 297 

far more joyous. Ever-smiling Italy, and its softening 
life ; sturdy Switzerland, and its hardy sons ; the 
Alps, the Apennines, France, Germany, and else- 
where were rapidly wandered over. India, Africa, 
and Southern America were brought before us in 
swift succession. Then came Spain and Portugal, 
and my own England ; next appeared Egypt, Syria, 
and the Desert ; with all of these was he personally 
familiar, in all had he been a traveller, and in all 
could I join him, too, except the latter. Rich in 
anecdote and full of pleasing talk, time flew rapidly 
as I conversed with him, and partook of the hospitality 
offered me. Delighted at the knowledge that I had 
been residing for some time in New York, he tried 
all he could to make me enjoy the moment. Cham- 
pagne was added to the beverages already on the 
table, and the whole night might have been spent 
in one continued scene of enjoyment. To me it 
was a true feast for the mind; and I revelled 
in it to my heart's content. But nature's claims 
were strong upon me. I was obliged to explain 
how worn out I was, in order, at last, to excuse 
my apparent listlessness, as it drew on towards 
midnight : and I had to decline the invitation to ac- 
cept more of their hospitality. I carefully put away 
the letters given to me for their friends in America, 
and promised to send them by the earliest opportu- 



298 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

nity. We had not told them we were returning, 
but they thought we should have a better chance to 
forward despatches home than they would at Melville 
Island. 

If I had ever before doubted the daring and en- 
terprising character of the American, what I saw 
and heard on board of the " Advance " would have 
removed such doubt; but these peculiar features in 
the children of the Stars and Stripes were always 
apparent to me, and admiringly acknowledged. I 
was given a brief history of their voyage to the 
present time, as also an outline of their future 
plans. 

As I have stated, they left New York on the 
24th of May ; they called at Whalefish Islands ; 
and on the 7th July they were beset in the Pack, 
as seen by the " Truelove : " there they continued, 
making only twenty-one miles in twenty-one days* 
A heavy south-westerly gale gave them northern 
^Ueads" which induced them to change their run, 
and make northing. Finding, however, no " leads ^ in 
the direction of Cape Dudley DiggeSy they worked in 
shore, and there continued pushing on till the 15th 
August, when, oflf Cape Melville, they got into 
clearer water. For two days they were there be- 
calmed, and afterwards, determining to get to the 
westward, bore through some heavy streams of ice 



BRIEF ACCOUNT OP THEIR VOYAGE. 299 

On the 18th a strong easterly breeze opened a pas- , 
sage for them, and brought them to Admiralty Inlet, 
from whence they worked up, in light winds and 
calms, to their present position. On the 19th they 
had spoken Captain Penny, standing in for Lancaster 
Sound; and on the 21st they fell in with Sir John 
Koss off Admiralty Inlet, who soon afterwards stood 
away to the northward. They were now intending 
to have gone into Port Leopold, to see if the " North 
Star " was there, to send despatches by her ; but on 
our giving them the information we had gained of 
her having gone from thence, they renewed their 
original plan of going on to Wellington Channel, 
where their consort had preceded them, and was to 
await their arrival. They intended to push on 
wherever they could, this way or that way, as might 
be found best, in the direction of Melville Island, 
and parts adjacent, especially Banks's Land; and 
they meant to winter wherever they might chance to 
be, in the Pack or out of the Pack. As long as 
they could be moving or making any progress, in 
any direction that might assist in the object for which 
they had come, they meant still to be going on, and, 
with the true characteristic of the American, cared 
for no obstacles or impediments that might arise in 
their way. Neither fears, nor the necessary caution 
which might easily be alleged as an excuse for hesi- 



300 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBEBT. 

tation or delay, at periods when any thing like fancied 
danger appeared, was to deter them. Happy fellows! 
thought I : no fair winds nor opening prospects will be 
lost with you ; no dissension or incompetency among 
your executive officers exist to stay your progress. 
Bent upon one errand alone, your minds set upon 
that before you embarked, no trifles nor common 
danger will prevent you daring every thing for the 
carrying out of your mission. Go on, then, brave 
sons of America, and may at least some share of 
prosperity and success attend your noble exertions 1 

If ever a vessel and her officers were capable of 
going through an undertaking in which more than 
ordinary difficulties had to be encountered, I had 
no doubt it would be the American ; and this 
was evinced to me, even while we were on board, 
by the apparently reckless way in which they dashed 
through the streams of heavy ice running oflF from 
Leopold Island. I happened to go on deck wben 
they were thus engaged, and was delighted to wit- 
ness how gallantly they put aside every impediment 
in their way. An officer was standing on the heel of 
the bowsprit, conning the ship and issuing his orders 
to the man at the wheel in that short, decisive, yet 
clear manner, which the helmsman at once well 
understood and promptly obeyed. There was not 
a rag of canvass taken in, nor a moment's hesitation. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE "ADVANCE." 301 

The way was before them : the stream of ice had to 
be either gone through boldly or a long detour made ; 
and, despite the heaviness of the stream, they pushed 
the vessel through in her proper course. Two or three 
shocks, as she came in contact with some large pieces^ 
were unheeded ; and the moment the last block was 
past the bow, the oflScer sung out, " So : steady as 
she goes on her course ; " and came aft as if nothing 
more than ordinary sailing had been going on. I ob- 
served our own little barky nobly following in the 
American's wake ; and, as I afterwards learned, she 
got through it pretty well, though not without much 
doubt of the propriety of keeping on in such pro- 
cedure after the " mad Yankee," as he was called by 
the mate. 

The " Advance " was most extraordinarily fortified 
to resist any pressure of the ice, and to enable her to 
force her way against such impediments as those she 
encountered this evening. Her bow was one solid 
mass of timber — I believe I am right in saying, 
from the foremast. Her timbers were increased In 
size and number, so that she might well be said to 
have been doubled inside as well as out. Her deck 
was also doubled, then felted, and again lined inside, 
while her cabin had, in addition, a sheathing of cork. 
The after-part of the vessel was remarkably strong ; 
and a movable bulk-head, which ran across the fore- 



302 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

part of the cabin, could at any time be unsHipped 
to afford a free communication fore and aft when 
needed. The crew, if I remember rightly, lived in 
a strongly-built " round-house " on deck, amidships, 
one end of which was converted into a cook-house, 
called a " galley," and another the " pantry." Ten 
men formed the number of the working seamen ; 
there were no " ice-masters," nor regular " ice-men : ^ 
but most of the sailors were long accustomed to the 
ice. A steward and a cook completed the full com- 
plement of the ship. 

The officers lived in a truly republican manner. 
The whole cabin was thrown into one spacious room, 
in which captain, mates, and surgeon lived together. 
Their sleeping berths were built around it, and ap- 
peared to possess every accommodation to make them 
comfortable. But to my fancy, and according to my 
habits, I should have preferred some little crib to 
myself, to which I could have retired when I wished 
to be alone. In this respect, only, did I think the 
" Prince Albert" superior ; for on board of her I had, 
at least, a small cabin to myself, where I could quietly 
read, or write, and study as I chose. 

It was past midnight again before we parted from 
our hospitable friends, whose hearty and honest sea- 
manlike shake of the hand, as I bade each farewell, I 
shall not forget. Three cheers were given and re- 



THE PRINCE ALBERT FAIRLY TESTED. 303 

sponded to when we got on board, and, though still 
bound the same way, to Wellington Channel, yet the 
" Advance" being so deep in the water, made us soon 
pass ahead and distance her astern. 

Upon leaving our little craft when we first 
boarded the American, I could not help noticing, with 
a feeling of that pride which every sailor possesses 
for his own vessel, especially if she proves such 
a one as ours, that she really looked a pretty 
yacht-like thing. Small she undoubtedly was, and 
her smallness of size was more than ever conspicu- 
ous to the eye this evening, when contrasted with 
the Yankee brig and the aspect of all around her ; 
but she had proved herself eminently adapted for 
this service; she was a vessel any one might be 
proud of. With the fine open season now before us, 
able from her size and build, if checked in one place, 
to try in many other places, — drawing but nine 
feet water, possessing admirable sailing qualities, and 
always capable of being kept under conmiand, she 
might have gone almost anywhere, and was, most 
assuredly, the best adapted of all the vessels up there 
for minute examination of a coast, and that particular 
search for which we had, as I thought, been destined. 
And I was not alone in this feeling ; for the whole 
of the men, one and all, were ready to have gone the 
world all round in her, and to have dared anything. 



304 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

At half past twelve I managed to throw myself on 
my bed, literally done up, haying been more than 
forty-one hours without once closing my eyes, and 
all the while most actively engaged ; and I slept 
so soundly that not even the repeated shocks the 
vessel received while going through heavy ice in 
the night, once aroused me. 



305 



CHAP. XXIII. 

APPEARANCE OP THE ICE. — BARROW'S STRAITS. — CAPE 

HURD. OUTSAIL THE AMERICAN. "WELLINGTON 

CHANNEL. H. M. SHIPS " ASSISTANCE " AND *' IN- 
TREPID." — penny's TWO VESSELS. THE AMERICAN 

BRIG "RESCUE." CAPE SPENCER. NEW LAND OB- 
SERVED. POSITION OF THE DISCOVERY SHIPS WHEN 

LAST SEEN. — STATE OP THE ICE. — STOPPED BY HEAVY 
FLOES. BEECHEY ISLAND. THE "ADVANCE." — FLAG- 
STAFF ON CAPE RILEY. EXAMINE THE POINT. — IM- 
PORTANT NOTICE LEFT THERE BY CAPTAIN OMMANNEY. 
— SEARCH MADE. — TRACES OP AN ENCAMPMENT FOUND. 
RETURN ON BOARD. BEAR UP FOR P. B. INLET. 

Saturday, 24tth. — I HAVE often noticed when at sea 
the singular habit men have of awakening themselves 
at their accustomed hours. Let the noise be ever so 
great above their heads on deck^ the watch below 
will yet sleep soundly ; but the moment eight-bells 
has struck, they have a sort of intuitive knowledge 
that their turn for duty has come, and their eyes are 
instantly opened. Thus it was with me. I awoke next 
morning at the usual hour, and somewhat refreshed 
by my six and a half hours* nap, speedily dressed myself 

X 



306 VOYAGE OP THE PBINCE ALBERT. 

and went on deck. I found we were standing 
across to Cape Hurd on the north shore of Bar- 
row's Straits. The breeze was moderate^ and the 
sky was clear. Moreover, there appeared to be no 
large body of ice to intercept us on our way to 
Wellington Channel. A heavy pack, however, was 
observed from the " crow's nest," extending all along 
the coast of North Somerset, from outside of Leopold 
Island on the east, to about Cape Kennell, where it 
appeared to enlarge and take a curvilineal direction 
towards Cape Hotham. But this, at present, we 
could not well determine. Two vessels, which were 
perceived to be Penny's brigs, were to windward of 
us, working up along shore about Badstock Bay. 
The American brigantine was still astern of us, and 
we evidently sailed, on a wind, better than she did, 
though this was, no doubt, occasioned by her heavier 
draught of water, and being so deeply laden. Later 
in the day, three more vessels were observed at the 
mouth of the Wellington Channel. 

About noon, we were close in with Cape Hurd; 
and on this as well as on every part of the coast 
thence to Cape Bicketts, where we arrived about 
dusk, as close an examination was made as could be 
effected jTrom the ship. Several valleys and bays, with 
prominent features attached to them, were conspi- 
cuous ; and on these I bent an anxious gaze, until 



WELLINGTON CHANNEL. . 307 

night again prevented my seeing any more. The 
wind continued blowing steadily, in a moderate 
breeze, from the north- west (true); and it was, 
consequently, all working to windward with us. 
Our vessel, as usual, showed her excellent qualities, 
and lost no way whenever she tacked; which was 
done, in long and short boards, about every half-hour 
or hour, as was deemed requisite. It was a dead " beat " 
right to windward; yet, by the next morning, Sunday, 
25 th August, I found, upon going on deck, that we 
were at the entrance of Wellington Channel, and 
that our companion, the American, was hull down to 
leeward of us. The wind was precisely the same, 
but the ice was now clearly seen extending right 
across Barrow's Straits into Wellington Channel, 
which it, apparently, blocked at a short distance 
from where we then were. Our correct position at 
this time was for a moment or two doubtful. A. 
remarkable bluff cape was seen to the south-east 
of us, which might have been a cape not named ; 
and the high, steep land abreast of us, the inter- 
vening coast between Gascoyne Inlet and Cape 
Riley ; but upon reading Sir Edward Parry's clear 
description of the coast, and looking at the views 
given by him, I myself felt convinced that the 
bluff headland was Cape Riley, and the land 

abeam of us, Beechey Island. Commander Forsyth 

X 2 



308 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBEBT. 

thought SO too ; and as the Ice yet permitted us to 
stand on some distance farther^ we made short tacks 
in quick succession. When off Cape Spencer, about 
eleven a. m., it was seen that to go on without intend- 
ing to push forward and winter somewhere, would 
be a folly. The ice now extended, in a circular form, 
to near Point Innes, where it left a small channel of 
water, and, sharply turning off to the westward, formed 
itself into a few lanes and leads, through which the 
vessels to windward of us had evidently passed. It 
was therefore determined by the commander to go no 
further after twelve o'clock ; for should we get round 
the extreme point of the ice nearest the land, it might, 
with the wind in its present position, at any moment 
set down upon the shore, and thus cut us off. Ac- 
cordingly, a little before noon, I ascended to the 
mast-head, to take exact notice of all I saw at the 
moment of our bearing up. Our true position at 
that hour was about midway between Cape Spencer 
and Point Innes, having the ice within a mile of us, 
and ourselves about a mile from the shore. Looking 
to the westward, I could faintly perceive Cape 
Hotham, enveloped in a thick haze ; and the ** As- 
sistance," — distinguished by her gaff-topsail — appa- 
rently in a small " hole " of water, or else a ** lead,** 
some distance to the north-eastward of it, endea- 
vouring to get there. Not far from the " Assistance,*' 



AMERICAN BRIG "RESCUE." 309 

and either standing in the same direction, or trying 
to make way through the channel, was Penny himself, 
in the " Lady Franklin ; " her position was probably 
about mid'Channel. Astern of him at some dis- 
tance, in an easterly direction, was the " Sophia," 
also under all plying sail. Nearer into the eastern 
shore was the "Rescue," with the American co- 
lours flying — apparently, as our ice-master affirmed, 
" beset." All the vessels were among heavy ice ; 
and the whole of Wellington Channel, as far as my 
eye could reach, appeared to be filled with one solid 
pack, excepting here and there a small lane of water. 
Turning towards Cape Bowden, I could perceive 
beyond it, and apparently trending to the north-west^ 
ward, some high land, but the haze and distance was 
too great to enable me to determine with accuracy. 
Land, however, was there, but its continuance I 
could not make out, nor yet the entire connection of 
the coast between Point Innes and Cape Bowden ; 
for it must be borne in mind that, even at the very 
truck in our vessel, I was perhaps no higher than the 
lower mast-head of a large ship, like the ^* Assistance." 
I now moved myself round, and looked towards 
the south-west. It presented the same appearance as 
I have already mentioned. The ice in one heavy 
pack presented an apparently impenetrable barrier in 

that direction. The only clear water visible was that 

X 3 



310 VOTAGE OF THE PBINCE ALBERT. 

in our immediate vicinity and in the direction we had 
come. I could see nothing of the " Advance,*' and 
concluded that she was behind one of the points of 
land. I ought, however, to have mentioned that the 
'^ Intrepid" was also reported by the second mate to 
have been seen by him on the previous evening and 
this morning, and as he possesses a quick eye, I have 
no doubt of it ; though as I did not observe her from 
aloft I could not rightly give her position. 

It was a little after twelve that we bore up and 
stood close in under Cape Spencer. Here we hove 
to, and the commander sent the boat ashore to fill 
some breakers or small casks from a cascade that was 
observed trickling down the sides of the mountain. 
Coming down from aloft, I turned my attention to 
the shore. It presented the same barren and dreary 
aspect, as the coast of North Somerset, though of a 
far less wild and rugged appearance. I thought it 
possible that some scanty vegetation might be upon it, 
and I afterwards found my supposition correct. While 
off Cape Spencer, and during the morning, several 
white whales, with their young, the latter always 
known by their being black, were observed not far 
from us. They presented a curious and novel ap- 
pearance, and our men said they were very rare. 
One feature about them struck me with peculiar 
force, and was pleasing to witness. It was the 



BEECHEY ISLAND. 311 

care taken of the young by their dams. The latter 
were seen guarding their offspring with jealous watch- 
fulness, and keeping as steadily between the ship and 
them, at each movement made, as though they had 
possessed the knowledge and instinct of man. 

I took one more glance at the noble little fleet 
and their brave crews, forcing their way through the 
ice, and then turned my back to look no more. 

In about half an hour the boat returned, and we 
stood on our course. The bay, if so it could be 
called, between Beechey Island and Cape Spencer, 
was one that it struck me might suit for an anchor- 
age in the event of an easterly gale occurring at any 
time, similar to the one we experienced when first 
making for Port Leopold. The water shoaled gra- 
dually ; and the high land on either side gave it a 
good protection from any thing but westerly winds. 
As we again passed Beechey Island with its perpen- 
dicular rocky cliffs, I noticed more signs of vegetation 
than I had latterly seen, although it was still but 
scanty. The rocks looked as if tinged with yellow 
ochre or tarnished gold ; and in some places they 
bore a marked resemblance to the " Crimson Cliffs" 
about Cape York, on the other side of Baffin's Bay. 
Directly we had opened out Cape Riley we disco- 
vered the " Advance " apparently fast to an iceberg 

close in shore. At this moment a signal-post was 

z 4 



312 VOYAGE OF THE PBINCE ALBEBT. 

discovered on the pointy and forgetting all but that 
one fact, I eagerly called Captain Forsyth's at- 
tention to it* He observed it, and gave orders to 
have the boat in readiness for me to go and ascertain 
what news was there. We, of course, concluded 
that either Captain Ommanney or some of the other 
vessels had erected it, and my orders were to deposit 
a notice of our own arrival, and to bring off such in- 
formation as I might find. I was also expressly or- 
dered not to go on board of the American, and to be 
speedy, as we could not lose the fair wind we then 
possessed. Accordingly, when sufficiently near, the 
ship was hove to outside the point; and, having 
already put on my heavy " examination dress,** as I 
called the rough sea boots and apparel I wore on 
such duty, in a short time I was under the Ameri- 
can's stem. I perceived that he was not fast to a herg 
as we had supposed, but that he had got too far in 
shore. As I was passing with merely a hearty salu- 
tation, which I could not fail to give. Captain De 
Haven earnestly invited me to come on board, I 
begged to be excused, stating that I was in haste to 
examine the point and be off again. He then quickly 
informed me that he had been there ; and added some- 
thing which I did not rightly understand about 
"traces having been found." Startled at this, I 



FLAG-STAFF ON CAPE BILET. 313 

deemed it my duty instantly to get some further ex- 
planation; and running the boat alongside for a 
moment, jumped aboard. I found them all very 
busy; for by some accident they had got the ship 
aground, though they expected in a short time to heave 
her off again. I ventured at once to offer him any 
assistance in our power; but he thanked me, and 
declined aid, as not being required. I begged of 
him to hail our vessel if he found it needful, and 1 
felt sure that any help would be rendered him. I 
then got from him in a few words, that the " traces" 
he spoke of were some that Captain Ommanney had 
found, and that mention was made of them in the 
despatches I should find at the signal-post. They 
all pressed me eagerly to go below and partake 
their hospitality once more, but both my duty and 
my feelings alike urged me to be off. I thanked 
them, and with another hearty farewell went to the 
gangway. The boat's crew, however, sailor-like, 
had gone to lend their brother tars a hand at the 
windlass ; but at my cry of " Albert's there, away I" 
they instantly responded, and in another moment we 
were shoving off. Just as I was doing so Dr. Kane 
handed me a note for Mr. Grinnell, begging me to 
forward it by the earliest opportunity, which I pro- 
mised to do, and started for the shore. What my 



314 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBEBT. 

feelings were at this moment I cannot describe. The 
boat could hardly be pulled fast enough for me. Se- 
veral small icebergs were aground here, and we had 
to steer in and out between them. I was feverishly 
impatient. Traces of some kind or other, then, had 
at last been found ; and, at this place, I should have 
a knowledge of what they were. Numerous conjec- 
tures filled my brain. Was it here ? or, where ? I 
looked at the bold bluff headland with its low tongue 
and point running out into the sea before me. It 
was the same dreary-looking place as the others I 
had visited, although not quite so bad as some of 
them. As the boat touched the shelving rocks I 
hastily sprang out into the water, leaving the men to 
secure her; and ran to the signal- post about fifty 
yards off. I was there in a moment, with Grate 
close at my heels. A few paces off I observed another 
and a rougher post erected, but this one had a small 
flag flying, and was evidently the principal. I really 
cannot tell whether the cylinder handed to me in 
the course of a second or two had been buried or 
merely tied to the post, so intent was I upon con- 
jecturing what news I should receive. My hands 
trembled with eagerness, and I could hardly read the 
paper. It was as follows : — 



NOTICE LEFT BY CAPTAIN OMMANNEY. 315 

" Her Majesty* s Arctic Searching Expedition, 

" This IS to certify that Captain Ommanney, with 
the officers of her Majesty's ships Assistance and In- 
trepid, landed at Cape Riley on the 23rd of August, 
1850, where he found traces of an encampment, and 
collected the remains of materials which evidently 
prove that some party belonging to her Majesty's 
ships have been detained on this spot. Beechey 
Island was also examined, where traces were found 
of the same party. 

" This is also to give notice that a supply of pro- 
visions and fuel is at Port Leopold. Her Majesty's 
ships " Assistance" and " Intrepid " were detached from 
the squadron under Captain Austin, off Wolstenholme, 
on the 15th inst., since when they have examined 
the north shores of Lancaster Sound and Barrow's 
Straits, without meeting any other traces. Captain 
Ommanney proceeds to Cape Hotham and Cape 
Walker in search for further traces of Sir John 
Franklin's ex2)edition. 

" Dated on board her Majesty's ship Assistance, 
off Cape Riley, Aug. 23. 1850. 

"Erasmus Ommanney." 

Upon the perusal of this document, which I copied 
as hurriedly as I could, I felt grateful beyond mea- 



316 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

«ure to think we had called here. That we had 
visited Cape Riley was by my advice, when asked in 
Regent's Inlet for an opinion as to our Expedition 
returning home. I had earnestly entreated Captain 
Forsyth to allow me, in the gutta percha boat, if he 
would not take the vessel, to make an inspection of 
this very place, secretly hoping that something might 
be found to repay us for so doing ; and, moreover, 
as I fervently desired, lead us to pursue our re- 
searches still further. Grateful indeed was I then^ 
when I found that I had not advised unwisely ; and 
most anxiously did I hope, at the time, we should 
communicate with the *' Assistance," to get from 
her increased information. * 

As we did not communicate with Captain Om- 
manney, the news here gleaned was all that we could 
gather : and, however vague and unsatisfactory such 
information of the missing ones might be, still it 
was something, in the great chain of events that must 
be soon linked together, towards the elucidation of 

* Lieut. De Haven had also left a notice here, of which the 
following is a copy : — 

" United States Expedition in search of Sir John Franklin : — 
E, J. De Haven, Esq., commanding, 

" The brig * Advance ' touched on the morning of the 25th, to 
examine a cairn. She proceeds to Cape Hotham, where she 
hopes to meet her consort the * Rescue.' 

" AU's well." 



SEABCn 3IADE. 317 

that mysterious fate which appeared to environ those 
whom we sought ; and has, doubtless, tended to set 
many minds at rest in regard to the too readily re- 
ceived opinion, which had of late gained ground, that 
the ships had foundered in Baffin's Bay. I gave 
instant orders to institute a rigid search everywhere 
around, to see if there were yet any tokens left be- 
hind undiscovered by Captain Ommanney, that might 
lead to further explanation ; and in this search I also 
joined, the moment I had concluded my transcript of 
the news, and deposited our own notice. 

This notice I may as well here observe was merely 
a paper, stating that we had called at this place in 
search of Sir John Franklin, having been sent out 
by Lady Franklin for that purpose; that we had 
been to such and such places ; that depots of pro- 
visions were to be found at Leopold Harbour, &c., 
and that we were now " going to Cape York to be 
there guided by circumatances." I had a lingering 
desire that all the notices should omit any mention 
of our return until it was beyond all doubt; and 
rejoiced, therefore, that, in allusion to our intention 
to return home, these merely named, according to 
orders, the place where we intended to steer for 
next. This paper was always read and signed by the 
commander, who altered or amended it as he thought 
necessary. 



318 VOYAGE OF THE PBINCE ALBEBT. 

After the other signal-post had been examined, 
and a notice of the American's brought me there- 
from, I made a careful observation of everything 
around me, and commenced as close an investigation 
as the hurried nature of my visit, according to my 
orders, permitted me. The men had also, previously 
to my telling them, and with an alacrity that did 
them credit, conunenced a most prying search. One 
in a short time brought me about an inch and a half 
square piece of canvass well bleached ; another (the 
second mate) more fortunate, discovered a piece of 
rope, as I supposed a rattlin, and which was found 
to contain the Chatham Dock-yard Navy mark*; 
a third found a piece of bone with two holes bored 
in it. Beef bones, and other unmistakeable marks of 
the place having been used within some very few 
years by a party of Europeans, for some purpose or 
other, were discovered. The ground presented very 
much the appearance of having been turned into an 
encampment, for certain stones were so placed as to 
lead to the inference that tents f had been erected 

* Navy ropes have certain threads of red or yellow, &c., had 
in along with the yarns. 

f The men particularly drew my attention to these circular 
mounds of stones. I did not at first notice them, as they were 
not so extraordinarily prominent. I have, since my communi- 
cation to Sir E. Parry and Sir J. Kichardson, placed stones in a 
similar sort of circle, and measured the diameter of such circle. 
From this I nd that I made a mistake in saying, as I sup- 



SEARCH MADE. 319 

within some of their enclosures, and in others a fire 
miorht have been made, but no marks of fire were 
visible. Four of these circular parcels of stones I 
counted, and observed another which might or might 
not have been a fifth. It was clear that a party, as 
Captain Ommanney stated, belonging to some of 
her Majesty's ships had been there ; and as there was 
no one from any vessel who had landed there since 
the time when Sir Edward Parry sent an officer on 
shore to make observations in 1819, it could not but 
reasonably be inferred that it was Sir John Franklin's 
expedition that had encamped here and on Beechey 
Island. The mere thought that this was really the case 
gave to the otherwise barren spot new interest in my 
eyes. I surveyed it narrowly. It was, as I have before 
observed, a high bluff headland, with a low projecting 
tongue and point of land running from it into the sea, 
almost at right angles to the base of the under cliff, 
Tliis tongue was sufficiently broad to have accom- 
modated a tolerably large party, but it afforded very 
poor shelter from the winds or sea coming from any 

posed at the time, that the diameter was twelve feet and more. 
It could not, I now think, have been over seven feet. 

The admirable Report of Sir Edward Parry and Sir John 
Richardson, with some remarks of Colonel Sabine*s, together 
with the Report of Captain Superintendent Richards on the 
articles, &c., found at Cape Rilej, have been published in all 
the daily journals. 



320 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBEBT. 

quarter but that of the N. E. The high rock which 
formed the back ground of this patch of land was 
gradually reached halfway by moderately steep 
terraces, from which grew some scanty vegetation. 
There was, however, more verdure here, if I can so 
call the small supply of grass I observed, than I had 
seen anywhere on this side of Baffin's Bay. Being 
unfortunately no botanist, I could only refer after- 
wards to Parry's first voyage, and there found 
my own observations substantially correct. In one 
place I noticed some mud which would have done 
credit to not a few of the streets of London after a 
shower. In another part there was a finer and a 
better sort of sand, though the hard stony rock was 
everywhere perceptible. I could have lingered there 
for some time longer to continue my search, and I 
ardently desired to have examined Beechey Island, 
and indeed the whole adjacent parts, but I was 
warned by my watch that I had stayed as long as 
I could according to my orders, having been absent 
three quarters of an hour ; and having now some sort 
of news to communicate, and some results to show 
for our visit, I deemed it best to return on boardj 
much to my regret at not being able to make further 
examination. I gave in my report, stating simply 
what I had found, and what was contained in the 
despatches of Captain Ommanney. At the request 



STEEB FOR CAPE YORK. 321 

of Captain Forsyth, I afterwards gave him an out- 
line plan of what I remembered of the position of 
the stones and appearance of the ground; but I 
have endeavoured since to pourtray it for myself 
more clearly. 

As may be imagined, the news I brought on board 
created a great ferment amongst us all. 

When I reflected upon it I could not help consi- 
dering how important it would be to us at that mo- 
ment to fall in with Captain Austin, who had gone 
to Pond's Bay, and could not fail to be on his way 
to the rendezvous in these parts. However, we 
were not, as the result proved, destined to fall in with 
him. As the " Assistance" had examined the northern 
coast of Lancaster Sound and Barrow's Straits, it 
was considered of no use our tracing it over again ; 
yet I could not help wishing that I could do as I 
pleased for about a month, and go where I might 
desire. The half information I had gleaned at Cape 
Riley gave an additional zest to my personal inclin- 
ation for further search. A short time before, that 
is, after we had commenced our return, I was becom- 
ing indifferent as to what we did. However, the 
ship was running rapidly back on her way to Cape 
York ; but as the night set in, the wind gradually 
abated, and our speed was considerably lessened. 



322 



CHAP. XXIV. 

ENTRANCE OF P. B. INLET AGAIN. — THICK FOGOT WEA- 
THER. HEAVY FALL OF SNOW. LITTLE WINDi. 

LAND TO EXA3nNE A CAIRN ON THE SUMinr OF ▲ 

HILL. — NOTHING FOUNT). RETURN ON BOARD. 

CAPE YORK. CURRENTS. — THE " PRINCE AI.BEBT " 

DRIFTING IN SHORE. DANGEROUS POSITION. A HEAVT 

GALE. DARK NIGHT. CLEARER DAY. LAND SEEIT 

ON BOTH SIDES OF LANCASTER SOUND. ENTER ADMI- 
RALTY INLET. — CAPE LADY JANE. REHABKABLT 

CLEAR SEASON. 

Monday, 26th. — In the early part of the following 
morning we passed the extreme points of the ice that 
run out from Leopold Island, and it was reported at 
daylight that more ice could be seen extending far 
out, right across Fort Leopold, and also the entire 
inlet. When I was called on deck, however, at six 
A.M. to look at the land I found it too foggy and 
thick to see hardly a mile ahead. It was a most 
miserable morning, with very little wind, and occasional 
small rain, snow, and sleet mixed together, and so 
very thick and foggy that it was out of the ques- 
tion to determine accurately any of the points of land 
that we occasionally observed peeping out through 



THICK FOGGY WEATHER. 323 

the dense vapour that enshrouded them. About 
seven o'clock the fog lifted for a moment or two on 
our starboard bow, and I could see a rather remark- 
able cape, or hilly projection, with a conical mount 
above it. I at once took this to be the "peaked hill" 
mentioned by Parry, and accordingly when Cap- 
tain Forsyth came on deck at eight, I mentioned 
to him what I thought was our position. As we had 
been steering direct for Cape York, or a little inside 
of it, in the early part of the night, and as, after- 
wards, we had unavoidably to run more on the outside 
of that course to avoid the ice, it was evident that if 
we were in the place I fancied, either a strong set 
had carried us into the inlet, or some error (which 
w^as extremely probable) lay with our compasses.* 
Hitherto, however, we had found them to act, upon 
the whole, very well. They had never ceased tra- 
versing once since coming from the other side of 
BaiBn's Bay, and indeed the only place where we 
fancied them most sluggish was in Davis's Straits, off 
Disco. 

Agreeing with me as to our presumed position, the 
commander gave orders to keep the ship away along 
the land as close as we could go. The wind, how- 
ever, fell light, then calm, and ultimately sprang up 
again in faint airs and occasional light winds from the 

* See Parry's Remarks on his First Voyage, p. 37. 

T 2 



324 VOYAGE OF THE FRINGE ALBERT. 

N. E., the direction we wished to take. We wen^ 
therefore, all day engaged in tacking ship, on and off 
ehore, at a convenient distance. Whenever oppor- 
tunity presented, a careful inspection was made of 
the land, but the weather was too thick to obeerve 
much. In the afternoon it began to snowj though 
only, at first, slightly. One or two points of land, 
valleys, and, lastly, a deep ravine, were paaaed suflS- 
cicntly near to distinguish them plainly. About 
six r. M. we were all on deck, looking at a fine opening 
the vessel was a[)proaching, as she slowly stood in 
under all siiil towards the shore. It appeared a low^ 
swampy beach, having for the back-ground a mode- 
rately high, conical hill, behind which loftier moun- 
tains rose to double its height. I thought for the 
moment, from its apppearance, that this might have 
been one of the places on which Sir Edward Parry 
had landed to make observations *, and where he had 
left a notice of his visit. I accordingly looked 
eagerly for any marks that would distinguish it, at 
the same time searching for any of those tokens 
which might give us hope of finding further informa- 
tion. In a few moments, I fancied I saw something 
on the high hill before us ; and hastily snatched the 
glass from the second-mate's hands. I was not 

'* See Parry's Remarks on his Third Voyage. 



LAND TO EXAMINE A CAIRN. 325 

deceived. There, upon the summit of the conical 
mount, I clearly observed a cairn of stones, evidently- 
erected by civilised hands. It was enough : Captain 
Forsyth's attention being instantly drawn to it, he 
gave immediate orders for the boat to be lowered and 
the vessel hove to. Hastily donning my heavy boots 
and boat-jacket, and taking with me my old com- 
panion, the stout walking-stick, which was now found 
useful in aiding me to ascend the rocky heights, 
I put a cylinder and notice in my pocket, and was 
speedily ready for the shore. I received my orders, 
which were, as usual, with all speed to examine the 
cairn, deposit our notice, and to leave two cases of 
pemmican in some conspicuous place. The pemmican 
was put into the boat, and in another minute we 
were pulling rapidly for the shore, which was evi- 
dently a low, shingly beach. 

It was the worst kind of weather I had yet had 
for making an examination. It snowed very heavily, 
and the weather was so thick and gloomy as to put 
the ship out of sight in very little time. But yet it 
was a change to me. Well lined, inside and out, so as 
to be almost impervious to the cold or wet, I cared 
nothing for it; on the contrary, it was something 
new, and therefore not ill-relished ; and though all of 
us soon became like pillars of snow^ it was no more 

T 3 



326 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

cared for than if there had been none at all. Directly 
the boat touched the beach I gave orders for her to 
be hauled well up^ and one hand to remain with her ; 
the rest, bringing the spade and crowbar, were to 
follow me to the top of the hill. I foand the beach 
to consist of sand and stones ; and, at a short distance 
from it, a small stream, of no great depth, ran from 
between two high mountains, over a perfect swamp, 
towards the sea, in a transverse direction. Alto- 
gether, the resemblance of the place was exact to that 
given by Messrs. Beechey, Hoppner, and Sabine, to 
Captain Parry. I thought therefore it must be the 
same spot. As I had got the start, and was an old 
hand at pedestrianism, I succeeded by the aid of my 
faithful staff in soon mounting to the summit of the 
hill, which, in itself, was neither difficult nor steep 
perhaps at any other time, but which was made 
somewhat of a task by the pelting of the snow in one's 
face, and the heaviness of the atmosphere. I speedily 
knocked aside with my stick all the loose stones 
placed for a cairn, and finding no cylinder visible 
above the earth determined to look for it below. 
Accordingly, as soon as the men arrived, they were 
set to work, with pick and shovel, to clear a hole be- 
low the cairn ; the ground having previously at some 
time or other evidently been turned up for such 
purpose. Three or four feet in depth and width waSj 



NOTHING FOUND. 327 

after much exertion, cleared away ; but to my great 
vexation nothing was found. I had hoped that, even 
if we could not obtain anything here which might 
give us the news we most sought for, an old paper 
or memorial of Sir Edward Parry's would be found, 
and which would no doubt have afforded him much 
pleasure to have received on our return. But I soon 
perceived it was useless working any deeper, as the 
hard rocky substance that now met us convinced 
all that we had got as low down as had been dug 
before. We therefore concluded that either some 
one else had been here and taken away such paper, 
if there was one, without themselves leaving any no- 
tice of their visit, or that the cairn had been erected 
without any particular object by some of the whalers 
in their chance visits to so distant a part. The 
hole was, therefore, filled up again, and the cai^n re- 
erected ; the cylinder and notice I had brought with 
me being placed within the body of stones, visible 
on moving a few, but yet free from exposure to the 
weather. 

It was still snowing very heavily, and before we 
descended I tried to pierce the thickness around, in 
order to make out anything else that might be near ; 
but I could barely see a hundred yards. All was one 
white moving mist, and even the path of our descent 

T 4 



328 VOYAGE OF THE PBINCE ALBERT. 

was hardly visible. We returned by another way to 
that we had come ; but in so doing we came suddenly 
upon a small glacier^ which skirted the side of the hill 
to some distance. It was not so great an obstacle as 
to make any of us turn from our direct path, and 
consequently each man made over it without hesita- 
tion. Wilson went sliding down almost erect upon 
his feet^ with an impetus that might have done lum 
harm had he not been able to check himself; Harry 
Anderson squatted in a true Alpine manner, following 
his crowbar, that he had thrown before him, as 
swiftly as it had gone itself; Duguid, sending the 
spade a-head of him, took the slide, and got down as 
prettily as if on a mill-pond, and Mac Cullum, more 
careful, took it gently on all fours. I watched them 
for other purpose than the mere amusement of it, 
Frequently it is in these apparently trifling things 
that an officer may know what his men are really 
made of, far better than years of common-place 
observation, if he will but treasure in his mind the 
little characteristics that come under his notice 
when a man is following the bent of his own hardy ^ 
or, as the case may be, timid mind. For mjrself, 
I took the old Swiss fashion, and, with my staff 
for an " Alpenstock," had a speedy arrival at the 
bottom. When we got on the low plain again^ I 
observed several pools of water, besides the stream I 



SINGULAR BLACK ROCK. 329 

have mentioned, which, upon tasting, I found to be 
very sweet. The soil mc^ composed of a muddy 
clay and sand, and I directly thought of the many 
good mud-huts it might make, if a strong sunny 
day would only harden them after being built. 
We waded through the pools, and, occasionally 
sinking into the soil, got to the sea-side, at some 
distance from our boat, but near a most remarkable 
large, black rock, consisting of one solid piece of 
what I should call iron-stone. Having about me, 
what I always carried with my note-books, namely, 
a measuring-tape, I took the dimensions of this sin- 
gular block. It was T\ feet high, 40 feet in circum- 
ference at the bottom, and 31 J at the top. The 
stone itself was so evenly smooth on its round sur- 
face, and presented such a curious speckled appear- 
ance, that I could almost fancy it would serve on 
sunny days as a mirror for the natives, similar to 
what the Egyptian women in the olden times pos- 
sessed. I could not climb to the top of it unassisted, 
as there was not a single projection to lay hold off; 
so, calling one of the men, he gave me a back, and 1 
was soon able to spring on the tabular summit. 
This, with the exception of one or two small holes, in 
which were a few pebbles, evidently denoting that 
the sea came occasionally above it, or that the tides 
here rose more than 7^ feet, was as even as could be 



1 



330 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCB ALBKBT. 

dc8ircd by any one for a tabic ; and I only wished 
that a few of my friends at home, or any of you^ my 
kind readers, if agreeable to yourselves, were thexe 
with me at that moment, to have partaken of a colla- 
tion I could speedily have had brought up from the 
boat. 

I merely examined the top from curiosity, andj 
taking away a few pebbles, jumped to the ground. I 
chipped off a piece of the block, and then made my 
way towards} a small, hnmmocky piece of ground^ on 
which I had given directions for the pemmican to be 
placed in such manner, that, in itself, it would con- 
stitute a " mark." Along the beach, we found the 
ribs, &c., of a small whale, that had evidently been 
there some years. Two or three small pieces of the 
bone I picked up to take to England with me ; and 
then, hastily collecting a few geological specimens^ 
proceeded to the boat, after having seen the pem- 
mican duly fixed in its place. With the pemmican I 
left a pencil notice inside the boards that covered it, 
with a request that none but those absolutely in 
want would use the provisions here placed solely for 
the relief of Sir John Franklin and his party, and 
directing attention to the cairn on the left for further 
information. The boat was launched, and we then 
pulled rapidly along shore in the direction our ship 
had taken. Of course she could not be seen in such 



THE PRINCE ALBERT DRIFTING IN SHORE. 331 

weather, for it was still snowing as heavily as it pro- 
bably ever did ; but we heard the " gong " sounded for 
the " half-hour" when we were on the hill, and we now 
heard it again for the termination of, as I found by 
my watch, another hour since then. In a short time 
we saw the "little Prince " looming through the thick 
atmosphere, and presenting what, to some, would be 
the most dismal aspect she had yet shown. Every 
part of her, above and on deck, was white with 
snow ; her sails were hanging heavily against the 
masts ; her ropes all loose and disorderly, and every 
thing denoting that state of affairs in the weather so 
much disliked by seamen, — a foul-weather calm. 
There was not a breath of wind as we dashed the 
boat alongside ; but it was evident the tide or current 
was sweeping our little craft fast upon the south 
shore of Barrow's Straits, at the eastern entrance 
of Prince Regent's inlet. We were now, it ap- 
peared, off some low point, encircled with land-ice 
and one or two small bergs ; beyond it was another 
tongue-like point, from which abruptly rose a high 
and frowning, bluff headland. These two places 
we could make out through the thickness of the 
weather; but what else was in their vicinity it 
was impossible to say. We were drifting fast in 
shore, without power to help ourselves by the 
usual means of sails and steerage, A heavy swell 



332 VOYAGE OP THE FBINCE ALBEBT. 

was rolling round the second point, and every thing 
gave premonitory symptoms of a gale. The snow 
suddenly ceased ; but the atmosphere waa still 
as thick and dense as ever. Directly I had re-- 
ported myself, the boat, with fresh hands in her, 
was sent to tow the ship off the land. This was 
a labour of great diflSculty, for the set was strong 
against them. Now and then, a faint eddy of wind 
would come from opposite quarters of the compass^ 
and produce incessant trimming of the sails, to try 
and catch the fickle air. But it was of no use. It 
came but to play for a second upon the rising swell, 
and then vanished. Sweeps were got out to assist, 
and all hands, to the cook and steward, were actively 
employed. I had gone below to get my tea, and 
when I went on deck immediately afterwards, I 
found we were as close to the shore as we need wish 
to be in that quarter, with a dark, gloomy night 
coming on, and threatening weather. Should the 
gale, which we foresaw would inevitably arise in a 
short time, come from the north-west, we nught 
well wish ourselves in any other place. Our little 
craft, in such case, could hardly hope to escape con- 
tact with the ice and rocks. It was a moment of 
great anxiety, though, as usual with seamen, not a 
single thought of danger apparently entered th&i 
minds. Seeing all hands busily engaged, I took the 



DANGEROUS POSITION. 333 

helm^ which had been lashed amidships^ and kept 
her edging off the shore in the direction the boat 
was pulling. 

The boat was pulling heavily, and the men bent to 
their oars with spirit, but the ship barely moved. 
One thing, however, was satisfactory ; it was appa- 
rent that she did not drift any nearer, and that her 
progress towards the shore was checked. But hardly 
had we congratulated ourselves on this, when a 
" flaw " of wind, dead on to the land, took us aback, 
and lost us instantly what we had gained. The yards 
were speedily braced round to meet it, as her head 
swung off towards the beach. For a second or two 
we thought we had got the breeze: darker and 
darker grew the atmosphere ; and there was a sense 
of more than usual unpleasantness in the whole 
scene. The heavy swell rolled in with increased 
motion ; our vessel lifted to it uneasily, as if in dread 
of the tempest, of which this was the undoubted 
harbinger. She began to feel the helm under the light 
air that had come upon us, and she speedily moved 
in an angular direction along the coast, nearing 
considerably the second point. Here a valley or 
opening apparently intervened, and, as she came 
abreast of it, the faithless breeze died away as sud- 
denly as it had come ; the sails flapped heavily 
against the masts, and the vessel plunged deeper 



334 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

and deeper at each moment. The boat, which had 
prepared to come alongside when the north-west air 
had given us a hope of some wind, was again ordered 
to the tow-rope ; but hardly had she got hold of the 
line, when all at once, as if by magic, we felt the 
vessel move in a different current ; the dense atmo- 
sphere was pierced by a body of light resembling the 
glare of noon, and from the spot where it was thus so 
singularly rent in twain, a rushing sound was heard, 
and the next instant we felt the breeze coming 
strongly on us directly off the cape. It was. for- 
tunate ! Had it been a point or two the other side, 
or so as to give us a lee shore, we could never have 
weathered it in such a gale as now speedily came on. 
The boat was instantly called in and hoisted on deck, 
and in half an hour, before the entire strength of the 
gale was upon us, the " Albert " was under close* 
reefed mizen, double-reefed mainsail, storm jib, bow- 
sprit housed, and topsail furled ; while ever and anon, 
like a mad courser under fierce restraint, she plunged 
with her bows nearly buried into the tremendous 
rolling seas that came upon her, as if she would laugh 
them to scorn. And right gallantly, as usual, did 
she bear herself. Tossing aside each furious sea that 
threatened to engulph her, she rose buoyantly at 
every bound, and forged ahead without impediment. 
The gale which we had thus suddenly encountered 



A HEAVY GALE. 335 

blew, like the one we had had in coming past 
here a few days previous, from the eastward ; thus 
fortunately giving us plenty of sea room to leeward, 
and enough to stand away off the coast for several 
hours. About eleven p. m., however, it increased to a 
perfect hurricane, with a very high sea, and it was 
therefore deemed most prudent to heave to. Accord- 
ingly, the necessary sail was reduced for the purpose, 
and at midnight, when I turned in, she was in as safe 
a position and as comfortable as I soon found myself 
to be. My " lullaby " that night was the howling of 
the gale through the rigging, which could be very 
plainly heard below in the cabin, though my door was 
well closed ; and I was as nicely rocked to sleep as 
ever infant was by its watchful and tender mother. 

Tuesday 27th, — The following morning was 
somewhat more moderate, and we were able to set 
sail ; under which we were struggling to get on to 
windward, tacking and wearing alternately. The 
weather remained nearly as thick as ever, and no 
land could be anywhere distinguished. It was a 
disagreeable day altogether, for we could do nothing 
but patiently try and work against the gale. By 
night time it had moderated still more, and increased 
canvas was put upon the vessel. Thus it continued 
through the next ten or twelve hours ; and when I 
got up on the ensuing morning, Wednesday 28th, 



336 VOYAGE OP THE PBINCE ALBEBT. 

I found that the gale had died away into a light, 
zephyr-like breeze, which only fanned our cheeks 
sufficiently to let us know it lived. The weather, 
too, had cleared, and we could now see land on 
both sides as we looked down the Sound. That 
on the north shore appeared in high patches, like 
so many islands ; while the southern coast presented 
the same bold, hard features that I have already 
mentioned. A calm about noon followed the faint 
breeze we had been indulged with in the morning, 
and we now found ourselves lazily resting upon 
the water, as if no earthly purpose were in view. 
We perceived, by the appearance of the land on 
both sides the Sound, that we were between Croker 
Bay on the one coast, and Admiralty Inlet on the 
other. This latter place has a bluff headland at 
its western extremity, which was named among the 
places appointed for depSts of provisions, and aa 
worthy of examination. It was evident, by our pre- 
sent position so far to the eastward from Cape York, 
that we had received considerable help from the 
strong current which is so much spoken of as running 
to the southward along this shore ; but I am inclined 
to think that neither current nor tide can be regularly 
determined on such a coast as that which we were 
examining. It is probable that the general tendency 
of the current is to run out of the Sound, from 



ENTER ADMIRALTY INLET. 337 

what may be called its right commencement off Cape 
York ; but in all the bays, inlets, and channels it has 
a direction according to the prevalence of the winds. 

During the afternoon a breeze again sprang up, 
and this time from the north-west ; consequently, 
fair. It was gentle, and the weather kept fine and 
clear. We accordingly ran well into Admiralty 
Inlet, passing, as I believe. Cape Craufurd, and 
reaching close up to a long low point, some distance 
up this noble arm of the sea. I do not know if any 
name has been applied to this spot, but it is about 
opposite to Cape Franklin, and I believe Captain 
Forsyth meant to have called it Cape Lady Franklin, 
if it has not already received a title. As the evening 
was remarkably clear, I ascended to the mast-head to 
note what might be seen further up this fine sheet of 
water. I could make out another cape on the western 
side, not far from our present position ; and then the 
land appeared to trend suddenly round Cape Lady 
Franklin, out of sight. Beyond it, immediately up 
the inlet, I could faintly distinguish high land, which 
I judged to be " Humphrey's Land ; " but there then 
came a break on either side, exactly as represented in 
the charts ; and it appeared to me extremely probable 
that there might be some extensive channel of com- 
munication existing, not only between this place and 
Prince Regent's Inlet, but also to the eastward. 

z 



338 



CHAP. XXV. 

PASS CAPE LmiRPOOL. — OFF P05SE3510X EAT. LAND 

THERE. — CAL3I. — FALL Di WITH THE "NORTH STAB." 

— GETTING STORES FROM THE HOLD. FRESH BREEZE 

AND A FOG. 

Apteh examining the western arm of the Inlet, we 
stretched across towards Cape Charles Yorke, and as 
we passed Elwin Bay the breeze began to freshen np 
to a half gale^ which carried us on with great rapidity. 
A mist gradually settled down upon the hills, hiding 
their snowy peaks from our sight; but the land 
about Cape Yorke^ which here becomes much lower 
than any other part of the coast in this neigbourhood, 
was clearly visible. Several large and small bezgs 
were observed in the inlet, many of them aground, 
but not a particle of field ice could be seen there. 
During the night it blew hard again, so much so 
as to cause the mate some alarm lest the ^' Prince 
Albert" should run up against a berg or floe. But 
he need not have alarmed himself, as there certainly 
was very small danger of that^ with the excessive 
care always taken about it by him to the contrary. 



CALM, 339 

Thursday 29th, — However, about two a.m. in his 
watch, he reported to the Commander that the gale 
was increasing and blowing very hard ; and, conse- 
quently, he received orders to take in sail ; which, 
he did most rigorously, by reducing the whole can- 
vass on the ship's mast to about as much as wouldy 
with the same wind, have lessened her speed one 
half. As if thanking him for his pains, and in 
mockery for the unnecessary trouble he had given, 
and the loss of so many miles in distance which the 
fair wind would have placed on our log, he had no 
sooner accomplished his task than it fell almost calm I 
Perhaps this, however, which has often been satiri- 
cally called the " Irishman's hurricane," was the 
increased ffale he saw, and which no one on the deck 
saw or felt with him. But there it was ; and the 
issue of it proved that we had most unnecessarily lost 
a good three hours' run, making somewhere about 
twenty-four miles. Thus the over caution which 
was ever in operation upon us, again, as it had 
frequently done before, caused our being unneces- 
sarily retarded in our progress. 

When I came on deck in the morning I found that 
the second mate had been undoing all that the first 
mate had done, and that his whole watch had been 
employed in making that sail which was taken in in 
the preceding four hours. The wind was so light 

z 2 



340 VOYAGE OF THE PBINCE ALBERT. 

that a cambric handkerchief might have been set as 
a skysail and received no rent in it. Occasionalljj 
about nine o'clock as we came under the lofty Byam 
Martin mountains, the wind would rush down the 
valleys and ravines in squalls, but with not sufficient 
violence to produce any decrease of the sail set at 
eight A. M. At noon we were off Cape Liverpool 
again, and I could not but view it with mingled 
feelings of vexation and regret. A short ten days 
only had passed since we were there on our way to 
the destination marked out for us. I was then look- 
ing at it with prying eyes and anxious hope ; full of 
life and animation at the idea that we had actuaUy 
entered upon the field of those labours in which I 
had embarked, and in which I felt such delight. 
Now we were on our way back : but, let me stop : it 
is enough to say that I was miserably depressed, 
so much so as to feel quite ill in consequence. But 
there we were : Cape Liverpool and its singular 
coloured water exactly as it was on the morning of 
the 19th; only the ship's head at that time and 
the present was in opposite directions. 

In the afternoon the wind became foul and we 
made but little progress. The day, however, was 
exceedingly fine and beautiful, and perfectly warm. 
Several icebergs were in sight around us and afar 
off; and numerous flocks of birds, with large parties 



POSSESSION BAY. 341 

of the eider duck on the wing and upon the water, 
diversified the scene. Now and then a seal would 
pop up his head to inhale some fresh air, and the 
mollemokes^ as usual, flocked round us in their usual 
numbers. We slowly stood by Cape Fanshawe, and 
then opened out Possession Bay, from which we 
were distant at eight p. M. about seven miles. It was 
then calm, and as there was no prospect of going 
ashore there this evening I turned in at ten o'clock, 
desiring one of the mates to call me, if Captain 
Forsyth meant to examine this place at three A. M, 

Friday ^Oth. — Accordingly, at that hour, I was 
informed that the boat was ordered, and the Com- 
mander ready to go on shore. No objection being 
made to my also going, I was soon ready. The 
morning was exceedingly calm and the water very 
smooth, so that it seemed more like pulling across a 
pleasure lake tftan upon a sea within the Arctic 
circle. The air, however, felt unusually cold ; and, 
altogether, it was a very different affair to any pre- 
vious landing I had made by myself. Hardly a 
syllable was uttered during the whole hour or more 
that passed before we got to the beach ; and a sort 
of gloom rested upon all of those who heretofore at 
any examination were always full of life and spirits. 
Possession Bay, if indeed the mere roadstead, it 
seemed to me, can be rightly called a bay, is well 

z 3 



342 VOYAGE OP THE PBINCE ALBEBT. 

described in Parry's first voyage, and need not, there- 
fore, occupy any space here. 

We found a great deal of surf on the beach, and 
it required much caution to prevent the boat being 
sunk under the heavy rollers that came in. The 
moment her bow touched the ground, we jumped out 
up to our knees in water, to drag her up high and 
dry. As I had no official duty, this time, to per- 
form, I merely sauntered along, examining the place 
for my own pleasure, and looking for those marks 
which I was ever most anxious to find, whether 
on duty or not. Two hands were left in charge 
of the boat, and to get up a fire for boiling some 
water for our breakfast ; and the rest, with crowbar 
and shovel, followed us along the beach. At a diort 
distance off, on a rise of the ground, a cairn was 
discovered. Thither we proceeded, following some 
footsteps that were plainly to be seen on the hard 
ground, and denoting that some one with boots 
or shoes had not long before us been there. The 
nature of the ground and soil, I observed, was far 
superior to any I had yet seen. Indeed, it was 
quite a change ; and signs of vegetation, however 
scanty in comparison to more southern parts, were 
abundant. Some feeble roots of young trees I found, 
and several samples of wild flowers; and, as we 
walked on, a flowing rivulet met us descending from 



POSSESSION BAY. 343 

the mountains, and rushing towards the S, E. part 
of the bay In a curvilineal direction, but with frozen 
banks on either side. We waded across this at 
its mouth, and in a short time got to the cairn. 
The mode of leaving a notice, as ordered in the 
general instructions on this subject, had been here 
adopted. From the cairn a line of stones had been 
placed bearing south from it, about ten feet. It then 
terminated where a fire had evidently been made; 
and it was at this place the men had to dig for in- 
telligence. Accordingly the " crow" and shovel were 
set to work, and, after a little labour, a box was 
found about three feet from the surface of the 
ground. This being speedily opened, a cylinder was 
extracted from it, and in the cylinder a written 
notice purporting to be from Her Majesty's ship 
" Resolute," which vessel had called there on the 18th 
inst.. Captain Austin in the " Pioneer " having gone 
to Pond's Bay the previous evening. The paper was 
signed by the senior lieutenant, and contained no 
further information. While the men were busy 
filling up the hole again, I started off to a higher 
position, where, upon something like a hilly mount, 
I observed a large stone, apparently placed there 
conspicuously by civilised hands. I soon reached it, 
and found myself on the brink of a steep descent on 
the other side to a narrow valley, through which the 

z 4 



344 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

small river wound. About the stone itself, which I 
minutely examined, I found nothing to denote where 
any information could be gained, though I could not 
but fancy some one — perhaps Sir James Boss's 
party last year — had been there, and shot a poor 
little bird, which I picked up close to the stone. 
Sundry chips and cuttings of wood, too, made me 
stronger in the belief of the place having been before 
visited later back than a month, and I was scruti- 
nising the block to see if I could make out any 
words or letters upon it, when I heard the hail for 
my return, and hastily writing our vessel's name and 
the date in pencil upon the smooth surface, I re- 
traced my steps. One or two pieces of whalebone I 
picked up on my return, and, as usual, filled my 
pockets with geological specimens. 

When I reached the boat, I found orders had 
been given to get off at once, and not to mind the 
fire. Accordingly, everything was put into her that 
had been taken out ; and then with some diflSculty 
we launched her through the surf, all of us, the Com- 
mander too, getting well soaked and wetted, from 
our soles half upwards and more. 

While in the boat I had fancied I could see a 
vessel in the north-east quarter, and this was con- 
firmed soon after we got on deck by the report that 
one was clearly to be distinguished there. Varioue 



FALL IN WITH THE "NORTH STAB." 345 

conjectures were instantly set afloat as to what ship 
it could be. Hopes of falling in with the " Resolute," 
now, had gradually left me, as I hardly thought she 
would still be here after so many days ; and, as we 
had not met her coming along the coast, I concluded 
that she had passed us either in the thick weather 
off Cape York, or had on the preceding day gone 
to Port Leopold while we were at Wellington Chan- 
nel. I had always been in some sort of expectation, 
however slight, that we should have made one more 
examination of the Inlet and Whaler Point, if pos- 
sible, in order to get the latest news from there ; 
but this not having been accomplished, I had then 
turned more strongly to the chance of falling in with 
Captain Austin in our progress down, or hearing of 
him at Pond's Bay. That the present strange sail 
was he I had not a thought, unless it was that he 
had, from some important cause or other, gone up to 
examine Jones's Sound, and was now returning. It 
was more likely to be some whaler who had got 
round Melville Bay at a late period ; but as the day 
advanced, and she gradually approached us, the wind 
apparently not failing them, as it had done us, we 
came to the conclusion that it was the ** North 
Star ; " and in this we were not deceived. That she 
was there, instead of being, as we all had expected, a 
long way ahead of us, was a matter of great sur- 



346 VOYAGE OF THE PBINCE ALBERT. 

prise ; until I began to recollect that a part of her 
original instructions was to examine Jones's Sound 
if she had time. This gave an elucidation, as I 
thought, of the cause of her being there. 

The remainder of the day was calm and fine. We 
drifted along and off the coast some few miles, but 
nothing to speak of; and our time was employed in 
trying to fill up our fresh water from the ice pro- 
cured at a neighbouring berg. This work is at- 
tended with a great deal of tedious labour, as the 
ice has to be melted, or rather boiled, to turn it into 
water, and consequently is not much liked. 

When I went on deck the next morning I found 
that the strange vessel had come sufficiently near for 
us to assure ourselves that it was the " North Star." 
The weather was still pleasant, and it had been calm 
or nearly so all the night. About a quarter past 
seven, I believe, a boat was observed to put off from 
the " North Star" and approach us. At a quarter to 
eight it arrived alongside, and an officer came on 
board. A few common-place questions were barely 
asked by him and answered by me, when Captain 
Forsyth having been duly notified, came on deck, 
while I went below to hastily prepare a note I had 
begun to my wife, and also one to another friend, 
announcing our unexpected return. I found, how- 
ever, by the time I had concluded my epistles that 



GETTING STORES FROM THE HOLD. 347 

the boat had left, after only a momentary stay, and 
taking our commander to the other vessel. After 
some little time it again returned with him, and I 
made sure of the opportunity thus presented ; and, 
with the letters we had brought for the ** North 
Star," handed in my own, requesting they might be 
posted on arrival should she, as was extremely pro- 
bable, reach home before us. I should most as- 
suredly have written to Lady Franklin, but I did 
not wish to take such duty out of the hands of my 
superior, especially as he told me that the " North 
Star" would receive despatches for England from us, 
and tliat he should send an account of our proceed- 
ings to her Ladyship. This, however, as will be 
seen, wc lost the opportunity of doing, much to my 
vexation. 

During the forenoon all hands were busily engaged 
in breaking out the main hold to get up such stores 
and provisions as we should require on the homeward 
voyage. Before this was completed a breeze sprung 
up from the southward, and I felt extremely anxious 
to get the hatches on again. Captain Forsyth was 
still below busy with his despatches for the Admiralty 
and Lady Franklin, I having copied the former for 
him, and as I glanced around I perceived a thick fog 
coming on which would soon obscure the land. I 
knew there were no bearings taken by the mate to fix 



348 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBEBT. 

our position, and as this was important^ I took a 
rough guess before it was too late. The fog came on ; 
the " North Star" was last seen on the larboard tack 
stretching in towards the land, and upon our weather 
quarter at some little distance of£ At this moment 
Captain Forsyth came on deck, and instantly, with 
much vexation that the mate had not done it before, 
gave orders to put the ship about after the " North 
Star." But we did not see her again during the 
day. The hatches were battened down and all made 
snug by the afternoon, when it began to blow rather 
fresh. 



349 



CHAP. XXVI. 

INFORMATION FROM THE "NORTH STAR.** — VERY THICK 
WEATHER. — CLOSE IN WITH THE LAND. — FERTILE 
VALLEY. — ESQUIMAUX HUTS. — POND's BAY. — NIGHT- 
TIME. VERY DARK AND GLOOMY. PROCEED IN THE 

BOAT TO EXAMINE FOUR PROMINENT POINTS OF LAND. 

— MIDT^IGHT AGAIN. ROCKETS AND BLUE LIGHTS. — 

ESQUIMAUX ENCAMPMENT. — NO OTHER TRACES FOUND. 

— ERECT A CAIRN AND LEAVE A NOTICE. — RETURN 
TO THE SHIP. 

The information which we gathered respecting the 
" North Star," I will merely glance at. After leav- 
ing Port Leopold, where she had had great diflSculty 
in getting the boat off which she had sent on shore 
there, having to employ three more boats to get her 
through the ice, she went towards Port Bowen, 
which was found to be entirely blocked with ice. 
From Port Bowen she stretched across out of the 
inlet, and spoke Captain Penny, and afterwards 
Sir John Ross. From these parties they had 
learned all the great news which made this year 
memorable as regarded the Arctic seas. They 
next proceeded to Navy Board Inlet, and there, on 



350 VOYAGE OP THE PEINCE ALBERT. 

the main land, behind WoUaston Island, they landed 
their extra provisions and fuel. A gale coming on 
obliged them to loose an anchor and cable, and finally 
they ran out, mid channel, through Lancaster Sound, 
where we first saw them. During their winter so- 
journ they had lost four men from causes not, at- 
tributable to the climate, and a native who had gone 
on board with his feet frost-bitten also died. They 
had been put on two-thirds allowance of provisions, 
and had found a great deal of the preserved meats 
furnished them from England very in^fierentr 

The result of this news was in many respects gra- 
tifying as regarded our little vessel. There never was 
perhaps a clearer proof of the great advantage that a 
small vessel like ours has, when on such a service as 
that in which the " North Star" was employed, minus 
the carrying provisions. The morning was very tluck 
and foggy, with a light foul wind. Captain For- 
syth was still very anxious about our position, and 
I told him where I had put it down when the breeze 
came on ; and that, calculating the courses and dis- 
tances we had run since then, I concluded we were 
close in with Cape Graham Moore at about ten o'clock. 
The weather still continued such that it was impos- 
sible to see any distance, and the light air which 
blew, or, rather, that current of air which the fog 
propelled towards us, gave us very little help. Sud- 



CLOSE IN WITH THE LAND. 351 

denly we perceived, through the heavy darkness 
around, a still darker object loom out grimly. It 
was a high and almost perpendicular rock, soon 
showing itself to be a prominent headland. This I 
felt was either the cape, or close to it ; but no one 
well could say so positively, on accoimt of the 
manner in which it only half exposed itself to us. 
It was so close that we could hear the dash of the sea 
upon its base, and we fancied the vessel was being set 
in upon it ; accordingly, the boats were ordered out 
to tow. At this work nearly the whole of the day was 
passed. Occasionally a faint air would help us on for 
half a mile, but it would then die away and leave us 
quite becalmed, and with nothing to look at but the 
dense atmosphere around. Once or twice it cleared 
enough for us to see our way, and to make out two or 
three angular capes or high rocky points on our bow. 
These, we thought, were the mere projections of in- 
dentations in the coast between Cape Graham Moore 
and the cape inside the entrance of Pond's Bay. 
One of the clearer intervals suddenly opened out to 
us a low oval-like valley, presenting every appearance 
of great verdure and fertility. Upon it I fancied 
I could make out some Esquimaux huts, but no signs 
of animal life were visible. The sudden manner in 
which the curtain was drawn aside from this valley 
gave to it a far superior aspect to what perhaps it really 



352 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

merited ; but I could not help for the moment assimi- 
lating it, however great the difference might reallj 
be, to the far-famed Val d'Ossola first seen firom 
the Simplon Pass in Italy. This arctic vale cer- 
tainly gave as bright and pleasing relief at that 
moment, and among those wild and rugged scenes, as 
the other could in its own neighbourhood. 

It was eight in the evening when a fresh breeze 
again sprang up, and this time from the north-east. 
At the same moment it cleared away in that quarter 
of the horizon, and, for a short time, also ahead. We 
then saw the " North Star"yar away to seawardyhaying, 
apparently, stood well out during the preceding night, 
and being kept there by the day's calm. Trimming 
our sails to the breeze, we gently glided through 
several icebergs along the lofty iron-bound rocks on 
our starboard hand as we stood in to Pond's Bay, 
looking out for the long low north point on which It 
was said notices would be placed. It was still thick 
weather, and was getting dark, so that we could 
only judge that the bay was unusually clear of ice. 
It is very rare to find it clear altogether ; but, save 
the bergs which we passed, nothing like ice presented 
itself. About ten o'clock we gradually neared two 
points of land, which in the dim light, or rather early 
darkness, presented something like the appearance we 
were in search of. Accordingly preparations were 



NIGHT SEARCH. 353 

made for the boat to go on shore and examine^ and 
I was glad when Captain Forsyth gave me the duty 
to perform. 

It was something new to me to make a night 
search, with the night dark in this wild and rocky 
region. I soon prepared myself, and at eleven 
o'clock, when sufficiently near, the ship was hove 
to, and the boat lowered. I was directed to search 
three points of land, that were dimly visible on the 
bold coast before us ; and, beginning with the ex- 
treme eastern one, turn back upon the others if I 
found it necessary. When I left one point to go to 
another, I was to bum a " blue light ; " and, when I 
was coming off to the ship, to ignite a ^* long light," 
as a signal for the vessel to pick us up. On board, 
in the mean time, they would burn ^^ blue lights," and 
send up ** rockets" occasionally, that I might know 
their position. 

Putting a canister of provisions, &c.. In the boat 
with the ^* lights," crowbar, shovel, and other 
materials, besides a good lantern and the usual 
notice, I started from the ship a little past eleven. 
The night was not particularly cold ; but it was dark 
around, though somewhat clearer overhead. A star^ 
the first I had noticed for a long time, was observable 
in the heavens above, to the north-west ; and, as I 
saw the scud flying past it, I was forcibly re- 

A A 



354 VOYAGE OF THE PBINCE ALBEBT. 

minded of homc^ to which alone^ such an apparent 
stranger in this region seemed to belong. The wind 
was freshening up to a moderate breeze^ and sent the 
spray over the boat as we crossed it to reach the 
easternmost pointy hj this time a little nearer the 
entrance of the bay, in consequence of the ship having 
slightly shot ahead of it. A short but a vigorous 
pull soon brought us near enough for me to see that 
this place was not the one we wanted. Lest, how- 
ever, there should be anything upon it, I ordered the 
boat to be pulled close in, with an intention, if pos- 
sible, of landing. But this, I found, was not possible 
without too much endangering the boat. A craggy, 
high projecting piece of rocky shore was what pre- 
sented itself; and the sea dashed around and upon it 
in such a manner as to prevent too near an approach. 
I went right round the three sides of it in the boat, 
so as to bring its whole outlines into view between 
myself and the clearest light afforded by the sky ; but 
nothing was observed by any of us. Accordingly I 
here burned my first " blue light," and stood away 
for the second point. This was very similar to the 
other ; and, in like manner, nothing could be seen 
upon it. We now looked forward to the third, whioh 
was evidently a long, low point of table land. To 
make sure that we passed nothing on the way, I kept 
close in to the shore ; indeed, so close, that once I had 



NIGHT SEARCH. 355 

to stand ofi' again^ on account of some small rocks 
under water, which grazed the boat. Two or three 
ravines and a stream were passed ; and then, getting 
sufficiently near to a good beach, I had the boat run 
aground in a secure place, where a bight of a small bay 
centered, and sprang ashore with the lantern in my 
hand. Though the point had appeared very low at a 
distance, we did not find it actually so on reaching it. 
An ascent up a loose stony bank soon brought me to a 
spot which, in comparison with any I had yet visited, 
was perfectly refreshing to see. A species of grass 
covered the whole soil, and my boots were wet ; not, 
as usual, with salt water, or a river flood, but with 
the moisture from the vegetation, which grew up to 
my ancle in height. I took one hasty glance around, 
as I recovered my breath, and amid the darkness of 
the night (now about twelve o'clock,) and the strange- 
ness of my position, I could not help looking with 
something like solemnity upon a scene which had 
many impressive features attached to it, alike wild 
and wonderful. Another Sunday was just passing 
away, and I felt myself none the worse for ending 
that Sunday with a humble and spontaneous prayer 
to Him who had so oft befriended and upheld us. I 
knelt down upon the first stone I met ; and as I stood 
again erect, new life seemed to enter into me, as 
the time denoted that a new day and a new week 

AA 2 



356 VOYAGE OF THE PRIKC£ ALBERT. 

had again commenced. Upon ascending to the level 
of the land I was going to examine^ a rocket was 
fired from the ship^ suddenly cutting through the 
darkness of the nighty and darting upward, until it 
burst at a great height into numerous glittering 
fragments, that appeared like so many bright and 
glorious stars descending from heaven. 

I walked at once to the extreme point, holding 
my lantern close down to the ground that nothing 
might escape me. Everywhere the grass grew 
luxuriously, save in certain places, where numerous 
small circles of stones and vacant enclosures denoted 
that a large encampment of natives had, not long 
since, been there. Seal-bones, bits of whalebone, 
and other sundry remnants proved, as the men who 
now came up observed, that the " Yacks" had been 
there, probably to the number of about fifty, only a 
short time back. Perhaps, thought I, they may be 
here now, and have retreated upon seeing us and 
our lights approach. I looked into the dark space 
which formed the back ground of this low pro- 
montory. High mountains ascended on either^side, 
and at the root of the tongue, on which we stood. 
Grim in their solemn colour, we could barely ob- 
serve their outline, much less if any living thingi 
man or beast, were there. I continued my search. 
Nothing, however, denoting a cairn, or place of 



NIGHT SEABCH. 357 

concealment^ could be found. It was very likely 
that some other point of land might have been 
selected by Captain Austin, and fancying I saw 
one a little further up the bay, I determined to go to 
it. We therefore descended again to the boat, and, 
first of all giving the men a little refreshment, 
launched her into the water, and pulled away in the 
direction I had noticed, firing another blue light as a 
signaL A rocket was the reply, and in the course of 
fifteen minutes more we were close to the point I had 
observed. We here found it more difficult for the 
boat to be hauled up ; so ordering two hands to re- 
main in her, to keep her off the rocks, I landed with 
my lantern, the rest of the men bringing crowbar 
and shovel. 

The ascent here was steeper and more difficult than 
the previous one. Large stones were scattered about 
in every direction, and, to all appearance, the debris 
of some convulsive movement in nature lay upon our 
path. I soon found that instead of being on a point 
of land, as it seemed at a distance, we were merely 
mounting to the summit of one of those angular pro- 
jections which a high coast frequently presents clearer 
to the view in thick or foggy weather than any other 
part of it. To reach the extreme top, I speedily as- 
certained would be, not only a labour of difficulty, 
but uselessly occupying more time than the position 

A A 3 



358 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBEBT. 

of our ship at night, in an unknown bay, would war- 
rant. I therefore took a triangular peak that jutted 
out from the main rock^ about two-thirds of the waj 
up the high, mountain-like cliff, and which stood at a 
good height from the sea, as the spot on which 
to erect our cairn and leave the notice ; giving up as 
hopeless, owing to the darkness of the night, the dis- 
covery of the place where Captain Austin might have 
left desimtches. Accordingly we set to work, and the 
cairn was erected upon the edge of the peak on its 
nearest point to the sea. 

It was a curious sight to see us thus engaged, in 
so wild and lonely a place, at that solemn hour^ 
when the gloomy shades of Erebus seemed to roll in 
greater density than ever around us. A stranger look- 
ing suddenly upon the scene would have found it a 
novel one. Standing erect upon this rocky projection 
more than halfway up a mountainous cliff unknown to 
any of us, and not capable of observing aught beyond 
a stone's throw on either side, I held the square 
lantern, with the solitary light it contained, shining 
upon the two men ; who, busily engaged, were 
loosening the stones for our purpose. All three of 
us, apparently alone in that dismal place, and as 
if engaged in some mysterious occupation that would 
not brook the light of day, might well have given 
a feeling of surprise to any one that beheld us; 



BETUBN TO THE SHIP. 359 

and I almost smiled to myself as I thought^ that if 
the natives were to come upon us while so engaged, 
they might be awed and checked in any bad purpose 
by the fancy that we were occupied in some super- 
stitious rite. 

Directly the task was completed we descended to 
the beach, and hailing the boat, were speedily pulling 
away towards the ship. A " long light" was burned 
as I left the shore, and holding this in my hand we 
shot across the waters by its glare, like Charon and 
his boat crossing the Styx in the realms of Tartarus. 
It was half-past one when we got on board, and 
having given in my report to Captain Forsyth, I 
retired to rest. 



A A 4 



360 



CHAP. XXVIL 

HOMEWARD BOUND. — EXTRAOBDINABY CLEARAKCE OF 
ICE. — STEADY FAIR BREEZES. — REMARKABLE RUN 
FROM WELLINGTON CHANNEL. — LAST OP THE ICE- 
BERGS. — SEND THE crow's NEST DOW^, AND PUT 
AWAY THE " ICE-GEAR." — CAPE FAREWELL ONCE MORE. 
— USUAL GREENLAND GALE. — SPLENDID BREEZES 
AGAIN. — SEE A SMACK AND TWO OTHER VESSELS. — 
NEAR THE FAROE ISLANDS. — ANOTHER FURIOUS GALE. 

Monday 2d. — The following morning I found we 
were in something like a mess. The ship had drifted 
far up the bay, a very thick fog hid all the land 
from view, excepting now and then portions which 
resembled none we had seen last night or on the pre- 
vious evening, and the breeze had changed right in 
upon us. All we could do therefore was to tack and 
tack in short boards, and with an anxious eye look 
out for any hidden danger. Whether we were on the 
inland side of that western opening at the end of the 
bay through which and beyond which it is supposed 
another sea might be found, or on the eastern side of it, 
we could not tell. And, truth to say, for myself I 
would have been as well pleased as not to have found 



DISCOVEB THE *^NOBTH STAB" AGAIN. 361 

myself there under any other curcumstances than 
the present, my time not being my own, nor pos- 
sessmg power to attempt anything new or requiring 
energy in the execution. I had long had a wish to 
enter upon those unknown inland seas and traverse 
their length and breadth to their termination ; and never 
could there have been a finer opportunity than the 
present for it. But now our every effort was needed 
to get us out of the bay, while we might have the 
means, before any heavy gale came on, or the current 
set us too far up. Accordingly the whole day was 
employed in actively beating to windward; and 
when, in the afternoon, it cleared up a little, we dis- 
covered that we were not far off the south shore of 
the bay, somewhat in the meridian of Cape Graham 
Moore. The evening set in with light airs and thick 
weather. Just before dark we once again discovered 
the " North Star " to the northward of us, at some 
distance, apparently trying to get into Pond's Bay ; 
and, about ten p.m., we fired two rockets and burned 
a blue light as a signal to her, Captain Forsyth 
being most anxious to speak her. Our lights were, 
probably, not observed, as no return to the signal 
was made, and we saw the " North Star " no more 
during the passage.* 

* I believe it was the intention of Mr. Saunders to have 
given us the advantage of his company for the remainder of 



362 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

Tuesday 3d. — This day is but a repetition of the 
past one^ there being little wind, with gloomy 
weather and inclined to cold. We made but very 
poor progress, and that principaUy to the eastward 

Wednesday 4tth. — The next twenty-four hours 
presented no change until about five p.m., when a 
breeze sprang up from the southward, dispelling the 
thick gloom^ and enabling us to keep the ship steady 
on a wind easterly. 

Thursday 5th, — Throughout this day we had 
moderate breezes from the southward with cold grey 
looking weather. There was very little ice in sight 
except berys, which were sprinkled about in their 
usual numbers. We perceived the land to the west- 
ward covered with snow, and distant about twenty- 
five miles, Cape Bowen bearing W.J S. 

Friday 6th, — NothiDg of note occurred on the 
following day, except that the weather was more mild, 
and that there was a thick fog. We were standing 
away to the east, thinking it probable, if the wind 
continued the same for another day, that we should 
have to cross Davis's Straits in that latitude. To- 



the passage through the ice, as we supposed it then to exist : 
but it will here be seen how this did not take place owing to 
the fog. It was not, however, owing to any had sailing or fault 
of the " Prince Albert ;" for we actually got into Fond*s Bay 
twenty-eight hours before the " North Star." 



STEADY FAIR BREEZES. 363 

wards evening, however, the breeze seemed inclined 
to favour us more ; and the next morning (Saturday 
7th), we tacked, and stood away to the south-west, 
nearly in the course we wished to go. Several ice- 
bergs were in sight, and the weather was very thick 
and gloomy ; but as the barometer stood high, we 
hoped soon for a favourable change and a northerly 
wind. This came in the afternoon, and we were again 
able to set our larboard studding sails. About ten 
p. M. the weather cleared, and the heavens appeared 
in all that lovely beauty which the starry firmament 
presents on a cold and frosty night at home. The 
polar star shone conspicuous, though not so bright 
as many others; but it was the star I had often 

looked at when at sea, and now it most caught my 
attention. 

Sunday Sth, — This day commenced with a splendid 
breeze from the northward, which sent us on at seven 
or eight knots an hour. The weather was thick and 
gloomy, and numerousberffs were observed, but no field 
or stream ice. At eight P. M. it was at first thought 
advisable to heave to, but ultimately Captain Forsyth 
decided upon going on, and keeping the advantage of 
so fair a wind. During the night, which was very 
dark, we rapidly passed many icebergs, but a bright 
look-out was kept, and there was consequently no 
fear. 



364 VOYAGE OP THE PBINCE ALBEBT. 

Monday 9th. — The next morning and througbout 
the day we had the same strong, steady breeze, with 
alternately thick and clear weather. It was sur- 
prising to us that we saw no ice, and our hopes 
began to rise that we should not meet with any. 
At noon we were in lat. 67° 42' and long. 55° 42', 
which placed us very near the east coast of Davis 
Straits, and well down them ; and therefore, if the 
breeze continued like this another day, we should, 
in all probability, be clear of the usual vicinity of 
ice, and once more at sea. In the evemng, sail was 
shortened to an increasing breeze, and at midnight 
ten knots an hour was entered in the log. 

Tuesday lOth. — Another day similar to the last, 
though much finer and more clear. We were cer- 
tainly making a famous run of it down the straits, 
and our position at noon bade us soon look out for 
the land about Nikasop on the Greenland coast. 
Very few bergs showed themselves, and not a ves- 
tige of other ice was to be seen. I could now, I 
thought, safely put away the clothes, &c. which I had 
packed in a bag, in case of need, six weeks before, 
and which I had all along inconveniently retained in 
my narrow cabin close to my berth. All the boats, 
too, were got on board and stowed on deck, and the 
ice-gear unshipped and sent below. 

Wednesday 11 th. — This day was but a continu- 



RAPID RUN FROM WELLINGTON CHANNEL. 365 

ance of the past one as to wind and the splendid 
sailing we enjoyed. The weather was hazy and 
thick, but our reckoning at noon made us distant 
from Cape Comfort only ninety miles, our position 
in the evening being much about the same as it was 
at noon the 6th of July last. 

The crow's nest was now got down, and every 
thing prepared for a passage across the Northern 
Ocean. 

Thursday \2th. — The following day, at noon, 
we were beginning to round the south part of Green- 
land, and gradually bear up for England. We still 
enjoyed the same steady favourable breeze, which 
continued for five days and a half without in- 
terruption. It was remarkable. Indeed the whole 
of our passage from Wellington Channel, and, I may 
say, from the time we left the ice in Melville Bay, 
was perfectly surprising. I do not think there is 
another instance on record of a vessel coming direct 
from Barrow's Straits to Cape Farewell without once 
being stopped by ice, or even seeing any in her way. 
It is unparalleled in the present annals of arctic 
navigation, and will remain a most notable in- 
stance of the extraordinarily clear season in those 
regions this year. That it was performed by so 
small a vessel, though a matter of gratulation to those 
concerned in it, had nothing to do with the fact itself; 



366 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBEBT. 

and I have mentioned it only as a moat remarkable 
instance of the clearness of the sea in parts where it 
is rare indeed to find one week's free sailing. 

Friday \Zth, — Towards evening the wind at 
last died away^ and the next morning it came foul 
from the eastward and south-east. The weather was 
cloudy with rain, but very warm, at least to us who 
had been used to a colder temperature. As the night 
again came round, symptoms of a breeze presented 
themselves, and the ensuing morning (Saturday 
14th) the usual gale of wind off or about Cape Fare- 
well came on. I say usualy for there is not one ves- 
sel out of ten that escapes a good blow and heavy 
sea here. Like Cape Horn in the Southern Ocean, 
it must always be guarded against; and though I 
have twice doubled that redoubtable headland (in 
one vessel with top-gallant studsails set) without 
experiencing, in its immediate neighbourhood, aught 
but light winds, yet it was found, and has been 
found by many, that the breeze was blowing some- 
where not very far off. And so with Cape Fare- 
well. Which ever way a vessel is bound, I am told, 
she is always sure to meet with a heavy gale. 

This time we had it from the eastward, a complete 
hard and dead-on-end blow. But we could not 
grumble; so, making ourselves easy, all sail waa 
taken in, but what was enough to steady her, and 



UNFAVOURABLE WEATHER, 367 

we allowed the sea^ which was of its usual height, 
to break about at its pleasure. 

In the afternoon a most unpleasant altercation 
took place between the two mates, to which I shall 
not allude further than to state that it was necessary 
for Captain Forsyth to interfere oflScially. 

Sunday \6th, — There was less wind this day, 
but with a vile cross sea, foggy weather, and rain. 
We could make no progress on our proper course, 
and therefore merely set what sail was necessary to 
keep her moving to the southward. We had again 
more disputes on deck to-day, between those who 
ought to have avoided them ; but, after all, every 
blue jacket will grant that a foul wind, head sea, and 
thick murky weather are a sore chafe on the temper. 
At all events I will make this excuse, and hope that 
it may pass. 

As night came on the wind decreased to a calm, 
but the sea continued most unaccountably agitated. 
The ship rolled and pitched enough to knock every 
stick out of her, and we expected every moment to 
see our long foremast go by the board. 

Monday \^th. — The next morning brought no 
cessation to this restless agitation. The weather 
was gloomy and most disagreeable, while two seas 
were running against each other at right angles, 
producing a commotion in the water like the Race 



368 VOYAGE OP THE PEINOE ALBEBT. 

of Alderneyy only of a more majestic and wilder 
character. 

In the afternoon a breeze sprang up from the 
N.E., changing towards evening to N.W., and 
blowing hard^ so as to oblige ns to reef and shorten 
sail. 

Tuesday 17 th. — Throughout the whole of this 
day and the following (Wednesday 18th) we had a 
steady breeze in our favour from the N.'^W., with 
alternately clear and cloudy weather. On Thursday 
19th, a smack was observed to the northward of us, 
and standing the same way as ourselves, but 
evidently not sailing so welL The same even- 
ing (Friday 20th), it lightened from the S, W., ac- 
companied with rain and squalls ; but the wind con- 
tinued steady from the westward, and consequently 
fair^ until Saturday morning, when it changed to the 
N. E., and barely enabled us to lay our course. 

Saturday 21 st — This day brought us within 
490 miles from the Butt of Lewis ; and we began, 
all of us, to think of home. I was no doubt glad that 
we were likely to be soon there ; but I should have 
been a great deal more pleased had it been our good 
fortune to have remained out in the way I had hoped 
for. But this was not to be, and therefore the 
quicker we got home the better. 

Sunday 22d. — Throughout this day we had fine 



HEAVY SQUALL. 369 

cleat weather, with light, north-easterly winds. Lat, 
58° 12', long. 18° 4'. Butt of Lewis, 346 miles. 

Monday 2M. — In the evening it was calm, but 
next morning the wind sprang up from the south- 
ward, and continued so all day. A barque standing 
to the S. W. was passed ; and our friends the MolU" 
mokes^ which had kept us company the last three 
months, now bade us adieu. All departed except a 
solitary couple, and they left us on the following 
day, 

Tuesday 24th. — The next forty-eight hours we 
had a foul wind from the S. E., with fine clear 
weather. Occasionally it blew in heavy squalls; 
and, on Thursday 26th, it freshened up to a gale, 
and obliged us to shorten sail accordingly. 

On Wednesday we had found ourselves too far 
towards the Faroe Islands, and at two p.m. tacked 
to the S. W. Thursday and Friday we kept on in 
the same direction, the weather alternating between 
fine and cloudy, and the sea rather high. 

Saturday 28th. — The past evening had indicated, 
by the barometer, a great and sudden change ; and 
during the early part of the night, the wind was 
veering about in the S. W. quarter, first to the west- 
ward and then to the southward, accompanied by 
heavy torrents of rain. The heavens were as black 
as I had ever seen them ; and the sea presented that 

B B 



370 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBEBT. 

grim look which is the sure attendant of a gale iir 
such weather. At midnight a most furious squall 
suddenly came up from the W. N..W., blowing for 
the time fearfully heavy. It had been the second 
mate's watch^ and he had well prepared for the occi^ 
sion, evincing that good though rough seamanship 
for which he was always conspicuous. Every stitch 
of canvass but that which was necessary to lay her 
to, if needed^ was taken in ; and away she scudded 
under bare poles, when it was found that the wind 
kept aft. At daylight a topmast studding sail was 
hoisted as a temporary sort of foresail to run her under, 
and with that mere bit of canvass only we made five 
miles an hour. As the morning advanced, however, 
and the weather cleared, more sail was set, and we 
soon increased our speed to eight and nine miles an 
hour. 



371 



CHAP. XXVIIL 

DIFFICULTY OF TAKING A LUNAE OBSERVATION IN A 
GALE. — SIGHT RONA AND BARRA ISLANDS. — BLOWING 

VERY HARD. HIGH SEA. MAKE CAPE WRATH LIGHT. 

— DANGER OF THE " NUN ROCK." — HEAVE TO FOR 
THE NIGHT. — NEXT MORNING RUN THROUGH THE 
PENTLAND FRITH. — LOVELY DAY AND REFRESHING 

SCENERY. CHANGEABLE WEATHER. — MORAY FIRTH. 

— ANOTHER HARD BLOW. — A LEE SHORE. — ADMIRABLE 
QUALITIES OF THE "PRINCE ALBERT.** — ARRIVAL AT 
ABERDEEN. 

It was now necessary to determine our position as 
accurately as we possibly could; for, by our usual 
and daily reckoning, we made ourselves, at eight a.m., 
not above fifty or sixty miles from the nearest land, 
which would be the Island of Barra. 

I had, on the previous day, taken a lunar under 
difficult circumstances, owing to the motion of the 
ship, and this motion was considerably increased now ; 
but the sky was, though with occasional light clouds, 
sufficiently clear for the purpose, and the moon was 
within excellent distance. As I had done before, so 
now, I determined to take the entire set of ob- 

BB 2 



372 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

servations myself^ and work up the altitudes in the 
usual way. 

As this is all mere nautical detail, I will only 
observe, that it is mentioned to show what difficulties 
there are in the way of a seaman who has to navigate 
any ship on the ocean, and also to prove how highly 
essential and useful lunar observations are at sea. 

Now we had been in great doubt about our chro- 
nometers for some time past, and had given them a 
different rate three times : the last was off Possession 
Bay. Still we were, from many causes, uncertain 
as to their accuracy ; and consequently it was ad- 
visable, if possible, to test them by other means. 
The only means by which we could do this were 
those similar to my present attempt of finding the 
longitude from an observed distance between the sua 
and moon. On Friday, the result of the observation 
I then made tended to show that we were some 
twenty miles to the eastward of our reckoning, either 
by chronometer or daily log. Now this was most 
important, for, being to the eastward of our reckon- 
ing, necessarily made us nearer the land than we 
imagined ; and in thick weather, or such a gale as 
now blowing, was far from safe. Accordingly, at 
seven A.M., I determined to make another trial; 
but I never took a lunar under such difficulties 
before. The sea was washing over our decks^ the 
wind was blowing furiously, and the vessel rolled 



TAKING A LUNAR OBSERVATION, 373 

and tossed about like a bladder.* I thought there 
would be little hope of dependence on any observa- 
tions which might be taken; but, first steadying 
myself firmly in a part of the rigging, I got the 
altitudes of the sun and moon, noting the time by a 
common watch. To measure the distance, I was 
obliged to wedge myself between the bulwarks, and 
recline my back full length on the water-cask lashed 
there ; and in this position I remained several mi- 
nutes, till I succeeded in getting three pretty fair 
distances, and such as I thought I could trust to. 
I next hastily took another set of altitudes of the 
moon and sun in due rotation, and then gladly 
relaxed myself from my irksome position. 

Captain Forsyth afterwards took sights for the 
chronometer, and during the morning we respec- 
tively worked our own observations. At noon a 
good latitude was obtained, and thus I could com- 
pute my longitude to a nicety. I had compared the 
common watch with the chronometer, and was, con- 
sequently, enabled to work up the sights I had 
taken of the sun. By these, I made the longitude 
r 18' 45'' W., Captain Forsyth's observations 

* I may add, for the nautical reader, the hint that, as it was 
mornings the moon west of the sun, I had the extra fatigue 
of being obliged to turn the sextant, and hold it suspended from 
my hand. Those who have tried this for half an hour, well 
know the additional labour caused thereby. 

B B 3 



374 VOYAGE OP THE PRINCE ALBEBT. 

making it nearly the same; and, by my lunar, I 
made it 7° 6' 15'', still to the eastward. By further 
calculation it was soon ascertained that our distance 
from Barra was, in the first case, 34 miles, and, in 
the latter, 28 miles. "We ought therefore," we 
said, '^ very soon to see land ; " and hardly had the 
remark been made, and the results of our observa- 
tions entered in the log, when "Land hoi" was 
sung out from the mast-head, and running up to 
the topsail-yard, I perceived the Island of Barra right 
a-head; and, judging by the time we afterwards 
were in getting up to it, at about the distance off 
we had calculated by the lunar. 

I have mentioned this account of taking a lunar 
for a twofold purpose, independently of that which 
I have already named. It may be that some 
young men, just entering upon their naval career^ 
will read this journal ; and it is to stimulate them to 
renewed exertions in every branch of that career, 
scientific and nautical, that I have introduced 
it; to bid them persevere, to take every oppor- 
tunity of practising all the beautiful, yet occasioii- 
ally difficult, problems of astronomy, mathematicfif, 
navigation, &c. If they fail once, or twice, or 
thrice, try it a fourth, or a fifth, or a hundredth time, 
till it is effectually mastered. How many are there 
who say, It is impossible to do this or that, and give 



ADVANTAGES OP LUNAB OBSEEVATIONS. 375 

it up even without a trial. But that is not the way, 
my young friend, to creep aft if you have entered at 
the hawse holesy or ever to mount the highest station 
on the quarter-deck if you are in the cockpit You 
mv^t irjy and try again. Never mind if your hands 
are in the tar-bucket now, a little grease will soon 
render them clean enough to handle the sextant and 
the book ; and, by-and-by, you may be able to keep 
them clean altogether, though a working officer can't 
always even do that Brush away all hesitation, and 
in gales of windy with sea no matter how high, as 
well as in calms, in daylight or nightlight, con- 
stantly persevere, and perfect yourself in that which 
is so necessary to a good seaman. It can be done : 
do youy with an earnest will, say, "What can be 
done shall (God willing) be done by me." 

The other purpose I had in mentioning this subject 
is to point out to many merchant seamen who think 
slightingly of lunar and other scientific observations, 
their great service ; and I trust the general reader 
will excuse my having so much digressed upon it, in 
consideration of the importance such a subject must 
always have in the minds of any who, like myself^ 
have followed or still follow the sea. 

At half-past three we passed Barra, and in an- 
other hour Bona Island. It was now blowing very 
hard, with a high sea and heavy squalls. At first 

B B 4 



376 VOYAGE OF THE PEINCE ALBEHT. 

Captain Forsyth was doubtful about runniDg for the 
Pentland Frith; but as our position was so well 
determined, and the wind was so favourable, he 
finally decided upon standing right on, instead of 
going round by the Shetland Islands, which course 
was considerably out of our direct way. Towards* 
evening, thick clouds arose over the Highlands of 
Scotland, and from thence came several flashes of 
lightning, showers of rain occasionally pouring down 
upon us, the wind however continuing the same. 

Two dangers now presented themselves before 
us : the one, the Nun Rock about fifteen miles off 
Cape Wrath, and the other some rocks close in to 
the cape itself. Of the latter we had little fear, 
because, before we could be upon it, the light and 
even the bluff land about the cape would be clearly 
visible, and warn us not to approach nearer. With 
respect to the former, however, it was different. Hid 
from sight, and only known by the sea that breaks 
furiously upon it, it would be impossible to make it 
clearly out in such a night as the present. Indeed 
I must confess that, once or twice, I thought the sea 
quite high enough; for, on it came, in towering 
mountains, abruptly topping over our stem, and 
threatening to descend upon us with terrific force. 
Lifting us up, however, in a more perpendicular 
direction than I had ever before witnessed, each sea 
passed under our keel, and gave place to the next 



BANGERS OP THE "NUN BOCK.** 377 

one^ which in like manner, or perchance with less 
rage, followed close upon it. 

To avoid the danger of the Nun Rocky it was only 
necessary to keep close in with Cape Wrath ; but, 
until we could perceive the light upon it, we could 
hardly determine how to do so to a nicety. At seven 
p. M., however, it was descried, shining amidst the 
darkness around like a beautiful star of the night, 
set in the bleak heavens to guide the weary mariner 
home to his haven of rest — emblem of that more 
glorious star, which points to the burdened and sin- 
laden voyager on life's stormy seas that peaceful 
harbour where neither the rocks of error nor the 
shoals of adversity exist, to endanger the worn-out 
bark that has trustingly taken shelter there. 

Never did I look upon beacon light with such plea- 
sure as I did upon this one at Cape Wrath. Ominous 
name 1 Wrathful enough, no doubt, dost thou occa- 
sionally prove to the ill-fated bark which chances to 
get thee under her lee, instead of politely paying thee 
her obeisance at a distance. But, wrathful or not, 
the light displayed upon its high cape came doubly 
welcome on this night. It was the first token of 
regular civilisation we had seen on shore since leaving 
that part of the world four months previously ; and 
it was also the mark whereby we could guide our- 
selves through the night, free from all the dangers 
that might be said to surround us. 



378 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 

We found that we were at some distance off; 
that IS, away to the N. W. of the Ught^ and, con- 
sequently, in too close proximity to the Nun Bock. 
Accordingly the ship was hauled up more to the 
wind, and with reduced sail stood right in for the 
cape. At nine o'clock we got near enough, and 
then again bore up on our course towards the Frith. 
At two A. M. the light on Dunnet Head was seen, and 
shortly afterwards the vessel was hove-to to await 
daybreak and the flood-tide. 

The next day, Sunday, broke in all the beau- 
tiful splendour of an autumnal morning; not a 
cloud obscured the sky, and the sun rose ma* 
jestically clear and brilliant. The hills of Scot- 
land on the one side, and the Orkney Isles on the 
other, appeared delightfully refreshing. Houses, 
farms, pasturage, cattle, and presently the town of 
Thursoy with its ancient looking church, could all 
be clearly discerned through the glass, and even 
made out with the naked eye. Sail was made upon 
the ship, and at nine A.M. we slowly passed close 
under Dunnet Head, and then, with the tide, run 
swiftly through the Frith; which, with its eddies, 
its whirlpools, and rocky reefs, presents no very 
great temptation to enter in heavy weather. We 
took the inner passage by the Men of Mey, and at 
eleven a.m. rounded Duncansby Head once more. 
Here we had to haul upon a wind, and for the rest of 



JOHN o' groat's house. 379 

the day could make but little progress beyond Noss 
Head, in consequence of the breeze coming more 
against us off the land. Several pretty places were 
passed ; and among other noticeable marks along the 
coast I particularly observed John o' Groat's house, 
a mere ruin, yet a standing memorial of ages past. 

Monday SOtk, — During the night we had calms 
and light foul winds, and the next day brought 
thick weather with rain. Little or no progress was 
made until the evening, when our position being 
well in the Moray Firth, a heavy gale from the 
S. E. sprang up, and continued raging fiercely 
through the night, accompanied by a short jerking 
i^a and thick misty weather. 

It appeared that we were to try the " Prince Albert '* 
on all tacks and under all circumstances, for we had 
now to see what she could do in beating off a lee- 
shore; and, as usual, the bonnie little vessel per- 
formed her work well. Staggering under a press of 
canvass, she plunged headlong into the seas like a 
young whale sportively playing with the waters 
around her. At every dip she took, her bowsprit 
went nearly right under ; and, as she rose again, it 
fairly quivered with the rebound. All night were 
the lights about Banff and the other places in the 
neighbourhood seen flittering through the darkness, 
and at two A. m. the beacon light on Kinnaird's Head 
was discovered. 



380 VOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBEBT. 

Tuesday^ Oct 1st — When daylight broke It was 
feared, as the wind then stood, that we should not 
be able to weather Kinnaird and Rattray Heads. 
Already she staggered under the press of canvass 
upon her, more than she had ever had before in such 
a breeze, and it was with some anxiety that we all 
looked at her sticks whenever she lifted heavily to the 
sea and suddenly descended again. But they all stood 
firm, though the plunges and lurches were anything 
but easy for a vessel's masts to bear. Once I was 
in her fore-rigging, near the mast-head, looking out 
for the extreme point of land on our lee-bow, when 
she gave a tremendous pitch, and almost at the same 
moment lurched heavily to windward. I looked 
hard at the foremast as I held on to the rigging, fully 
expecting to see it snap right off somewhere ; but it 
remained firm, and save a slight oscillation, betrayed 
no movement denoting any danger of its giving way. 
It was a wonder to me, however, that it did not ; for, 
considering it being so taut^ the little hold it had 
in the body of the ship, and the poor support the 
rigging gave it, I could not well see what sustained it, 
except that it was in itself a splendid spar, as was 
also the bowsprit. 

At seven A. m. the wind veered round a point or 
two in our favour, and at eight, with a flowing sheet, 
we passed Kinnaird's Head, next Rattray Head, 
and at eleven, with a strong breeze and at a rapid 



ARRIVAL AT ABERDEEN. 381 

rate, Peterhead. At half-past one p. m. we shortened 
sail three miles to windward of Aberdeen, hoisted 
our ship's number, and displayed the Union Jack at 
the fore for a pilot. It was not high water however 
at that hour, and consequently we stood off and on 
until dusk, when we ran down close to the mouth of 
the harbour, and sending up a couple of rockets be- 
sides burning a long light as signals, we soon got a 
steamer out to us, which speedily gave us a tow rope, 
and took us across the bar ; thus arriving in Aber- 
deen without having once cast anchor since leaving 
the Orkneys on the 10th of last Junel As it was 
quite dark, few witnessed our arrival, and I was 
not sorry for it. Had we returned fortunate, it 
would have been different ; as it was, why the night 
was, I thought, better suited to our condition. 

The moment I could get a word with any one, I 
made inquiry respecting that which was uppermost in 
my mind ; but it was, as I feared, though praying to 
the contrary. Nothing fresh had been heard of those 
gallant men whom we had gone out four months 
before to seek. I could, therefore, only hope and 
trust that the exertions now making by those brave 
spirits whom we had left behind, would be speedily, 
or, at least, eventually, crowned with success. 

In a short time we were near the quay, and after 
seeing everything safe. Captain Forsyth and myself 
went ashore, and were soon partaking of the hospi- 



382 VOYAGE OP THE PEINCB ALBERT. 

talities of the same kind family who had showered 
them upon us before our departure. 

We now heard that the " North Star" had arrived 
three days before us ; and had spread the news of 
our being on our way home. I was thankful that 
I had sent a note by her ; and I now obtained news 
of those dear to me, which immediately gave a natu- 
ral relief to my mind, and allowed me that night 
to lift my heart in humble gratitude to Him who had 
so mercifully preserved me and mine, and whose 
powerful hand had upheld us all in health and safetyi 
during the whole of our voyage. 

Since our arrival much has been said and written 
concerning our voyage and the results or non-results 
of it. On this subject I have no wish to enter. But 
there is one point, touching the qualities and properties 
of the little vessel to which I had the honour and plea- 
sure of belonging, on which I beg to say a few words 
in conclusion. According to one report I have read| 
she is represented to be a slow sailer ; and by another 
account unable to do this or to effect that. Now any 
one who has taken the pains to follow me through this 
narrative must have seen that the **Prince Albert ** 
has been, from beginning to end, a most excellent 
sea-boat, a good sailer, a most handy and admirable 
craft in the ice, a fine vessel for working close in 
shore, and a pretty weatherly ship when beating off 
a lee and dangerous coast ; also that she was light 



GOOD QUALITIES OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 383 

and easily managed ; that her two large boats, the 
gutta percha especially, for service among ice, were 
excellent ; that her spars were good ; her foremast 
crew a fine and suitable set of men ; and that she 
was in herself everything one could wish, must, I 
think, be clear, if what I have stated be truth ; 
and that it is strictly true there can be no doubt. 
Hence those who would wish to decry the bonnie 
little craft do her gross injustice ; and I therefore 
take upon myself to say, that for the service she 
was intended to be engaged in there could not 
have been a better or a more suitable vessel. By a 
reference to the commencement of the book it will 
be seen what that service especially was ; and I can 
only add, that should the reader ever make a voyage 
similar to that of which I have here given an account, 
I only hope that it may be in so good and so excel- 
lent a little craft as the " Prince Albert." 

It is understood that, if Lady Franklin's funds 
admit of such an undertaking, the "Prince Albert" 
will be despatched again next spring, to renew the 
search which we unhappily failed in eflfecting. If so, 
I hope I have so far gained the good will of my 
readers, that they will join in my earnest desire that 
I may again have the happiness of finding myself on 
board of her, and be able to write a better book than 
this, at the close of a happy and successful voyage. 



384 



EXPLANATION OF TERMS 

USED IN TUB FOBEGOING NARBATIVK. 

[Extracted from Dr. Scorcsby^s excellent description of the 

Arctic Regions.] 



Iceberg. A large mass of solid ice, generally of great 
height, breadth, and thickness. 

Field-ice, or a ^eld of ice, " is a sheet of ice so exten- 
sive that its limits cannot be discerned from the masthead 
of the ship." 

Kfloe is similar to a field, but smaller, inasmuch as its 
extent can be seen. 

Sconce pieces are broken fioes of a diameter less than 
half a mile ; and, occasionally, not above a hundred, or a 
few hundred feet. 

Drift-ice consists of pieces less than floes, of various 
shapes and magnitudes. 

Brash-ice is still smaller than drift-ice, and maj be 
considered as the wreck of other kinds of ice. 

Bay-ice^ or young ice, is that which is newly formed on 
the sea, and consists of two kinds, common bay-ice and 
pancake ice ; the former occurring in smooth, extensive 
sheets, and the latter in small circular pieces, with raised 
edges. 

Sludge consists of a stratum of detached ice crystals, or 
of snow, or of the smaller fragments of brash-ice, floating 
on the surface of the sea. 



EXPLANATION OP TEBMS, 385 

A hummock is a protuberance raised upon any plane of 
ice above the common level. It is frequently produced by 
pressure, where one piece is squeezed upon another, often 
set upon its edge, and in that position cemented by the 
frost. Hummocks are likewise formed by pieces of ice 
mutually crushing each other, the wreck being heaped 
upon one or both of them. To hummocks, principally, 
the ice is indebted for its variety of fanciful shapes, and 
its picturesque appearance. They occur in great num- 
bers in heavy packs, on the edges, and occasionally in 
the middle of fields and floes, where they often attain 
the height of thirty feet and upwards. 

A calf is a portion of ice which has been depressed by 
the same means as a hummock is elevated. It is kept 
down by some larger mass, from beneath which it shows 
itself on one side. 

A tongue is a point of ice projecting nearly horizontally 
from a part that is under water. Ships have sometimes 
run aground upon tongues of ice. 

A pack is a body of drift-ice, of such magnitude that 
its extent is not discernible. A pack is open when the 
pieces of ice, though very near to each other, do not 
generally touch, or close when the pieces are in complete 
contact. 

A patch is a collection of drift or bay-ice, of a circular 
or polygonal form. In point of magnitude, a pack cor- 
responds with a field, and a patch with a floe. 

A stream is an oblong collection of drift or bay-ice, the 
pieces of which are continuous. It is called a sea-stream 
wlien it is exposed on one side to the ocean, and affords 
shelter from the sea to whatever is within it 

Open-ice, or sailing-ice, is where the pieces are so sepa- 

C C 



386 EXPLANATION OF TEBMS. 

rate as to admit of a ship sailing conveniently among 
them. 

Heavy and light ai*e terms attached to ice, distinguish- 
able of its thickness. 

Land-ice consists of drift-ice attached to the shore ; or 
drift-ice which, by being covered with mud or gravel, ap- 
pears to have recently been in contact with the shore ; or 
the flat ice resting on the land^ not having the appearance 
or elevation of icebergs. 

A bight is a bay in the outline of the ice. 

A lane or vein is a narrow channel of water in packs 
or other large collections of ice. 

A lead is an opening, large or small, through the ice, 
in which a vessel can be able to make some progress either 
by sailing, tracking, or towing. 



APPENDIX. 



The following appeared in the " Times" ajid other paperSj 
at the period the " Prince Albert " was fitting out; and, 
as it affords an explanation of the particular object of 
her voyage, I give it here at length, having referred to 
it at page 6. 

" Search for Sir John Franklik, by Regent Inlet and the Pas- 
sages CONNECTING IT WITH THE Western Arctic Sea. — The neccsslty 
of tills supplementary expedition in aid of tlie liberal measures 
adopted by the Government, for the rescue of our missing countrymen, 
is founded upon the conviction which exists in the minds of its 
originators, that Sir John Franklin would earnestly endeavour to 
follow his instructions, and would, therefore, in the first instance, after 
attaining the longitude of Cape Walker, or 98° W. in the parallel of 
about 74° N., diverge to the South and West, sparing no efforts to 
advance in that direction ; also, upon the probability that in the event 
of his meeting with insuperable impediments in this unexplored part 
of the Arctic Sea, he might, even for successive seasons of great 
severity, be unable to extricate his ships, and would at last be com- 
pelled to abandon them. In such a case, it is presumed that the 
course he would take in order to get back to .Lancaster Sound, from 
which quarter he would naturally look for assistance, would be mainly 
influenced by the means he could anticipate of supporting life during 
a long and painful passage, and during the unknown period of delay 
which might succeed it. The only resources on which he could rely 
were the provisions deposited from the wreck of the ** Fury," on the 
West shore of Regent Inlet, and the most promising track which he 
could follow, in order to attain this point, would seem to him to be the 
so-called Strait of James Ross, which, in Sir John Franklin's charts, 
was laid down as an open passage into Regent Inlet, through a region 
which he was aware was not destitute of the resources of animal life. 
" It is in especial reference to the probably exhausted and disabled 
condition of the fugitive party before attaining Fury Beach, that the 
present expedition is planned. The opinions of the Arctic officers, and 
other competent authorities, as to the importance of search in this di- 
rection, are to be found under various dates in the Parliamentary 
returns of 1 848, 1849, and 1850. At this moment, the recent intelli- 
gence from Captain Pullen and Mr. Rae tends to give it additional 
interest, by proving tfiat up to the autumn of last year, no traces of 
the missing party had been found W. of the Coppermine,— a fact 
which narrows the field of search to the region £. of that river. It 

cc 2 



388 APPENDIX. 

may be added that Captain Austin and Captain Penny take a more 
northern and a more western direction ; so that the search now 
pleaded for, unless accomplished by the means proposed, remains 
without provision. 

** It is earnestly hoped that the fiinds required for this auxiliarf 
expedition will not be withheld by those who feel a deep interest in 
the fate of their lost countrymen. The search, even if unsucceasful* 
will assist in the settlement of a painfully important question, and re- 
move all occasion for after and unavailing regret ; and no explanation 
can be wanted to prove that whatever is done must be done at once. 

** In anticipation of the generous co-operation of the public in ud 
of private means, the ** Prince Albert " ketch has been purchased, and 
is now fitting out at Aberdeen for the conveyance of two exploring 
boat parties into Regent Inlet. The vessel will be completely 
strengthened and provisioned for two years, and will be commanded 
by Captain Forsyth, R.N., who, 'having obtained leave from the 
Admiralty, has generously volunteered his gratuitous services. 

** The cost of this expedition is calculate at not less than £4,000. 
Subscriptions are received at Messrs. Drummond's, Charing-cross, and 
other London bankers." 



LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS 
TO THE ARCTIC BBAKCH EXPEDITION. 

The Right Hon. the Earl of Haddington 

P. Levesque, Esq. - - . . , 

G. Dollond, Esq., F.R.S, - 

Benjamin Smith, Esq. .... 

William Sargent, Esq. - . . . 

Willingham Franklin, Esq. - - • • 

The Rev. J. N. Simpkinson - - . . 

Charles Maclachlan, Esq. . - . . 

Sir T. D. Acland, Bart., M.P. - - - 

Rear Admiral Sir F. Beaufort, F.R.S., K.C.B. 

Sir George T. Staunton, Bart, M.P., F.R.S. 

Sir Robert H. Inglis, Bart., M.P., F.R.S. - 

Captain and Mrs. Washington - . . 

The Misses Washington .... 

John Barrow, Esq., F.R.S., Admiralty 

Ditto, Second Subscription for a Seamen^s Library 

W. IL Tinney, Esq., Q,C. - 

Lieut. Etough, R.N. 

P. Leyland, Esq. - . - . - 

John Crichton, Esq. - - - . - 

Rev. W. Crichton ..... 

Mr. Arthur Crichton .... 

Sir Francis Simpkinson, Q.C. 



£ 


«. 


dL 


50 








100 





o 


100 








100 








100 








100 








50 








50 








20 








SO 








6 








S 








20 








2 








10 


o 





6 








20 








25 








25 








10 








10 








10 








20 









LIST OF SUB8CRIBEES. 



Asbbarat M^endle, £)q., HedtDgbam Castle 

Mis. M^Jendie ... 

Servants of the family 

Mrs. Guitletnard ... 

Ret. H. P. Guillemard 

Rev. W, H. Guillemard 

laaac GuUtenurd, Esq. 

Mits Guillemard 

J. Daries Gilbert, Esq. 

Frederick Leicester, Esq, 

John FerRUS, Esq., M.P, 

Henrj Stllwood, Esq. 



Rev 



I. Wri; 



Jobn Booth, Esq. 

Re». Drumraond Rawnslejr . 

Rev. Richard Ward - 

Mr*. Ward ... 

Hudson Gurney, Esq. 

MUs Guraey, North Repps Cottage 

Rev, Henry Dcs Voeui 

Rev. T. W. Bowdler 

Misa Enkine . . . . 

W, Mathews, Esq., Q.C, 

Frederick Thielcke, Esq. 

Charles SvaisUnd. Esq., Cray ford 

Miss Herring 



Messrs. Henry 

Captain William Smith, R.N, 

Mrs. Hodgson ... 

John Gould, Esq., F.R.S, 

Frederick Djster, Esq. 

Captain R, H. King, R.N. - 

Miss King .... 

Miss F. M. B. Smith, through Caplaia King 

Commander M' Murdo, R.N. 

Commander S. Rideoul, R.N. 

Captain Cootc, R.N. 

Captain Trotter, R.N. 

Th. Tliorpc Fowke, Esq. 

Commandiir E. Vf Vansittart, 

Mrs. Gen. Vansittart 

Aug. A. Vansittart, Es. 

W. S. Burnside, Esq. 

Rev. Jolui Burasiac - 

T. G. A. Parkyns, Esq. 

Captain Fitzgerald Gambler, R.N. 

CC 3 



R.N. . 



APPENDIX. 



Admiml Mukinliv - 

Cnpliin IX-nlimm. R.X. 

Cajitain Bvcclicy, It.K.. F.R.8. 

CommiindiT Johnitune 

A<tmir>l Iluckle 

Licul. FitiRrralil. U.N. 

WillUm Gnrnier, Esi|. 

Gcargc Filliter, Y.sq. 

John C. Iirnrkelt. Kxr). 

Aleiia A. I>o>st. Esq, 

Lady St. Aubyn 

Milt Feiard 

Matthew Ellison, Etq. 

CountCB of Rotlie> - 

A widuw and her daughters' mite 

Hobert JS. K»y, Ex]. 

Commander Kay. ^'an Diemen's lai 

W. i: Kay, Es]., Ditto 

George Monckton, Esq. 

The MisHS Wadd[ngtoa 

jVIisE BeddoeA 

William Wakeford Altrec, Esq. 

Jul>u AreliuT Iloublon, Esq. 

Miss Browne ■ 

Mcssni. Gillott 

Charles Neaves, Esq., Edinburjih 

C. J. 1j Trob*, Esq., Porl Pliillip 

Rev. P. I,a Trobc - 

The Misses Oabom - 

The Hon. Lady Boyle 

Well wishers at Frome 

Alui. Wethcrall, Esq. 

Rev. Pje Smith, D.D. 

n. W. Oliver, Esq., Devonport 

A faidiful trieod and serrant - 

A. Rcade, Esq. 

James Biggs, Esq., R.N. 

Small sums collected by II. Roberlsc 

lUv. S. M. Mills, Hedingham 

Georpe Harvey, Esq., Ditto - 

Mrs. Nottidge, Uillo . 

Rev. S. Steers, Ditto - 

Tlie Misses Sle.e»s. Ditto - 

Miss atevenson. Ditto 

Mrs. A Stic, Ditto - s 

Miss Morris, Ditto 

Small contributions. Ditto - 



LIST OF SUBSCBIBEBS. 



Hiu Rogers and pupili, Ditto 

MiH Hendy, Ditto - 

Mn. Hurnti (of tliu Hon-), Hedingluiii 

Mr, Charlef. Wood. Witham 

Prederitk Thompson, E»q. 

Miss Pojiser ... 

Mr. lliompMni, Conduit Street 

Mr. J. Shaw, Southampton Row 

Mia Joyce, collected bj - - 

Friends al Clapton 

Mrs, W, S, Holmes ... 

Mi» Ijpseonib ... 

Se*. L. Bernafs and household 

Mr«. Hevitt, collected by . 

John Young, Esq. ... 

Mr. WillUm Dadge ... 

Mr. Walnn .... 

John Coniiiglon, Esq. 

A Captain's Servant ... 

Ma. G. Creed, collected by . 

Captun Chapman, R.A. 

Mrs. Hsnson .... 

Loft, Esq. 

Re». C. Tennyson Turner . 

Mn. Leacock, collected by . 

Collected at Boston - . - 

Two friends at Derby 

Miss Eliia BrackcDbury 

Major Trevelyan 

Mrs. Francis .... 

Five cbildren of the Rev. Henry M^'endie 

Rev. E. and Mrs. Acton 

Henry Wylde, Esq. - 

Sir Gardner Wiitioson, F.R.S. 

John Wright, Esq. - 

Mrs. Bosrawen Innes 

Mrs. Dlglcy - . " . 

Miss Broadley, collected by - 

Bev. W. F. Ithodes - - 

Miss Gurney, collected by 

Lady Buiton .... 

Mrs. J. H. Gumejr, collected by 

Miss Rudge, collected by 

Mrs. Cheere, collected by 

Mrs. Jobiistooe, collected by - 

Mrs. Lav (North Repps), collected by 

Mits Stevens, collected by . 

Miss Herring, collected by - 

Miss Herring (Croroer), collected by - 



392 



APPEKDIX. 









£ 9. d. 


Messrs. Mackintosh and Co, - 




m 


9 


Messrs. Stephens 




m 


10 


Collected at Harrow - 




m 


9 


Harrow Literary Institution • 




m 


5 19 


Rev. S. Pears . • - 




m 


9 


Rev. G. T. Warner - 




m 


1 I 


Rev. B. H. Drury 




m 


9 


Miss Copeland 




m 


10 


Misses Mainwaring 




- 


1 


J. W. Cunningham, Esq. 




- 


9 9 


Collected at Horncastle 




- 


11 19 


Collected by Mrs. Weld 




- 


1 9 6 


Miss Simpkinson 




• 


1 


Small contributions by ditto - 




• 


5 10 


Ditto - - - - 




- 


18 6 


Ditto at Eastbourne - 




. 


15 


Miss Emily Stone, collected by 


- 


- 


10 


Cognatus - - - 


- 


- 


10 


Mrs. Johnstone, collected by - 


- 


- 


1 7 6 


Subscriptions at Aberdeen 


- 


- 


104 6 


Boys of Marlborough College, collected by Mr. 


Lewis 




Majendie 


- 


- 


6 19 9 


Mrs Etough, collected by 


- 


- 


4 


A Lieutenant, K. N., by Admiral 


Pasco 


- 


20 


Mrs. Spranger 


. 


• 


5 


Captain William Smith, R.N., collected by 


• 


18 


Lord Somerville 


. 


. 


9 


R. Fox, Esq. 


- 


• 


10 


H. Footman, Esq. 


- 


- 


1 1 


— Trens, Esq. 


m m 


- 


10 


A Life-boat, value 50/., presented by Messrs. White, of Cowes. 


A large Gutta Percha Boat, presented by Messrs. Seaile, of Lambeth. 



OFFICIAL REPORTS ON THE ARTICLES FOUND AT 

CAPE RILEY. 

The following are the admirable reports of Sir Edward 

Parry and Sir John Richardson^ referred to at p» 319^ 

with some excellent remarks of Colonel Sabine, I have 

introduced them here on account of their very great 

value, 

« Haslar Hospital, Oct. 11. 185a 
"Sir, — On receiving your letter of the 7 th instant, and the box 
containing bones, canvass, rope, and wood recently found at Capo 



SIR EDWARD PARRY'S REPORT. 393 

Riley, upon which their Lordships desire a report from Sir John 
Richardson and myself, I considered the best way of complying with 
their Lordships' wishes would be to refer the bones and wood for 
examination to Sir John Richardson, whose skill and experience in 
such matters are greatly superior to mine, and to give my own atten- 
tion more particularly to the pieces of rope and canvass. 

** I have now the honour to enclose Sir John Richardson*s report, 
and to offer the following suggestions of my own : — 

" The only questions of any material interest are two — 

" 1. Were the articles left at Cape Riley by any of Sir John 
Franklin's people ? 

"2. If so, about what period ? 

** Independently of Sir John Franklin's expedition, there are, 
prima facie^ only three possible ways of accounting for the rope and 
canvass being found at Cape Riley : — 

" 1 . They might have been left by the parties under the command 
of Lieutenants Beechey and Hoppner, whom I sent to examine the 
coast on our first discovery of it, on the 22d of August, 181 9. 

" 2. If the rope and canvass belonged to the Fury when we lost 
her in Prince Regent's Inlet in 1 825 (having landed all her stores on 
the beach for heaving the ship down), it is possible that these articles 
may have been discovered by the Esquimaux, appropriated to their 
own use, and carried to Cape Riley in the course of their peregri- 
nations. 

** 3. The articles might have been conveyed by one of Sir James 
Ross's travelling parties detached from his ships in Port Leopold in 
the spring of the year 1849. 

In dealing with these possibilities, we may, I think, arrive at the 
following conclusions : — 

*M. It is quite certain that no encampment was formed at Cape 
Riley by Lieutenants Beechey and Hoppner ; the parties were on 
shore only a few minutes, having been recalled in consequence of a 
fair wind springing up. Nor could the piece of rope have been left 
by them, since the yellow worsted thread is pronounced by the oflS- 
cers of Chatham-yard to fix, beyond all doubt, the date of its manu- 
facture * subsequent to the year 1824, as the order assigning different 
coloured worsteds to each yard bears date April 28, of that year.' 

*< 2. The order just referred to was issued exactly three weeks be- 
fore I left England with the Hecla and Fury, on that voyage in 
which the latter vessel was lost in Prince Regent's Inlet — that is, I 
left the Nore on the 19th of May of the same year (1824), having 
quitted Deptford on the 8th. These dates coincide so nearly with 
that of the order above quoted, that I deemed it advisable to write 
to Captain Richards, Superintendent of Chatham Dockyard, to in- 
quire whether he thought it possible that the new regulation of 
inserting the yellow worsted may, as a special case, have been antici- 
pated in furnishing rope to the Hecla and Fury. 

*' Captain Richards' very clear and satisfactory reply (of which I 
enclose a copy) proves, beyond all doubt, that the rope was not sup- 
plied to the Fury ; while the circumstance of its having been made 



394 APPENDIX. 

of Hungarian hemp shows that it was not manufactured prior to 
1841. 

** 3. The third and last question is merely one of fact ; and it has, 
I understand, been ascertained from Sir James Ross that the party 
he sent out to the northward from Port Leopold did not land quite 
so far westward as Cape Kurd, so that they never approached Cape 
Riley within thirty miles. 

*' The above facts appear to me to lead to the inevitable conclusion 
that the rope was lefl at Cape Riley by Sir John Franklin's ex- 
pedition, and in all probability the canvass likewise, as that also bean 
the Queen's mark. 

*' With respect to the period at which this occurred, which can only 
be conjectured by the state and appearance of the several articles 
picked up, their Lordships will observe from Sir John Richardson's 
very interesting report that, so far as the question admits of solution, 
there is at least a strong probability of their having been left at Cape 
Riley about the year 1845. 

" I would, therefore, submit to their Lordships what appears to me 
the most probable conclusion — namely, that Sir John Franklin's 
ships having reached this neighbourhood on their way out in 1 845, 
and being stopped there for a time by the state of the ice (as I was, 
and as we know the present searching expeditions have been), a 
couple of boats may have been detached from each ship to land at 
Cape Riley to make the usual observations, collect specimens, and 
examine the coast — a common occurrence in all such expeditions. If 
detained for a night, each boat's crew may have pitched its own tent, and 
one for the officers, making five in all. The only circumstance which 
I cannot explain (supposing the encampment to have been formed by 
Sir John Franklin's people) is, the large size of their tents, which 
Mr. Snow has just described to us as 12 feet in diameter and upwards,* 
and which is certainly very large for tents generally used on such 
occasions. This may, in part, perhaps be explained by the stones 
being thrown from the centre, and the circle thus considerably en- 
larged when striking the tents. 

" At the commencement of their enterprise (which, looking to former 
discoveries, the entrance to Wellington Inlet may fairly be considered), 
a party from the Erebus and Terror might not think it of any im- 
portance to leave a notice of their visit, though it is much to be 
wished that they had ; and I should hope that at some more advanced 
position Captain Ommanney and the other officers will have succeeded 
in discovering some such notice, affording positive information of the 
missing ships, and of the route they are likely to have pursued. 

<* On the other hand I feel confident, that 'if the expedition, or any 
portion of the people, had landed at Cape Riley at a more advanced 
period, when success began to be doubtful, and especially if in distress, 
or with a view to effect their escape from the ice, some distinct notice 
of the facts would have been laft at a point so prominent and so likely 
to be visited as Cape Riley. I may add that under such circumstances 

* See note, page 318. 



SIR JOHN Richardson's report. 395 

it is very highly improbable that provisions so heavy and bulky as 
salt beef and pork would have formed a part of their supply ; and 
mutton would, of course, have been wholly out of the question. 

" We have received from Commander Forsyth and Mr. Snow 
(who, according to their Lordships* directions, arrived here this 
morning) all the information they possess relating to our present 
inquiry. 

" The box containing the several articles found at Cape Riley will 
be returned to your address by railway this evening. 

** I have the honour to be. Sir, 

" Your most obedient servant, 

" William Edward Parrt, 
« Captain, R. N.** 
*' To the Secretary to the Admiralty, &c." 



** Report on certain Substances found on Cape Rilbv, in August 

LAST, AND BROUGHT TO ENGLAND BT CaPTAIN FoRSYTH, OP THE 

Prince Albert, bt John Richardson, Medical Inspector of 
Haslar Hospital. 

" Royal Hospital, Haslar, 1 0th October, 1850. 

" Sir, — In compliance with the instructions conveyed by the 
memorandum of the Secretary of the Admiralty, of the 7th irist., 
addressed to you, I proceed to report on the following articles, 
stated to have been picked up on Cape Riley, by Mr. Snow, of the 
Prince Albert. 

" No. 1. A piece of bone four and a half inches long, being the 
head and part of the shafl of the fourth rib of the left side of an ox. 
This has been chopped from the other end by the blow of an axe. 

** No. 2. Six inches and a half of the upper end of the seventh rib 
of the right side of an ox. The lower end of the rib has been sawed 
off, and the head broken off. A large part of the surface of this bone 
is corroded, as if from the action of salt. This is the rib of a larger 
animal than that to which No. 1. belonged, and the head has been 
broken off recently — that is, subsequently to the alterations of the 
rest of the surface by exposure, &c. 

" No. 3. Part of the seventh dorsal vertebra of an ox, being the 
piece that articulates with the head of the rib. 

*' No. 4. is the lower articular process of the left shoulder-bone of 
a small hog. 

" No. 5. is the upper end of the right thigh-bone of a sheep, pro- 
bably of the Orkney, or Highland breed, and rather old. The bone 
is of a hard, compact texture, which excited a suspicion in my mind 
of its being part of the thigh-bone of a small northern reindeer ; but 
having no corresponding bone of that animal for comparison, this is 
a mere suspicion, and it corresponds closely with the bone of a small 
shei'p, to which, therefore, I am inclined to refer it It has been 
notched by the corner of a hatchet, or other sharp cutting instrument. 



396 APPENDIX, 

" These five pieces of bone are all that bear on the present inquiry. 
They have lost little of their original weight ; and indurated animal 
matter, showing large nucleated and common fat globules under the 
microscope, is contained in the cancellated structure of Nos. 1. and 2. 
There is a quantity of animal &t in the bottom of the shafl of No. 5. 
A few granular and simple fat cells, analogous to those exisdng in 
marrow, can still be perceived in this fat when examined with the 
microscope ; but probably, from exposure to cold, this marrow, whidi 
I conclude it to be, has undergone considerable deterioration. 

" All the five bones have been much worn or rounded by attrition ; 
most probably by rolling among gravel in a water-course, or on the 
beach within the wash of the sea. The sharp edges of the sawn and 
notched pieces are smoothed off, and the softer ends of the bones 
rubbed down. The head of rib No. 2. alone has been broken since 
the rest of the bone was exposed to friction. Taking the climate into 
consideration, and particularly the shortness of each season to which 
the bones can have been exposed to atmospherical influences, or to the 
action of water, they being, of course, covered with snow for ten 
months in each year, I should say that they cannot have been reduced 
to their present state in less than four or five years since the flesh was 
removed from them ; and that they are not much older than that 
time. A small dipterous insect had taken shelter in one of the celb 
of No. 2., and died there. 

" The other bones — viz.. No. 6., a portion of the right shin-bone 
of a young walrus ; No. 7., the lumbar vertebra of a reindeer ; No. 8., 
the left shoulder-bone of a young seal ; No. 9., a portion of ttie rib of 
a walrus — are of very old date, have lost much of their animal 
matter, are more or less disintegrated, are partially clothed with 
ancient lichens, and have been most probably exposed to the weather 
for a half or a whole century, or even longer. They appear to have 
been imbedded in soil partially or wholly, or lying amongst moist 
crrass, and not on clean gravel, where I conclude, from their con- 
dition, the others were found. 

" None of the bones bear the mark of a tooth, as they would 
unquestionably have done had the place been visited by Esquimaux 
with dogs since they were deposited there. 

" The other articles picked up at the same place, and sent to be 
reported on, are — 

" No. 10. A piece of 1 J-inch rope, now measuring 44 inches in 
length, and having an eye spliced at one end, but which is said to 
have been when found a foot longer, with an eye at both ends. It is 
bleached on the surface, but is fresh within, so that in some places 
there remains enough of tar to soil the finger. This rope has been 
fully reported upon from Chatham, and the date of its manufiicture 
fixed as subsequent to 1841. 

" No. 11. A piece of old canvass, with Queen's mark, seemingly 
part of a boat*s swab, the length corresponding, and the nail-hole to 
which it has been fastened to the handle remaining. 

** No. 1 2. A chip of drifl-timber, the surface of a knot, which has 



SIR JOHN RICHARDSON'S REPORT. 397 

been exposed for very many years to the action of the atmosphere, so 
as to break down greatly the connexions of its woody fibres. Subse* 
quent to this exposure, and recently, it has been cut from the piece of 
drift-timber to which it belonged by an axe, or other sharp cutting in* 
strument — not a stone hatchet. It has all the external character of 
wood grown in an Arctic climate. On being examined under the mi- 
croscope, its structure was found to differ essentially from that of a coni- 
ferous tree, or of any other tree that grows on the banks of the Ame- 
rican rivers flowing into the Arctic Sea — from pines and firs in the 
absence of glandular discs, and from the others in the size and form of 
the ducts and their markings. It corresponds most closely with the 
wood of the ash ; and from the amount of intra-cellular deposit in the 
specimen, it is inferred to have belonged to a tree of considerable age. 
It has most probably drifted from the Asiatic coast, and its being 
found at Cape Riley bears on the currents and passages of the Arctic 
Sea. The mark of the axe which it bears indicates the visit of 
Europeans to the spot where it was found, as it does not appear to 
have been long exposed since the cut was made — that is, not very 
many years. 

*< As the recent bones have all been rolled and worn down, there is 
a possibility of their having been cast ashore by the ice. Had they 
been left at the time of Captain Beechey's visit to the same place, on 
the 22nd of August, 1819, I do not think that the oily matter in their 
cavities would have been found so fresh. But we have no certain ob- 
servations on the effects of so rigorous a climate in preserving animal 
matter ; and it is to be observed, that while the interval between the 
thawing and freezing of the bones again does not exceed six weeks in 
each year, thirty-one years* exposure would be equivalent to only two 
or three years in the temperate climate of England. 

'* The beef-bones, almost without doubt, belong to the ordinary 
pieces of salt-beef supplied to the navy, as their length, and the way 
in which they have been chopped and sawed, correspond closely with 
bones from a beef-cask which I examined at Clarence-yard. No. 4. 
I am inclined, with as little doubt, to consider as the remains of a 
piece of pork. No. 5. may be the relic of an officer's dinner on mut- 
ton. The whole evidence to be derived from their condition points 
to their deposit subsequent to Captain Beechey's visit, and prior to 
Sir James Ross's wintering at Cape Leopold, and therefore indicates 
that they were left by parties from Sir John Franklin's ships in the 
first year of his voyage, when the ships probably were detained, 
waiting for an opening in the ice, and officers had landed from 
them to make observations. 

" Since the above report was drawn up, I have had the advantage of 
an interview with Captain Forsyth and Mr. Snow, in the presence of 
Sir Edward Parry, and have not found it necessary to modify the 
conclusions I had previously come to. 

" From Mr. Snow I learnt that the crescentic spit or low point 
which runs out from the bluff" headland of Cape Riley has a convex 
surface, rising in the middle and towards the fort of the cliff*, twelve 



398 APPENDIX. 

or fourteen feet above the water. The cliff formed in that part of the 
earth, mixed with fragments of the'adjacent and underlying limestone, 
is ascended by successive terraces, and on tlie first, six feet above the 
spit, or twenty feet above the water, the piece of rope was found. Tt 
had escaped the notice of Captain Ommanney, who on the preceding 
day collected and carried away the evidences that he found of the 
visit of Sir John Franklin's people, for such is the tenor of the note 
which he left. 

" The bones were picked up by the seamen of Mr. Snow*s boat, 
around certain rings of stones on the spit, while that gentleman was 
busy transcribing Captain Ommanney*s note of the 24th, with Lieu- 
tenant De Haven's of the 25th, and adding to the originals a notice of 
bis own visit. Captain Forsyth, on interrogating the seamen, learnt 
that they left behind many birds* bones, and brought away only the 
beef bones and such as looked most like the relics of ships' provisions. 

" The tide rises there from three to four feet, and Captain Beechey 
found the rocks worn smooth and hollowed out by the action of the 
waves and ice to the height of thirteen feet. The influences of these 
agents, with the effects of the strong rills emanating from melting 
snow, and pouring down the sides of the cliff, will account fiilly for 
the bones having been so rolled since they were left. 

" The rings of stones, five in number, vary, Mr. Snow says, from 
twelve feet in diameter to twice as much.* They did not strike his eye 
on landing, but his attention was called to them by the men, wlio a£io 
observed two or three stones placed so as to rest a kettle on. Captain 
Beechey says that had circular stones been on the spit when he landed, 
he would have noticed them. Their subsequent formation points to 
the visit of Sir John Franklin's party. On the other hand, if that 
party made fires either of coal or wood, the remains of the fires, if 
sought for, would certainly be found. The Esquimaux use oil 
lamps, which produce much smoke, for cooking, and place stones fbr 
the support of their stone kettles, so that unless the encampments bad 
been examined with reference to these points, and to the indications 
given by the surfaces of the stones as to whether they had been turned 
within a few years, no very certain deductions can be made, especiallj 
as the rings were not so conspicuous as to strike the eye at once. But 
there is nothing to invalidate the opinion formed on other grounds of 
the spot affording traces of the discovery ships. 

" In the examination of the wood and animal matters, I hare 
availed myself of the experience of my assistant. Dr. Clark, in the use 
of the microscope, and beg to inclose a note of some of his obserya- 
tions. 

** I have the honour to be, Sir, 

** Your most obedient servant, 

*< JOHV RlCHAEDSOV. 



(( 



Captain Superintendent Sir W. E. Parry, R. N." 

* See note, page 318. 



COLONEL Sabine's remabks. 399 



** Obseevations by Colonel Sabine. 

" Perhaps it may throw some light on the fact of there being five 
tents that the magnetical instruments supplied to Sir John Franklin's 
expedition would require more tents than any previous or any sub- 
sequent expedition. 

" There were three magnetical instruments, each of which would 
require a separate tent, and these three tents would only be entered 
at stated periods for observation. 

" Besides these three, there would be required a fourth tent for 
miscellaneous observations, and a fifth for the protection of the ob- 
servers. 

" 1 was, therefore, always prepared to expect that whenever the 
traces of a winter station of the Erebus and Terror should be found 
there would be some appearance discovered of five tents in the loca- 
lity where the instruments of the Erebus should be placed, and five 
for the Terror. 

'* I think it probable that the two ships would establish their ob- 
servatories at some little distance apart from each other, because it 
would contribute to convey a character of independence to each. I 
think it far more probable that the traces which have been discovered 
are those of a winter station, than of a station occupied for a few 
days during the season of navigation, from the quantity of the re- 
mains of provisions which I understand to have been found, and 
which are much more than are likely to have been consumed by an 
observing party during the very short time that the instruments 
would have been put up at a temporary station. It is quite possible, 
however, to suppose that the ships may have been stopped during the 
season of navigation, and without any immediate prospect of getting 
on, about the time of the monthly term days*, and the tents may 
have been established and the instruments landed for observation on 
the term day — that is to say, they may have all been in order for 
commencing about twelve hours before, and the observations con- 
tinued for twenty -four hours. But at the close of the term day they 
would without doubt have been embarked with all convenient de- 
spatch." 



* " A term day is one day in the month on which it was pre-ar- 
ranged that simultaneous magnetic observations should be made in 
all parts of the world ; these days were known to Sir John Franklin, 
and they were the only days on which during the season of naviga- 
tion those magnetic instruments requiring the tents above alluded to 
would be employed." 



400 



APPENDIX. 



METEOROLOGICAL 

KEPT ON BOARD THE PBINCE ALBERT TiTntTwa 



Date. 

June. 



Latitude. 



D. R. 



Obs. 



Longitude. 



D. R. 



I O I II O t II 

W. 5! Aberdeen - 

Th. 6;Buchanes8 - 

Fr. 7;Duncansby Head 

Sat. 8 Long Hope - 

Sun. 9 Pentland Firth - 



M. 

Tu. 

W. 

Th. 

Fr. 

Sat 



10 
11 



59 



1260 
1359 
1459 
15 59 



Sun. 16'58 



M. 

Tu. 

W. 

Th. 
Fr. 

Sat 



17 59 



59 
60 



18 
19 

20!60 
2160 
22*59 
Sun.23!58 
M. 24'57 
25 58 
2659 



27 

28 



Tu. 
W. 

Th. 
Fr. 

Sat. 
Sun. 30 

July. 
M. 
Tu. 
W. 
Th. 
Fr. 
Sat. 



59 
59 



29 58 
58 

1,58 
2'58 



8 
4 



59 
59 



5,60 
6 61 



33 
04 
42 
22 
00 
54 
05 
44 
20 
48 
14 
48 
40 
56 
40 
34 
34 
25 
51 
23 

36 
44 
03 
18 
35 
19 



- 159 
0059 
00 60 
0059 
00 59 
00 58 
00'58 
O0I59 
0059 

ooleo 

00-60 
0060 
0059 
00 58 
00 - 



00 
00 
00 
00! 
00' 
00 



01 
47 
12 
19 
00 
49 
48 
06 
44 
23 
.'JO 
07 
57 
31 



34 
00 
00 



7 
9 



00; 1 3 
0018 
00'20 
00!24 
00!27 
00;29 
00,30 
0030 
0032 
0035 
00 35 
. |34 



36 
16 
14 
53 
43 



Chron. 



00 
00! 



4 

7 
9 



00 13 



0018 

oo;2o 

00 00'23 
50 0027 
00 29 
00 30 
00'30 
00'31 
00'35 
00 
00 



58 42 0034 

- - 36 

59 51 00'36 

- - '38 

- - |41 
25 0042 



58 



00 - 
00 58 
00; - 
00 - 
00 60 
00 61 



42 
37 00 45 
47 
48 
24 00 50 
02 00 51 



21 
38 
39 
32 
55 
26 
54 
36 
29 
24 
37 
07 
19 

08 
49 
29 
20 
31 
43 



00 34 
00 36 

00 36 

001 - 
00! - 
00 40 



10 00 

05 30 

06 00 
42 00 
25 00 

53 00 
44 00 
16 00 
49 00 
34 00 
20 00 
58 00 
40 00 

54 00 
31 00 
14 00 
04 00 



57 00 



Prerailiag Winds. 



Southerly 

S. S. Easterly 

S. E. ; N. E. to Westerly 

W.N.W. ; hard gale 

W. ; S.W. ; moderate 

Sth. Westerly; moderate 

Westerly ; strong 

Sth. Wstly ; NtlSy ; light 

N.N.E. ; strong 

E.N.E. ; East; N.E. ; modente 

East ; S.E. ; N.E. ; light 

E.N.E. ; S.E. ; Sooth ; light 

Wstly. ; strong and squaUy 

S. W. ; West ; hard gale 

West ; very heavy gale 

West; S.E.;Ea8t;li^ht 

N.E. ; calm ; Soath ; light 

West ; N. W. ; strong 

W.N.W. ; very strong 

W.N.W. ; heavy gale ; hove to 

W.N.W. ; moderate 

Westerly ; heavy gale 

N. W. ; N. } light ; calm 

S.W. ; N.W. ; light 

S. Estly ; North ; modente 

N.E. ; N.W. ; strong 

00 42 20 00 Westerly ; moderate 

00 45 13 00' E.N.E. ; N. ; N.E. ; fresh* 

00'47 18 OOl Westerly ; light 

0048 15 00; S.S.E.; light 

00 50 29 00: Easterly; moderate 

00 52 13 00! S. ; W. ; N.W. ; light ; strong 



* Tuesday, 2nd July. Passed the first iceberg at 2 a.h. 



METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL. 



401 



RNA.L. 

fAGE IN THE ARCTIC SEAS, 1850. 



Preraillng Weather. 



Thermometer at 8 p.m. 



airs and mild 

winds, clear and mild 

wind, thick} and rain 
ny, with rain 
I ; hazy ; rain 
, and small rain 
; clear and fine 
, and small rain 
[y ; fine ; rain 

and fine 
o. 

and fine ; then rain 
t, with heavy rain 
ly, rain, snow, sleet 

storms [hove to 

ery ; then clear 

; then cloudy 
ly and rain 

ny, and showers of sleet 
ny, and showers of rain 

; then cloudy 

ly [hove to 

• weather 
y, with calms 
c fog and rain 
ly ; then clear 

ly ; rain 

; heavy rain ; clear 
; rain 

ly 

ery 



Cabin. 



59 
60 
63 
57 
54 
58 
59 
56 
55 
50 
52 
55 
50 
50 
50 
52 
50 
54 
53 
50 
48 

53 
52 
52 
51 
49 
52 



Deck. 



57 

61 

55 

54 

54 

54* 

54 

51 

47 

51 

50 

49 

46 

47 

46 

45 

53 

46 

45 

46 

47 
45 
44 
47 
41 
43 



Water. 



Barometer. 



53 

51 
47 
47 
51 
51 
50 
47 
45 
47 
49 
47 
47 
46 
46 
45 
48 
45 
45 
46 

46 
44 
43 
44 
41 
43 



8 A.M. 



29 92 
29-55 
29-23 
29-55 
29-79 
29-78 
29-96 
29-78 
29-70 
29-60 
29-69 
29 65 
29-49 
29 80 
29-74 
30-15 
29-95 
29-96 
29-94 
29-40 
29-77 

29-76 
29-66 
29-77 
29 62 
29-66 
29-70 



8 P.M. 



29-76 
29-59 
29-19 
29-70 
29-90 
29-85 
29-89 
29-62 
29-59 
29-70 
29 60 
29-40 
29-78 
29-90 
30-05 
30-15 
29-98 
30-10 
29-77 
29-27 
29-87 

29-66 
29-84 
29-77 
29-66 
29-60 
29-66 



Aneroid 
Noon. 



29-90 
29 -5S 
29-23 
29-63 
29-90 
29-84 
30-04 
29-60 
2j*-70 
29-70 
29-60 
29-63 
29*70 
29-85 
29*92 
30-20 
30-00 
3010 
30-03 
29-70 
29-93 

29-80 
29-92 
29-82 
29-70 
29-70 
29-72 



D D 





LUItuDi!. 




LovgltDdf. 






July.' 












D, B. 1 Ob.. 


D. H. ] Chron. 


S.W. ; fresh 




Son. 7I63 12 60! °. ' -" 


53 


05 00! . . 




M. 8!64 42 00 64 36 00 


S3 


18 O0S3 30 00 


S.S.W. i N.N.E. i Ught 




To. 9|65 17 0065 13 00 


52 


23 001 . - 


N. Estly. ; wrong 




W. 10;65 45 OOleS 41 00 


53 


37 00 


53 50 00 


aw. J »trong 




Th. 1168 14 00 - - 


55 


17 00 




S.W. ; fresh ; gale 




Fr. 1268 48 00 - - 




33 00 




W.S.W. ; hard gale [hove to. 




Sat 13;69 24 0070 11 00 








S.W. ; W. ; K.; light 




Sun. 14:70 47 00! - - 


55 


28 00 




S.W.iDght 




M. 15 


- - !-I 34 OO.Off Black Hook 


Sontbi West; light 




Tu. 10 


- - i-l 59 00 Off Dark Head 


N. i N.E. ; E. i light, &c. 




W. 17 


Sanderson's Hope 








N.E. 1 moderate 




Th. 18 


Berry Island 








East 1 S.W. ; light 




Fr. 19 


73 44 OOl - - 


57 


30 00 




S.W. 1 light 




Sau 20 


74 30 00 74 32 00 
F'ast to a flo« of ice 








S.E. -, light 




Sun. 21 








S.E. i 8. , N.E. i do. 




M. aa 


Working among ice 








Northerly ; do. 




Tn.a3 




74 57 00 






59 9 00 


N.E. ; do. 




W. 24 




75 8 00 






59 33 4S 


N.E. 1 N.W. i do. 




Tb. 25 




75 11 00 








NthlTi light and oOm 




Ft. 26 




75 12 00 








N. Estly i do. do. 




Sat 27 










60 12 00 


Calm ; Nthly ; light 

N.E. ( S.W. ; ligb i itrong 




SQn.28 














M. 29 




7.^ IB 00 






60 30 00 


S.W. ; strong 




Tu. 30 




75 18 00 






60 32 00 






W. 31 




75 20 00 








N. ( N.W. ; light 




Beset in the ice 






- - 


Calm 




Fr. 2 




75 17 38 






60 !9 30 


Do. 




Sat 3 




. . 








Southerly slight 




Suu. 4 




73 IS 18 








Calm 




M. 5 




75 19 00 






60 20 00 


Do. 




To. 6 




75 31 00 






59 16 00 


N.E. ; S.E. ; light 




W. 7 




75 37 00 






60 57 00 


S.E.; light; calm 




Th. 8 




75 37 00 






60 67 00 


Do. do. 




Fr. 9 












South and S.E1 do. 




Sat 10 




75 46 00 








8.S.W. ; light 




Sun. 11 












S.W. ( S.F. i do. 




M. 12 




75 50 00 






62 53 15 


Southerly; Estly.; do. 




Tn. 13 Off Cape York 






- - 


Calm and ligkt aira 




W. 14 - - 1 - . 






- - 


Nthly iS. Estly slight 

N.E. ; calm ; Wesli calm, fte. 




Th. 1.1 




76 14 00 






70 49 30 





METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL. 



40o 







Thermometer at 8 p m. 


Barometer. 




Freyailing Weather. 












Cabhi. 


Deck. 


Water. 


8 A.M 


8P.H. 


Aneroid 
Noon. 






o 


o 













Hazy, and showers of rain 


48 


40 


40 


29-76 


29-80 


29-90 




Fine clear weather 


.52 


41 


40 


29-70 


29-60 


29-65 




Cloudy and foggy 


41 


37 


36 


29-56 


29-66 


29-62 




Thick ; hazy ; fog 


45 


39 


39 


29-62 


29-56 


29-64 




Rain ; snow ; gleet 


44 


39 


38 


29 20 


28 60 


29-04 




Thick ; heavy snow 


39 


35 


35 


28-80 


29-46 


29-34 




Hazy ; then clear 


48 


40 


36 


29-57 


29-62 


29-60 




Thick and foggy 


50 


38 


37 


29-57 


29-77 


29-70 




Clear and fine 


52 


40 


36 


29-77 


29 85 


29-92 




Do. 


50 


39 


36 


29-83 


29-59 


29 '76 




Do. 


- 


m 


. 


29-50 


- - 


29-53 




Thick, with heavy rain 


48 


38 


34 


29-72 


29-88 


29-83 




Fog ; hazy 


46 


37 


35 


29-98 


30 05 


30-10 




Fog ; clear 


48 


36 


32 


30-10 


80-18 


30-15 




Thick, with rain 


- 


- 


- 


30-08 


- - 


30-09 




T'hick fog 


44 


31 


31 


29-88 


29-87 


29-90 




Clear 


45 


35 


32 


29 84 


29-89 


29-90 




Do. 


49 


30 


31 


29-80 


29-70 


29-73 




Do. and fine 


58 


32 


31 


29-85 


29-96 


29-96 




Do. do. 


54 


33 


31 


29-97 


29-86 


29-94 




Do. do. 


55 


33 


31 


29-78 


29 65 


29-77 




Do. ; threatening 


49 


34 


31 


29-42 


29-14 


29*25 




Hazy and dull 


48 


35 


30 


-29 25 


29-40 


29-35 




Thick and foggy 


48 


34 


31 


29-54 


29-60 


29-62 




Clear and fine 


48 


34 


31 


29-60 


29-60 


29-60 




Foggy 


48 


34 


31 


29-70 


29-85 


29-80 




Clear 


46 


r33l 
L29 J 


31 


29-83 


29-70 


29-78 




Do. and fos^ 


48 


33 


31 


29 80 


29 84 


29-85 




^7 

Do. and fine 


45 


33 


31 


29-84 


29-80 


29*90 




Do. do. 


45 


27 


30 


29-80 


29 80 


29-92 




Do. do. 


45 


33 


31 


29-80 


29-82 


29-87 




Do. do. 


49 


28 


31 


29-86 


29-84 


29-86 




Do. do. 


47 


32 


31 


29-90 


29-87 


29-90 




Do. do. 


47 


31 


35 


29-77 


29 77 


29-80 




Thick fog 


47 


34 


35 


29-82 


29-95 


29-90 




Do. do. 


45 


33 


32 


29-96 


29-96 


30-00 




Foggy ; clear 


47 


31 


34 


29-87 


30 00 


29-96 




Clear and fine 


45 


32 


34 


30-09 


30-10 


30-17 




Do. do. 


44 


33 


33 


29-95 


29-90 


3016 




Do. do. 


44 


31 


34 


30 00 


3010 


30 22 



DD 2 



APPENDIX. 



AuguVt 


I.alllua?. 


Longitude. 










Fmiilllai Wlnda. 






D. R. on.. 


D. B. Chron. 






Fr. 16 


"' ' ■" 75 32 60 


°- ' -"174 25 00 


Calm ; E«tlj ; S.E. ; light 




S&t IT 


74 23 00: - - 


76 10 00, - - 


&E.iS.8.W.iW.S.W.i light 




Sun. 18 


73 89 00 - - 


79 49 00; - - 


S.R,do. " 




M. 19 


Off Caps Bay 






Cairn ; Eatly ; blowIoK hard 




Tn. 20 


74 08 001 - - 


84 22 00 




Eetly ; heavy gale 




W. 21 


Off Port Leopold 






N.Estly; and calm 
Calm, light airs 




Th. 22 


Off FU17 Beach 








Fr. 23 




73 33 00 






Southerly ; light 




Sttt. 2-1 




74 32 00 




CHard 


N. Westly ; moderate 




SuD.2o 




74 47 00 


I ' C. Spen- 


Do. do. 




M. 26 


73 50 00 


_ 


88 00 00 Near C 
York 


Northerly! light aira 




Tu. 27 


74 02 00 - - 


96 34 00 - - 


Easterly ; yery strong 




W. 29 


- - ,74 01 00 


- - C. Cran- 


Northerly ; moderate 






1 




ford 






Th. 89 


Oef Cape Liverpool 






N. Westly ; ft^Bh, light 




Fr. 30 


Off Piisses.sion Bay 




76 43 15 


Light ain and calma 




Sot. 31 
Sept, 
Sun. 1 


C Waller Balhural: 






SootberlyiUght; moderate 




C. Graham Jloore 






S.Ea«lr; light aim 




M. 2 


Working out of 
Pond's Bay 










Til. 3 


72 35 001 - - 


74 45 00 




Do. do. 




W. 4 


72 20 00 - - 


73 57 00 




Do. do. 




■111. 6 


71 36 00 - - 


72 49 00 




Do. do. 






63 20 00 




Dn. do. 




Sal. 7I7I 59 00' - - fi7 20 00| - - 






SuD. 8169 39 0070 11 00G3 39 00, - - 


N.Estly; fresh 




.M. 967 42 00 - - ^55 42 00; - - 


N.E. = strong 




Tu. 10 64 IS O0!b-1 40 00 54 7 00 53 40 00' N.E. by E. Tfreah 

W. 11 61 57 00;61 58 00 52 40 00 - - N.N.W. j N.R , modenM 






Th. 12 59 38 00,59 36 00^9 43 0049 25 00 N.E. ; freBh 




Fr. 1358 40 00 58 31 0047 01 0047 14 Oo' N.E. ; S E. ) S. ; light; frcdl 




Sat 14 i37 24 00, - - 146 26 00 . - ; S.E. by E. , ttrong 




Snn.15'57 28 OOJ - - 46 16 00, - - ' South Eatly j light 




M. 16:57 23 00 - - 46 03 00' - - ; Eslly: N.E. ; light; freih 




To. 17|fl7 52 O0I57 18 0041 37 0041 17 00 N.N.E. ; fresh 








Th. 19 58 00 0057 54 0031 16 0031 26 OO N. ; N.N.E. ; frrah 




Fr. 20 58 03 00 - - '26 46 00 26 43 00 North ; fmh 




Sot SI 


58 03 00 


58 06 00 


21 42 00 


21 49 00 


N.;N.W.jH.E.ift«h 





BIETEOBOLOGICAI. JOUBKAL. 



405 



• 




Thermometer at 8 p.m. 


Barometer. 




Prevailing Weather. 












Cabin. 


Deck. 


Water. 


8 A.M. 8 P.M. 


Aneroid 
Noon 




Clear and fine 


o 
44 


o 
32 


o 
35 


30-10 , 3008 


30-20 




I>o. ; foggy 


44 


32 


35 


30-05 


30-05 


30-17 




Thick fog ; oflf C. Liverpool 


45 


33 


34 


30 00 


30 00 


30-11 




Clear ; then thick 


43 


34 


32 


30-00 


29-87 


29-98 




'I'hick, with sleet 


43 


32 


30 


29-60 


29-60 


29-70 


■ 


Uazy ; and clear 


40 


32 


31 


29-60 


29-60 


29-72 




Fogiry, and thick 


- 




- 


29-75 


- • 


29-93 




Thick ; foggy 


- 


" 


- 


29 95 


- - 


- - 




Clear and fine 


40 


33 


33 


29-98 


29-97 


30-02 




Do., with snow showers 


41 


31 


33 


29-92 


29-90 


30 01 




Fogs ; snowing hard 


43 


35 


33 


29-88 


29-82 


29-90 




Thick, with sleet and snow 


43 


34 


33 


29-74 


29-70 


29-75 




Thick ; clear 


43 


37 


37 


29-65 


29-49 


29-61 




Uazy ; clear 


44 


35 


34 


29-54 


29-72 


29-70 




Clear and fine 


50 


35 


34 


29-77 


29-77 


29-80 




Clear ; thick ; foggy 


48 


35 


34 


29-86 


29 86 


29-92 




Very foggy and thick 


45 


34 


35 


29-84 


29-80 


29-88 




Foggy ; more clear 


49 


35 


34 


29 83 


29-87 


29-90 




Do. do. 


47 


35 


37 


29-97 


30-07 


30-10 




Moderately clear 


50 


36 


37 


30 07 


3013 


30-20 




Thick and foggy 


46 


36 


36 


30-21 


30-21 


30-25 




Do. do., and gloomy 


45 


34 


34 


30-21 


30-30 


30 28 




Do., and gloomy 


44 


33 


33 


3022 


30-20 


30-30 




Do. do. 


50 


34 


36 


30-10 


30-08 


30-10 




Cloudy and clear 


44 


37 


37 


29 98 


29-90 


30-05 




Clear and fine 


47 


37 


37 


29-77 


29-80 


29-85 




Clear ; cloudy 


50 


41 


41 


29-86 


29-90 


29 95 




Do. do. 


55 


46 


45 


29-98 


29-90 


30-00 




Rain, and cloudy 


56 


47 


47 


29-73 


29-59 


29-75 




Cloudy and rain 


56 


47 


47 


29-60 


29-59 


29-60 


• 


Thick and rain 


58 


50 


46 


29-63 


29-67 


29-70 




Foggy ; cloudy 


54 


46 


45 


29-70 


29-74 


29-82 




Cloudy ; rain ; clear 


62 


46 


47 


29-79 


29-85 


29-90 




Clear, cloudy, lightning, rain 


60 


46 


48 


29-60 


29-48 


29-56 




Cloudy, with squalls ; rain 


62 


48 


48 


29-59 


29-70 


29-70 




Cloudy, and with showers 


63 


51 


51 


29-70 


29-65 


29-75 




Cloudy ; clear 


66 


51 


50 


29-73 


29-75 


29-80 



DP 3 



406 



APPENDIX. 



Date. 
Sept. 



Latitude. 



D. R. 



Sun. 22 



23 
24 
25 
26 



M. 

Tu. 

W. 

Th. 
Fr. 27; 
Sat. 28 
Sun. 29; 
M. 30 



o 
58 

58 

59 

60 

59 

59 

59 



16 
26 
13 
19 
54 
29 
06 



Obs. 



Longitude. 



D. R. 



Cliron. 



// o 

00,58 
0058 
0059 
00 60 
00 - 



00 



12 
30 
18 
32 



// I o 

00 17 
00,16 
0012 
00 9 
9 



59 



54 
28 
44 
51 
46 
6 
47 



// o 

0018 



00 
00 
00 
00 
00 
00 



16 

12 

9 



04 00 
26 00 
35 00 
30 00 



10 

7 



15 
14 



00 
00 



11 0010 
00'59 10 00 6 
Between Duncansby Head & Ross Head 
At the entrance of the Moray Firth 



Prevailing Winds. 



N. Estly ; light 
Calm ; South ; moderate 
S. by K ; moderate 
S.S.E. ; do. ; strong 
S.S.E. ; strong 
S.E. ; heavy gale 
S.S.E. ; West ; strong 
Westerly ; strong ; fresh 
Calm ; and Estly ; Btrong 



METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL. 



407 



Prevailing Weather. 



Clear and fine 
Clear and fine 
Cloudy and fine 
Clear ; cloudy ; squalls 
Heavy gales and cloudy 
Hove to ; heavy rain 
Rain and clear ; bare poles 
Cloudy ; fine, clear 
Cloudy ; heavy rain 



Tliermometer at 8 p.m. 


Barometer. 


Cabin. 


Deck. 


Water. 


8 A.M. 


8 p.m. 


Aneroid 
Noon. 


o 


o 


o 








66 


52 


51 


29-80 


29-94 


29-95 


66 


51 


50 


29-89 


29-85 


29-90 


66 


51 


50 


29-72 


29-64 


29-70 


66 


49 


49 


29-53 


29-43 


29-50 


59 


53 


52 


29-33 


29 29 


29-34 


64 


55 


55 


29-36 


28-99 


29-30 


69 


57 


56 


29-15 


29-22 


29-05 


70 


57 


54 


29*42 


29-32 


29-35 


58 


56 


53 


29-30 


29-29 


29-35 



D D 4 



APPENDIX. 



SCIENTIFIC AND GENERAL REMABKS. 



The curious observer may, if he chooses, find much pleownt 
einployDient in examining tlie state of the winds and weather, 
KS experienced by the " Prince Albert" on her voyage, and noted 
in the foregoing meteorological journal. The scientific inquirer, 
also, may, possibly, meet with someirhat to interest him. It 
will be seen by on analysis that, in each mouth, we had the 
winds as follows : — 



June. 1 July. 


Augu.1. 


SeptoDber. 


™. 


Southerly - iT' 


Da ,. 


U-j-.. 


I" 


:-r 


Soulh Easterly - 


2 




6 






2 


3 






North Easterly - 


a 


6 




a 


"J 


Korlherly 


1 


4i 


2 


H 


14 




a 


14 


3 


4 


10} 


Westerly - 












ionth Westerly- 3I 






i 




Calms - -I 1 


h 


S| 


10 



We here see that aonlh- easterly winds predominated, and, 
piincipally in the month of September, when we were between 
the pai'allels of 73° and 57° latitude. They were, eeneraUy, 
moderate and light; not blowing two days throughout the 
whole time sufficiently strong to moke it noticeable as such. 
With thcia almost alwa;jB came, after our leaying the vicini^ of 
England, unsettled, tluck weather, fngs, and rain ; the (ogB, 
especially, when we had got into the higher latitudes. 

Xhc wealerlt/ winds were next most prevalent ; predominating 
greatly in the month of June, and rarely blowing otherwise than 
very strong. With them we always eKpcricnced heavy weather, 
rain, and when near the Greenland coast, snow-storms. It was 
e encountered these gales, and, t^n- 

.. js heavy against us. 

It prevalent winds were from the S. W^ thon^ 



SCIENTIFIC AND GENERAL REMARKS. 409 

belonging almost entirely to the month of July. They were, 
therefore, fair for us, when we could make use of them ; our 
passage at that period being principally towards, and among the 
ice. Thick weather, and rain, with moderately strong breezes 
always attended them ; but it was somewhat remarkable that, 
in August and September, the latter especially (it being the 
equinoctial month), we had only 2^ days wmd from that quarter, 
and not even one full day out of that little time belonging to 
September ! 

Northerly, N. Easterly, and N, Westerly winds existed nearly 
an equal number of days, each, throughout the four months, 
the former being most frequent. With one or two exceptions, 
they were generally light and moderate ; alternately fine and 
cloudy weather accompanied them. The exceptions were in 
the lower latitude of our passage across the Northern Ocean. 

Southerly and Easterly winds we had not so much of. They 
blew occasionally light and fresh; with variable weather; 
sometimes very fine, and at other times, unsettled. 

We had only a day and a half calm anywhere, except when 
among ice, especially in Melville Bay ; where, throughout the 
month of August, we were eight and a half days without any 
wind. It did not always bring fine weather ; nor was it a sign 
of the contrary. The nights when calm and fine were remark- 
ably so ; the days being also pleasant, but not so peculiarly 
beautiful. In calms, attended by fogs, we found the ice gene- 
rally more inclined to open and become slack. 

In the ice, the winds were almost always light, in comparison 
to any we experienced elsewhere. During the passage out, 
when we had got half way across the ocean, they were strong 
and foul. In Lancaster Sound, Prince Regent's Inlet, Barrow's 
Straits, &c. I noticed they generally blew right vp or right 
down whatever large opening we were in ; and rarely failing, 
after a breeze one way, to blow quite as strong soon afterwards, 
in the 0})posite direction. We were hove to during our voyage, 
from badness of weather about seventy hours. 

In the month of June we had, of fair winds, 9 days : foul 
winds, 16 days : strong breezes, 10 days : moderate breeze*^ 
5 days : light breezes, 10 days : fogs, 2 days : snow, 2 days : 
sleety 1 day : rain, 9 days : clear weather, 6 days : thick hazy 
weather, 5 days. 

In the month of July we had, of fair winds, 14 days : foul 
winds, 1 7 days : strong breezes, 7 days : moderate, 4 days : 
light, 19 days: fog, 7 days: snow, 2 days: sleet, 1 day: 
rain, 8 days : clear weather, 14 days : thick hazy weather, 9 
days. 



410 APPENDIX. 

In the month of August we had, of fair winds^ 14 days : 

foul winds, 8 days : strong breezes, 2 days : moderate, 5 days : 

light, 15 days: cdms 9 days: fog, 11 days: snow, 2 days: 

sleet, none : rain, 10 days : clear weather^ 18 days : thick hazy 

weather, 7 days. 

In the month of September we had, of fair winds, 14J- days : 

fold winds, 15 J days: strong breezes, 12}^ days: moderate^ 8 

days : lights 9\ days : fog, 6 days : snow, none : sleet, none : 

rain, 1 days : clear weather, 11^ days : thick hazy weather^ 

5 days. 

Summary of the four months : — fair winds, 53^ days, or 
7^ weeks : foid winds, 46i days, or 8 weeks. 

Thus, it is seen, the winds were as often favourable as they 
were adverse. But, as a drawback to any advantage we might 
reap therefrom, a great part of the time they were fair was 
during August, when we were in the ice, and could not avail 
ourselves of them. 

Strong breezes, 31^ days: moderate, 22 days: light, 53^ 
days. The lightest breezes were experienced when we were 
in or about the ice : the strongest off Cape Farewell, Disco^ and 
in Lancaster Sound. 

Fog, 26 days, principally about the ice. It was often so very 
dense that not a ship*s length could be seen ahead. Frequently 
it would hang upon the horizon for hours, while the sun was 
shining brightly above it, and full upon us. 

Snow, 6 days. It fell only when we were in the neighbour- 
hood of, and not actually enclosed by ice. The heaviest fall of 
snow was when we were off Cape York, in Regent's Inlet. 

Sleet, 4 days. We had no hail, and only sleet previous to 
entering the great body of ice. 

Rain, 27 days. From the moment of our first entering the 
ice to that of our finally clearing it, a period of 52 days, we had 
not a drop of rain. The heaviest rain was, in September, when 
we were on the ocean, returning. 

We had 49 J days clear weather ; that is, weather that gave 
us a clear view of the horizon, as well as of the firmament 
above, so as to enable us to take our scientific observations ac- 
curately, and with ease. It was, for the longest period, clearest 
in the ice ; and, at such times, it was remarkably clear. Of 
thick hazy weather, namely, weather that was not exactly fog, or 
rain, or snow, we had 26 days ; and during it we could rarely 
get an observation of the sun. A chance opportunity would 
sometimes present itself; although but seldom. 

Lightning was only seen in the month of September on our 
return ; and then only on two occasions. Thunder was, I be- 
lieve, only heard once during the same month. 



SCIENTIFIC AND GENERAL REMARKS. 411 

The Aurora Borealis was witnessed much less frequently than 
we expected. Three or four times in the lower latitudes, only, 
was it observed : once very brilliant, but the other times, faintly. 

With reference to our thermometers (and we had Jive)^ I 
noticed that the mercury frequently rose to an Easterly and 
Northerly wind without any sensible degree of corresponding 
increase in the temperature : on the contrary, these winds always 
brought colder^ though ^wer weather. 

To the barometers I paid particular attention. On several 
occasions after our getting in the higher latitudes, neither 
the marine nor the aneroid barometer appeared to act with 
their usual uniform regularity. The Aneroid seemed the most 
sensitive, though far from always indicating truly. The sci- 
entific inquirer may find amusement in turning his attention 
to this ; and, by comparing the entries in the meteorological 
table with the account of the ship's position, &c. at the par- 
ticular date in the narrative, be enabled, possibly, to discover 
if there are any, and what, local causes producing this change 
from the customary regularity and sensitiveness of the mer- 
cury. Once or twice, under apparently the same circumstances 
of position, and contiguity to ice, did the marine barometer well 
denote a coming change in the weather ; as, for instance, on the 
10th to the 12th of July, when it gradually fell from 29-62 to 
28-80. But, again, in almost a similar position, on the 18th and 
19th of August, it indicated no change, but remained stationary 
for fair at 30-00, when a heavy gale came on. And almost 
the same, on the 26th of August in another strong breeze. 

The lowest register of the thermometer on deck was 29° at 
10 P.M. on the 2nd of August, at midnight it being 23°, though 
I find I have not entered it. We were then beset in the ice ; 
but I can well believe that, at times, it was much lower, for 
the cold occasionally was felt more strongly than that would 
denote. 

The greatest height of the thermometer on deck after leaving 
the vicinity of England was 61° at 8 p.m. on the 12th of June; 
and during the time we were in the ice its highest register was 
35° at 8 P.M. on the 23rd of July. 

The temperature of the water was occasionally as hiffh as 53° 
in the main ocean, and 34° and 35° in the body of the ice ; and 
it was never lower than 30°. K was often warmer than the 
air, and very rarely much colder. 

There is a peculiarity in the winds, which blow in the Arctic 
Seas which I have no doubt has often struck every previouB 
voyager. It is, that they do not always come with those pre- 
monitory symptoms which forewarn the mariner in other parts 
of the world. For instance, every appearance in the swell oi 



412 APPENDIX. 

the ocean, the wild and fiery skj, the atmospheric pressure, tlie 
indescribable something which tells to a seaman that the winds 
are not asleep, seem to denote the approach of a gale, and jet 
the gale comes not. This was strongly the case with us on the 
15 til of September off Cape Farewell, when, for an entire day 
the sky and ocean presented all the appearance of a perfect 
hurricane sweeping through the air with terrific force. The 
restless motion of the water troubled with two cross seas was 
such on that day, that our vessel was knocked about more than 
at any other period. On another occ&sion we experienced a 
similar inconsistency when proceeding towards Cape FarewelL 
From a fine and gentle day without any of the usual prognosti- 
cations, a gale suddenly and heavily came on, and in a short 
time we were hove to. 

The chief cause assigned for this peculiarity is, I believe, the 
prevalence of local storms, that is, storms occurring at a short 
distance off without approaching the ship, and I should imagine 
this to be the actual case, bearing out the theory of Colonel 
Reid*s " Law of Storms." But I cannot do better than refer 
the reader to a very interesting chapter on the subject in a 
work I have already much quoted, — Dr. Scoresby's " Arctic 
Kcgions," a perusal of which will solve many difficulties on this 
subject. 

Of our CHRONOMETERS it will bc sufficient here to say thai 
%ve had three ; one of French's, No. 975., an eight-day watch, 
and which we made our standard ; one of Carter's, No. 146., 
which was seldom used ; and a pocket watch. No. 825. of Eam- 
shaw's. An elaborately drawn up table of their comparisons 
and rate of movement to which I have paid some attention both 
at sea and since my return, would only serve possibly to per- 
plex the general reader ; and I will, therefore, merely observe, 
that their rates increased considerably, immediately afler our 
getting fairly to sea; and that while we were in the ice the 
two latter were very irregular. 

Our compasses, of which we possessed several, acted better 
than we expected, two of them never once ceasing to traverse 
during the whole time. 

I subjoin a few words respecting the different animals and 
fishes that we encountered in this, our short trip. 

The monster of the seas, the whaler did not appear to be very 
nimierous this year. We saw a few right whales, that is, the 
whale-proper, which is, strictly speaking, the sort most prized 
and sought for by whalers ; and we met, occasionally, another 
and inferior description of whale. A species of white whale 
was observed when we were in Wellington Channel. There 
were about five of them, evidently dams, with their young by 
their side. The cubs, however, were of a blacker colour. 



SCIENTIFIC AND GENERAL REMARKS. 413 

The Narwahl (Monodon monoceros of Linnaeus) was often 
to be seen in the high latitudes. This animal is styled by 
whalers the " sea unicorn," on account of its long tusk, not un- 
like a sword fish. This tusk is sometimes nine or ten feet in 
length. The colour of the narwahls, we observed, was a dirty 
yellow, or approaching to that of straw. They were in great 
numbers in Melville Bay. 

Of the Walrus or sea-horse, I only saw one or two ; at least 
they were pointed out to me as such, but at too great a dis- 
tance for me to observe them accurately. 

SealSf however, were in great numbers, indeed so numerous 
that a vessel of our size might have partly repaid the voyage 
by catching them. 

The Arctic dolphin, the grampus, and porpoise, were also 
seen as usual in great numbers; and, besides the cod fish I 
have alluded to in the narrative, several other curious species 
were observed. I had no time, however, then, to turn my at- 
tention to them. 

Of the Polar bear I have already spoken. We fell in with 
only three, and these were on the ice. The Americans, how- 
ever, were more lucky, having killed two, and chased three or 
four others. 

We saw nothing of the Arctic fox, nor the reindeer. The 
eider duck and Arctic goose, the former especially, were in 
great numbers, particularly in Lancaster Sound. Of the little 
auk or roach, and the doveca, I have already spoken. 

The fulmar or mollemucke, so called, with the sea swallow, 
the kittywake (Larus rissa)y the Arctic gull (Larus parasiticus), 
the Burgomaster (Larus glaucus), and the beautiful snow bun- 
ting (^Emberiza nivalis') were also seen, and all but the two 
latter in great numbers. Another description of bird we also 
observed to be very numerous. It ran along the water in a 
slatternly manner as though it coidd not rise in the air until it 
had attained some distance. The men called it by the same 
name as the doveca, though I imagine the two to be of different 
species. 

The Geology of the Arctic regions possesses peculiar inte- 
rest. I could, willingly, have devoted weeks to forming an 
acquaintance with it ; but the short time, only, that I had any 
opportunity for examination, prevented my doing aught but 
collect a few rock specimens. But I am convinced it would 
amply repay any one, who could do so, to take a yacht cruise 
to Prince Regent's Inlet, or as far in that direction as the 
ice might permit. In the neighbourhood of Port Leopold, 
and thence towards Fury Beach, the rocks rise to a tremen- 
dous height in successive terraces, and presenting all the ap- 



414 APPENDIX. 

pearance of a connected scries of ancient feudal castles, of the 
Gothic style of architecture. This is particularly the case about 
Cape Seppings, where, as I passed it on the night search, I 
could not help being carried in fancy to the banks of the 
Rhine about Stolzenfels and neighbourhood ; and the erandeor 
and beauty of finish displayed in these wild and sterue works 
of nature could not, I am sure, be anywhere surpassed. 

]VIoreover, independent of the geological features of the Arctic 
Regions, there is much in their Geography to attract interest 
and curiosity. Tlie western shores of Davis's Straits, hitherto 
supposed to be the sea-coast of large tracts of land, are in all 
probability but the eastern boundaries of islands hiding behind 
them vast sheets of water, in which might be found the whale 
and seal, and animals valued for their furs. "Who that has 
seen Pond's Bay, as we saw it, can doubt there is some large 
body of water beyond the two headlands which bounded our 
view to the westward ? Look at Home Bay, Clyde Inlet, 
Hogarth Inlet, the channels north of Hudson Bay, Admiralty 
and I^avy Board Inlets too. What a field for discovery and 
research do they not one and all present. Then, again, though 
it is not British ground, look at the Woman Islands, where, 
I believe. Sir James Ross sailed for a hundred miles in the 
deep channels which run between them. But, further on, where 
would Smith's Sound carry the bold adventurer ? What new 
and wonderful discovery would be effected by a determined 
search in that quarter ? Greenland : what is it ? A mass of 
islands, or a continent itself? Whence come those enormous 
glaciers, of miles and miles in extent, that cover the lofty 
mountains supposed to be the coast line of northern Greenland? 
and that have buried, as the tradition goes, ancient settlements 
in their frightful course, as with avalanche speed they rushed 
onward to the sea from some unknown and mysterious place 
far inland ? Well, indeed, may the mind become awe-struck^ 
and the heart almost cease to beat, as the lips exclaim " Won- 
derful art Thou in all Thy works ! Heaven and earth are full 
of the ^lajesty of Thy glory !" on beholding these mighty and 
surprising works of the Great Creator. East and west> and 
north and south, the Arctic regions present a picture of gran- 
deur and magnificence, nowhere to be excelled ; great beyond 
conception ; nnpossible to be truly pourtrayed. Here, man 
sinks into his own littleness in comparison ; here, even the 
infidel must acknowledge the one great and sole cause, — God I 
Jehovah ! Lord ! Here, the most impious must, perforce, bend 
in silent adoration ! 

With reference to the existence of inland seas on the western 
side of Davis's Straits, I may observe that, exclusive of the jws- 



SCIENTIFIC AND GENERAL REMARKS. 415 

sibility of there being such, judging from the formation of the 
numerous inlets and bays on the coast, I believe one or two 
whaling ships have found it to be the case. I was told of a 
whaler passmg through, I believe, Home Bay, and getting into 
a large body of water, from which the captain, after proceeding 
onwards to some distance, found a difficulty in making his way 
out again. He had lost his reckoning * ; could not tell how far 
he had gone found himself involved among bergs, and in an 
unknown and wild-looking place ; and got, at last, so dis- 
turbed in his mind as hardly to be able to direct the movements 
of the ship ; which, ultimately, after much labour, got clear into 
Davis's Straits again. The affair, my informant said, was never 
publicly mentioned, because no explanatory account could be 
given of where they had gone to, or what they had done. 

But, if this be true, what a discovery might not be effected 
by a proper vessel employed especially for that purpose. I 
have always thought and still think a passage from Home Bay 
to the Gulf of Boothia exists, and might in a favourable season 
be effected. 

If, unhappily, the fate of Sir John Franklin and his com- 
panions should not be determined before next spring, I do most 
sincerely hope the attempt will be renewed in some shape or 
other to search the part we were intended to explore. But 
the best, and in my humble opinion the speediest way to do 
this would be by a small vessel, accompanied by all the ap- 
purtenances of a land expedition, attempting in the first place 
a passage by Hudson Strait, Frobisher Strait, Cumberland 
Strait, or Home Bay, as occasion might be presented; and 
then, if failing in the one, to try the other passages still further 
north ; ultimately, proceeding by the usual route through Lan- 
caster Sound, if no other course was found available. 

That renewed efforts should be made next spring, or as early 
as possible in the year, to examine the localities about and 
leading from the Magnetic Pole I am clearly of opinion, for 
while there is doubt there is hope ; and I am one of those who 
yet think there is enough of the latter to warrant every effort 
being made to realise it. That it may be realised, and speed- 
ily ; and that the brave fellows with their gallant leader, who 
have now been so long missing, may be soon restored to the 
loved oountry that gave them birth, and to the home and de- 
voted friends at present mourning for them, is a wish which to 
see accomplished I would willingly risk my life, and for which 
I, in common with hundreds, unceasingly pray. 

* Whalers, when fishing, are not very particular as to their 
observations. 



416 



APPENDIX. 



LIST OF THE CREW 



OP THE PRINCE ALBERT DISCOVERT SHIP. 



CHARLES CODBINQTOM FOBSTTH, B. 


N. 


, COMMANDEB. 


Name. 




Age. 


PJyp 
Moni 


er 

,h. 

d. 


Character. 






Years 


£ $. 




William Kay . 
William Wilson 


Chief Mate 


53 


9 







Second do. 


37 


7 





Hardy and fearless. 


Charles Rao - 


Boatswain 


37 


4 10 





Very good, and capable. 


Peter Mitchell - 


Carpenter 


52 


5 





Good, steady man, 


John Smith 


Steward 


28 


4 





Honest and trustworthy. 


James Glennie - 


Cook 


45 


5 





Good & clean. A: a sea. 


Robert Brown - 


Seaman 


48 


4 





Good, steady man. [man. 


James Watt 


. 


35 


4 





Good, but rather timid. 


A. M'Cullum - 


. 


47 


4 





Good and steady. 


William Dugtiid* 


. 


31 


4 





Do. do., and intelligent. 


Alexander Anderson - 


m m 


23 


4 





Hardworking and good. 


James Fox 


m s 


2G 


3 9 





Sick ; discharged into H. 
M.S. *' Resolute.** 


George Massie - 


. 


34 


3 9 





Very good, and steady. 


Robert Grate* 


. 


24 


3 9 





Do., da, and intelligent. 


Henry Anderson • 


. 


26 


3 9 





Do., do. 


Alexander Matliieson > 


- 


29 


3 9 





Bold, fearless, and good* 




William R 


kRKER 


Snow, 





* These three men understood navigation. The last fire of the seamen had not 
been so much experienced as the others in the ice, and, consequently, had less pay. 



THE END. 



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NEW WORKS 

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2« 
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Seaward'sNarrativeof his Shipwreck - 27 

Sir Roger De CoTcrlev - • - 28 

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The Horse - - - 



»» 



»» 



» > 



>> 



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29 
17 
17 
17 
17 
17 
17 
17 
17 
17 
17 
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32 
32 
32 
32 



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Sinclair's Sir Edward Graham • 

Sir Roger de Coverley 

Southey's Doctor, etc. 

Twelve Years Ago : a Tale 



lea 



10 
10 
12 
32 

is 

20 
21 
21 
21 
21 
27 
38 
29 
31 



ONE VOLUME ENCYCLOP>CDIA8 
AND DICTIONARIES. 

Blaine's, of Rural Sports .... 6 

Brande's, of Science, Literature, and Art 7 

Copland's, of Medicine .... 8 

Cresy's, of Civil Kngiueering • - - 9 

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Johnson's Farmer ----- 16 

Johnston's Geographical Dictionary - IB 
Londnn's,of Trees and Shrubs '• ^19 

,, of Gardening . . ;^ . 19 



Pages 

London 8,of Agricolrare • - - • 19 

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,, of Rural Architecture . - 19 

M'CuUoch's Geographical Dictionary • 20 

,, Dictionary of Commerce . 20 

Murray's Bncyclopaediaof Geography > 23 

Ure's Arts, Manufactures, and Mines > 31 

Webster's Domestic Economy - .32 



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Flowers and their Kindred Thoughts - 24 

Fruits from the Garden and Field • - 24 

Goldsmith's Poems, illustrated - .11 

Gray's Elegy, illuminated > . . 24 

Hey's Moral of Flowers - - - - 13 

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Kent's Aletheia - - ... 16 

L.E.L.'s Poetical Works - - . 16 

Linwood's Anthologia Oxoniensis . -IS 

Macaulay's Lays of Ancient Rome . .20 

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Swain's English Melodies ... 30 

Taylor's Vi^n Widow .... 30 

Thomson's Seasons, illustrated • .90 

„ with Notes, by Dr. A. T. Thomson 30 



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10 



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MRS. HEY.-SYLVAN MUSINGS: 

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HINTS ON ETIQUETTE AND THE USAGES OF SOCIETY: 

With a Glance at Bad Habits. By AyeoyOf. *• Manners make the Man." NewEdition, 
rerised (with additions) by a Ladyof Rank. Foolscap 8to.2s. 6d. cloth. 

HOARE— A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

GRAPE VINE ON OPEN WALLS. By Clement Huare. NewEdition. 8vo.7«.6if. cloth. 
HOARE.— A DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT OF A NEW METHOD OF 

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HOOK (DR. W. F.)-THE LAST DAYS OF OUR LORD'S MINISTRY; 

A Course uf Lectures on the principal Events of Passion Week. By Walter Farquhar Hook, 
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HOOKER.— KEW GARDENS ; 

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HOOKER AND ARNOTT.— THE BRITISH FLORA; 

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HORNE (THE REV. T. H.)— AN INTRODUCTION TO THE CRITICAL 

STUDY AND KNOWLEDGE OF THE HOLY SCRIPTURES. By the Rev. Thomas 
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HORNE (THE REV. T. H.)— A COMPENDIOUS INTRODUCTION TO THE 

STUDY OF THE BIBLE. Rj the Rev.Thomas Hartwell Home, B.D.of St. John's College, 
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HOWITT.— THE CHILDREN'S YEAR. 

By Mary Howitt. With Four Illustrations, engraved by John Absolon, from Original 
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14 NEW WORKS AND NEW EDITIONS 



IIOWIIT.— THE BOY'S COUNTRY BOOK; 

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HOWITT— VISITS TO REMARKABLE PLACES; 

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SECOND SERIES, chiefly in the Counties of DURHAM and NORTHUMBBRLABTD, with a 
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IIOWITT.— THE RURAL LIFE OF ENGLAND. 

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HOWITT.— THE RURAL AND DOMESTIC LIFE OF GERMANY: 

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HO W80N.— SUNDAY EVENING: 

Twelve Short Sermons for Family Reading. 1. The Presence of Christ; S. Inraid and 
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6. The Duty of Amiability; 7. Honesty and Candour; 8. St. Peter and CoraeUnsi ft. A* 
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HOWSON AND CON YBE ARE.— THE LIFE AND EPISTLES OF ST. 

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HUDSON.— THE EXECUTOR'S GUIDE. 

ByJ.C. Hudson, Esq.,lateof the Legacy DutyOffice,London;anthor of **Plaln DlrMtiou 
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HUDSON.-PLAIN DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING WILLS 

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*•* The above two»ork$majf be kadin One volmmef price 7'«c'ofA. 

HUMBOLDT.— ASPECTS OF NATURE, 

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BARON HUMBOLDT'S COSMOS; 

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HUMPHREYS.— A RECORD OF THE BLACK PRINCE; 

Being a Selection of such Passages in his lAte as have been most aualntly and atrlMagfy 
narrated by the Chroniclers of the Period. Embellished with highlT-wronght MUotorea 
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HUMPHREYS.— THE BOOK OF RUTH. 

From the Holy Scriptures. Embellished with brilliant coloured Border*, lelected froa 
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HUMPHREYS.-IVIAXIIVIS AND PRECEPTS OF THE1 SAVIOUR: 

Beiog a Selection of the most beaatifol ChrittUn Preceptt contained in the Four Gospels; 
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HUMPHREYS.— THE MIRACLES OF OUR SAVIOUR. 

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HUMPHREYS.— PARABLES OF OUR LORD. 

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HUNT.— RESEARCHES ON LIGHT: 

An Examination of all the Phenomena connected Mrith the Chemical and Molecular Changes 
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JAMESON (MRS.)— LEGENDS OF THE MONASTIC ORDERS: 

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JAMESON (MRS.)— SACRED AND LEGENDARY ART. 

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National Gallery^ Mrt. Jameion't ettay wilt be interesting, for it will give tiem a vatt 
Quantity of information they did not posteti before, and which will add inealenlably to the 
pleature with which they will inipect the picturet of the Old Matters— often perfectly unin- 
telligible without tueh an explanation of them as is here given."— Critic. 

JEBB.-A LITERAL TRANSLATION OF THE BOOK OF PSALMS; 

Intended to illustrate their Poetical and Moral Structure. To which are added. Disserta- 
tions on the word •'Selah,"and on the Authorship, Order, Titles, and Poetical Features 
of the Psalms. By the Rev. John Jebb, A.M., Rector of Peterstow. 3 vols. 8vo. 2l«. cloth. 

JEFFREY (LORD).-CONTRIBUTIONSTOTHE EDINBURGH REVIEW. 

By FrancisJeffrey,lateoneofthe Judges in the Court of Session In Scotland. 3d Edition. 
3 vols . 8vo. 42« . cloth . 

BISHOP JEREMY TAYLOR'S ENTIRE WORKS : 

With the Life of Bishop Heber. Revised and corrected by the Rev. Charles Page Eden, 
Fellow of Oriel College, Oxford. Vols. II. III. IV. V. VI. and VII. 8vo. lQs.6d. each, cloth. 

•«• In course of publication in 10 volt, price half-a-guinea each. Vol. I. (the last in order 
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' ^ [ Vol. Fill, it in the press. 

J0HN80N.-THE WISDOM OF THE RAMBLER, ADVENTURER, AND 
IDLER. Comprising a Selection of 110 of the best Essays. By Samuel Johnson, LL.D. 
Foolscap 8vo. It. cloth. 



H === 

10 NEW WORKS AND NEW EDITIONS 



JOHNSON.-THE FARMER'S ENCYCLOPEDIA, 

And DICTIONARY of RURAL AFFAIRS t embracing all the recent Dlscoveriei la Afri- 
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JOHNSTON.— A NEW DICTIONARY OF GEOGRAPHY, 

DescriptWe, PhTSidal, StatUtical, and HUtorlcali forming a conplete General Gaaetteer 
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SIR ROBERT KANE.— ELEMENTS OF CHEMISTRY, 

Theoretical and Practical; incinding the most Recent Dismrerles and Applieatlnna of the 
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KAY.— THE SOCIAL CONDITION AND EDUCATION OF THE PEOPLE 

IN ENGLAND AND EUROPE: shewing the results of the Primarr Schools and of the 
Dirision of Landed Propertv in Foreign Countries. By Joseph Kay, Esq. M.A., of Trinity 

I College. Cambridge; Barrfster-at-Law ; and late TraTelling Bachelor of the Unlvcrrity <H 

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KEM6LE.— THE SAXONS IN ENGLAND: 

A History of the English Commonwealth till the period of the Norman ConqneBt. ^ Joha 
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KENT.— ALETHEIA ; 

Or, the Doom of Mythology. With other Poems. By William Charles Kebt. fcap.Svo. 
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KINDERSLEY.^THE VERY JOYOUS, PLEASANT, AND REFRESHING 

HISTORY of the Feats, Exploits, Triumphs, and Achievements of the Good Knl||kt, without 
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THE REV. DR. W. I. KIP.— THE EARLY CONFLICTS OF CHRISTIANITY. 

Contents.— 1. Judaism, 2. Grecian Philosophy; 3. The Licentious Spirit of the Aaei 4. 
Barbarism ; 6. The Pagan Mythology. By the Rev. Dr. W. Ingraham Kip, 1I.A., Mtther of 
'* The Christmas Holydays in Rome." Foolscap 8vo. 6f. cloth. 

THE REV. DR. W. I. KIP.-THE CHRISTMAS HOLYDAYS IN ROME. 

By the Rev. W. Ingraham Kip, D.D. Edited by the Rev. W. Sewell, B.D. Kellov ead 
Tutor of Exeter College, Oxford. New Edition. Foolscap 8vo. S». clotn. 

KIR6Y AND SPENCE.— AN INTRODUCTION TO ENTOMOLOGY: 

Or, Elements of the Natural History of Insects: comprising an aecoant of wnKkma and 
useful Insects, of their Metamorphoses, Food, Stratagems, Habitations, Soeietlce.llotlou, 
Noises, Hybernation, Instinct, etc. By W. Kirby, M.A. FJl.S. ft L.S. Rector of Baihmi 
and W. Spence, Esq.,F.R.S. ft L.S. New Edition, enlarged. Svols. Sto.Slt.M.elotk. 

L. E. L.— THE POETICAL WORKS OF LETITIA ELIZABETH LANDON s 

Comprising the IMPROVISATRICE, the VENETIAN BRACELET, tke GOLDKIf 
VIOLET, the TROUBADOUR, and other Poetical Remains. New Edition, vidfora wlA 
Moore's '* Songs, Ballads, and Sacred Songs ; " with 2 Vignettes by Richard Doyle. 1 ToU. 
16mo. 10«. clotn; morocco, 2U. 

*,* jiho an edition in 4 volt, fooheap Svo. uith Illustrations bg Howard, etc. tflto. efef.lf 
or bound in morocco f with gilt edges, 2/. 4s. 

LAING.— OBSERVATIONS ON THE SOCIAL AND POLITICAL STATE 

OF THE EUROPEAN PEOPLE IN 1848 AND 1849: being the Second Series of ••NoWa 
of a Traveller.'' By Samuel Laing, Esq., author of *' A Journal of aResMence In Nonrw*'* 
'* A Tour in Sweden," the Translation of <« The Heimskringla,*' and of ** Notes of aTn- 
veller on the Social and Political State of France, Prussia," etc. Svo. 14a. rloth. 

LANDOR.— THE FOUNTAIN OF ARETHUSA. 

By Robert Eyres Landor, M.A., author of *<The Fawn of Sertoriovs,*^ **The laplow 
Feast," Tragedies, etc. 2 vols, post Svo. 18«. cloth. 



311- 



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BiII'i HIIUUT D' Bnf lud, 11 






18 NEW WORKS AND NEW EDITIONS 



LATHAM.— ON DISEASES OF THE HEART. 

Lecture! on Subjects connected with Clinical Medicine ; compriiioff Disemsei of the Heart. 
By P. M. Latham, M.O. Physician Extraordinary to the Qneeui and latt Physldui to St. 
Bartholomew's Hospital. Mew Edition. S toIs. 12mo. 16*. cloth. 

LEE.-TAXIDERMY; 

Or, the Art of Collectina:, Preparing, and MountingObjectsof NatnralHIstorj. Forthe mM 
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Visit to Walton Hall, and Mr. Waterton's Method of Preserving Animals. Fcap. Svo.wlth 
Woodcuts, 7«« 

LEE.-ELEMENTS OF NATURAL HISTORY; OR, FIRST PRINCIPLES 

OF ZOOLOGY. Forthe Use of Schools and Young Persons: comprisingthe Principles of 
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Animals. By Mrs. R.Lee. New Edition, revised and enlaced; with nnmeroua additional 
Woodcuts. Foolsci^ 8vo. 7<. M. cloth. 

LESLIE (C.R.)— MEMOIRS OF THE LIFE OF JOHN CONSTABLE, ESQ. 

R. A. Composed chiefly of his Letters. By C. R. Leslie, R. A. Second EdiUon, with farther 
Extracts from his Correspondence, two Portraits (one from a new Sketch, by Mr. LeaUa), 
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LETTERS ON HAPPINESS, 

Addressed to a Friend. By the Authoress of '* Letters to My Unknown Friends," « Twelve 
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8vo. 6t. doth. 

LETTERS TO MY UNKNOWN FRIENDS. 

By a Lady. Third Edition. Foolscap 8vo. 6f. cloth. 

LINDLEY.—AN INTRODUCTION TO BOTANY. 

By Prof. J. Undley, Pb.U.,F.R.S. L.S. etc. New Edition, with Corrections and nuumms 
Additions. 2 vols. 8vo. with Sis Plates and numerous Woodcuts,34f . cloth. 

LINDLEY.— A SYNOPSIS OF THE BRITISH FLORA, 

Arranged according to the Natural Orders. By Professor John LIndley, Ph. D., F.B J.»etc. 
New Edition, with numerous Additions and Improvements. 12mo. 10«. M.cMth. 

LINDLEY.— THE THEORY OF HORTICULTURE ; 

Or, an Attempt to Explain the Principal Operations of Gardening upon Phystolofleal Pria- 
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LINWOOD (W.)— ANTHOLOCIA OXONIENSIS ; 

Sive, Florilegium e lusibus poeticis diversorum Ozoniensinm Grsecte et LatlBladtctrwtaa. 
Curante Gulielmo Linwood, M.A. iEdis Christi Alummo. 8vo.I4«. doth. 

LORIMER.— LETTERS TO A YOUNC MASTER MARINER 

On some Subjects connected with his Calling. By the late Charles Lotrtaser. A N«w Ul- 
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LOUDON.—THE AMATEUR GARDENER'S CALENDAR; 

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out and planting Kitchen and Flower Gardens, Pleasure Grounds, and Shmbberleai and • 
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LOUDON.—THE LADY'S COUNTRY COMPANION: 

Or, How to Enjoy a Country Life Rationally. By Mrs. Loudon, author of * 'Gardealorfer 
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LOUDON'S SELF.INSTRUCTION FOR YOUNC GARDENERS, 

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With a Portrait of Mr.Loudon, and aMemoir by Mrs.Loudon. SrcwithWoodKBgraflBgi | 
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LOUDON'S ENCYCLOP>EDIA OF TREES AND SHRUBS; 

Beine the '< Arboretum etFruticetum Brltannicum" abridged : containing the Hardj Treei 
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LOUDON'S ENCYCLOP>CDiA OF GARDENING: 

Comprising the Theory and Practice of Horticulture, Floriculture, Arboricultare, and 
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Futiire Progress in the British Isles. By J. C. Loudon, F.L.S. H.S., etc. Illustrated with 
many hundred Engravings on Wood by Branston- An entirely New Kdition (1860), cor- 
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50«. cloth. 

*«* TKe pre$ent New Edition U alio in eoune of publication in Ten Monthly PartSf friee 5$. 
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LOUDON'S ENCYCLOP>CDlA OF AGRICULTURE; 

Comprising the Theory and Practice of the Valuation, Transfer. Laying-out, Improvement, 
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VegeUble Productions of Agriculture, including all the latest improvements. Fifth 
Edition. 8vo. with upwards of 1,100 Engraving! on Wood , by Branston, 2/. lOf . cloth. 

LOUDON'S ENCYCLOP>EDIA OF PLANTS; 

Including all the Plants which are now found in, or havebeenintroducedinto,Great Briton; 

E'lving their Natural History, accompanied by such Descriptions, Engraved Figures, and 
lementary Details, as may enable a beginner, who is a mere English reader, to discover the 
name of every Plant which be may find In flower, and acquire all the information respecting 
it which is useful and interesting. By J. C. Loudon,F.L.8., etc. The Specific Characters 
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newSupplementandanewIndex. 8vo. with nearly 10,000 Wood Engravings, 73«.8«. cloth. 

LOUDON'S ENCYCLOP>CDIA OF COTTAGE, FARM, AND VILLA 
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Fittings-op, Fixtures, and fiimiture, and appropriate Offices, Gardens, and Garden Scenenr : 
each Design accompanied by Analytical and Critical Remarks. By J. C. Loudon, FX.8. 
etc. New Edition, Edited by Mrs. Loudon. 8vo. with more than 2,000 Engravingson Wood, 
63«. cloth. * 

LOUDON'S HORTUS BRITANNiCUS; 

Or, Catalogue of ail the Plants indigenous to or introduced into Briuln. An entirely New 
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and W. H. Baxter, Esq. 8vo. {Nearly ready. 

LOUDON'S HORTUS LICNOSUS LONDINENSIS; 

Or, a Catalo8[ue of all the Lirneous Plants cultivated in tneneighbourhood of London. To 
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LOW.— ON LANDED PROPERTY, AND THE ECONOMY OF ESTATES: 

Comprehending the Relations between Landlord and Tenant, and the Principles andT<^nni 
of Leases; of Farm Buildings, Enclosures, Drains, Embankments, Roads, and other Rural 
Works, Minerals, and Woods. By David Low, Esq. F.R.S.E. etc., author of **BlemenU 
of Practical Agriculture," etc. 8vo. with numerous Wood Engravingi,21f. cloth. 

L0W.~ON THE DOMESTICATED ANIMALS OF GREAT BRITAIN, 

Comprehending the Natural and Economical History of the Species and Breeds; Illustrations 
of the Properties of External Form ; and Observations on the Principles and Practice of 
Breeding. By David Low, Esq., F.R.S.E., Professor of Agriculture in the University of 
Edinburgh, etc.; author of ** Elements of Practical Agricnltore,"etc. Sro.wIthSngravingi 
onWooa,25«. cloth. 

LOW.-CLEMENTS OF PRACTICAL AGRICULTURE; 

Comprehending the Cultivation of Plants, the Husbandry of the DomesticAnimals, and the 
Economy of the Farm. By David Low, Esq. F.R.S.B., Professor of Agriculture in the Uni- 
versity of Edinburgh. New Edition. 8vo. with an entirely new set of above 200 Wood- 
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thoroughly revised by the authort and thereby rendered in many respects a new work. Tk9 
engravings alio were greatly improved. Both worhs are the most complete tremtisn im tkt 
language on the History, Structure, Diseases, and Management of the Animals ofwkidk tkt§ 
treat. 

ZUMPT— A GRAMMAR OF THE LATIN LANGUAGE. 

By C. 6. Zumpt, Ph. D. Professor in the University, and Member of the Royal Acadcavr of 
Berlin. Translated from the 9th Edition of the original, and adapted to the use of BagHail 
Students, by Leonhard Schmitz, Ph. D., Rector of the Hijgh Scnool of Edinburgh | wllli 
numerous Additions and Corrections by the Author. New Edition. 8vo. 14(.elott. 

tJUMlO, 



London: Printed by M. MA80N,lIvy Lane, Paternoster Row. 



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